Letters On Egypt Vol.1

L E ■£: ~ryf m.r .15.. o,

6 N

E G Y P T

' CJFTAIK.KO,

A Parallel between the Manners of its ancient
and modern Inhabitants, its. Commerce,
Agriculture, Government and Religion ;

WITH

The Dcfccnt of Louis IX. at Damietta.

. EXTRACTED FROM

yOIJfyiLLE^,^,m'jJt4Sl^ AUTHORS.

i

TRANSLATED

From the F r e n c h of M. S AY A R Y,

IN TWO VOLUMES;

SECOND EDITION.

••

VOL. I.

LONDON:

-TRtNTBD FOR G. C. J. AND J. ROBINSJOV,
PAT'SR-MOSTA^R »R O V.

MoccLxxxrir*

TRANSLATOR’S PREFACE,

^T^H£ great attention and labour bellowed
upon the prelent tranilation of thefe
Letters, and the remarks which in the courie
of it have prelented thesifciltres, feem to ta^
quire the following ihort account of wW
has been done.

Finding, on confulting a few of the quo-
tations in the French, various errors had
crept into the text, moft of which, pro-
bably, and many, certainly, were errors of
the prefs, it was thought neceffary to refer
to the original authors : thofe, therefore,
who lhall think proper to compare the tranf-
lation with the French, will find many de-
viations in the quoted pafiages; but, if they
ftiall plcafc, further, to refer to the Latin,
Greek, and Arabic writers, cited, it is pre-r *
fumed, they will find fuch deviations are
not errors, but corredions. We mean not
to affirm mifiakes may not ftill exift ; tl/ough
we fcarcely ‘ can hope fufficient credit will
Vot. I. A b#

ii ator’s preface.

be given for the labour bellowed in fearch-
ing voluminous books to find a fingle quo-
tation. I'he induflry with which M. Savary

has read the ancients^ to obtain information
%

cn his fubjedl, adonifhes the reader ; but it
were to be wifhed, by thofe who are inclined
to refer, and examine the accuracy or fpirit
of the p^iTages cited, he had continually
noted his editions, books, and pares ; fo
Abat they might have been turned to with-
olil trouble. Not aware, ourfelves, of the
numerous quotations which were to follow
in the fccond volume, we negleded this
method, in the firfl, and continued fo to do,
partly for the fake of uniformity, and, part-
ly, in deference to M. Savary 5 neither indeed
could we obtain every author, or find every
paflage he has cited i therefore it was, in part,
impra(Sicable.

Were we to note our deviations, and
fupport them by citing the paflages in
queflion, our preface would afiume the form
band length of a diflertation ; we fhall only
fay, therefore, we reft our juftification on
the pafTages themfelves j and, imagining we
■lhal\ not, often, at leaft, be dete^ed in hav-
ing

TRAMSLATbK’s preface. iii

ing injured the author by our emendations,
we truft we fhall rather deferve applaufe than
cenfure.

The fpelling of words tranflated from lan-
guages little known, as the Coptic and
Arabic are, into French, and thence re-tranf-
lated into Englilh, is a difficulty frequently
found very embarraffing ; nor is -the French
itfell' in this work^ always confident. T|iis
we muft plead in excule for thofe few es
where we have committed the like fault.
The French fpelling ufually endeavours at the
original pronunciation $ to give which, in
Englilh, the fpelling fhould be very different.
In fome few places this has occafioned us to
vary from the original ; but, in moft, we
have not dared, left we fhould feem to dif-
hgure names which the eye has been ac-
cuftomed to fee written in another manner.
Thus the words Cacbefy Eccber^, are, as
we fuppofe, pronounced Cajhefi and Ekjherifi
Boulac is Boolac ; Gibel is yeebel ; Malaoui is
Malawee, &c. The village of Seniennoud
is, by an error of the French, not detected in
time, fpelt Samanout, on the map : We be-
lieve no other error of this kind is com/hitted,

A 2 except

iv translator’s PREPACR.

except fo trifling as to be immediately feen,
and corredted, by an intelligent reader.

Our calculation of the weight of the gra-
nite, in the note, Vol. II. page 375, differs
from that of M. Savary 5 but if, inflead of al-
lowing with him the fides to be fixty feet high,
flx feet are dedudlcd for the thicknefs of the
ceiling, which was of another Hone, the pro-
du^ then will be nearly the fame ; and this de-
du4^:)n, we imagine, the author made, it is
not Co exprefled.

Ancient meafures are frequently reduced to
French, by M. Savary; but, as the learned
do not all agree in their eflimates, we have
generally fubflituted a literal tranflation of
the Greek and Latin writers quoted ; and, in
fuch places, ufed the (ladium inflead of the
league.

The words Ox and Bull, Besuf and ‘Taureau,
feem to have been ufed with a blameable in-
diferimination, both by French and Englifli
writers, when Ipeaking of ancient Egyptian
deities. Apis is called the facred Ox, by
M. Savary, but it is evident this god was a
Bull : •he had a heifer prefented him once a
year, and the flrange pradticeof the Egyptian
women, related by Diodorus Siculus (lib. i.

fee.

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. V

fee. 2)» and noticed by M. Savary, is a far-
ther confirmation. Mnevis and Onuphis
are ipoken of in the fame confufed manner,
though there can be little doubt they all were
bulls.

We have been obliged to ufe the word port
in the fame fenfe with M. Savary ; and ap-
ply it to towns, and villages, fitiiated on the
Nile, to which boats only, not fhips, ref^t :
though, in Englifh, it ufually implieiTTea-
port. We have likewife adopted his fpelling
of the word Khalig; but the Arabic pro-
nunciation is Khalidge. We mean not to
be minute, but wifh not, after all our in-
duftry, to be thought negligent.

The gentleman to whom M. Savary ad-
drefied his letters was M. Le Monnier, Phy-
fician to the King of France; firfl phyfi-r
cian to Monfieur, his Majefiy*s eldefl bro-
ther, and a member of the Academy of Sci-
ences ; the M. L. M. at the . beginning of
each Letter are the initials of his name, and
the (hort eulogium at the . conclufion of the
work is highly to his honour: it ihews to
what noble purpofes he employs wealth and
power.

A 3 The

▼i translator’s preface.

The work, in the French, is dedicated to
Moniieur, eldeft brother to the King of
France; but we have omitted this dedica-
tion, becaufe the mode of addrefs is fo dif-
ferent from any the Englifli language is ac-
cuftomed to that it would render a tran-
ilation either ridiculous or full of Gallicifms.

The manner in which thefe letters have
been received, both in France and England,
is fufS^irrior to any praife we can beftow ; and
we (hall only fay M. Savary poiTedes a degree
of erudition, judgment, imagination and
feeling which are feldom united.

P R E-

( vu )

PREFACE.

RAVELS are the moft inftrudtive
^ fchool of man : travelling teac^) us
the knowledge of our fpecies } and, by living
among different nations, ffudying their man-
ners, religion, and government, rules may
be obtained to eftimate the manners, religion,
and government of our own country. Sub-
jedt to the prejudices of education, and the
empire of habit, while man remains in his
native land, he will view other nations
through a deceptive glafs, which, changing
their forms and colours, will lead his judg-
ment affray ; he will be aftonifhed at their
errors, when he himfelf (hall' be tributary
to others equally great ; he will laugh at and
ridicule their cuftoms, himielf a Have to ab-
furdities not lefs extravagant.

But, having attentively examined the man-
ners and genius of divers people, and calcu-
lated

vii PREFACE.

lated how far education, laws, and climate
may influence phyflcal and moral qualities,
his ideas will expand, and meditation will
releafe him from the yoke of pre-conceived
opinions, and cufloms by which his reafon
had been enchained. Then, looking to-
ward his own country, the fllm will be
removed from his eyes; his rooted miflakes
w'ill be eradicated, and objej^s will aflTume a
very ^^^erent afpec^.

Before he begins his travels, a thorough
knowledge of geography and hiflory are
neceflary. The Aril will indicate the place
where great events have paiTed; the latter
bring them to memory ; thus doubly
enlightened, if he traverfes thole eaflern
countries where mofl aflonifliing revolutions
have, more than once, changed the face of
the earth, wherever his footfteps lead, each
objedt will become animated ; ruins, mar-
bles, and mountains will fpeak, moll elo-
quently, to his underllanding and his heart.
Here, beneath brambles, he will read tho
following infeription, with which 'his coun-
try honoured the manes of a hero : 5/^,

viator y *beroem calcas. This cliff, hanging
over the abyls of feas, will call to mind the

fatal

PREFACE.

ix

fatal end of the deipairing Sappho, who,
by the energy and fublimity of her poetry,
merited the name of the tenth mufe. Here
the melancholy remains of two famous re-
publics will retrace to memory man enno-
bled by the love of liberty, his Ibul aggran-
dized, and every faculty of the body and
mind perfedioned. How numerous will be
his companions between what was and prhat
is ! How immenfe the chain of recollt^on !
He, however, will only notice great actions,
and prefent the reader with rapid ilrokes,
where the paft and prefent may clearly unite,
and touch without being confounded.

At beholding the magnificent monuments
Egypt Aill pofieiles, he will imagine what
that people muil have been whole works
only, of all ancient nations, have refilled
the ravages of time : a people who leemed
to labour for immortality, and among whom
Orpheus, Homer, Herodotus, and Plato
went to obtain that knowledge with which
they enriched their native land. How will
he regret that no efforts of the learned
have hitherto removed the veil from the
numerous hieroglyphics of thefe wealthy re-
gions ; the intelligence of which characters

would

P R E F A C E .-

vrould enlighten ancient hiftory, and, per-^
haps, call a luminous ray into the darknefs
of the firft ages of the earth 1

Become a citizen of the world, he will
rife fuperior to partiality, and, while de-
icribing cities and countries, will give to
truth the guidance of his pen. But let him
fhun the fault of many other travellers,
and not make himfelf the principal figure
in 1^ picture, nor throw all the light on
himfelf, and fhade and obfcure the other
parts and perfons : let him avoid affectation,
either to fhew his fuperior knowledge or
add weight to his opinions. Such are the
requifites he ought to poifefs who w^ould tra-
vel to advantage ; and fuch the principles
he fhould imbibe. To fuperior intelligence,
and a fpirit of obfervation, he mu ft add that
quick, deep, and penetrating fenfibility w'hich
alone can make himfelf or others feel, effec-
tually. Should he remain unmoved when
he views the place where Pompey the great
was affefhnated 5 fhould the wonders of
Egypt not flrike him with aflonifhment
and admiration ; fhould he not weep over
the auguft ruins of Alexandria, and the lofs
of 400,000 volumes, devoured by fire ;

fhould

PREFACE.

xi

ihould not enthufiaTm feize him> at be-
holding the ruins of Lacedaemon, Athens
and Thebes; let him beware of writing:
nature has not formed him to tranlinit thofe
feeling, thole fublime impreflions, which
objects fo grand ihould infpire.

Such fenfations, 1 imagine, I have had;
but whether I have conveyed them with
the force neceifary to render my travels in-
tereiling the public * mufl: determii^e. If
the reader accompanies me with pleafure, if
the reality of my defcriptions bring convidlion,
if the geographical and hiilorical details
inilrudl, if the memorable events I call to
mind are appoiite, and the parallel of ancient
and modern manners be traced by judgment
and reflection, 1 fliall have obtained the
height of my wiihes, and all the fatigues,
dangers, and labours I have undergone will
be amply rewarded.

LET-

BA DESERT. A

LETT E % ^

O It

EGYPT.

L E T T R I.

ji general defcription Egypt, end gT tee
changes it has undergone from the moft remote
antiquity to the prejent time, UnquiHes
concerning the topography of the country, the
labours of the Pbaroabs to turn tbt channel
of the Nile, and the original formatkn end .
gradual enlargement of the Delta,

To M, L* M*

Alexandria, July ike 1777*

Yo U complain, Sir, of my iilence^ and
cldm my promiies. •* Where/* iay you, arc ;
thofe pictures of Oriental manners, which,
knowing your inclination toobierve, 1 was led
to exped ? What ! have you been traver^g
Egypt theie three years, and not written one
VoL. I. B word

2 / LETTERS

word concerning a country the moft cele-
brated the earth contains ?'*

ducb. Sir, are your reproaches. But he
pleaied to recollect the advice which you
yourlelf gave me, when I left Paris, and in
that you will find my juflification. ** You
are going, young man, into a foreign coun-
try, among a people who will be new to
you. O.bfervc the influence of climate,
the power of religion, the imperious fway
** of ancient cuftoms, and the tyranny which
*• defpotifm exerts over fufltring humanity }
*'* in thefe you muft find the hiftory of their
vices and their virtues. To facilitate this
** ftudy learn the Eaflern i languages ; live
among, and converfe with, Greeks, Turks,
** and Arabs; and, that you may fee them
** fuch as they are, leave your prejudices be-
** hind you. Be it yoiir endeavour to paint
the people you behold after Nature ; let
the Turk refemble himfelf, and do not
** give us a picture of Paris inflead of Grand
« Cairo.”

Such were the precepts dilated by you.rwif-
dom; your judgement gave them weight,
your friendfhip rendered them dear to me, and
they have never been forgotten. Three years

of

OK E G Y ’f'T, 3i

of ttavd, pain» and labour, have been confe*
crated to my dedre to . put them in p^dlice;
had 1 written (boner, I had been lefs obe-
dient.

It appears necedary. Sir, iirfl: to ded:ribe the
limits pf Egypt, and thole revolutions which
time and the labours of man have efie£ted ;
the map, which accompanies this letter, will
be of Ibme adidance to you iii acquiring |he
fird of thefe. To the 'authorities of the an-
cients, the dilcoveries of Father Sicard, Po-
cock, Niebuhr, and D’Anville, I have added
my own obfervations. This laft geographer,

whole learned penetration could diieover truth
among the numerous contradictions . of tra-
vellers, has often been of great (ervice to me ;
nor do I ever quit him but in places which,
he having never feen, it was impodible for
him to avoid error.

Egypt is bounded on the north by the Me-
diterranean, by a chain of mountains, which
(eparate it from Nubia, on the ibuthj and
on the ead by the Rea Sea, and the Idhmus
of Suez; its wedern limits are the delerts
of Lybia, *in the midd of which dood the
temple of Jupiter Ammon. Its gfeated
length is about two hundred and twenty-

B 2 fi ve

LETTERS

4

five leagues, extending from Syene, which
is htuated under the tropic of Cancer, to
Cape Burlos, which is the moft projecting
land of the Delta, and almofl terminates the
3 2d degree of latitude.

Prawing>a line from the ruins of Pelu-
fium to the tower of the Arabs, formerly cal-
led Tapofiris,[we fhall find itsgreateft width
to be fixty-eight leagues; and this meafurement
agrees with that of the ancients, who com-
puted fifty-four leagues, eroding the Delta
from Pelufium to Canopus, and fourteen from
Canopus to Tapofiris. (aj

Egypt

^a) The bale of the Delta, from Pelufium to Cano-
pu*:, now called Alboukir, contained, according to Dio-
dorus Siculus and Strabo, 1300 lladia, which we may
efiimate at 54 leagues ; to which add 14 leagues from
Canopus to the tower of the Arabs, and the amount will
be 68 leagues. Herodotus reckoned 60 fehoenas, that is
to fay So leagues, between Mount Cafiiis and the bay of
Plintina, where Tapofiris ftood. Mount Cafius ftands
*12 leagues to the eaft of Pelufium; therefore fubtraA
X2 from 80 and the remainder will fiill. be 68 leagues
from Pelufium to Tapofiris. The two geographers, firft
mentioned, have evidently meafured the fame extent of
coun&y in a right line, and did not, like Herodotus, fol-
low'the balb of the Delta; for, between the age of He-
rodotus and the time in which they lived, that part of

figyp

O N E G y T. 5

Egypt is divided into Upper and Lower ;
the former is a long valley, beginning at
Syene, and ending at Grand Cairo. Two
ridges of mountains, which take their de-
parture from the lad; catara<d, form the lofi^
outlines of Upper Egypt : their parallel di-
re<5lion is from north to ibuth, till they reach
Grand Cairo, where, feparating to the right
and left, the one dretches towards mount Col-
zoum, and the other terminates in iand> banks,
near Alexandria. The former confids of Ifigh
rocks and clids, the latter of Tandy hills, the
bafe of which is a calcareous done. Beyond
thele mountains are deferts, bounded by the
Red Sea on the ead, and extending over Afri-
ca to the wed; in the centre lies that long
plain the greated width of which does not
exceed nine leagues. Here the Nile rolls his
waters between two infurmountable barriers :
now filent and tranquil, following the courfe
which nature and art have traced ; and anon
an impetuous torrent, red with the lands of
Ethiopia, fwelling, overflowing his banks,

Egypt had increafed, by the 'itnmenle quantity of fand
which ' the courfe of the Nile carries with it ; and, had
they followed the (ea-lhore, the admeafureiaent 'would
have been confiderably augmented.

B 3 and

6

K. E T T E R S

and fpreading his waters over the country for
■the {pace of two hundred leagues. In this
celebrated valley, man fird: fought, and firft
beheld, the light of fcience, whole radiance,
diffuhng itfelf over Greece, (b) has fuccef-
fively enlightened the reft of the world. This
valley, though ftill as fruitful as in the hap-
py days of Thebes, is much lefs cultivated ;
its famous cities are laid level with the duft $
laws and arts have been trodden under foot
by delpotifm and ignorance, and their throne
ufurped.

Lower Egypt includes all the country lying
between Grand Cairo, the Mediterranean,
the Ifthmus of Suez, and Lybia : fkirted
by ^id lands, this immenfe plain, contains
flips of land well cultivated, on the borders
of the canals, and in its centre that triangu-
lar iiland to which the Greeks gave the name
of Delta, formed by the two branches of

(h) Herodotus, Strabo, and Diodorus Siculus, pofi-
tively affirm the Greeks obtained moft of their know-
ledge from Egypt. Thence it was that Orpheus
and Homer brought mythology, and the daughters of
Danai'S the myfieries of Ceres. The Philofophers- of
Greece fludied afironomy there, and their legiflators the
principles of government.

the

o N E G T*P*T. 7

the Nile, which divide at Batn'elBakarmj (the
Cow*s Belly) and empty *themielves into the
iea-below Pamietta and Roletta. ' This iiland>,
the moil fruitful on earth, has loft much of
its extent, hnce the time when Canopus and
Peluiium were its limits, fcj The eaftern
bulwark of Egypt having been deftroyed by
conquerors, and thoie who cultivated the
earth becoming expoied to the inroads^ of
the Arabs, the inhabitants have retired far-
ther into the country. The canals, wliich
with their ftreams brought fertility, are dried
up : and the earth ceaftng to be watered, and
continually expoied to the burning heats of
the fun, is become a barren fand. Scattered '
over the plains which formerly contained
fruitful fields, and flouriihing cities, fdj on
the Pelufiac, Tanitic, and Mendefian arms,
which all flowed from the Damietta branch
of the Nile, we only And, at prefent, miie-
rable hamlets, furrounded by date-trees, and
defcrts. Theie canals, formerly navigable, ('ej

(c) Strabo, lib. 17.

( 4 ) Bubaftus, Peluiium, Phacufa, and all the cities
which Hood in the eallern part of the Delta, are totally
deftroyed.

(t) The Peluftac, Tanitic, and Mendefian branches
were formerly navigable.

B4

bear

4 '

L‘E»T T E R S

beiu: little reibmblance to their former ilate,
and iio longer cotnmunicate with the lake
JVleozala, except a very little w'hile during
the time of the inundation ; they are dry all
the reft of the year. By digging them, and
removing the mud which the river has left,
fince the Turks have been mafters of Egypt,
the country they traverfe would become
fertile, and the Delta reftored to its ancient
grandeur.

Having obtained a general idea of Egypt,
pleafe. Sir, to fix your attention on this rich
country, and the changes it has undergone.
Anterior to thofe times of which hiftory pre-
ierves any certain record, a people defeend-
ed from the 'mountains, which border on the
cataradl, into the valley the IQile inundates,^/]^
theix an impraifticable morafs, overrun with
reeds and bulrufhes. After repeated, and often
fatal trials, they difeovered fome falutary plants;
$mong thefe werfs the lotus, which Hero-
dotus

(f) .Herodotus, p. 40. Euterpe; Diodorus Siculus,
lib. I. and Strabo, lib. 17. all afeertain the fame
rr.^'‘The lotus is an aquatic plant peculiar to Egypt,
which* gro.ws iH' rivulets,- and by the. iide of lakes ;
thete are two fpecies, the one bearing a white, the other

a blue-

■ai^' EGYPT. V

. dotus calls the lily of the Nile 5 the reed we
have n£tmed the fugar-^cane, and which in
this country has prelerved its primitive appel>!'
lation cc^abt or reed f(b) the colocaflium, (tj
the onion, and the bean. Many years
/

a bluel£h flower. calbc of the lotus blows Ilka

that of a large ‘.uHp, diffiifing a fweetnefs like the
fmell of the lil3i^ The root of the firft fpecies is round,
refembling a potatoes ahd is caUn* by the inhabitants
who live near the lake Menzala. The rivulets, near
Damictta, are covered with this majeflic flower, «iwhich
rifes about two feet above the water. Mr. Paw
afErms it is no longer found in Egypt, and deferibes a
plant no way refembling the lotus. Recherches fur Its
Egyptiens fc? Us Cbineis, page 150. No wonder this learn-'
cd man was miftaken, ilnce moft of the travellers who
have been in Egypt never faw the lotus, which does not.,
grow on the great canals of the Nile, but among the
inland rivulets.

(h) Some authors fay the fugar-cane was brought
from. India to Egypt ; perhaps, the method of culti-
vating it only was brought. It Icems to me to be a
native of a country which produces many fpecies of
reeds, and where it grows wild. Its very natiie induces
this belief.

(i) The colocaflium is a plant w^ll known to botanifts.
It is particularly cultivated by the inhabitants of Da-
mietta : vafl: fields overfpread with its large leaves are
feen near this city. Its rout is in the form a cone,
and larger than that of the lotus, with a tidfe lefs infi-
pid than the potatoe.

padfed

10 LETTER,

pafled away before they thought of culti-
vating thefe. native plants ; but neceffity be-
gets induftry. He to whom chance, or
meditation, made any lucky difcovery was
a king, or a God. (k) Ohris taught men,
who till then were cannibals, to feed on the
fruits of the earth, inftead of human flelh ;
Ills, otherwife Ceres, indrudted them in
agriculture ; and both were deified. The
Egyptian Hercules, the mofl ancient of the
heroes fb named, freed the Thebais from the
monllers by which it was ravaged, and had
altars erected to him. While the people of
Upper Egypt were contending with wild
beails for their vafl marfhes, (1) the fea,
according to the ancients, wafhed the foot
of the mountains where the pyramids now
fiand; advancing towards the tower of .the
Arabs far into Lybia ; overflowing a part of
the Iflhmus of Suez, and forming an exten-
five bay, over the country we now call the
Delta. But 1 fhall pafs thefe ages, and come
to the times in .which the Egyptians, fub-

(k) Diodorus Siculus, p. 24.

{ 1 ) Hb'odotus, Strabo, and Diodorus Siculus re-
late the opinion of the Ethiopians on this fubjed.

jedfced

ON EGYPT.

If

jedlted to religion and laws* dug canals, to
give the ftagnant waters o.f the Nile vent;
railed high mounds, to oppofe its Ravages ;
and, weary of inhabiting rocky caverns, built
cities, on hill^ thrown up by art, or natures.
Boundaries were then prefcribed to the river,
and the habitations’ of men lecured from its
torrents, (m) Experience taught them to
forelee th^ leafon of inundation ; and geome-
try, meafuring the lands which induftry had
thus acquired, albertained individual proper-
ty. A mighty city role in the centre of the
Thebais, which it was the glory of fucceed-
ing kings to embellilh. Such was the mag-
nificence of its public llru^ures that now,
when more than four thoufand years have
elapled, its very ruins imprels the mind with
awe and admiration. Thebes flourilhed ages
before Rome was. Divided from the reft of
the world by deferts, mountains, and leas,
the Egyptians cultivated arts and fciences
in peace ; and their unremitting labours
daily extended the limits of their empire,
eitlier by raihng banks, to lecure their newly
acquired lands^ or by cutting deep* drains

(m) Herodotus, p. 40. Euterpe,

through

12

LETTERS

through thofe which iHll were marlhy* One
of the kings of £gypt» probably fore(eeing
the conlequences, undertook to turn the
courfe of the river, (n) which, after mean-
dering a hundred and fifty leagues between
the niountains I have mentioned, came to
ah infurmountable obftacle, turned fuddehly
to the left, and, running fbuth of Memphis,
ipread its waters over the fand% of Lybia.
This prince cut a new channel to the eaft
of Memphis, railed a large mound, and
obliged it to return between the mountains,
and difeharge itfelf into the bay that then
]bathed the rock on which the caflle of Grand
Cairo is built. The ancient bed of the river,
and the mound which dammed up its en-

(n) The prlefts fay that Menes, the firft king of Egypt,
built a bridge over the Nile, near Memphis j before
which time the river, pafilng Mount Pfammius, ran
fbuth of that city, and diffufed itfelf over the Lybian
deferts. Menes raifed a mound a hundred ftadia from
Memphis, oppofed its courfe, and forced it to return
between the mountains; by which means its firft bed
became dry. At prefent, the Perfians, who are maf-
ters of Egypt, repair this mound, which ihuts up the
ancient ^channel, at a great expence ; having added '
new works yearly, and appointed troops, to watch and
prelefve it from injury. Herodotus, p. 55.

trance.

O N E G Y P T. 13

trance* were to be feen ixi the time of He-
rodotus. The Perhans repaired the mound
with great cares nor is the courie of this
ancient bed unknown even at prefent ; it may
be traced acrofs the defert* pailing weft of
the lakes of Natroun* by petrified wood,
mafts, and lateen yards, the wrecks of vel^.
fels. by which it was anciently navigated.
The Arabs call this channel, which is now
nearly filled up, Babr -Bela Ma, (0) 2. iea
without water.

Egypt is indebted for the Delta to the
labours of this monarch. The enormous
weight of the waters of the Nile, difchargihg
themfelves into this gulph, repelled the iea ;
and the fand and mire they carried with
them, in their courie, accumulated. The
Delta, very inconfiderable at firft, roie from
the iea, by encroaching on its limits : it was
the gift of the river. Agriculture .and man
came to its defence, by railing mounds. In
the time ofMceris, who lived 'five hundred
years before the Trojan war, the Delta was
in its infancy s fpj eight cubits were fuffi-

(0) Great rivers are called by the Arabs ^ahr^ or
fea.

Cp) Herodotus, p. 41. Euterpe.

cient

LETTERS

14

cient to overflow it entirely; they rowed
over it in boats ; and its towns, built on ar-
tificial mounts, refembled the iflands of the
iEgean lea. ( q) In the age of Herodotus,
flfceen cubits were neceflary to overflow the
Xiower £gypt ; but die Nile, at that time,
inundated the countiy for the ipace of two
days journ^ to the right and left of the
Delta. Under the Roman empire, flxteen
cubits produced fimilar efie<5ts ; and when the
Anibs governed, their writers fpeak of fe-
venteen as the mofl: favourable height.
The flandard of abundance, at prefen t, is
eighteen cubits ; but Lower Egypt is no
longer overflowed ; the inundation goes no
farther than Grand Cairo, and the neigh-
bouring country. The Nile, however, of-
ten rifes to two-and-twenty cubits. This
phaenomenon has been produced by an in-
creafe of mud, fuccefliively depoiited, during
ib many ages. Art has like wife contri-
buted towards it, either by raiflng the lands
mofl expofed to the action of the river,
by multiplying its outlets, or by cutting ca-
nals, which gave free courfe to the waters.

r

{q) Strabo, lib. 17, p. 1136.

I have

ON EGYPT.

(^r). I have twice made the tour of the
Delta» during the time of inundation, fince
1 have been in Egypt, and haye even eroded
it by the canal of Menouf. The river,
though full to the brim in the great branches
of Rofetta and Damietta, and thoie which
run through the interior parts of the coun-
try, only overdowed the land where it lay
low, or where banks had been railed to Hop
its waters, and throw- them over the rice
fields. Thus, in the (pace of 3284. yters,
the Delta has riien fourteen cubits, (s)
Yet we muft not believe, the conjec-
tures of thofe travellers who fuppofe this
ifland will become higher, and incapable
of cultivation: being indebted, for itsincreafe,
to the mud which the courfe of the Nile

Strabo, lib. 17. fays die Bolbitine and Sebenitic
channels of the Nile were both dug by t&e’ hand of
man.

(s) To render this . calculation exaA, we ought to
know whether the Greek, the Roman, and Arabian
cubit were precifely the fame, or what were the vari-
ations it has undergone, among thefe different people;
which would be a thing very difficult to demonftrate.
But this precilton not being effential to mj ftfbjed, 1
ihair content myfelf with relating fads and th(7tefiimO'v
nies of authors.

carried

le L E T T E R S

carried with . it» and annually depodted, when
it ceafes to inundated,, this edeiS: muii
likewiie c^(e.*^ It has been demonftrated that
culture is not fuiHcient to raiie land.

The prefent podtion of the Delta is the
bed; podible for agriculture. Walhed on the
ead; and wed: by two rivers, which the Nile,
in dividing, forms, as wide' and deeper than
the Loire, interfedled by innumerable rivulets,
it is* one immenfe garden, the beds and com-
partments of which may all be watered.
The Thebais is under, water three, months
of the year; mean while the Delta pof-
&des fields covered with rice, barley, ve-*
getables, and winter fruits : nor does it now,
as formerly, relemble the .^gean lea, with
her Cyckdes. As far as the eye is capable
of feeing,' rich crops cover its plains, groves
of date, orange, and iycamore-trees, ftrcams,
ever running, verdure, ever changing, and ever
renewing, and abundance, which rejoices the
heart and ailonidies the imagination. Ceadng
to be 07erflowed, this ifland has a yearly
grin of the three months during which the
Thebais is inundated, for which realbn, it is
the only part of Egypt where the fame field

yields

ON EGYPT, ty

yields a double crop of grain ; the one of rice,
the oth er of barley.

While it increafcd in heigh tj you may well
fuppoie. Sir, it augmented in length likevviie ;
to prove which, among various fails which
hiftory has preierved, I lhall felecl only one.
('t) During the reign of Plammetichi-s, the
Milefians, with thirty fliips, landed at the
mouth of the Eolbiline branch, at preltint
the branch of Roletta, where they fortified
themfeives^ and built a city, which they cal-
led Meteiis, now named Faoua, but which,
in the Coptic vccabularies, is fiill called Ivlei-
fil. This city, which was formerly a fea-port,
ftands, at prelent, nine leagues from the fliore f
which (pace the Delta has lengthened from
the age of Pfammetichus to the prefent.

Homer, that fublime painter of nations
and countries, whole geographic details are
l^ie moil precious remains, of the kind, tranf-
xnitted to us by all antiquity, makes Mene-
laus, becalmed on the Egyptian (hore, fpeak
thus, “ In theftormy fea that bathes the

“ coaft of Egypt is an iiland named Pharos,
•* whole difiance from the fliore is as far as

** a

( t) Strabo, lib. 17.

(u) Odyfley, book iv.

VoL. I.

C

i8 LETTERS

** a ye:n!el, impelled by a favourable wind«
“ may fail in one day.” — And, again, Prote-
us, propheiying to Menelaus, thus fpeaks.
(x) Dediny forbids that thou ihouldell lee
V thy friends, thy palace, and thy native
** land, till thou haft firft returned to where
the Egyptus {'yj, Jove.born, rolls his wa-
** ters, and there haft cftered hecatombs to
the immortal gods.'— He faid, and the be-
** beft obliged me, with a broken heart, again
** to traverfe that vaft and ftormy fca which
feparates the Pharos from the Egyptian
** continent.”

Homer, who had travelled over Egypt (z)»
where he had learned that mythology, from
the priefts, of which he makes fo beautiful
ufc in his poems, deicribes the ifland of Pha-
ros, which now forms part of Alexandria,
as being twenty leagues diftant from the ihore
of Egypt, at -leaft 5 which opinion is accor-
dant to that, of the higheft antiquity.

(x) Odyffey, book iv.

CyJ The Nile was called Egyptus until the time of
Nileus, one of the fuccelTors of Mendcs, who, after
many kibours to confine and impede its ravages, named
it after himfelf. Diod. Sic. lib. i.

CzJ Diodorus Siculus.

What

ON EGYPT.

What immenfc revolutions have great ri-
vers occahoned on the furface of the globe !
How do they inceffantly repel the fea, by ac-
cumulating fand on fand I How do they raife
up iflands, at their mouths, which, in time,
become part of the continent ! Thus has the
Hile formed almoft all the Lower Egypt; and
thus the Delta, which is ninety leagues in
circumference, has rifen from its waters !
Thus alfo has the Meander, inceffantly driv-
ing back the waves of the IVXediterranean, and
by degrees filling up the bay in which it
difembogues itfeif, caft the city of Miletus far
within land, though it formerly was a famous
fea-port ! Thus do the Tigris and Euphrates,
defeending from the Armenian mountains,
fvveep down the fands of Mefopotamia, and
imperceptibly choak up the Perfian gulph.

You have now. Sir, a general idea of
Egypt, and the principal changes which have
happened there. I (hall, therefore, proceed
to be more circumfiantial, and you will then
perhaps think my narrative more interefting.
Here, in the midil of Alexandria, fixed with
affonilhment at beholding monuments ^hich
neither the ravages of man nor time could
yet defiroy, weeping over the fenfelefs re-

C 2 mains

1^ LETTERS

mains of columns and obeliiks which adorn-
ed its public fquares and temples, here will 1
write to you concerning the city of Alexan-
der, the Alexandria of the Arabs, and the
milerable huts to which the Turks prefume
to give that pompous title. Barbarians !
throughout their vaft empire, they have Aided
arts, fciences, cities, and kingdoms ; and the
' name only remains of all thofe famous works,
which their ignorance has left to perilh, or
their intolerable fanaticifm has deAroyed !

1 have the honour to be, &c.

LETTER

ON E <S Y P T.

LETTER II.

Alexandria^ ancient, middle, and modern, with
its monuments, and three bar sde-
fcribed: its fuccejfive revolutions under the
Ptolemies, Romans, Greeks, Arabs, and Ot
tomans.

To M. L. M.

Alexandria.

./Vlexandria, Sir, is well worthy your
attention. The rank it once held amon?
the moft celebrated cities ( a), the learned
men to which it has given birth, and the re-
maining monuments which, though two
thoufand years have palled away, ftill attell
its former glory, have a claim on your cu-
rioiity. To gratify this I have been three
months examining the place where once it
flood . By reading the Greek, Latin, and
Arabic authors, I lhall be enabled to dif-

(a) Diodorus Siculus, who wrote at Ronve under
Augullus, calls Alexandria the firft city of the world,
lib. 17.

C3

cover

LETTERS

cover it beneath its own rubbifh ; and, by
comparing their writings with what I my-^
felf fee, trace out its plan. Is it not a me-
lancholy, a painful, talk, to leek a once fa-
mous city within its own walls ?

AGa Minor fubdued, and the pride of Tyre
humbled, Alexander marched for Egypt, then
groaning under the Perfian yoke ; he con-
quered it without a battle? the people, de-
firous to free theo'jfelvcs from their fetters,
received him, like a deliverer, with open
arms, To preferve this conqaefl, fo diftant
from his own kingdom, a fortrefs was necef-
fary, which fbould contain a port capable of
harbouring a powerful navy. Alexander
heftotved on Egypt an advantage fo precious j
which till then it did not poffefs. The (pace
which lay between Lake Mareotis and the
excellent harbour formed by the ifle of Pha-
ros fbj he found proper for his purpofe,

and

(b ) Homer, as I have already fho\vn, defcrlbes the ifle
pf Pharos as Aanding at the diftance of a day’s naviga-
tion from the (hore of Egypt, becaufe at that time
the L?ke Mareotis joined the fea, and formed a bay.
Turing the five hundred years which elapfed between
the time of ilbiv.cr and the foundation of Alexandria,

canals

ON EGYPT.

*3

and traced the limits of a great city, to which
he gave his name j then vihted the miracles
of Upper Egypt, while the engineer Dino-
chares put his plan in execution. Alex-
ander was gone almoft a year, and, at his re-
turn, found Alexandria nearly iiniOied. (c)
He then peopled it with the inhabitants of
the neighbouring cities, and purfued his con-
queils.

Alexandria was a league and a half in len|;th,
and one third as wide ; fo that its walls were
about four leagues in circumference, (d)

canals had been cut over Lower Egypt ; and the Lake
Mareotis, into which the waters of the Thebais dif-
charge themfelvcs, withdrew fo far, from the fea, as to
form the flip of land on which Alexander built this
city. When Caefar, Strabo, Diodorus Siculus wrote, it
bathed the walls. Under the Arabs, it retired half a
league ; and, beneath the dellru£tive empire of the Otto-
mans, it has difappeared. A traveller who fhould at
prefent viflt Egypt, having read only Homer, would lay
with Madame Dacier, Pope, and many others of the
learned, that his defcriptlon of Pharos was merely the
iport of the imagination.

(c) Quintus Curtius, lib. 4. cap. 8.

( Qidntus Curtius fays they were 80 ftadia, or 3
leagues one third. Pliny, 15 Roman miles^ or 5
leagues, ^rabo, 76 ftadia, or 3 leagues and an eighth.
Diodprus Siculus, 96 ftadia, or 4 leagues.

C4

and

LETTERS

and were wa{hed by the lake Marebtis bn thb
fouth, and the Mediterranean on the north.
The Greets, lengthvi'ays, ran llraight, and pa-
rallel to each other ; thus giving a free paiTage
to the north wind, which, alone, is healthy
and temperate in Egypt. A ftreet two thou-
fand feet wdde began at the marine gate,
and ended at the gate of Canopus, adorned
by ^magnificent houfes, temples, and public
edifices. Through this extent of profpeiS: the
eye' was never iatiated with admiring the
marble, the porphyry, and the obelifks,
v-’hich were deflined hereafter to embellifh
Rome and Conftantinople (e). This flreet,
the fineft the world ever faw, was crofTed
by another of equal width (fj, thus form-
ing a fquare,, at the point of interfedtion,
half a league in circumference, from the
centre of which the two gates were feen,
and vefTels under fail, both to the north and
fouth.

A mole was thrown up, from the conti-
nent to the ifland of Pharos, of a mile long,

(sj It is well known the dbeliflis which are at Koine
^ere brought from Alexandria.

(/) DMorus Siculus, Strabo, lib. x^.

whicli

ON 5 G Y P :t.

(z) which divided the harbour. The part
fK)rth of the mole preierved the name of the
grand harbour, and a mound, cari;ied from
the iiland to the rode on which the Pharos
itood, fecured it from the weft winds. The
other harbour was called Eunoftus, or the
good return. At prefent, the firft is called
the New Port, the fecond the Old. There
was a bridge of communication between the
mole and the city, built on high columns,
funk in the fea, and leaving a free paftage to
veffels. The palace began far beyond the
promontory Lochias, and extended as far as
the mound, occupying more than a fourth
of the city, (h) The Ptolemies all con«
tributed to its magnificence; and with-
in its walls were the mufeum, that afy-
lum of the learned, groves, edifices, wor-
thy royal majefty, and a temple where the
body of Alexander, in a golden coffin, had
been depofited. (i) The infamous Seleucus

CybiofadieB

'Cl) This mole was named Hepta Btadium, becaufe ft
was feven iladin, or one mile long.

(bj Strabo, lib. 17, fays it occupied a third. .

(i) Perdic^s undertook to convey the body of Alex>
spder to the temple 'of Jupiter Ammon, as he Jiad
^ commanded

LETTERS

Cybiofa£tes violated this tomb, carried ofF
the golden ;Coffin, and left one of glafs in its
Read. 7^e iiland of Anti-Rhode Rood in
the grand harbour $ it contained a theatre
and a royal palace. In the harbour of Eu-
noRus was another harbour, or dock, dug
by the hand of man, named Kihotos, (k)
which communicated with the lake Mare-
otis by a canal. Between this canal and the
palace Rood the admirable temple of Sera-
pisj (1) that of Neptune was built near the
grand fquare, where the market was kept.
Alexandria extended itfelf Rill farther on the
fouthern borders of the lake, and on its
eaRern Rde was the gymnaRum, with por-
ticos more than Rx hundred feet long, reR-
ing on feveral rows of marble columns.
Without the gate of Canopus was a ipa-
clous circus, for chariot races ; and, beyond,
the fuburb of Nicopolis Ijpread along the fea
ihore, like another Alexandria. A fuperb
amphitheatre was built here, with a Radium,

commanded in his will ; but Ptolemy, the fon of La-
giis, having carried it off, depolited it in the palace of

Alexahdria.

%

(i) Kibotesy The harbour of the Ark.

(!) Strabo, lib. xy.

foK

O N E G Y P T. ^7

ibr the celebration of the Quinquennalia. (m)
Such is the defcription which the ancients^
and particularly Strabo, have left us of Alex-
andria ; a city built three hundred and thir-
ty-three years before Chrift, and fucceSively
fubie<^ to the Ptolemies, Romans, and the

■I

Greek Emperors, (n) About the middle
of the fixth century, Amrou Ebn el Aas,
the general of Omar, carried it by adault,
af er a fourteen months Sege, which coft
him twenty-three thoufand men. Heraclius,
Emperor of Conilantinople, did not fend a
hngle veflel tor its aid. There are few ex-
amples in hiilory of a prince like this, who
difcovered activity in the firfl year of his
reign, flumbered long afterwards in effemi-
nate idlenefs, and, fuddenly rouhng at the
fame of the conqueds of Cofroes, the fcourge
of the Eafl, put himfelf at the head of his
armies, (hewed himfelf a great commander
the firft campaign, ravaged Perfia during

(m) Games celebrated once in five years.

(n) The tenth year of the Hegyra, and A. D.
651, was, according to Abulfcda, the year 994 after
its foundation. Abulfcda ufes the word Era, *which,
as I have faid in the life of Mahomet, is derived from
Arldia, which in Arabic is fynonymotis to epocha,

fevec

** tETTERS

Aren Jtats, te-eatered big cgpital logded
■With iauTe\8> then, turning theologian on
the throne, loft his energy, and
reft of his life in difputing on monothelifm,
while the Arabs deprived him of the fineft
provinces of his empire. Deaf to the cries
of the ivretched citizens of Alexandria, as
he had been to thofe of Jerufalem, (oj
who had defended themlelves for two years,
he fuftered them to' fall before the indefati-
galble and fortunate Amrou ; their brave
warriors all periftiing fword in hand.

Aftoniftied at his vidlory,* the conqueror
wrote to the Caliph—** I have taken the
•* city of the weft, the extent of which is
** immenfe, and its miracles too numerous
** for me to defcribe. It contains four thou-
** fand baths, twelve thoufand venders of
** vegetables, four thoufand Jews, who

(o) Omar led the force of Arabia againll: Jerula-
lem, which its inhabitants defended with admirable con-
ftancy, and feveral times lent to conjure Heraclius to
£rant them fuccour ; but, their prayers being fruitlefs,
they were obliged to yield after a two years Hcge, with-
out having obtained a ilngle foldier from the Emperor,
who facrificed his time and treafures to eilablilh a new
feet.

D N E G y P T*.

pay tribute> four thoufand comedians,
« &c.” (p)

The library, in which the careful Ptole-
mies had aifembled more than four hun-
dred thoufand manufcrlpts, drew the victor's
attention, who wrote to the Caliph for or-
ders. “ Burn them,” replied the ferocious
Omar ; “ if they contain only what is in the
** Koran they are ufelefs ; and dangerous *if
“ any thing more.” Barbarous fenten^e,
which reduced to adies the greateft part of
the learned labours of antiquity! Of what
knowledge, what arts, what immortal works,
did not this fatal conflagration deprive the
world ! We ought, perhaps, to date that
ignorance which ipread a veil over countries
that firft gave birth to fcience from this
fatal period. Let us but fuppofe three-
fourths of the 'works Europe poileiles fud-
denly annihilated, the art of printing un-
known, and an illiterate people become
mafters of that fine quarter of the globe,
and w^e can ea^^y imagine it again fallen into
that barbarifm which it has been the labour

{p) Elmacin, life of Omar, p. 39,

of

LETTERS

3 «

of fo many ages to Eradicate. Such was tho
fate of the £a(l !

Thus fubjeAed to the Arabs> Alexandria
gradually declined : the diilance of the
caliphs of Bagdad prevented their a^ord-
ing any powerful fupport to commerce and
arts, and population daily diminiilied ; thus,
in the year 875, the circumference of the
city was reduced one half, the ancient walls
were demolilhed, and thofe built which ftill
remain. Their folidity, thicknefs, and the
hundred towers by which they '.vere ilankcd,
have prefervcd them againii: the efiorts of
man, and the ravages of time. This may
he called the Alexandria of the Arabs^
which continued flouridilng in the thirteenth
century, .The equal interfedtion of its
fcrects made it refemble a chequer ; part of
its fquares and public buildings were pre-
ferved; its commerce extended from Spain

fqj This happened under the reign of Elmctouak-
kel, the tenth caliph of the Abaflldcs, and the thirty-f.rfi
from Mahomet. Elmacin. £&a Tuidon^ then governor
of Egypt, and who thought of rendering hiinfclf inde-
pendeat, built thefe walls.

(r/ Abulfeda, Geographical Dsfeription of Egypt.

O N £ G Y P T.

to India i its canals were kept in repair, and
its merchandize fent into Upper Egypt, by
the lake Mareotis, and into the Delta, by
the canal of Faoua. (sj The Pharos, built
by Softrates, of Cnidus, containing feveral
ftories, and furfbunded by galleries fup-
portcd by marble columns, ftill remained.
This miraculous tower, as Caefar calls it,
was near four hundred feet high i on its
fummit was a vaft mirror of polilhed fteel,
(t) difpofed as to prefent the image of
d'ftant vefTels before they were viiible to the
eye. This admirable tower ferved as a fig-
nal to (hipping ; it was lighted up, during
night, to inform mariners of their approach
to the Egyptian coaft, which is fo low that
there is great danger of running a-ground
before it can be fcen. Alexandria, in its
decline, ftill preferved an air of grandeur,
and magnificence, which excited admiration.

The Turks ieized on Egypt in the fifteenth

(s) It was built under Ptolemy Philadelphus.

(t) Abulfeda Ipeaks of this mirror, mentioned by
feveral Arabian authors, in his defeription of Egypt,
and fays, it was deftroyed by the arts 6f the Chriftlans,
under the reign of Oualid, fon of Abd el Melee.

century.

LETTERS

century, {u) and this put a period to its
glory. At that time grammar, adronomy,
geometry, and poetry, were cultivated there 5
but the iron rod of the Pachas foon drove
away theie remains of the fine arts ; a pro-
hibition to export the corn of the Thebais
gave a mortal blow to agriculture; the ca-
nals dried up, commerce languifhed, and the
Alexnj.dria of the Arabs was lb wholly de-
pop:ji.ited that not a fingle inhabitant rc-
xnai.'ied ; the grand buildings they hed aban-
doned fell to ruin, no one daring to repair
them, under a government that made wealth
a crime, and poor hats were built on the
lea Ihore. The Pharos, which had been
reckoned among the feven wonders of the
w'orld, was dedroyed, and in its 'dead a
fquare cadle built, without tade or orna-
ment, and incapable of fudaining the fire of.
a fingle veflel of the line. At prelent, in a
Ipace of two leagues, walled round, nothing
is to be feen but marble columns, lying in

fu) Sultan Selim conquered Egypt in 1517, and the
firft act of this barbarous vi^or was to hang Thoman-
bey, tYie laft king of the Mamiukes, whofe government
had fublllled near 300 years, under the gate named Bab
iSStOuila.

the

O N E G Y P T. 35

the duft, and fa wed in pieces, for the Turks
make mill-ftones of them, or ftanding ercdt,
firm and refiftlefs by their enormous weight,
together with the remains of pilafters, capi-
tals, obeliiks, and mountains of ruins, heap-
ed on each other ! Who, at beholding fuch
precious rubbifii, and recollediing the fa-
mous monuments of which they were once
a part, can, in the afilidtion of his foul, re-
frain from weeping over them ?

Modern Alexandria is a place of finrili
extent, fcarcely containing fix thoufand in-
habitants, (x) but exceedingly commercial^
which advantage it owes to its fituation.
It is built on the ground over which
formerly the water of the grand harbour
flowed, but which the retiring lea has now
left dry. The mole, which was carried to
the ifle of Pharos, is now enlarged and be-
come part of the continent j and the iiland
of Anti- Rhode is the centre of the new town j
it is known by an eminence, covered with
ruins. The harbour of Kibotos is dry, and

(x) Ancient AlexanJria eontained 300,000 free in-
habitants, in the time of Auguftus \ a double number
of flaves may at leaft be added, and the amount wilt
be 900,000. How prodigious the difference.

Vpi,, L D the

34

t E T T E R S

the canal that ran into it, from the lake
Mareotis,. has diiappeared ; the very lake
itfelf, on the borders of which the papyrus
and date-tree abounded, no longer exifts ;
the Turks having neglected to repair the
canals, through which the waters of the
Nile flowed into it. Belon, a very accurate
obfervcr, who travelled Egypt fbme years
after the Ottoman conqueft, affirms that, in
his time, the lake Mareotis was but half
a^ league diflant from the • walls of Alex-
andria, and that it was furrounded by forefls
of palm-trees, (yj The fands of Lybia are,
now, where once thefe waters were ! To
the deftruftivc government of the Turks
mufl: we attribute thefe deplorable changes.

The canal of Faoua, the only one which
flill runs to Alexandria, and without which it
could no longer be a town, iince it has not
a drop of foft water, is half filled up with
mud, and fand. Under the government of
the Romans, and even of the Arabs, it was
navigable all the year, and fertilized the
plains it traverfed i its banks were fhaded by

(y) Belon, Defcription of Alexandria. This writer
travelled in Egypt fifteen years after the conqueft of
Selim, about 250 years ago.

date-

ON EG Y'P T.

35

date-trees, covered by vines, and embel-
lished by pleafure houfes. The ft: earn
only flows now about the end of Auguft,
and there is Scarcely fufficient time to Sill the
reServoirs and cifterns of the town ; the lands,
it once made fruitful, are now become de-

fzj The following paflage of Abulfeda will confirm
what I have find. “ No profpea can be more agrees^le
** than that of the canal of Alexandria : gardens, groves,
** and an eternal verdure, adorn its banks $ as Dafhrd
el Hadad thus has deferibed them, in thcie beautiful
“ verfes.

How pleafant are the banks of the canal of Alexan-
“ dria ! When the eye furveys them the heart is re-
** joiced ! The gliding boatman, beholding its’bowers,
<* beholds canopies ever verdant ; the lovely Aquilon
breathes cooling frefhnefs, while he fportful ripples
“ up the furfacc of its waters ; the ample Date, whole
** flexible head reclines like a fleeping beauty, is crowned
“ with pendent fruit.**

Oua khalig EUfytnderif ellatl iatiha men el Nil mm
ahfan el mentezhat laenno daiak Aiakdar el janebiny bel
fatin oua Jih iecoul el Hadad:

Ou aJlAe ahadet Painak menxara
Ja efferour bo le calhak ou afda
Roud le mekbadder eladar oua gedaoual
Nakajbet aleih id eeh, cbemal mebareda
Oua-l-Nakhl Kelghid el bajpm tezainet
Oua lebes men atmarhen ealaida.

Abulfeda, Defeription of Egypt.

3# L E t T E R S

ferts* and the groves and gardens, around
Alexandria, have diiappeared, with the ftreams
that watered them ; a few trees only are
feen without the walls, thinly {battered, “of
fycamore, fig, the fruit of which is deli-
cious, dates, the caper fhrub, and the fou*
da, or kali, which fpread a partial verdure
over huming lands, the fight of which is
iitfupportable.

Yet are not all tolcens of the ancient mag-
nificence of Alexandria efiaced; its cifierns,
vaulted with great art, which were built under
all parts of the city, and its numerous aque-
ducts, are almofl entire, though they have
remained two thoufand years. Towards
the eaftern part of the palace are the two
obelifks, vulgarly called Cleopatra's nee-
dles, (a) of Thebaian (tone, and containing
numerous hieroglyphics : one is thrown down,
broken, and covered with fand; the other
flill reds on its pededal ; each, cut from one
fingle done, is about fixty feet high, and fe-

(a) Pocock fuppofes they ftood before the Temple of
Neptune, but this temple was built near the harbour
Runoftus,. and the obelilks are half a league farther, to-
wards the promontory Lochias $ where, according to
Strabo, the palace was built.

ven

O N £ G Y P T. 37

ven f^uare, at the baie. Near the |^te of
Roietta are five marble columns, in the
plstce where the porticos of the gymnafiiim
Rood ; the remainder of the colonnade, the '
ranges of which, a hundred years ago, might
be traced, (b) has been defiroyed by the
barbarifm of the Turks.

A column of red granite, {landing a quar-
ter of a league from the fouth gate, parti-
cularly attradls the attention of travellers ;
the capital is Corinthian, with undented,
fmooth, palm-leaves ; it is nine feet high ;
the {haft and the upper torus of the bale are
one fingle block of ninety feet long, and
nine in diameter; the bale is about fif-
teen feet fquare. This block of marble,
fixty feet in circumference, refis on two
layers of {lone, held together by lead; which
could not prevent the Arabs from forcing
feveral of them out, in fearch of an imagi-
nary treafiire. The whole column is a hun-
dred and fourteen feet high, and Rill pre-
ferves a perfect poliih, except a little chipped
toward the eall. Nothing can equal its

(h) Maillet, Defcription of Egypt.

D3

• majeily I

t Z ^ T t K &

3 ^

itiajefty ! At a diilance« it is Aea predo-
minant over the city ; and, at (erves as
a iignal for mariners : near, it creates afto<^
nifhment, mingled with awe: the ipedator
is never weaiy of adniiring the beauQr of the
Capita], the length of the ihaft, or the grand
£mplicity of the pedeftal ; and, I am per-
fuadcd, were this column traniported and
placed before the palace of our kings, all
Edfope would come and pay their tribute of
adgiiratlon, as to the moft magnificent mo*
nument on earth !

Travellers, and men of literature, have
made many fruitlefs attempts to difcover to
what prince it was dedicated : the moll in-
telligent have thought it could pot be in ho-
nour of Pompey, fince Strabo and Diodorus
Siculus have not mentioned it $ they there-
fore remained in doubt, from which Abul-
feda, in my opinion, might have relieved
them. He calls it the column of Severus,
(cj and hiftory informs us this Emperor

Qua eicanderie alalhat bahr clrqum, oua beha
elroenarat e) mafhhoura, oua beha Aamoud Severi.

Alexandria is built on the fca fliore, and pofleflles a
famous* Pharos, and the column of Severus* Abulfe-
da, Defpription of Egypt.

vifited

ON EGYPT.

39

vifited Bgypt> (d) appointed a court of juftice
in the city of Alexandria^ and deferved well
of its inhabitants. This column was a
mark of their gratitude; the greek in-^
Icription, half effaced} but vifible on the
weftern fide, when the fun (hihes on it,
was no doubt legible in the time of Abulfe-
da, and contained the name of Severus,
Neither is this the foie monument ere<3:ed to
him, by the gratitude of the people of Alex-
andria ; in the midfi: of the ruins of Anti-
noe, built by Adrian, is a magnificent co-
lumn, the infcription on which ftill fubfifts,
dedicated to Alexander Severus. Half a league
fouth of the city is the defeent into the ca-
tacombs, the ancient alylum of the dead.
Winding alleys lead to the fubterranean ca-
verns where they were depofited. The fuh-
urb of Necropolis (e) extended thus far,

(d) The Emperor Severus came to die city of Alexv
andria, and granted the people a ienate, which, till
dien, had been under the authority of a Angle Roman
magiftrate, having no national council, but, as in the
time of the Ptolemies, the will of the prince was then
law. The benefactions of Severus did not end i^cre,
for he changed feveral laws in their favour. Sparti-
anus Vita Severi, cap. 17.

f 0) The ciqr of the dejid^where therer are gardens, tern*
pies, and (lately nuufoleums.

D 4 Advancing

46

LETTERS

Advancing toward the Tea, we come to a large
balbn^ hewn in the rock which ftands on the
£hore ; two handibme apartments have been
cut in the fides of the baibn, with banks crof-
ling them ; into thefe the Tea water runs, as
clear and ‘tranfparent as cryftal, through a
canal, dug with angular turnings to retain
the fand $ and here 1 bathed. . When Tested
OK the rocky bank, the water riles Ibmewhat
above the middle $ the feet reft on a loft 6ne
j&hd ; the waves are heard, roaring againft
the rock, and foaming through the canal ;
they enter, raile you up, retire, and, thus
palling and repalling, bring, with water con-
tinually freft), a coolnefs moft delicious, un-
der a Iky fo fultry. This is vulgarly called
Cleopatra’s bath, and there are ruins which
denote it was formerly embellilbed.

I muft not quit Alexandria, Sir, without
bringing Tome of thole memorable things to
recolledtion which have happened in this ci-
ty. * Imagine you behold yonder mount, near
which Caefar, firing the arlenal of the Alex-
andrians, confumed a part of the Ptolemoean
library. At the entrance of this port, repuU
led by his enemies, he threw himlelf, arm-
ed, into the waves } and^ ever mafter of him-

felf.

ON EGYPT.

4 *

felf* foreieeing the nuihbers of the flying
would prelently fink his fiiip, fwatn to one
more diftant : his prelence of mind fayed him*
for his vefiel and all on board were fwallowed
up. Yonder Cleopatra, famous for her
beauty, her talents, and arts, enfnared the
hero, awhile reftrained his ever refilefs am-
bition, and, lulling him in the bofom of vo-
luptoufnels, led him in her train, up the Nile,
at the very moment he ought to have iet fail
for Rome, the gates of which were in dan-
ger of being for ever fliut upon him. Be-
fide theie columns, melancholy mementos
of the gymnafium, the haughty queen of
Egypt, feated on a throne of gold, received,
in prefence of the wondering world, the ti-
tle of wife to Antony, who there facrificed
fame to love. Loll in pleafures, having fuf-
fered the moment of cpnquelt to efcape, ihe
caufed herfelf to be bit by an afpic, he fell
upon his fword ; and thus, in death, afibrded
a memorable example to pofterity.

Where yonder rubbifh lies the muleum
flood, once the alylum of fciences. Appian,
Herodian, Euclid, Origen, Philo, and ^ mul-
titude of other learned men, cultivated them
there. Ignorance and barbarifm have now

overwhelmed

42 LETTERS

overwhelmed the country of die fine arts*
which nothing but ibme prodigious revolu-
tion can ever refiore.

This is a long letter* Sir; I (hall there-
fore forbear to add obfervations oh the man-
ners and trade of the people of Alexandria :
thefe will find a place hereafter* and I haften
to quit a city where one exifts in the midft
of ruins* where every objeA infpires griei^
where the inhabitants are a mixture of Moors
and Turks whole crimes have expelled them
from their country* where the Bedouin
Arabs come and rob you in open day* and
where* in fine* nature* dead eleven months
of the year* decks hierlelf in a momentary
verdure only to inipire lafiing regret !

I have the honour to be* &c.

LET

ON EGYPT.

43

LETTER III.

^be route from Alexandria to Rofitta^ acrqfi
the defer t ; with the ^fcription f Abou^
kir, former^ Canopus i the famous temple
of Seraph i the fefthsaU held there i the
dangers tf the defert^ and the delightful
environs f Rsfetta.

To M. L>. M.

_ Rofetta.

^I^RAVELLERS, Sir, who go from Alex-
andria to Rofetta by land, leave the canal of
Faoua on the right, near the ruina of
the grand circus, and, on the left, meet
with the remsuns of Nicopolis, a fuburb
which was embellilhed by Auguftus, after
his vidloiy over Antony. Here, for the (pace
of two leagues, nothing is to be ieen but
heaps of rubbiih, burying the precious re-
ipains of antiquity. Coafting^ afterwards,
belide the iea^ the profpedfc extends on one
hand over waves, and on the other over l^dy
^elds, of melancholy and arid uniformity,

which

44 L £ r T E R S.

ivhich is here and there interrupted by date-
trees. The Bedouin Arabs bring their flocks
to feed here, during winter, and, in fummer,
gather fouda (f) in heaps, burn it, and fell
the aflies to the inhabitants of Alexandria,
\^ho export it into Syria, and the ifle of
Crete, where it is uied in making ibap.
Thefe wandering Arabs, on the flrfl tidings
of a revolution in Egypt, mount their horfes,
infefl the high roads, and plunder travellers.
'Six leagues from Alexandria is the Madia,
(g) where there is a ferry, at the farther
end of the canal of Canopus, which, taking
its departure from Faoua, falls into the lake
Behera. This lake is ieven leagues in cir-
cumference, and empties itlelf into the.iea,
near Alboukir, (b) which fmall town is the
»icient Canopus. Its diilance, fix leagues
from Pharos, and its fituation, on the lea
flbore, perfeiffcly agree with the defcription
the ancients have given us of Canopus.
Pliny, who had colle^fled the authorities of

(f) Kali, fouAi, or glafs wort, is a creeping plant
wluch grows in the fands.

(g) in Arabic, lignifies the paffage over a
lake^ or river.

(hj^ This place is called Beider, by mariners.

antiquity.

O N E G Y P T. 45

antiquity, iays. it was formerly an ifland,
which the s^fpedt of the place makes cre-
dible ; the land lies fo low, in the neigh-
bourhood, that the fea covered it, in part,
in Strabo’s time, (i) The city, built on a
rock, which forms an excellent road for
ihipping, was fecure from inundation.

Canopus was named after the pilot of Me-
nelaus, who died there ; (k) his tomb was
to be feen in the age when S. Epiphanius
wrote. The pleaiantnefs of its iituation, ItS'
temple of Serapis, and the cunning of its
priefls, rendered it one of the mod famous
places of pilgrimage in Egypt; multitudes
came there from the mod didant provinces,
and efpecially from Alexandria. Licentiouf-
nefs reigned, during thefe fedivals, and plea-
fure, more than religion, led the pretended
worfliippers of their God thither. The prieds
were not lefs eminent as phyhcians than as
interpreters of the oracle : ikilful in redoring
their exhauded patients by perfumed baths,

(ij Strabo, lib. 17.

(k) Strabo, lib. 17. Diodorus Siculus, S. Epipha*
nius, lib. 4. cap. 3. Thefe authors confirm opi»
nion of Homer, who makes Menelaus land in £g}'pt.
OdylTey, lib. 4.

in

LETTERS

46

in renovating an injured ftomach nutri-
tive and fucculent food mingled with fpices,
and in heating their imaginations by volup*
tuous pi«^ures, they fucceeded in reani-
mating the half loft fenfts. Their cures«
all attributed to Serapis, were regiftered,
and this dazzled the people and encreaftd
their celebrity. Never had Divinity more
adorers ; never had priefts more offerings.
( 1 ) Strabo affirms, the canal, between Alex-
‘ andria and Canopus, was loaded, night and

( 1 ) Canopus contains a temple, dedicated to Serapis,
where diftin^ adoration is paid to this God, in whom
the very bell people have faith. — Some of the pricils are
employed in writing the miraculous cures, performed
there ; others the oracles, which are there pronounced ;
but the thing moll allonilhing is to fee the prodigious con-
courfe of people, who come, from all parts, to the fealls
of Serapis, down the canal’of Alexandria, which is, day
and night, covered with boats, full of men and women,
who ling and dance v.'ith extreme licentioufnefs. Stra-
bo, lib. 17.

Thefe pilgrimages which exilled in the time of Hero-
dotus are ftill continued ; the Pagans went to the tem-
ple of Serapis, the T urks go to the tombs of their fan-
tons, and the Copts to the churches of their faintt-;
all ahapdon them/eJves to mirth, nor has TurkiA gra^
vity aboliflied the wanton fongs and dances which feem
to have originated with the Egyptians.

day.

ON EGYPT.

47

day, with boats, containing pilgrims whoie
fbngs and dances ieemed infpired by libidinous
diibrder, and frantic joy. This canal is at
prefent dry, during one part of the year;
and the ruinous town confifts only of huts,
and a caftle, provided with a few pieces of
artillery, to defend the road.

Faffing the ferry. Madia, we come to a
caravanfary, the foie afylum, againft thdle
burning heats, to be met with during a
journey of fourteen leagues. Beyond lies an
extenfive, barren, plain, where neither ver-
dure, tree, nor ilirub, are leen ; the eyes
are half blinded, by a torrent of light ; the
ikin parched by the fiery fun. Eleven co-
lumns, erefled at proper intervals, direct
the traveller acrofs the defert, where the
wind agitates the fand hills till they refem-
ble the waves of the lea. Woe be to the man
who, in the midll of this defert, is overtaken
by the noon day whirlwind 1 If he has not
a tent to fhelter himfelf, he is overwhelmed
in drifts of burning dull ; which, filling his
eyes and mouth, deprive him of breath
and life. The wifefl; way is to mSlSb this
journey by night; and then, at break of
day, the traveller difcovers the palm dnd

fycamore-

LETTERS

fycamore-trees ( m) which adorn- the banks
of the Nile, and preiently arrives at Ro(etta»
bathed in fweat and dew.

When, after a long abode in the centre of
ruins, and a mod; fatiguing journey, one
finds one’s ielf in the midH; of a pleaiant
city, furrounded with groves and verdure,
how does the foul dilate ! How is it dif>
po^ed to enjoy all the beauties of nature !
Such is the traveller who, quitting Alex-
.>^antjria, comes to inhabit Rofetta : efcaped
all the horrors of the defert, he thinks him-
lelf tranfported into another Eden, where
every objedt is the iymbol of abundance.

Roietta, called Rafirhid by the Arabs,
(lands on the ancient Bolbitine branch, to
which it has given its name. It was found-
ed in the eighth century j (n) the increafing

fand

(m) ’Tha Egyptian fyeamore produces a fig, which
grows on the trunk of the tree, and not at the end of the
branches, and which, though fomewhat dry, is eaten.
This tree becomes exceedingly large, and tufted ; it fel-
dom grows flraighc, but is generally bent, and twifted ;
its branches extending very far, horizontally, afford ex-
cellent*iLt.lter j its leaves are divided, and its wood, im-
pregnated with bitter juice, is not fubjedl to be worm-
eaten. The fyeamore grows feveral ages.

(n) Neither Father Sicard, Pocock, Nieburh, nor
nnv other traveller have fixed the time of the foundation

O N E G Y P T.

49

fand banks of the Nile no longer permitting
ihips to fail as far as Faoua, this new city
was built at, though how two leagues diftant
from, the mouth of the river. Abulfeda
informs us it was an inconfiderable place in
the thirteenth century, (oj nor had it greatly
increaied two hundred years afterwards ; but,
when the Ottomans added Egypt to their
conquefts, they neglected to repair the ca-
nals $ and, that of Faoiia ceafing to be na-
vigable, Rofetta became the ftore-houfc o!P“‘
the merchandize of Alexandria and Cairo.
Trade Toon made it flourilh, and it is now
one of the pleafantefl towns in Egypt. It
fpreads along the weilern bank of the Nile,
and is nearly a league in length, and one

cf Rofiftta. Elmacin, p. 152, informs us it was built
•luring the reign of Elmetouakkel, Caliph of Bagdad,
about the year S70, and under the pontincate of Cofmar,
patriarch of the Jacobines at Alexandria. M. Maillet
allows it to have been built only a hundred years, and
thinks it replaces Canopus. This is an error. Profper
Alpinus has committed the fame fault. *

(0) Rafchid halide ala garbi el Nil el garhi and mefab-
ho fil bahr. Rofetta is a fmall city, built on the weftern
bank of the weilern branch of the Nile, near i wi outh.

Belon, who travelled in Egypt in 1530, fays Rofetta
was fmaller than Faoua : at prefent it is one half larger
than that city.

VoL.l.

E

fourth

L £ T T E R S

5 «

fourth as wide. No remarkable iquare is
ieen here; no ftreet perfectly ftraight; but
the houfest built with terraces* {landing
alunder* and kept in good repair, have a
pleaiing air of neatnefs and elegance. With-
in, they contain vaft apartments, where the
air has free circulation through a great num-
ber of windows, kept always open : the lat-
tices and tranfparent blinds break the fun’s
rays, and thus render the light mild, and
< tamper the excefs of the heat. The only
remarkable public edifices are the mofques,
the lofty minarets of which are built in a
light, bold, ilile, and produce a pidurefque
eife<3;, in a town where the roofs are all Hat,
by throwing variety into the picture. Mofl
of the houfes have a profpedl of the Nile
and the Delta ; a truly magnificent one !
Veflels and boats, fome rowing, Ibme under
fail, continually cover the river ; while the
tumult of the port, the mirth of the ma-
riners, and, their noify muHc, prefent a
fcene ever moving, ever alive. The Delta,
that immenfe garden, where the exhaufllefs
eartl^ils never weary of producing, affords
an eternal view of harvefls, vegetables, flow-
ers, and fruits, in fucceflion ; the abundant

variety

ON EGYPT.

51

variety of which, at once, gladdens the eyes
and the heart. Various fpecies of cucum*
hers, delicious melons, the fig, the orange,
the banana, the pomegranate, all grow here, all-
have here an exquifite flavour. Yet how much
might culture increafe their excellence, did
the Egyptians underfland engrafting.

North of the city are gardens, where ci-
tron, orange, date, and iycampre- trees are
promiicuoufly planted; though this difordet
is negligent, the mingling of the trees, and the
arbours they form, impenetrable to the fun*8
rays, together with the flowers {battered among
them, render thefe groves mod enchanting.

When the atmoiphere is all on fire, when
the big moiflure courfes down every mem-
ber, when gafping man pants after cool air,
as the fick after health, with what ecflacy*
does he go and relpire under thefe bowers,
and befide the rivulet by which they are
watered ! There the Turk, with his long
jafmin pipe wrought with amber, imagines
himfelf tranfported into the garden of delight
which Mahomet promifed : though tlefs, in
tranquil apathy, he fmokes the fun down, void
of defire, void of ambition ; his calm paflions
never call one curious look towards futurity :

E 2 that

5a

LETTERS

that refticfs a<ftivity by which we are tormcn-*
ted* and which is the foul of all our knowledge,
of all our works, is to him unknown ; content
with what he poUeiles, he neither invents
nor brings the inventions of others to per-
fection : his life, to us, feems a long Hum-
ber; ours, to him, one continual Hate of
intoxication ; but, while we are ever pnrfu-
idg happinefs w^hich ever eludes our grafp^
be peaceably enjoys the good that nature
^ves, and each day brings, without trou-
bling himfclf concerning the morrow.

Here, in theie gardens, the young Geor-
gians, Ibid into ilavery by barbarous parents,
quit, with the veil which covers them, that
decency they oblervc in public. Freed her©^
from all conftraint, they caufe lafcivious dances
to be performed in their prelence, Hng ten-
der fongs, and relate tales, and romances,
which prefent an undilguiled picture of their
manners, and pleafures. Born in a tempe-
rate climate, they receive from nature a foul
of energy, and tumultuous paHions ; brought
afterwards into Egypt, the fire of the at-
moljH^Sre, the perfume of the orange flower,
and the emanations of aromatic plants, vo-
luptuoufly invade every fenfe : then does

one

ON EGYPT.

53

one ible care employ, one fble defire torment,
them ; one only predominant want is felt ;
the violence of which is encreafed by the
reflraint under which they are kept.

The principal wealth of Roletta flows from
commerce. The tranfportation of foreign
merchandize to Cairo, and of the productions
of Egypt to the port of Alexandria, gives
employment to a great number of mariners ,
their veiiels are called feherms i fp) z. light
kind of boats, with lateen> fails, and which,
having no deck, are very hazardous ; a guft
of wind, coming unexpectedly, turns them
on their fide, and they founder. The Bo~
gaZf (q) for fb they call the bar at the
mouth of the Nile, is a dangerous flioal fpr
them I the waters here drive and ftruggle
to find paflfage into the fea, and, when the
wind frefhens, the waves run mountain-
high, forming whirlpools, which engulph
vefiels. The Bogaz is fhallow, and, in the
extent of a league, there is feldom more than

(p) Scherm, expreiles thefwiftnefs with which thefe
fmall vefTels ikim the waves; the Tailors of*^R>vencc
call them, by corruption, germe.

(q) The word, Bogaz, is deferiptive of the agitation
of the waves.

E 3 a paflfags

5 +

letters

a paiTage of (bme few fathoms for the veflels»
which is continually changing: a boatman*
or pilot, keeps founding, night and day, to
diredt the mariners what courfe they mufi
fleer, who often are incapable, with all their
art, to cope with the winds and waves j they
mifs the pafTage, get on a fand bank, and,
in a few minutes, all is fwallowed up in
a vortex of water and mud. Numerous
fhipwrecks happen every year j there have
iicen feveral fince 1 have been here. A large
boat, richly laden, perifhed yeflerday, on the
bogaz ; the paflengers leapt into the water ;
an old and feeble man clung to the mafl,
and difappeared with it ; three young girls,
after long flruggling with the waves and
current, were fwallowed up ; two robufl fai-
lors got afhore 3 a woman of thirty, who had
tied a child fhe fuckled round her with her
fafh, fwam vigoroufly j the defire of faving
her infant gave her fortitude ; yet, after an
hour's contention, againfl the violence of the
fea, this aife^ionate mother was on the
point of p^iihing, the yidtim of maternal
love 5 ‘ ;:lie boatmen, however, perceived her^
plunged into the Nile and haflened to her
afnflance ; ^nt with fatigue, fhe fi;arcel7

could

ON EGYPT.

55

could keep herfelf above water; but they
fwam bedde^ fupported, and happily brought
her on (hore. Thefe melancholy icenes are
frequently renewed.

The bar of -the Nile is tol^ly doled, two
months in the year, and the commerce of
Alexandria interrupted; but, were it to be-
come totally impaflable, and were all the
Ihipping of Egypt to be fwallowed up, tie
Ottoman government would not remove one
foot of earth from the canal of Faoua, to
render it navigable. Committed to their
care, every thing perilhes, nothing is ft*

I have many more things. Sir, to tell you
concerning Rofetta ; but, as 1 lhall prolong
my ftay in this city, I lhall wait till obler*
vation, and the focieQr of its inhabitants,
lhall have ftiU better enabled me to ezecutt
my talk.

I have the honour to be,

56

LETTERS

LETTER IV.

Further remarks on "Rofetta, its foundation',
commerce, inhabitants, and gardens', ‘with
an account of the procejjion (f the Pffiii, or
Jerpent- eaters.

To M. L. M.

Rofetta.

R O SETT A, Sir, may well excite the
curiofity of a European, who lees fo many
new objects that he imagines himfelf tran-,
iported into another world: men and na-
ture, all he beholds is changed. A dead
faience reigns throughout the city, ur4!nter-
riipted by the. noifc of carriage ; camels are
the carriers here ', nothing alters or dilturbs
the grave walk of the inhabitants : their
long garments float down to their heels ; the
head is loaded v/ith a heavy turban, or en-
circled by a fhawl; (r) they cut their hair
p£f, and let their beards grow. Salhes arc
^mn[\on. to both fexes i the citizen is armed

(r) They wind the fhawl, fometimes made of filk,
and fometimes of vrooly in a long piece, round the head.

with

o N E G Y P T. 57

V^Ith a knife, the foldier with a fabre, and
two piftols. The women of low rank, whole
plothing confills of an ample blue Ihift, and
long drawers, cover their faces with a bit
of cloth, having holes oppoiite the eyes;
the rich wear a large white veil, with a black
filk mantle, enveloping the body like a do-
mino, fo that one would think them in maf-
querade. A ftranger Icarcely dares look at
them, to {peak would be a crime ; but thele
mafks are liberal of their ligns, and oglings';
and, as this is the only language they arc
permitted to ule in public, it is more ex-
preilive^ more copious, and in much higher
perfedtion than in Europe: every thing is
faid, every thing is wonderfully well undcrr
ilood, without opening the lips.

The country is as di^erent from the neigh-
bourhood of Paris as is Rofetta from a
town in France. An immenle flat, without
bill or mountain, interfedted by innume-
rable canals ; corn fields branching fyca.
mores, whole unperiihable wood preferves
the mud- wall hut into whicli the hulband.
man retires during winter, for lie*«fleeps
under the fliade in fummer; date-trees in
clufters, or Mattered over the plain, the pro-
fuse

BETTERS

’58

faih ffuit of which is nutritive, fweet, and
£dutary s the caffia, with flexible branches,
decked in yellow flowers, and bearing a pod
well known in Pharmacy; f'sj orange, and
citron-^trces unmutilated by the pruning knife,
whole proje<^ing odoriferous boughs form
arbours impenetrable by the fun’s rays ;
fuch. Sir, are the objedis of the Delta, and
fuch its principal trees and flirubs. Win-
ter does not rob them of their foliage, they
are apparelled all the year as if every month
were May.

The land is a black foil, the fertility of
which feems inexhauflible ; ever produ<5)ive
and never fallow. The huibandmen have
been preparing the rice grounds. Oxen,
blindfolded, turn a machine, with buck-
ets which empty water into a balbn,
whence it is diflTufed over the fields, where it
is left to remrin a week : when die earth is
thoroughly .ibaked, men, women, and chil-
dren, naked up to the wafte, walk and fink

(s) This pod leleinbles a long, final!, cucumber,
and cphlains the caffia u(ed in Pharmacy; the caffia
of Egypt is much preferable to that of America, but, be-
ing dearer, is negle^d by the druggifts* The Egyp-
tians ufe the ca^ flower as a laxative,

deep

O K E G Y P T. 59

deep into the mud, and eafily free the land
from the old roots. This work done, rice of
a foot high is tranfplanted into the rice bed,
ftj where, watered every day, its rapid
growth is aftonidiing. The grounds, on the
banks of the Nile, and the canals, are plant-
ed about the end of July, and reaped in No-
vember ; the fheaves are ipread on the floor ;
a kind of low cart, with cutting wheels^
drawn by two oxen, is driven, by> man feated
on it, over the rice, and the ftraw is fepa-
rated from the grain, which is afterwards
winnowed 5 it is next carried to granaries,
where there is a mill that frees it from the
hufk ; and, thus prepared, it is mixed with
falt^ and enclofed in Couffes, (uj made front
the leaves of the date-tree.

The rice grown round Rofetta is known by
the name Sultani, and it is a miftake to fup-
pofe this rice is ever fent to Marfeilles ; be-
ing appropriated to the ufe and confumption
of Conftantinople, there are very rigorous
laws which prohibit its exportation. The

( t) The word rice comes from the Arabic

(u) The word eoufft is Arabic, and fignifies the oval
panniers, made of date-tree leaves^ in which the rice is
enclofed.

merchants

6o

LETTERS

merchants of Provence take in their cargoes
at Damietta.

As foon as the rice is down, the bubble is
torn up, the land dightly dreded, and barley
is Town, which prefently ripens. Thofe who
prefer a crop of hay inundate the field, and
ibw it with lucerne, (x) which grows fo faft
that, in twenty days, it is a foot and a half
high, and fo thick that its furface appears
one folid verdure. It is three times cut before
the feafon of tranfplanting the rice ; thus, the
iame field will either yield two crops, of
grain, one of rice, the other of barley, or
four, one of rice and three of hay. This
fecundity is, however, peculiar to the Delta ;
where the land, lying lower than in the The-
bais, may be watered all the year, by means
of the canals and machines above-mentioned.

Roietta has a manufadlory of cloth : the
fiax of the country, long, flexible, and filky,
would make exceedingly fine linen, did they
know how to work it 5 but the Ipinners are
very inexpert ; their thread is coarfe, hard,
and unequal. The cloth bleached in the

(x) The Arabs call it Barjim^ it is the only hay
known in Egypt.

dew

6t

ON EGYPT.

dew 5s for table linen ; the reft, dyed blue,
clothes the common people.

One of my walks, round Rofetta, was to
fee the caftle built by the Mamiuks, to de-
fend the palTage of the river. This is a Iquare
building, flanked with four towers, containing
artillery ; and ftands a league north of the
town, on the weftern bank of the Nile. Front-
ing it is a platform furniihed with cannon 5 and
thefe two forts, inconiiderable as they are,
would be fufficient to impede the entrance of
ihips, if the Turks underftood gunner3% Here
however they are fafc ; Nature has been care-
ful to defend the mouth of the Nile, by
throwing up a dangerous bar, the terror of
mariners s it w^ould even be impoflible for
gun-boats to pais it, did not the boatmen
of the bogaz ferve them as pilots.

South of the city, on the bank of the.
Nile, is a fmall eminence, in the midft of
which, an antique tower, half buried, raifes
its head. A large femicircular bafon, beneath,
indicates a harbour, at prefen t filled up. Some
years ago, a Turkifti merchant, by caufing
part of the rubbifti to be removeS, found
twenty beautiful marble columns : this was
to him an unfortunate dilcovery. The Beys,

thinking

62 LETTERS

thinking he had carried concealed trea->
fares, pillaged him of his wealth. None of
the learned, Isrho have viiitCd Egypt, have
endeavoured to dilcover what city could have
been built here, (y) M. D*Anville fuipefls
the ancient Bolbitinum might have flood not
far from the place where Rofetta is built ; and
he was not deceived, for the ruins I defcribe
are near this city, and can only appertain to
Bolbitinum^ mentioned by Stephanas Byzanti-
xfiis; which town gave its name to one of
the mouths of the Nile.

This is a mod pi&urefque place ; the ruin-
ous tower is furrounded by tombs ; on the
wed is a defert plain, over the burning ex-
tent of which one cannot glance without
fhuddering s the flooding light, reflected from
the fands, pains the fight, and the pidlure of
flerility fills the mind with melancholy. But
turn to the eafl and how wonderful the con-

{yj Neither Niebuhr, Shaw, Pocockc, nor Father
Sicard, mention it. Maillet, who was an cxa^ ob-
ferver, remarks there had been an ancient city in this
place, which, he fuppofed, might have been Canopus ;
but theilte of Canopus is fo perfectly deferibed, by Stra-
bo, Pliny, Diodorus Siculus, &c. that there can be no
doubt it flood where Alboukir now flands.

trad 1

ON EGYPT.

€3

traft! Ho^ charming the view ! Here the
majeftic river is covered with boats, and the
Delta with ail the graces of Ipring, the beau-
ties of fuoimer, and the profule richneis of
autumn ; as far as *he eye can fee are ver-
dure, fruits, and corn fields. Is not this the
pidture of that Eden where the Creator placed
the firft of mortals ?

You are acquainted with the Pfylli, thole
celebrated ferpent-eaters of antiquity, who
fported with the bite of vipers and the cre-
dulity of the people. Many of them in-
habited Cyrene, a city weft of Alexandria,
and formerly dependent on Egypt. You
know the pitiful vanity of Odtavius, who
wiftied the captive Cleopatra Ihould grace his
triumphal car ; and, chagrined to fee that
proud woman efcape by death, commanded
one of the Pfylli to fuck the wound, the af-
pic had made. Fruitlefs were his efforts ; the
poifon had pervaded tht whole mafs of blood,
nor could the art of the Plylli reftore her to life.
Would you fuppoie. Sir, thefe ferpent-caters
ftill exift r I myfelf am a witnefs the^ do, as
you lhall hear.

The

64 L E T I* E R S

I

The feftival of S/W/ Ibrahim (:t) was kft
week held at Rofetta^ and drew a vaft con-
courfe of people. A Turk permitted me to
fee the proceffion from his houfe, where, feat-
cd at the window, I obferved this novel fight
with attention. The different trades gravely
marched in files, each preceded by its banner ;
t{ie flandard of Mahomet borne in triumph
followed, and attracted a prodigious croud ;
all were defirous to touch, kifs, or put it to
their eyes, and thofc who obtained this fa-
vour, returned fatisfied ; the tumult was re-
newed incelfantly. After this came the
Cheiks, priefts of the country, wearing lea-
ther-caps in the form of a mitre, and fing-
ing, as they flowly walked, the hymns of the
Koran A few paces behind them I perceiv-
ed a company of men, apparently frantic, with
naked arms, wild eyes, and enormous fcr-
pents in their hands, which twined round
their bodies, and eifdeavoured to efcape.

(aj Our Lard Abraham. The Arabs, being dcrccnd*
ants of Abraham, from lihmacl, hold him in great vene-
ration, and keep an annual feilival in his honour.

Thefc

ON EGYPT.

65

Tbefe Piylli, (a) feizing them forcibly by
the neck, avoided their bite, and^ regardleifs
of their hi^s, tore them with their teeth
and ent them alive, while the blood ftreamed
from their defiled mouths ; other Pfylli ftrug-
gled with them, to force away their prey ;
the contention was who Ihould devour a liv-
ing lerpent.

The ailonillied populace followed, and
cried — A miracle 1 They fuppoied thefe peo-
ple infpired, and pofiefied by a ipirit, which
defiroyed the eifedts of the bite of ierpents.
The delcription I have fent you is exa<^ ;
the fight firfi; terrified me, and afterwards
led me to refie£l on man, that firange crea-
ture, to whom poilbn becomes food ; that
credulous being, who, blinded by his igno-
rance, cannot detedb a fraud which is annu-
ally pradtifed, but is prompted to worlhip
one of his own ipecies, who has art fufii-
cient to deceive him. You perceive. Sir,

(aj The Pfylli, men of Cyrene, poflefled a fecret
againft the poifon of ferpents. Strabo, lib. 17.

Perhaps, by feeding on their fieih, they deflroyed the
effedt of their bite.

VoL. !•

F

ancient

66

LETTERS

ancient ufages are not loft» in a country
where that tyrant, cuftom, has particularly
created his altars and his throne.

1 have the honour to be, &c .

LET

ON EGYPT.

67

LETTER V.

Voyage from Rfetta to Boulac. Obfervatiom
on the manner of navigating the Nile^ on the
canals cut from it, the towns, villages and
hamlets, built on their banks, the productions
and cultivation of the country, and the cif
toms of the inhabitants*

To M. L. M.

Rofctta, O^. ift, 1777.

A N D now. Sir, be pleafed to imagine me
on board a mach, that is to fay a large
two mailed boat with an agreeable cabin,
and a fmaller one hung with mats curiouily
worked. A tent on the deck (hades me from
the fun*s heat, and, thus feated, from this
charming profpedt will I endeavour to trace
objeiSts as they rife to view. It is now one
o’clock, the anchor is weighed, the fail fwells
and the north wind, which blows without
intermiilion at this feafon of the yefii*, with
eafc carries us againil the current ; briikly
we cut the waves which whiten on the prow

F 2 of

6S LETTERS

•

of our fmall veHcl. The high minarets of
Rofetta diminifh, and every moment new and
delightful views fix our attention. The
ihores of the Nile abound in reeds, the
plains with corn; the rice is maturing for
the fickle, and the wind, agitating its pliant
furface, makes it relemble the waving mo-
tion of the fea ; the hufhandman, tvhole care
it is to water the harvefi, opens the fluices, or
clefts tire dams at pleafure ; the ox turns the
ndify creaking wheel which raifes the waters ;
difiant cots and hamlets rife, and now and
then a few houles of bricks, fun-dried ; and
now we behold a fmall mofque, with its mi-
naret by turns concealed and feen among the
tall trees, furrounded by the orange, the
palm, and fyeamore, every ebjeft feems to
fpring from the bolbm of profufion and ver-
dure ! We have already various villages,
and an ifiand, on the banks of which water
melons grow ; of thefe we have made ample
provifion, for it is impofilble to be fatiated
with them. Nurtured in a rich foil and
ripened by a penetrating fun, here, amid
thefe heats, their melting fweetnefs is moft
delicious ; and, what encreales their value,
mofi healthy ; they may be eaten to excels,

without

ON£GY?T. ^

without danger or inconvenience. The ifland
where we dbtained them lies between the
villages Berimbal and MebaUet el Emir,

Yonder we perceive a branching canal,
which, quitting the Nile, goes probably and
difcharges its waters in the lake Rebira,
through which there is a pafTage to Canopus ;
and now we arrive at Deyrout, a charming
village on the weftern bank of the Nile. —
The fun declines, and his departing rays
gild the towering minarets of Faoiia, of which
we have a twilight glimpfe ; we ihall remain
all night within fight of this city.

From on boards 0<A. ad.

Faoiia is fallen from its ancient greatnefs ;
in the time of Belon (b) it was fecond on-
ly to Grand Cairo. The Venetians kept a
Conful there, and merchandife was brought
thither up the canal that leads to Alexandria;
but, this being no longer navigable, Roietta

(h) We have before /aid Belon vifited Egypt in the
fifteenth century, about fifteen years after the Ottoman
conquefi. This natural ift traverfed the greatbft gart of
the £aft, ana imported various exotics into France. To
him we are indebted for the evergreen oak, which, in the
depth of winter, preferves a faint image of fpring.

F 3

is

70

LETTERS

is now become flourifhing, and Faoiia has
Joft, with its commerce, the fource of its
iplendor. I have taken a hafly furvey of it,
attended by the Janiilary w'ho accompanies
me. Large ruinous buildings ; iquares, load-
ed with rubbilh ; brick houfes, out of re-
pair, many mofques, deprived of all orna-
ment $ but few inhabitants, and thofe poor ;
fuch are the melancholy remains of this ce-
lebrated city of the Milefians. f'cj Built in
the neighbourhood of Canopus, and fome-
what infected by the fame immorality, the
inhabitants permit proilitutes to live in a pub-
lic Kan, and wink at their diforders. They
intercept palTengers, before whom they ling
and dance, after the manner of their country :
nothing can be more licentious than their
fong>, or more lafcivious tlian their looks
and gellures. In the neighbourhood of this
city Hood Naucratis, which alfo was founded
by the Milchans,

From on board, 03. 3 d.

The ever favourable north wind has fore-
run the dawn, and the mariners have un-
furleid their fails } and now with cafe we cut the

1 obferved, in ray firft letter, that it was the Mile-
fians who built the city atprefent called Faoua.

rapid

O N E G Y P t. yi

rapid current, have already pad ieveral iilanda,
almoft under water ; and hamlets of which
we caught an occafional glance, amidd the
luxuriant verdure ; already we are five miles
from Faoua, oppofite the mouth of the canal
dug by Alexander, and which the negligence
of the Turks has fudered to be in part filled up.
Four leagues down its dream dands the little
town of Damanbourt inhabited by Copts and
Mahometans, which is the Hermopolis Parva
defcribed by Ptolomy, Strabo places it befide
the river, but we mud underdand by this the
canal of Alexandria. Abulfeda has precifely
marked its fcite. (dj The neighbouring lands
produce much flax, wheat, barley and cotton,
which is an annual plant.

As we advance we fee multitudes of boats,
ibme gliding with, and others ploughing
againd the dream i we hear the rude and

(dj Damanhour is a town of Egypt to the South-eaft
of Alexandria, near the canal which runs thither ; it is
the capital of Behira^ and is called Damanbour of the
defert. (*} Oua men balad mafr Damanhour. Oua hie
fi-l-fhark, oua-l-gcnoub en £lefcanderi£. Oua hie caadat
elbehire. Oua leha Kalig Elcfcandcrie. Oua taaref Da*
manhour el ouaehelh. Abulfeda Dcfcription of £g}rpt.

{*) So called to diftinguiih it from two towns of thelame name,
it being not far from the defart in which are the lakes of
Natroun.

F 4 noify

I- E T T E R S

1 }

noify muiic of the mariners* who mingle their
hoaifc voices with the tambour de bafque
and the artlefs reed flute. Thefe concerts
ch;irni not the ear* yet do they inipire the
heart with gladnefs. And now herds of oxen
low in the meadows ; the hufbandmen peo-
ple the plain to water their harveilsj the
maidens come from the villages* to wafh their
linen and draw water j they drefs themfelves
hefide the flream ; their pitchers and their
clothing lie fcattered on the bank; they
rub their bodies with the mire of the Nile,
plunge into It* and fport among its waves.
Several of them came fwimming round our
boat* and crying ya ^di at maydi: Give me
a medin. Sir. (e) They fwim with grace*
and their hair* knotted in trefles, doats upon
their fli .)ulders ; their ikins are of a fwarthy
dark brown, but, in general they are ex-
ceedingly well formed* and the cafe with
which they fwim* againf^ the rapid ftream,
is a proof of the force and agility w'hich ex-
ercife will bellow* on the mofl delicate bo«

dies. Tbps the beauteous Nauficaa* (f) hav-
«

(e) 'The medin is a fmall piece of plated copper
worth three farthings.

(f) Odyffey, book the 6th.

ON EGYPT.

73

ing washed her garments, bathed with her
companions, when Ulyfles unexpediedly (lood
naked before them, (g)

The wind freshens, and our bark fwiftly
cuts the tide ; the tortuous courfe of the Nile
every moment preients us a new profpedt $
here a village lofing itfelf in the diftant ho-
rizon, there a town, with a nx)fque and a
grove of orange trees growing by its fide;
and every where dove houfes, of a pyramidal
form, in which innumerable flocks of pigeons
are afiembled. Fed on thele fertile plains,

(g) Ulyfles was fhipwrecked on the Pheacian coafl,
where, overcome with fatigue, he ilept, among the brakes,
on a bed of flowers ; thither Nauficaa and her compa-
nions came, to walh their garments in the river, and,
having bathe<l, amufed themfelves with throwing ftones,
one of them fell near Ulyiles, who awaking, ran to the
place whence the found of voices proceeded. At the
light of a man, who had no other covering than the bough
of a tree, the female flaves all fled, but the daughter of
Aiciuoiis remained. With dignity Ihe liftened to the
unfortunate iiianger, gave him confolation, recalled her
maidens, comuianded them to walh and clothe him, in a
tunic ^nd a mantle. The poet has painted, with admir-
able art, in the perfon of Nauficaa, the nobie dignity
of birth and virtue, who, certain of herfelf, fled not at
the light of a naked man, and whom, being probably
wretched, ihe might fuccour.'

they

74

LETTERS

they arc plump and delicate, and only coil
three medins a couple: the inhabitants
manure their plantations of water melons
with their dung. Night draws on, and each
takes to his arms; for the Nile fwarms with
pirates, who attack boats, under favour of the
darknefs, adaffinate pallengers, who are off
^eir guard, and feize their efledls. We
have call anchor $ the mafter colledts his crew,
and, with a grave deportment, relates mar-
vellous tales ; to which his circular audience
lillens with hlent attention.

From on board, Od. 4.

We have lain all night between a fmall
ifland and the mouth of the canal of Menouf,
which communicates with both branches
of the Nile, this of Rofetta, and the other
of Damietta, and obliquely interfe<fl;s the.
Delta. It is fifteen leagues long, very wide,
and navigable three months in the year.
Four leagues down the ftream, on its bank^
is the pleafant city of Menouf j the ca-

pital of the province and the refidence of the

The Delta is divided into two provinces, in
which two Beys refide. Menouf is the capital of the
upper, and Mehala el Kebira of the lower 3 the firfi is
called Menoufia, the latter Garbia.

Bey.

O N E G Y F T.

75

Bey. It (lands in the midil of fertile HeJdss
{own with wheat, beans, bamier, ('/J and
dourra; (haded by groves of tamarind
and date-trees, and inhabited by flights of
pigeons, which, never hearing the terrifying
cxplofion of powder, are as gentle as our
domeflic doves.

By break of day the north wind had filled
our fails, and we coafled among ides, the
grafs of which growls exceedingly high, and
ferves as pafturage for buffaloes. The hcrdf-
man, feated on the withers of the foremod,
defcends the banks of the river, fmacks his
whip, and leads the way^ the whole herd
follow, and lowing fwim to pafture, • blow-
ing the water from their large noflrils.
During the fummer heats they live in the

The bamier bears a pyramidal pod, in leveral
divilions, of a citron colour, and full of Ipicy feed.
When cooked with meat, this pod is very wholefome
food, and very agreeable to the tafie. The Egyptians
are liberal of it in their ragouts.

The Dourroy or Indian millet, is a tall plant with
a reedy leaf ; it bears a pod that contains much grain,
of which the hufbandmen make bread. TouRiefort calls
it. Milium arundinacevm piano alboque femine : Linnaeus,
hql(ut dora glumis villojis feminibus comprejjis ariftatis.

Nile,

LETTER S

76

Nilc> lying among the waters up to the
neck, and feeding on the tender herb that
grows upon its banks. The cows yield
abundance of rich milk, of which the inha-
bitants make excellent butter.

Our view is bounded, on the Ibuth, by a
grove of dates and fycamores, behind which
the lofty minarets of Terrana appear. This
little town, built on the weft of the Nile, is
but eight leagues from the monaftery of St.
Macarius. Hither the natroun is brought,
which is obtained from two lakes and much
uied by the Egyptians. Some miles higher,
among the ihade of palm-trees, we fee the
fir.all port of Ouardan 5 where Father Sicard
burnt heaps of ancient manufcripts, depoiited
in a dove-houfe, pretending they were books
of magic. (IJ Thus, in a moment, blind fa-*
naticilin deftroys the treafures of ages.

The following paflage is from Father Sicard. “t
** wasinformed that a dove-houfe, in this village, was fil-
** led with papeis, containing magic charaAcrs, bought of
** fome religious Copts, and Schifmatics : I performed
** my duty, without refiftance, and ersded the Jerufa-
“ Icm crucifix, which the Copts revere, with great de-
votion, in their ftcad.’* Lettres Edifantesy page 53.
By this it appears be there burnt thcfe manufcripts, frill
of hieroglyphic characters.

The

77

ON EGYPT.

The fun has half riin his courfe ; we have
left Ouardan on our right, and, if the wind
continues, fliall reach Boulac to-day. Not
a village we pafs but we fee the children, of
both (exes, exercihng themlelves by fwim-
ming: they daub themfclves with mud,
plunge into the water, and land but to dive
again. Swimming is here the plcafure of
neceffity. Egypt being every where inter*
(edled by large and deep canals, which are
full of water in the time of inundation; it is
often necedary to crois fcveral of them, in go-
ing from one town to another ; and, on
thefe occaiions, men and women ilrip them-
felves of their light clothing, their Ihirts
and drawers, tie them like turbans round
the head, and betake themlelves to fwim-
ming. A European is furprized to fee the
females preferving a fmall morfel of cloth
to cover only their faces : a Turk could
eahly explain this phaenomenon.

We are arrived at the angle of the Delta
where the Nile feparates, and where it is
two miles wide ; the Arabs call ^his part
of it ^afn el Bakara ; the Cow’s Belly. * And
now, for the iirft time, we perceive the
tops of the two great pyramids, which are

eight

78 LETTtHS

eight leagues diftaot, and are gilded by the
Hays of the fetting fun : they relemble two
pointed mountains, loft in the clouds. Hail
to thefe monuments, the moft ancient of the
works of men ! The very fight inlpirea
religious awe ! How many generations have
pafied away fince thelb enormous piles have
ftood at the foot of that mountain where
they ftill remain ! The fliades of night en-
velop them ; and our failors, now near the
end of their voyage, make the air refound
with their riotous joy; they light up the
lanthorn, which is to orevent the veflel from
being run down,- and perhaps funk, by the
innumerable boats which pafs and repafs, and
we are riding in the midft of an ever varying
illumination. It is now eleven o’clock, and
we have call anchor before Boulac, the port
of Grand Cairo.

LET-

ON EGYPT.

79

LETTER VI.

Grand Cairo, the capital of Egypt, defer ibed ;
enquiries concerning its foundation, with
proofs from the mofi authentic Arabian
writers^

To M. li. M.

I HAVE now been nine months an inha>
bitant of Grand Cairo, that immenfe city,,
where Europeans crouch in the dufl, and
where the name of Frank is opprobrious.
(m) There the fanatic laws of Mahomet
reign triumphant, and the MuiTulman, funk
in ignorance, imagines himfelf the mod: fu*
blime of beings : with iecret fatisfa<^on he
applies to himielf the following texts :

** You are the people on earth moft ex-
** cellent; your laws ordain equity, forbid
** crimes, and you believe in God.**

** The Chridians, unbelieving Jews, and

{tn) The moft reproachful epithet aa Egyptian can
life is the word Frank, which is the general denomina-
tion for Europeans.

idolaters.

t6 LETfER^

** idolaters, are the mo{|^perverle of men ;
** but the faithful, who praftiie virtue, are
.** the mod perfedl work of Heaven.” (n )

This oracle, which no one is ib incredu-
lous as to difpute, feeds their pride, and
they tread under foot all who are not of
their faith. To avoid being infulted by
the populace, and accomplidi the purport
of my voyage, I have alTumed the habit
and manners of a Turk; my tanned ikin
is become Egyptian ; a lhawl, bound round
my head, conceals my hair, and long whif-
kers {hade my cheeks. Thanks to this me^
tamorphoiis, and the eafe with which I
{peak Arabic, 1 unmole{led walk the (Ireets
of this city, and its environs ; and live fa-
miliar with its ftrange inhabitants. Curio-
lity often leads me beyond the limits of pru-
dence, but the voice of rcafon is feeble where
an imperious paihon rules. To this paflion,
however, you arc indebted for delcriptions,
which will, at leail, poilefs the merit of
being exadt.

Grand Cairo is a modern built city ; this
is proved, beyond all doubt, by the writings

Koran.

of

8r

O EGYPT.

ctfthe Oriental hiftprians. 1 will cite their
own words ; tor, "when we Ipeak of their
times, they themielves can certainly afibrd us
the bed: information.

** In the year 358 of the Hegyra, fo)
** yauhar. General of Moax, and defcendaat
of the princes of Kirouan, entered Egypt,
at the head of a formidable army, and
conquered it from the Abadides. (p) From
** that time, the prayers were read in the
name of the Fatimites. (q) The con-
** queror, wanting a place in which to
** edablilh his foldiers, laid the foundations
** of Elkahera, (r) built a palace for the

(0) Elmacin, page 222.

(p) The caliphs of Bagdad, flumbering upon the
throne, were fucceffively ftripped of their vaft domi-
nions, by their governors ; till, of a power which made
the whole world tremble, nothing remained, except the
title, and the barren privilege of being named firftac
prayers, in all the mofques. The conqueil; of Moaz
deprived them of that honour, which was not rcilored to
them till 207 years after, when Salah Eddin, of the fa-
mily of the Ayoubites, feized on Egypt.

(q) The Fatimite caliphs derive their origin from Ali,
who clpyufed Fatima, the daughter of Mahoritfet. In the
year 296 of the Hegyra, they founded a kingdom, on the
eoall of Africa ;■ where they reigned till the year 567.

{fj The city the Europeans call Grand Cairo.

VoL. I, G ** Emperor,

S2

LETTERS

** Emperor, and commanded tibe nobility
** and army to inhabit tA new city. Four
** years after this, Moaz forfbok his king*
** dom, in Barbary, and came to enjoy his
** conqueft. This year the building of Grand
Cairo was completed, and the dominion
** of the Fatimites rendered permanent.”

Moaz, in a mandate to his fon, has the
following words. ** At the moment this
** city was founded, the planet Mars was in
** afcenfion ; and it is Mars who conquers
the univerle ; (s) therefore have I given it
the name of Elkahera.” f t) The founda-
tion of Grand Cairo has been a fubje^ of
difpute, and error, among travellers, and
learned men ; (u) permit me, therefore. Sir,
to add, to the teftimony of Eltnacin, the de-

icription

(s) The excavations were dug, which furrounded the
city ; materials were prepared ; the allronomers, with
mathematical inllrumeiits, obferved the afcent of Mars ;
at the proper moment, the lignal was given, 'and the
foundation of Elkahera was laid, with 0iouts of joy.

(t) The word Elkahera is the name of the planet
Mars } and. likewife figntiies vi^orious.

(u} Proiper Alpinus fays, Grand Cairo is the city
** which the ancients called Memphis.** Voyage d^Egypte^
page 17.

Father Sicard pretends Grand Cairo was built by

Ebn

OH EGYPT.

*3

Icription of Abulfcda. (x) This writer, fa-
mous both as a Jbographer and hiftorian,
has bequeathed us many intereiling particu-
lars no where elie to be found.

Behde Foftat, (y) ^ little to the norths
Hands the city of Elkahera, built by the
Fatimite caliphs. Thefe princes, who had
** founded an empire on the coaH of Bar-
“ bary, became maHers of Egypt. The
•* firft conqueror who reigned there was

£bn el Aas,* the lieutenant of Omar. Lettres Edifiantes^
page 466.

The paflages I have cited are fufficient to refute thefe
European writers ; whofe opinion, void of proof, is con-
tradi£lory to all Oriental hiftory.

(x) ** Oua ala janeb el Foftat men ihamaliha, medi-
net elkahera, ahedlha elkolfa elf:?.temioun Ellazin Za>
** harou Belgarb, tom melekou el mafr ; oua kan aoual
men melek menhom bemafr Moaz ebn Elmanfor—
** Oua akhtat elkahera fi fend teflaa oua khamiln, oua
** talat mai'at; oua canet elkahera biftanlebe, tailoun,
alaelcarb men medinet melkhom elmaroufe belcatai'ah ^
«< oua fepiet elkahera I’eltefaoual ai ickhor men khalef
** amrha ; oua elkahera leift ala ihatt el Nil, belfi
**fliarkio} oua el Foftat ala hafat el Nil} oUa hie
** mahatt, ou acllaa lelmarakeb, oua befabab Zalek far
** el Foftat adfcar rezca, oua arkas afaara men*«Ikahera.**

Abu^edttS Defcriptitm of MgypU
Cy) Foftat is the city which we improperly call Old
Cftvrp.

Moaz,

G z

Sjf, LETTERS

** foundation of Cairo, in the year ^jp of
“ the Hegyra. — The ground on which it
«« was built was a garden, belonging to the
** fon of Toulon, /'z^ which flood be-
fide the royal quarter of Catayah, ("aj
“ in which he refided. This new city was
** named Elkahera, as predi<Sivc of the con-
** quefls it fiiould hereafter obtain over its
enemies. It is not, like Foftat, fituated
*' befide the river Nile, but a little to the
** eaft ; for which reafon the latter is bell
** adapted to trade 5 boats come up to it

(z ) Toulon, a famous governor of Egypt, rebelled
againft Abou Elabbas, the fon of Elmctouakkel, the
fifteenth caliph of the Abaflides, in the year 264 of the
Hegyra, and made himfelf mafter of the country, over
which his defeendants reigned till the year 292, when,
being vanquilhed by Mahommed, general of Mo£tefi
Bellah, the feventeenth caliph of the Abaffides, they
were brought to Bagdad. Elmacin.

(a) Toulon built a fuburb, on the north ofFotiat, fo
large that they called it the royal city of Catayah.
This fuburb is now included in Grand Cairo, and flill
contains a magnificent mofque, which this prince
caufed tq^bc built, as well as the palace he inhabited,
which is at prefent known by the name of Calaa elka«
beck.

from

o N E G Y P T. Si

** from bU Egypt, and providons are cjc-
** ceedingly cheap there.”

Abulfeda, and experience, both, tell us
the fituation of Grand Cairo is not ib advan-
tageous as that of Foftat ; nor is its did-
ancc from the Nile the only difadvantage
felt there : the deril chain of mountains, .
called Mokattam, totally void of verdure,
prefenting a prolpedt of arid fand, and dones
calcined by the fun, are on its ead ; and,
when the north wind does not blow, refledfc
a fudbcating heat on the city ; the inhabi-
tants breathe a burning air, and are obliged
to wait till night for refrelhing coolnefs.
For this lealbn, it was long before any
thing was to be feen where Cairo now dands
but gardens, pleafure houies, and barracks for
the troops ; it owes its fudden increale to an
incident, which 1 fhall relate with pleafure,
becaufe it affedts our own hidory. The
French, under the command of king Ludg-
nan, extended their conqueds over Syria, and
carried their victorious arms as far as Egypt.
In the year 564 of the they

« took

(h) Oua fi sen4 arba oua fettin oua khamse maiat
elfrztigi melekou belbes, oua nahabouha, oua catalou
G 3 “ ahelha

86

LETTERS

** took BeJbeis by aBkiilt, put a part of the
** inhabitants to the {word, and led the reft
captive. Elated with fucceft, they inarched
** toward^ and feized on, Cairo. Shaouar,
** king of Egypt, Cet hre to Foftat, fearing
** it would fall into their hands, and the
flames ipread fo rapidly that the city
*• burnt during four and fifty days. Unable
** to repel, by fo^ce, his enterprizing ene-
mies, this feeble prince had recourfe to
** artifice ; he gave them a hundred thoufand
** dinars (crowns of gold) and promifed them
** a million, on condition they would retire j
they did fo, and loft their conqueft and
“ the promifed fum.”

By the diiafter of Foftat, Grand Cairo be>
came enriched; the unfortunate inhabitants
quitted their afties, and took refuge in the
new city, which aflumed the pompous fur-
name of Mq/r, peculiar to the capital of

** ahelha, oua efrouhom ; tom farou men belbes oua
** nazelou ala elkahera oua balerouha. Feharac Sba^
** cuar medinet mafr raufan men en iemlekha elfrangi ;
** fe baqiritt elnar tehrokha arbaat oua khamfin ioum ;

oiia faneh Shaouaf elfrangi, ala elf elf dinar, iehmelha
** eleihom, fe hamal eleihom maiat elf dinar, fe falhom
cn ierhelou an elkahera leiedar ala gema elmal oua
** hafalo, fe rahalou.” Abulfcda.

Egypt,

O N E O Y P T, 8 y

Egypt, and Eddin came here, and e/la-
biidied the dyna/iy of the Ayoubites, (c)

** In the year 572 of the Hegyra« he built
*• the walls which furround Grand Cairo, and
the caftle on mount Mokattam. (d) The
** circumference of thefe walls was 29,300
cubits, (about three leagues) and he conti-
** nued this work till his death.'* f e)

Theie walls are ftill almoft perfect, though
occafionally much concealed by ruins and

(t) The famous Salah Eddia, or Saladin, who twenty
years warred with the Franks, and drove them alimdl
entirely from the Eaft, was appointed governor of Egypt,
by Nour Eddin, in the year 564 of the Hegyra, of which
he became fovereign three years after, and rapidly ex-
tended his conquefts in Syria and Mefopotamia. He
was born at TVrnV, a ftrong place between Bagdad and
Moful, in the year 533 of the Hegyra, and died at Da-
mafeus in 582.

{d) ** Fi hade eflenfi (etnin oua khams6 maiat) amar
Salah Eddin beinan eflbur eddiar ala malr elkahera,

** oua elkalaat ala eggebal elmokattam. Oua dour telk
'* tefliMt oua aiherin elf draa, oua talat maiat draa, oua
** lam Izel elaml il a en mat.**

Life of Salah Edditt*

(e) This pafi^e abfolutely overturns the ojunion of
Father Sicard, who fays the caftle was built by Queen
Semiramis ; and alio that of Shaw, Niebuhr, and many
odier writers, who have fuppofed it the fortreft of Baby-
lon, which the Peifians built in Egypt.

G 4

houfes i

S8

LETTERS

houfes: they have feveral gates, of iimple
and majedic arcbitedture ; which, with ibrne
mofques, deferve the admiration of travellers.
Salah Eddin, the protedfcor of letters, built a
univerdty in the quarter of Caraffe ; allb the
beautiful mofque in which is the tomb of
fey, the founder of one of the four fe£ts o the
Sunnites, (f) The mofque ftill fubiifts, but
thehniverfity is in ruins, and the academy Dja^
mab Elajhar (the mofque of flowers) has fup-
plied its. place. Arts and iciences flourhhed
till the Turks became mailers of Egypt, but
then decayed. Enemies to human know-
ledge, they have ilifled wifdom and learning
throughout their whole empire ; their only
iludies, at prelent, are theology, while their
innumerable commentators have made a chaos
of the Koran ; grammar, which is neceflfary to
read this book correctly, in which is con-
tained their religion and laws ; and aflirology,
a iludy to which ignorant nations always are
addidled.

In the fifteenth century. Grand Cairo was
one of the richefl; and moft fiourilhing cities

(f) Thofe le£ts of the Sunnites, called orthodox by
the Mahometans, are ‘ Shaffty^ Hanefi^ Hanhali^ and

in

O ft E &'ifP-T;

in the world, the emporium of Europe and
Alia, and traded from the Straits of Gib-
raltar to the fartheft limits of India. The
difcovery of the Cape of Good-hope, and the'
Ottoman conqued, have deprived it of a great
part of its opulence and fplendor : yet, not-
v.’ithftanding many of its canals, which
brought the treafures of the Eaft and Weft,
are become dry, and the city itielf groans
under the yoke of the Pacha and four and
twenty Beys, its admirable iituation, and the
fertility of Egypt, are advantages fo great
that, in a fpace of three leagues, it ftill con-
tains a multitudinous people, and immenle
riches.

I hope. Sir, the authorities above cited
will afcertain the origin of Grand Cairo.
Before I am more circumftantial concerning
this city, it feems neceftary to deftribe Foftat,
of which I have fpoken lb much, and this
will be the fubjed: of my next letter.

J have the honour to be, &c.

LET-

L £ T T E R &

.LETTER m

"Bofiat founded by Amrou Rbn Elaas : tie city,
its iniabitants and monwnents, vntb tie
ancient canal that ran to the Red Sea, de-
JcrUfed, Rfutation of tbofe authors who
have fuppofed tins city to be the ancient
Babylon, founded by Semramis,

To M. L. M.

The city of Foftaty commonly called
Old Cairo, has been. Sir, the fulled of
isasKj ihie \ta.tiitdN«Vvo

written on Egypt* (g) Mod: of them,

iearching

(g) M. Maillet pretends the governors of Egypt,
under the Emperors of Conftantinople, made Foftat their
place of refidence, when Amrou fon of £1 Aas took it,
after a long fiege. De/eription tk fEgjptt, teme i. /. 194a
»This is an error.

Shaw, fpeaking after the geographer of Nubia, iay^

** The city of Foftat is the very lame called Mhlr, a
** name derived from Mifraim, the Ion of Ham, the ion

dei.V SVukw's T lave^s^ p. 094. — TYus opvmon V& hti
from the truth.

Father Sicard, citing Jofephus, fays, “ Old Curo
5 * iras the ancient Letc, Cambyfes fettled the Babylo-

n/ans

ON EGYPT. 0

fearching Greek and Latin authors for it»
origin, have been deceived : had they lodted
into the annals of the Eaft, they would have
found the truth, and avoided a multitude of
errors which have glided into their deicrip-
tions. 1 (hall follow my ufual plan, and,
inftead of opinion, cite fa<3s.

** In the twentieth year of the Hegyra^

** Amrou, fon of £1 Aas, built Mafr Foftat,

** in the very place where he had encamped
** before he went to the fiege of Aleacan-
** dria. His tent was left {landing there,
becaule he would not deftroy a dove's
** neft and her young : returning from his
conqueft, the general laid the foundation
** of the city, to which he gave the name of
« Foftat." ("V

This paftage precilely marks the foundation
of Foftat, where the governors fent by the
Caliphs fixed their relidence. It took the

nians in this city; who, having conquered Egypt,
remained there.” Lettres Edifiantes, p, 473.

Old Cairo was not built in the time of Jofephus, as

t\ke place -wViexe tliat city was \>ui\t, remained. •

(h) Elmacin. Hiftoiyof the Arabs— Foftat, in Arabic,
fignifies tent.

fomath<$

LETTERS

9 ^

furname o£ Mafr^ (i) which Memphis had
before borne, and which the Arabs always
gave to the capital of Egypt ; and its fituation,
on the banks of the Nile, and near a canal
communicating with the Red Sea, fbon
made it flourifli. It was about two leagues in
circumference, when Shaouar, (k) five hun-
dred years after its foundation, fet it on fire,
to preferve it from the French. This was
the fatal period of its power; for, with its
inhabitants, it lofi: its trade and riches. Grand
Cairo then became the abode of lords and
kings, and received the pompous name of
Foftat, then, added the epithet Elatik,
fignifying the ancient, to that of Mafr,
which it preferves to this day. (1)

To

(i) The Arabs pretend that Mifraim, the fon of
Ham, came and fettled in Egypt, which they, there-
fore, call Mafr ; and beftow the fame epithet on th«
metropolis of the country.

(i) See the preceding letter.

The oriental hiftorians have never called Foftat
by the name of Kahera (Cairo) ; they firft named it
Foftat, then Foftat Mafr ; and, lince its decline, Mafr
Elatik. The‘7' enetian merchants firft gave it the name
of Old Cairo, and travellers have repeated the error.

Oua Foftat madine mahedta benaha amrou ebn elaas,
lamina fatah diar mafr fi khalafet Omar. Oua can fi
mauda cl Foftat Cafi: men bena elaouail iecal lo cafr

elfhamahy

ON EGYPT.

93

To the above defeription of Elmacin the’
learned Abulfeda adds circumftances which
throw great light on hiftory. “ Anirou» fba
** of El Aas, having conquered Egypt, laid
the foundation of Foftat, under the Cali-
“ phet of Omar. Near the place on which
“ he built it was an antique callle, called
** /i&e Cq/?/^ of Lights, The mofque of Omar,
** built at a little didance from the ground
*• on which the general -had eredled his tent,
“ flood within the city. Fodat Mafr was
** the feat of government, in Egypt, till the
time that Ebn Toulon built, north of its
** walls, the fuburb of Cat ay ah, to which he
** retired with his army, and there founded
** the celebrated temple which bears his
** name.” (m)

The outlines of the cadle, mentioned by
Abulfeda, dill remain. They are thick walls,

cKhamah, fe can Foftat amrou be janeb el jameh
elmarouf bejameh Omar be mafr. Oua latn tezel mafr,
oua hie Foftat courch Iclmemleke eddiar elmafriat hetta
taula ahmed Ebn Toulon. Oua bena lo oua Fafquero
clcata'iah ft Ihemali mafr. Oua bena and ehataiah
djameh elmarouf be djameh Tailoun. Abfflfeda Deferip-
tion of Egypt, p. 33.

(m) I mentioned this temple in the preceding letters
it is one of the molt beautiful niofques in Grand Cairo. '

in

^ LETTERS

to tiie form of a parallelogram^ the antl«
^ia^€t/’w^/£‘J!fJs veiry Jinking, It hands caA
o? Fodat, on the Gde of mount Mokattam*
Cbriftiafls inhabit thefe ruins> among which
the Greeks and Copts have churches. Several
ancient arches are flill Aanding, between this
place and the river i there are others half
deftroyed^ and a hexagonal building, on the
hanks of the Nile, denotes the remains of the
aqueduct which conveyed water to the caftle.
Hero then. Sir, behold the fortrefs of Baby-
lon; an object of refearch and error to fb
many of the learned : it was built by the Per-
fians when they ravaged Egypt, under Cam-
hyfes ; or, as other writers will have it, when
Semiramis came there, at the head of a formi-
dable army. We may know it from the
defeription of Strabo, {n ) The Perhans, who

(nj Up the Nile, above Heliopolis, now called Ma-
taree, two leagu!>3 from Grand Cairo, is the Caftle of
Babylon, fortified by nature and art j it was built by
fome Babylonians, who, with the confent of their fo>
vereign, retired thither. Here, the Romans keep one of
she three legions, who guard Egypt, in garrifon. The
mountain gier^tly defeends from that fortrefs to the
banks df the Nile ; a hundred and fifty Haves are conti-
nually employed in raifing water thither, by the means
of wheels and ferews. Strabo^ lib. 17.

adored

o K E 6 V P T. 9 S

adored the fun, kept a perpetual fire here,
which ixxaBoned the Aisbs to name it /Ac
^ %6es, (o)

Mafr Elatik is only half a les^ue in ex*
tent, but is fiill very populous, and tolerably
commercial. The boats from Upper Egypt
come here, and from hence alcend again up
the Said, (p) The Copts are veiy numerous,
and have feveral churches in this place, the
largeft of v^hich is that of St. Maca-
rius, where the patriarch is infialled. The
church of St. Sergius contains a cavern
which the chriftians hold in great venera-
tion, pretending that the holy family, dy-
ing from Herod, retired here. 1 law
the hiftoty of this flight painted on the
door of a receis, in which they fay mafi i
the coilume of the Eaft is perfe^y obierved
in this piAure, and the head of the Virgin
tolerable. The negle<fl of coftume, among

foj Niebuhr has given the parallelogram figure of
this caftic, in his plan of Cairo j but he has taken it for
the citadel, the honour of conftrufting which he has
heftowed upon the Arabs. «

{p) The Arabs call Upper Egypt, Said, b^naiag
above Mafr Foftat, and ending at Afibuan, fionneely
Sycne. ^

modem

L E'T T E a S

9 ^

modern pdnters> too often deftroys the efie<ft
of their fined: compofitions.

A hexagonal building fiands at the en-i
trance of Old Cairo, each fide of which
is eighty feet wide, and one hundred
high. Oxen mount up a very gentle af-
cent, and turn a wheel, which raifes water
to the fummit of this building : five bafons
receive and return the water into an aque-
dudl, fuftaincd by three hundred arches,
which conveys it into a refervoir 5 there
other oxen, and a new machine, raife it to
the palace of the Pacha. This is a work
of the Arabs, which they have conftru<fi:ed
according to the plan of that defcribed by Stra-
bo, the remains of which are /ben between the
citadel of Babylon and the Nile; the only
difference is the Mahometans employ oxen
inftead of men.

The environs of Mafr Elatik are fcattered
over with ruins, which indicate its ancient
extent, and which, were hiftory dcfedlive,
would fufficiently atteff it to be modern.
They wanj^ that majeffic charadter the Egyp-
tians ''gave their edifices, and the imprefiion
of which time cannot efface. Neither iphinx,
column, nor obelifk can. be found, among

thefe

ON EGYPT.

97

iliefe heaps of rubbUh. Within the city
are thick walls^ round a great fquare, in
which they depoht the corn of the Thebais,
deftined for the provifion of the troops.
This enclofure they call Joleph's granaries, and
the name has impofed upon fome travellers,
who have taken it, without examination, for
the work of the fon of Jacob, though there
is nothing appertaining to it which helpers
antiquity, and hiftory has informed us it
was built by the Mamluk kings. Memphis,
the reiidence of the Pharaohs, was the place
where Jofeph, the fuperintendant of the corn
of Egypt, ere<5i;ed his magazines.

Juil without Mafr Elatik, near the wa-
ter works, the kbalig, (q) which runs
through Grand Cairo, and which is annu-
ally opened with ib much ceremony, begins.
Moft modern writers have attributed this
canal to the Emperor Tnyan, (r) on the

authority

(q) The Arabs call all canals, khaligm

( r) Shavr calls it, amnts 7rajanus» Shaw’s Travels,

p. 2 q4.

Pococke fays — “ Oppodte to this refervoir of water,
** at the Nile, is the canal that conveys the water to
** Cairo, and leems to be that which was made by Tra-
“ jau.” Ppc. Trav. vol. I. p. 27.

Vox.. I. H

Father

98 LETTERS

authority of that pailage in Ptolemy, which
fays, the river of Trajan runs between He-
liopolis and Babylon ; but this Emperor cut
no canal in Egypt; a work of this kind
mud be attributed to his fucceflbr, who
built the city of Antinoe. The canal Pto-
lemy 'means begins a league and a half below
Old Cairo, and pades near Heliopolis ; and
this is what Macrizi, fsj with reafon, calls
the khalig of Adrian.

The origin of the canal, the mouth of
which is at Mali* Elatik is too well delcribed
by Elmacin, for any one, who confults ori-
ental hillory, to confound it with that of
Adrian. Amrou having fent intelligence to
Omar of the taking of Alexandria, and ca-
mels loaded with wheat to Medina, then
ravaged by famine, the Caliph congratu-
lated him on his fuccefs, and thus added.
“ Dig a kbalig, ft) by which the produc-
“ tions of Egypt may be taken into the

Father Sicard goes farther, and fiys — This is the
“ canal which' Ptolemy calls, amnis Trajanusj Quin-
“ tus Curfius, Oxiiis ; and the Ar:ibs, Merakemi.’*
Lettres Edffiantcs, p. 470.

(sj Macrizi, hiftory of Egypt.

ftj Elmacin, hiftory of the Arabs.

** ica

ON EGYPT.

99

** £ea, of Colzoum, ^uj and from thence to
** the port of Medina. Amrou executed
** this great work, and dug the khalig to
** which the name of t&e river of the princes
** of the faithjul was given 5 (x) and the
veiTels which go from Foftat carry the
productions of Egypt into the fea of Col-
*• zoum.”

This, Sir, was the origin of the famous
canal which travellers, repeating each others
words, have called amnis Trajaniis. It be-
gins near Foftat, runs, lengthways, through
Grand Cairo, fills the ponds of that city,
and empties itfelf, Ibme leagues beyond, in
the Birque fyj of the pilgrims of Mecca.
The various princes who have fucceflively
reigned over Egypt, fcveral of whom were
enemies to the Caliphs, have fuitered it to
become dammed up, and it no longer emp-
ties its waters into the Red Sea; but, as it
was cut through rock^ for the
twenty-four leagues, the mud and fand with

(uj Colzoum, is the name the Arabs ^ive to the Red
Sea ; it was derived from the fmall tow'n of Qolzoum,
the ruins of which are fomc dillance from Suez.

( x) Khalig el emir el mcumenin.

fyJ Birque is an Arabic word, fignifying an extenfiv*
pl«ce of water.

II 2 which

LETTERS

which it is filled might eafily be removed.
By this important communication with the
Red Sea, Grand Cairo would once more be>
come the mofl wealthy and commercial city
in the world.

Let me hope. Sir, your love for truth
will indulge me in thefe difcuflions, fince
they fcrve to throw light on certain parts
of hiflory which have been in the utmoft
obfcurity. I ihall foon have occafion to
enliven and make my narrative more agree-
able i the country where I am at prefent is
another world, prefenting fcenes continually
new ; I will endeavour to trace them fuch
as they are. You fhall hear the Turks
ipeak for themfelves, fhall fee them a£t, and
I will leave to you the fatisfa<flion which
enlightened mind always takes in judging
for itfelf.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

LET

LETTER VIII.

^be extent qf Grand Cairo 5 its Jheets^
Jquares, and mojques. ^be palace Sa-^
lab Eddin, built on a height which over^
looks the cityt where are found Jlatefy
columns f granite^ and the famous well
f fofepb^ defcribed»

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

The length of Grand Cairo, Sir, built on
each fide of the canal of the prince of the
faithful, is one league and a half, from north
to Ibuth ; and three quarters of a league, in
width, from eafi to well. Its whole extent is
befi feen from the cafile, built by Salah Eddin,
on Mount Mokattam, (z) which over-
looks the cit]ip by which it is half encir-
cled, like an immenie crefcent. The fireets
are . ib narrow and wimping that it is im-
poffible to follow their diretflion, amidfi; the

(%J Mokattam ilgnifies cut, and this rock js fo called
becaufe it has been feparated by art from the Aountain
which, beginning at the cataracts, ends here : and from
which it is only about a hundred -paces difhuit.

H 3 multitude

102 LETTERS

multitude of houles which fland crowding
on each other; vaft vacancies only can be
diflinguifhed, and thele are fquares which
become ponds in the time of inundation*
and gardens the reft of the year. They
are rowed over in September, and covered
with flowers and verdure in April. Some
'of the many temples with which this city
abounds tower like citadels ; and once, du-
ring the time of (edition, the rebels re-
tired to the mofque of Sultan Haflan, from
the fop of Vv’hich they battered the caflle
with cannon. There is a vaft dome ever
this grand edifice; its cornice, grotefquely
fculptured, projects confiderabiy, and its front
is faced with the fineft marble : the gates are
now wailed up, and are guarded by Janiflaries.

Grand Cairo contains near three hundred
molques, Cioft of. them with minarets, which
are high fteeples of light architecture, and
furrounded by galleries. Thefe give an agree-
able variety to a city which, from the flatnefs
of its roofs, appears uniform. Public criers*
at appointed hours, (a) call the people to

prayers

(a) That is to fay, at funrifing, noon, three o’clock,
fua fetting, and about two hours after. Theft different
" fervices

ON EGYPT.

103

prayers from thefe minarets : about eight hun-
dred voices are heard at the fame moment,
from all quarters of the city, calling man
to the performance of his duty to God.
The Turks abhor the noife of bells, and
fay it offends the ears, is unmeaning, and
proper only for beads of burthen. They
derive this opinion from Mahomet, who,
like a great politician, deiirous that all his infti-
tutions fliould have one* tendency, and wil-
ling to captivate both the ienles and under-
ilanding, rgedled the trumpet of the Jews,
and the rattle of the Oriental Chridians.
He knew tile human voice would make
a greater impredion on the mind of. man.
than the grating found of infenfible brafs,
and produced a holy fummons, fent by hea-
ven, conformable to his views, (b)

fervices are called Salaat el Fc^Vy cl aibr, el afr, cl i.u-
grchy el ajhom

(b) The following is the form of this fummons :
God is great. I bear witnefs^tnee^ 'I’ut one God 2
I bear witnefs that ^lahumet is his prophet. Come to
prayer ; come to worfhip. God is great ; he is only
one God.

Allah Acbar. Eihhetl en la ila elia allah^^bdihed en
Mahammcd rafoul allah. Hai a! a es falat ; hai ala el fa-
lah. Allah Acbar. La ilia clla allah.

H4

The

LETTERS

Z04.

The caftle of Cairo /lands on a fteep roqk^
and is futf ounded by thick walls, on which are
ilrong towers. It was a place of great force
before the invention of gunpowder, but, be-
ing commanded by the neighbouring moun-
tains, it would not, now, ftand the fire of a
battery ereded there two hours. It is more
than the fourth of a league in circumference }
the rock being deep, there are two roads cut
to it, which lead to doors guarded by Aflabs
and Janidaries. CcJ The fird watch the
lower part of the fortrefs, and the others
what is properly called the citadel, whence,
with fix wretched pieces of artillery, turned
on the Pacha’s apartment, they oblige him
to retire, as /bon as the Beys have given the
comniand.

This cadle includes the palaces of the
Sultans of Egypt, now almod buried under
their own ruins; domes overthrown, heaps
of rubbi/h, gilding, and pictures, the co-
lours of which defied corroding time,

lately marble columns dill danding, but
in general without capitals; fuch are the

(e) The Aflabs and Janiflaries are troops belonging
to the Grand Seignor; but always bought from their
duty by the Beys. .

tokens

ONEGYPT. 105

tokens of its former magnificence. In onp
of the halls of theie ruinous buildings the
rich carpet is fabricated which the Emir
Hadgi, ( d) bears every year to Mecca 5 the
old carpet is obtained in bits, by the pil-
grims, as holy relics, and the '’new covers the
Caaba, or temple of Abraham, (e)

The Pachas inhabit a large building, con-
taining nothing remarkable, the windows of
which look towards the fquare Caramaydan.
The hall of audience, where the Divan af>
fembles three times a week, is as lopg, but
not lb wide, as that of the Palais (the julHce
chamber) at Paris, and is (lained by the blood
of the Beys, mafiacred fbme years ago by order
of the Porte. Thele are, however, at prefen t,
the fovereigns of Egypt ; for the Grand Seig-
nor*s reprefentative is a phantom with which
they {port : they keep him to ferve their own
purpofes, then difmifs him with lhame.
He cannot leave his palace, in which he is
a prifoner, without their ^rmifiion. Thus
humbled is the Ottoman pride, thus feeble,

jf d) Emir Hadgi, or prince of the caravan, tide

of the Bey who undertakes to cfcort the caravan which
departs every year from Cairo to Mecca.

(e) See ahrigi dt la vie de I^almaet by Savaty, 4.

' thus

io6 L, E T T E R S

thus reduced is the empire which threaten*
ed to enflave Europe !

The mint is befide Caramaydan, where
they coin a prodigious quantity of medins^
and fequins, (f) ftruck with the die of the
Sheik Elbalad, .(^) which I have fevcral times
viiited. The fequins are made of the gold-
duft fupplied by the caravan of Abyffinia,
which the maAer of the mint aiTured me an-
nually brought more than 1 66,6661. fterling.

Jofeph’s well is among the things the molt
curious the cadle contains, (b) It is funk in
the rock, two hundred and eighty feet deep,
and forty- two in circumference. It includes
two excavations, not perpendicular to each
other. A flair-cale, the defcentof which is
exceedingly gentle, is carried round $ the par-

(f) A fequln is a gold coin, worth about fix and three-
pence.

(g) The Bey mod powerful, in Grand Cairo, aflumes
the title Sheik Elbdad, governor of the country, and the
right of coining. ^

(h) Pococke fays a Vifir named Jofeph funk t'nij wtll,
about feven hundred years ago, by order of Sultnn Tvi..-
hatnmed, the. fon of Calaoun: the Egyptians aferm it
was S'alah. Eddin. It certainly, however, is the work of
the Arabs, and not the Babylonians, as Father Sicard
pretends.

tition

O N E G Y P T. 107

tition which feparates this ilair-caie from the
well is part of the rock, left only fix inches
thick, with windows cut, at intervals, to give
light ; but as they are fmall, and fbme of
them low, it is neceffary to defcend by the
light of candles. There is a refervoir, and a
level fpace, at that part of the well where it
takes a new diredtion ; and oxen which turn
a machine that draws water from the bottom
of the well. Other oxen, above, raife it from
this refervoir by a fimilar machine. This
water comes from the Nile; and, as it has
been filtered through fand impregnated with
fait and nitre, is brackifh.

The ruins of the palace of Salah Eddin are
in the Janifiary’s quarter, and include the
divan of Jofeph, (r) the dome of which, and
a part of the walls have fallen. There are
thirty columns of red granite ftill ftanding :
the fliaft of each, forty-five feet high, is a
fingle fione. The variations in their fize,
and the ornaments iculpturc^ round the ca-
pitals, beipeak their having been taken from

(i) Salah Eddin was called Jofeph, the iottof
his other names are pompous titles, given him by tbs
ISAahometan* , on account of his victories over the Cbrif-
tian princes, whom he drove out of Syria.

more

to8 LETTERS

more ancient monuments. Some diftance from
thefe beautiful columns is a delightful balcony,
o^ pavilion, ftanding in the higheft part of
the citadel, the proipedt from which is moil:
extenfive. The whole of Grand Cairo, with
its multitudinous mofques and minarets, is
feen at a view. Towards Boulac, fruitful
fields, and rich harvefts, interiperfed with
groves of date-trees ; Mafr Foftat, on the
South-weft, and the plains of Said beyond,
which, when inundated by the Nile, con-
tain hamlets fcattered up and down like
iflands. The landfcape is terminated by the
pyramids, which, like pointed mountains,
appear loft in the clouds. The eye is never
weaiy of obje^s Co various and fo grand, and
I have more than once enjoyed this view.
The frefti air breathed in this elevated fttua-
tion, and the coolneft it imparts is an ad-
ditional pleafure. Seated in this delightful
pavilion, how many agreeable thoughts arile
in the mind; yet how fuddenly are theie
iweet meditations difturbed by gloomy me-
lancholy !■ Here, in tbele rich fields, arts and
fcid&'ces once flourifhed, where now an igno^
rant and barbarous people trample them un-
der foot. Tyranny, with its iron fceptre is

become

O N E G Y P T. 109

become the fcourge of this firA of countries,
in which the miieries of men feem to increaft
in proportion to the efforts of nature to ren-
der them happy ! It was but yefterday. Sir, I
was deeply affefbed by thefe refledtiona,
when, walking before the caftle, I beheld the
magnificent prolped: 1 have defcribed.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

LET.

zxo

LET T.E R S

LETTER IX.

BoulaCf the port of Grand Cairo, its ma^
gazines, environs, and the gardens of Hel-
lai defcribed 5 with curious details concerning
the Mekias, or Nilometcr, on the beautiful
ijland Raouda, which abounds in delightful
groves.

ToM.L. M.

Grand Cairo.

'y O U have more than once. Sir, feen Bou-
iac mentioned in my letters. This is the
place \\ here all the merchandize, coming from
Damietta and Alexandria, is landed. This
modern town, only half a league from Grand
Cairo, on the eailern bank of the Nile, is
two miles long, but narrow. It contains fu«
perb public betths, and vaft okals. Thefe
are fquare buildings, including a large court
with a p9rtico, over which is a winding gal-
lery : the ground floor is divided into fpacious
magazines, and the rooms above have neither
furniture nor ornaments. Here Arangers

• live.

ON EGYPT.

HI

live» and depodt their wares ; and; thele
okals, having only one gate, like that of
a citadel, are fecure, in time of revolt,
from all infult. Thefe are the only inns in
Egypt, and ftrangers are obliged to find
their own furniture and food; for, in this
country, money cannot procure dinners ready
drefled.

In front of the houfes .of Boulac are feen
thoufands of veflcls, of various forms and fizes,
at anchor. Some, large and flrcng, carrying
two mafts, are trading barks ; thele ufually
have a large cabin for palTengers ; others,
light* and without decks, are only to ferry
the people from one fide of the river to the
other. A thii-d lurt are pleafure boats, art-
fully carved and painted, containing charming
cabins, carpeted over, and affording flielter
from the fun's heat. Here, reclined at cafe
on cufhions, the wealthy go to breathe that
frefh and cooling air which is continually
active upon the Nile, and »heie admire the
variegated landfcapes which its ever verdant
banks prefent. When the wind’*' is favour-
able the fail is hoifted, and tliefe light boats
feem to fly over the furface of the vrater »

wtien

rj2

LETTERS

when contrary* robuO; watermen give them
almoil equal ipeed.

Oppofite Boulac is the fmall village of £n-
baba* confiding of miierable mud huts, built
of a round form, under the (hade of (yea-*
mores, againd which they red, fome houfes
of fun-dried bricks, and a fmall mofque,
which is (een at a didance among the fo-
liage of dates and tamarinds. The inhabi-
tants of Cairo go there to buy excellent but-
ter, during winter i and, in dimmer, deli-
cious melons.

Hsdf a league North-ead of Boulac is the
old cadle of Hellai, (k) which is falling in
ruins. Here the Beys, accompanied by their
(lately train, go to receive the new Pacha,
and condu<d him in pomp to the prifon from
which they have jud expelled his predecefibr.
Round this cadle are (pacious enclofures,
where the orange, citron and pomegranate,
planted vvithout order, grow exceedingly high
and tuftefl : th-ir twining branches form
chari^iog arbours, over which the fycamore
..aii^ palm extend their dark green foliage,

Itfeems probable this caftle derived its name from
' Heliopolis, from which it is -not far dillant.

and

ON EGYPT* rij

and among them rivulets meander, and the
cluflering rofe and bazil bloom. It is
impodible to defcribe the delight of breath*
ing the frelh air beneath theie enchanting
ihades, under a climate fo continualljr
podeding the burning heat of the dog>days 5
this pleafure only can be felt. The odour
of the orange dower, and the aromatic cm*
anations of balfamick plants gently renovate
the (enfes, benumbed by heat, and infufe the
moil agreeable fenfations. It is dangerous
for a European to frequent thete groves too
much, being peopled by concubines, whom
the jealous Turks, if they dip, never par*
don.

Jgnofter.da quldcm^ fctrer.t fi Igmfcerc matuSm

Beyond theie gardens is the canal the con*
druAion of which Macrizi attributes to the
emperor Adrian. Ptolemy calls it the Tra-
jan river : it is almod dammed up.

Having hadily viewed thefe charming
places, 1 returned, embarked at JBoulac, and
proceeded along the Nile as far as the idand

(1) The bazil. In Egypt, grows thrice as high as in
France, and exceedingly tufted and odoriferous.

VoL. 1. 1 Raouda^

LETTERS

J14

Raouda, {mj which lies between Old Cairo
and Giza. For the (pace of a league the e3re
is delighted with immenfe fields, of wheat,
flax, and beans, intermingled with groves of
dates, and hamlets. I allb faw the mouth
of a large canal, on the left bank of the river,
before I came to Giza, {n)

Being come to the proje<^ing part of the
iiland of Raouda, I went to fee the Nilome-
ter which the Arabs call Mehtas, (0 ) This is
a high marble column in the middle of a ba-
ion, the bottom of which is on a level with
the bed of the Nile. It is divided, to the ve-
ry top, into cubits and inches, and has a
Corinthian capital on which a beam refls that
fupports a gallery. TBe waters enter the ba-
fon through a conduit, when the inundation
begins, and the criers examine the column
every morning, and publifh the daily increafe

^01 J Raouda fignifies gardens, and the ifiand has ob-
tained this name becaufe it pofielTes fome charaiing
ones. ^

(n) 1 feveral times walked along the banks, and have
followed its courfe for the fpace of a league; it baa
Various windings, and runs toward Libya. This was
probably one of the canals which formerly ran to the
lake Mareotis.

(9J Mtkias fignifies meafure.

through

ON EGYPT.

through the ftreets of Grand Cairo. When
it is fixteen cubits high, they open with great
ceremony, the mound which dams up the
canal of the frince of the faithful^ and the
Nile ilreams through the city amldH: the ac-
clamations of the whole people ali'enribled i
but I will defcribe this feftival to you in a
letter on that particular fubjed:.

Before the Arabs had conquered Egypt,
the nilometer flood in the little town of
Halouan, five leagues fouth cf Foftat, and
oppofite the ancient Memphis. In the year
** ninety- fix of the Hegira, (^) Ozama, go-
** vernor of that rich country, wrote to the
** emperor, Soliman Abd Elmelek, that the
Mekias of Halouan had been thrown
“ down, (q) The Caliph commanded ano-
** thcr to be built in the ifland that lies be-
** tween Foflat and Giza. A hundred and
forty eight years after, this nilometer fell,

** and the Emperor Elmetouakkel had ano-
** ther ereded in the fame p’«^ce, which was

(p) £lm?.cm hiftory of the Arabs,

It was natural to place the nilometer near Mem-
phis, which, when the Arabs conquered Egypt, vvas the
refidence of its governors } perhaps there were two, one
on each fide of the river.

I Z

** called

Ii6 LETTERS

“ called the new Mekias.” This nilometer
ftill remains. Nejeni Eddin, fon of Melek
el Adel, who died at Manlbura, during the
expedition of Lewis the ninth into Egypt,
charmed with the fituation, built a vaft pa-
lace near the Mekias, and leaving that built
by Salah Eddin went and inhabited it. The
Eaves whom he entrufted to guard it were
naii'icd Eaharitcs, or Maritime, and diAin-
guilhed theiivft’.lvcs at the battle of Manfou-
ra. The apartiucnts and walls of tliis palace
are now ruinous, but the baibn, owing to its
folid conftrudlion, and the column, which is
well fupported, though they have Rood nine
h /Slid red years, appear to have received no
damage from tin’c.

If iViurtadi m.'y be credited, in his deicrip-
tion of tlie miracles of Egypt, the year that
Amrou conquered this country ihe Nile failed
in its annual incrcafe, and the chief men can^e
to fupplicate the conqueror’s penniilion to
follow the ancjrmt cuftom of drefiing a young
virgin in rich robes, and caAing her into the
river. The Mahometan general firmly op-
pofed the requifuion, and the Nile did not
incrcafe during the three months after the
fummec folAicc. Bat the alarmed Egyptians

coming

ON EGYPT.

It?

.coming to fblicit him again, he wrote to
Omar, giving an account of what had paf-
fed. The Caliph anfwered — O Amrou, I
approve thy condu(^, and the fortitude
“ thou haft fliewn. The law of Mahomet
** ought to abolKh fuch barbarous cuftoms.
“ When thou haft read this letter, caft the
cnclofed into the rfver.**

The enclofed letter contained the followins

O

words.

7 .*; the name of God, tenevolent and merciful,

“ The Lord ftiower down his bencdidions
** on Mahomet and his family ! Abd Allah
“ Omar, fon of Khetteb, prince of the faith*
** ful, to the Nile.

If of thy own inherent virtue thou haft
hitherto flowed in Egypt, fufpend thy
“ courfe ; but if it be by the will of Almighty
“ God that thou watcreft this land, we fuppli-
cate him to command thee to do now as
“ heretofore.

*• Peace be with the Proph'dt^ and health
** and bleding upon his family.**

The hiftorian adds that no fooner had this
letter been thrown into the Nile than the

1 3 waters

ii8 LETTERS

waters role ibver3l cubits. Though Omar, who
could barn four hundred thouiand volumes
without remorfe, might have been very ca-
pable of writing this, and though it may ap-
pear to be his itile and manner, 1 will by
no means. Sir, v-arrant its authenticity, on
the faith of Murtadi ; much lefs the miracle
which followed : the cuftom, however, which
Hill fubfifts, fcems to prove the Egyptians
formerly facriheed a youthful virgin to the
God of the Nile ; for at prelent they make a
clay ilatue, in the form of a woman, which
they call The betrothed^ and place it on the
mound of the khalig of the prince of the
faithful, and throw it into the river previ-
ous to the opening of the dam. Is not this
the remains of a barbarous worlhip, w'hich
the Ottomans, notwithftanding the horror
they hold all kind of idolatry in, could not
wholly abolifh, being the ancient error of a
fuperllitious people?

Having vilited the Mekias, and the remains
of the palace yoT Nejem Eddin, I walked
through , the ifland, which is one vail gar-
den, furrounded by the waters of the Nile.
Walls, breafl; high, protect its banks iron)
the impetuous current. On one fide. Old

Cairo,

ON EGYPT.

»*?

Cairo, the water-works, and plea fare houfes
of the Beys, are ieen; on the other, the
pleafant town of Giza, where there is a ma«
nufadtory of fal-ammoniac. The governor
who refides here exadls a tax from thofe who
viAt the pyramids out of curioAty.

LoA in agreeable meditation, I entered a
grove of tamarind, orange, and lycamore
trees, and enjoyed the freAi air be-
neath their thick foliage. A luminous ray
here and there penetrated the deep Aiades,
gilding a fmall part of the fcene. Plants and
Aowers fcented the air, multitudes of doves
Aew from tree to tree, undiAurbed at my ap-
proach. Thus abandoned to the delights of
contemplation, and indulging thofe delicious
fenfations the time and place inlpired, I un-
cautiouAy proceeded towards the thickeA part
of the wood j when a terrifying voice fuddenly
exclaimed — Where are you going ? Stand, or
you are dead.— It was a Aave who guarded
the entrance of the grove, that no raAi cu-
rioAty might diAurb the femides who repofed
upon the verdant banks. 1 ii^antj[y turned
back, happy in not having been known to
be a European. 1 afterwards under-

Aood

S26

t E T T E R s

Rood the Beys go there ibmetimes with
their Harem, frj and that any over inquiit-
five flranger, who (hould wander there at
fuch a time, would riik the immediate lofs
of his head. You perceive. Sir, how necef-
lary circumfpe^ion is in a country where
the lead: indiicretion may lead to death.

I have the honour to be, &c.

frJ This name is given to the apartment of the wo-
men, but it is alfo ufed to fignify the women them?
fslves*

LET.

ON EGYPT,

121

LETTER X.

Of Heliopolis^ the ancient city of the Sun:
the fate in •which it •was •when Strabo
•wrote. O/ the obelijk of granite fill fiand-^
ing: the bafamfr^b of Mecca, •which •ivas
tranfplanted by a Pacha j and the fountain
named Matar A.in, frjejh •water, •which the
Copts bold in great veneration, believing that
the Holy Virgin came thither •with her fen.

To M. L. U.

Grand. Cairo.

w H I L E deferibing the environs of the
city, I ought not. Sir, to forget the ancient
Heliopolis, (sj formerly famous, for culti-
vating the higher branches of fcience, and
the grandeur of its buildings. Geographers
place it at fbme diilance from the eaftern.
angle of the Delta. Strabo Ct) tells us it
was built on a long flip cr^yearth, railed by
men, to fecure it from inun^ion, and the

fsj i. e. The city of the fun,

(tj Lib. xy.

place

122

LETTERS

place he defcribes I found covered with
ruins, two leagues north eaft of Grand Cairo,
and three from the ieparation of the Nile.

Heliopolis poiTefled a temple of the Sun,
where, in a particular enclofure the facred
ox was fed. This ox was adored here by the
name of Mnevis, as he was at Memphis by that
of Apis. The credulous people fuppofed it a
god i the priefks an animal moll ufeful to
agriculture, in a country where he afliils in
tillage, and afterwards in watering the earth,
during fix months of the year ; fuj but as
fuperfiition was their gain, by procuring
them offerings and rendering them the guar-
dians of the oracles, they fupported it with
all their art.

The temple of the Sun was not the only
one at Heliopolis s there was another, built
in the old Egyptian ftile ('xj with iphinx
avenues and fiately obelifks before the prin-
cipal entrance. Nothing could have a finer
effedt than the coloffal figures of marble, and

When the w'.cers of the Nile are low, oxen are
employed to turr. machines, with chain-buckets, which
raife the water into refervoirs, whence it is difperfed over
the grounds ; for which reafon this animal is preferved at
its birth, and it is forbidden to kill a calf in Egypt.

Strabo, lib. 17.

high

ON EGYPT.

123

high pillars of a fingle ilone» which were
in front of the veftibule of Egyptian temples.
While the ailoniihed eytf contemplated theie
marvellous works, the imagination read the
hiftory of the god adored there, and the
prince who had raifed fuch edifices, in the
hieroglyphics with which they were over-
ipread. The temples of Heliopolis were ru«
ins in the time of Auguflus. Strabo relates
that the marks of the rage of Cambyfes, who
had attacked them with fire and fword, were
every where feen. Two of the four obelifks
which Sochis had erected in that city were
carried to Rome, (y) a third was defiroyed
by the Arabs, and the fourth remains on its
pedeftal. It is a fingle ftone, brought from
the Thebais, perfectly poiiihed, fixty eight
feet high above the bate, and about fix feet
and a half fquare. The obeliik is in good
prefervation, except toward the fouth well,
where the granite is chipped to a certain
height, and its fides covered with hierogly-
phics. This and one .iphin^ of yellowifh
marble, thrown in the dufi, are the only
remains of Heliopolis.

{yj Strabo, lib, 17.

Thcr^

124 LETTERS

There was formerly a college of prleRs
here, which obtained no more mercy from
the barbarous Cambyfes than did the aly-
lum of Mnevis, where for more than a
thoufand years they had made aftronomical
obfervations, and by their labours had cal-
culated the folar year of three hundred and
£xty five days and fome minutes, which alone
will prove the extent of their knowledge in
this fcience. It was many years afterwards
before the people of Europe could exactly
determine the folar year 5 and Julius Csefar,
wifoing to reform the Roman kalender, was
obliged to employ an aftronomer of Alex-
andria.

At Heliopolis Herodotus was chiefly in-
ftrudlcd in the fcicnces, and Egyptian myfte-
riesi which were no other than thofe pro-
found branches of knowledge they thought
prudent to conceal from the people under the
veil of religion, and prefer ved to themfelves
by writing them in hieroglyphics, which them-
felves only unde-«itood. Enlightened by what
he learnt frohi them, and endued with an
obferving mind, this father of hiftory was
crowned at the Olympic games, and the
nine books he compofed were worthy the

name

ON EGYPT.

125

n:ime of the nine mufes v/hich they bore.
And yet how many people, who have either
not read him enough, or not at all, have
dared to criticife and call him fabulous. For
my own part, fufpending my judgment on
the remainder of his hiftory, I only can efti-
matc the worth of what he fays concerning
Egypt, and with the utmoll: fatisfaition 1
have found the manners and cuftoms he
appropriates to this country ; except with fuch
flight modifications as changes of govern-
ment and religion mull necefiarily have intro-
duced. As to the monuments he has de-
feribed, what remains proves he has not
exaggerated, and demonftrates the poUibility
of what is no more. Juflice extorts this
homage to a hifiorian who, like Homer, was
the painter of nations.

Heliopolis has not only the glory of hav-
ing inftrmfled Herodotus, but alfo of having
taught pliilofophy to Plato, /'zj who, from
the fublimity of his dodtrine, has obtained
the name of Divine. In this city, Eudoxus
too pad thirteen years, in the priefts fchool,
and became the mod famous adronomer of
his time. What now remains of all her

(z) Strabo, lib. 17.

monuments

126 LETTERS

monuments and all her fciences ? A harba<>
rous Perhan has overthrown her temples, a
fanatic Arab burnt her books, and one fblitary
obeliik, overlooking her ruins, fays to paf>
fengers. This once was Heliopolis !

At a little diftance is the fmall village of
Motor ee, (a) £o sailed becaufe it has a freHi
water fpring, and the only one in Egypt.
Probably tlie ftratum through which the
waters of the Nile are filtered, in coming
to this fpring, does not poflefs the nitrous
quality, lb common to t’lis country. Tra-
dition has rendered it famous, which fays
that the holy family, flying from Herod, came
here; and that the virgin bathed the child
Jefus in this fountain. The Chriflians relate
many miracles performed here, and come
with great devotion to drink its waters, for
the cure of their difeafes j the very Mahome-
tans partake of their veneration.

In this village was an enclofure where flips
of the balfkm flirub, brought from Alecca by
a Pacha, were .cultivated. When cut like
the vine, precious drops were caught, well

(a) Named Mataree by the Arabs, otherwife Aitt
Shams, fountain of the fun, becaull* it is near the feite of
Heliopolis.

kiiown

0 N E G Y P T. 127

known in pharmacy, and which the eaftern
women ufed to give frefhnefs to the com-
plexion, and fortify the llomach. Thefe
fhrubs, a foot and a half high, have flight
{hoots, and leaves like thofe of rue. Belon,
who faw them when he was at Grand Cairo,
enumerated nine ; he dried one of the flips,
and proved it to be the plant known by the
name of balfamum, or balm of Gilead,
which the caravans bring’ from Mecca. Its
colour he faj'S is reddifli, with an inner bark
of beautiful green ; it has an odour which
partakes of frankincenfe, the leaf of the tere--
binthiis, or turpentine tree, and wild favory ;
and, when rubbed between the fingers, is
aromatic, like the fcent of the cardamomum.
This precious plant is loft to Egypt, where
the Pachas do not ftay long enough to think
of any thing but the intercft of the moment.
It was not to be found when M. Maillet was
conful at Grand Cairo, and at preient is
fcarcely remembered.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

LET

L E T T E R,S

12S

LETTER XL

^be hot baths ufed over all "Egypt, and the
manner of bathing, defcribed ; •with obferva-^
tions on the benefits arifing from them ; on
the praSlke of the •women •who bathe once or
twice a week, and comparifons befween tbefc
baths and thoje of the ancient Greeks,

To M. L. I\I.

Grand Cairo.

T H E hot baths. Sir, known in the
rcmotcil ages, and celebrated by Homer,
who paints the manners of his times, have
here preferved all their allurements and
falubrity 5 neceffity has rendered them com-
mon in a country where perlpiration is
abundant; and pleafure has preferved the
praftice. Mahomet, who knew their uti-
lity, has made the ufe of them a religious
precept. They have been fuperficially de-
fcribed by moil travellers ; but as the habit
1 am in of frequenting them has given me
leifure to examine them attentively, 1 fhall

endeavour

ON E G Y P r*

taf

endeavour to be more particular and
fa<ftory. (h)

The firft apartment, at entering the bath^
is a great chamber, in the form of a rotunda^
with an open roof, to let the pure air circu-
late freely. A (pacious alcove, carpeted, is
carried round, and divided into compartments,
in which the bathers leave their clothes. In
the centre is a fountain, which plays into
a refervoir, and has a pleafing eiFedl.

When undreded, a napkin is tied round the
middle ; fandals are put on, and a narrow paf-
fage is entered, where the heat hril begins to
be felt s the door fhuts, and, twenty paces
further, a lecond opens, which is the en-
trance to a padage at right angles with the
firfl. Here the heat augments, and thofe who
fear to expofe themfclves too fuddenly to its
eiFe£ts flop Ipme time, in a marble hall, before
they enter. The bath itfelf is a fpacious vault-
ed chamber, paved and lined with marble j be-
iide it are four fmall rooms : a vapour conti-
nually rifes from a fountain and cidern of hot

*■"

("ij 1 have feen the baths of the principal cities of
Egypt ; they are all made on the fame plan, feldom dif-
fering, except in lize} tlius an exact defeription of one
will include the others.

VoL. I, K water.

130 LETTERS

water, with which the burnt perfumes min-
gle. (cj

The bathers are not, as in France, impri-
foned in a kind of tub, where the body cannot
reft at its cafe i but, reclining on a ipread flieet,
and the head fupported on a fmall pillow,
they freely take what poUure they pleale,
while clouds of odoriferous vapours envelop
and penetrate every pore.

Having repofed thus fome time, a gentle
moidure diitufes itfelf over the body ; a fer-
vant comes, gently prefles and turns the
bather, and, when the limbs are flexible,
makes the joints crack without trouble ; then
majfes^ (d) and feems to knead the body
without giving the flightefl fenfation of pain.

This done he puts on a fluff glove and con-
tinues rubbing long, and freeing the fkin of
the patient, which is quite wet, from every
kind of fcaly obflrudlion, and all impercep-
tible particles that clog the pores, till it be-
comes as fmooth as fatin ; he then condudls
the bather into a cabinet, pours a lather of
perfumed foap on the head, and retires.

(c) Perfumes are only burnt when it is the deiire of
the perfons bathing. By mingling with the vapour they
produce a moft agreeable efie^.

Id) Majfir comes from the Arabic verb which

fi.anifies to touch lightly.

O N E G Y P T. 131

The ancients honoured their gueAs Aill
more, and treated them after a. more volup-
tuous manner. While Telemachus was at
the court of Neftor, fej “ The beauteous
“ Polycafte, youngeft of the daughters of
“ the king of Pylos, led the fon of Ulyfles to
** the bath, waflied him with her own hands,
“ and, having rubbed his body with precious
“ ointments, clothed him in rich garments
** and a Ihining mantle.” Nor were Pifif-
tratus and Telemachus worfe treated in the
palace of Menelaus, (f) the beauties of which
having admired, ** they were condudled to
** marble bafons, in which the bath was pre-
“ pared, where beauteous Haves wafhed
** them, rubbed them with odorous oils, and
** clothed them in fine garments, and magni-
“ ficent furred robes.” (g)

( e) Odyfley, Book III.

{f) Odyfley, Book IV.

(g) I tranflatc the words J'A*» (fliaggy mantles)

furred robes, though 1 am fenfible no tranflator has fa
rendered them, becaufe it feems to me the poet intended
to deferibe a cuftom which ftill remains, in the Eaft, of
coveriiig the bather with furred garments, when he leaves
the hot bath, to prevent a ftoppage of perfpiration, at a
time when the pores are exceedingly open.

K2

The

132 LETTERS

The room into which the bather retires has
two water cocks, one for cold, the other for
hot water ; and he waihes himfelf. The
attendant prefently returns with a depilatory
pomatum, (b) which inftantly eradicates hair
wherever applied. It is in general ule both
with men and women in Egypt*

Being well walhed and purified, the bather
is wrapped up in hot linen, and follows his
guide through various windings which lead
to the outward apartment, while this infen-
iible tranfition from heat to cold prevents all
inconvenience, (i) Being come to the alcove,
a bed is ready prepared, on which the per-
fbn no Iboner lies down than a boy comes,
and begins to prefs with his delicate hands
all parts of the body, in order to dry them
perfedtly : the linen is once more changed,

(h) Made from a mineral called rufmOt of a dark
brown colour. The Egyptians give it a flight burnitig,
then add an equal quantity of flack lime, and knead them
up with water. This grey pafte will make the hair
fall off in three minutes, without giving the flightsft
pain.

(i) Delicate people flop fome time in the chamber
next the bath, that they may feel no inconvenience by
going too .fuddenly into the air. The pores being
exceedingly open, they keep themfelves warm all day,
and, in winter, flay within doors.

and

ON EGYPT.

133

and the boy gently rubs the callous fkin of the
feet with pumice ilone, then brings a pipe
and Moka coffee, fkj

Coming from a bath filled with hot va-
pour> in which exceffive perfpiration bedewed
every limb, into a fpacious apartment, and
the open air, the lungs expand, and refpire
pleafure : well kneaded, and, as it were,
regenerated, the blood circulates freely, the
body feels a voluptuous eafe, a flexibility till
then unknown, a lightnefs as if relieved from
fbme enormous weight, and the man almofl
fancies himfelf newly born, and beginning firfi:
to live. A glowing confcioufnefs of exiflence
diffufes itfelf to the very extremities ; and,
while thus yielding to the mofl delightful
fenfations, ideas of the mofl pleafing kind pre-
vade and fill the foul ; the imagination wan-
ders through worlds which itfelf embellifhes,
every where drawing pi<Slures of happinefs
and delight. If life be only a fucceflion of
ideas, the vigour, the rapidity, with which
the memory then retraces all the knowledge

( k) The whole expence of bathing thus to me was
half a crown $ but the common people go fimply to per-
fpire in the bath, walh thcmfelves, and give three half-
pence or two-pence at departing.

K 3

of

LETTERS

134

of the man, would lead us to believe that the
two hours of delicious calm, which Succeed
bathing, are an age«

Such, Sir, are theie baths, the uie of
which was fo flrongly recommended by the
ancients, and the pleafures of which the
Egyptians flill enjoy. Here they prevent
or exterminate rheumatifms, catarrhs, and
thole difeales of the fkin which the want of
perlpiration occahons. Here they find a ra-
dical cure for that fatal difeafe which attacks
the powers of generation, and the remedies
for which are fo dangerous in Europe. ( 1 )
Here they rid thcmfelves of thofe uncom-
fortable fenfations fo common among other
nations, who have not the fame regard to
cleanlinefs.

The women are paflionately fond of thefe
baths, whither they go at lealt once, a week,
taking with them flaves accuflomed to the

fl) Tournefort, who had taken the vapour bath at
Conftancinople, where they are much lefs careful than
at Grand Cairo, thinks they injure the lungs ; but
longer experience would have convinced him of his error.
There are no people who praiAife this bathing more
than the Egyptians, nor any to whom fuch difeafes
are lefs known. They are almoft wholly unacquainted
with pulmonic complaints.

office.

ON EGYPT.

13s

. office. More fenfual than men, after the
ufual procefs they wafii the body, and par-
ticularly the head, with rofe- water. There
their attendants braid their long black hair,
with which, inflead of powder and poma-
tum, they mingle precious effences. There
they blacken the rim of the eye-lid, arch
the brows .with cobel^ (m) and ilain the
nails of their hands and feet of a golden
yellow with henna. (7/) Their linen and
their robes have been paft through the fweet
vapour of aloes wood, and, their dreffing
ended, they remain in the outward apart-
ment, and pafs the day in feafting, while
iinging girls come and dance, and iing Noth-
ing airs, or recount amorous adventures.

The days of bathing are feftive days among
the Egyptian women j they deck themfelves
magnificently, and, under the long veil and
mantle w'hich hide them from the public
eye, wear the richefl: fluffs. They undrefs
themfelves in prefence of each other, and

fmj Tin, burnt with gall-nuts, which the Turkifh
women ufe to blacken, and arch, the eye-brows.

fnj A ihrub, common in £g>'pt, which bears fome
refemblance to the privet. The leaves, chopped and
applied to the Ikin, give it a bright yellow colour.

K 4 their

LETTERS

136

their vanity extends to their very drawers,
which in winter arc made of fluffs inwove
fr/h5 £/k and go/d, and m /ammer of worked
muflin. Rubles and lace are unknown to
them, but their fhifts are made of cotton
and iilk, as light and tranfparent as gauze.
Rich fafhes of Caflimire (^ 0 ) bind up their
floating robes, and two crefeents of fine
pearls fparkle amidil the black hair that
ihades their temples ; while diamonds en-
rich the Indian handkerchief with which '
they bind their brows. Such are the Geor-
gians and Circaflians, whom the Turks pur-
chafe for their wives. They are neat to
excels, and walk in an atmolphere of per-
fumes i and, though their luxury is hidden
from the public, it furpafles that of the Eu-
ropean women, in their own houfes.

The exceffive jealoufy of the Turks makes
them pretend that, in this warm climate,
where nature is fo powerful, and women
are irrcfiftibly prone to pleafure, an inter-

(o) The wool of Caflimire is the iineft in the world,
furpaffing filk itfelf. The fafhes made from it coft
about five-and-twenty pounds each ; they are ufuallj
embroidered at both ends, and, though three French
ells long, and one wide, may be drawn through a ring.

courfe

o N E G Y P T. 137

• courfe between the fexes would be dan-
gerous $ they therefore abuie the right of
{Irength, and hold them in ihvery, though
they thereby increafe the violence of their
paffions, and make them ready to feize
the firfl opportunity of retaliation : ignorant*
no doubt* that* though free women may be
won* flaves need no winning.

1 have the honour to be* See,

I. E T-

138

LETTERS

LETTER XII.

Farther accounts cf the Egyptians, their
prvuate lives, food, occupations, amifements,
inclinations, morah, and the fnanner in
•which they receive vijitors.

To M. L. M,

Grano Cj.uo.

IjIFE, Sir, at Grand Cairo is rather pafiivc
than adlive. (p) Nine months in the year
the body is opprefTed by heat^ the foul, in
a llate of apathy, far from being continually
tormented by a wifli to know and adt, fighs
after calm tranquillity. Inadticn, under a
temperate climate, is painful ; here, repofc
is enjoyment. The moll frequent falutation,
at meeting or parting, is. Peace be with you,
(qj EHeminate indolence is born with the

Egyptian,

(p) From March to November the thermometer con-
ilantly rifes from 23 to 36 degrees } in the •< her months
it feldom defeends lower than the ninth degree above
the freezing point.

(q) Thus the Orientals falute each other. The Chrif-
tian religion, which owes its origin to Afia, has bor-
rowed

O N E G Y P T. 139

Egyptian, grows as he grows, and defcends
with him to the grave : it is the vice of the
climate ; it influences his inclinations, and
sroverns his ad:ions. The fofa, therefore, is
the moft luxurious piece of furniture of an
apartment. Their gardens have charming
aroours, and convenient feats, but not a fin-
ele walk. The Frenchman, born under
an ever varying iky, is continually receiving
new impieflions, which keep his mind as
continually awake ; he is active, impatient,
and agitated like the atmofphere in which
he exids j while the Egyptian, feeling the
fame heat, the lame fenfation, two thirds of
the year, is idle, folemn, and patient.-

He rifes with the fun to enjoy the morn-
ing air, purities himfelf, and repeats the
appointed prayer, (rj His pipe and coffee
are brought him, and he reclines at eale on
his fofa. Slaves, with their arms crofled,
remain filent at the far end of the chamber,
with their eyes fixed on him, feeking to an-

rowed the phrafc. The priefis, ia the time of comma-
aioti, at feftivals, faiute each other with — Peace he with
you.

(r) “ Oh, believers! before ye pray, wafh your
face, your hands, and arms up to the elbows, wipe
yourfelyes from head to foot.’* Kargn*

ticipate

149

LETTERS

ticipate his fmalleil want. His children,
fbmding in his prefence, unlels he permits
them to be ieated, preferve every appearance
of tendernefs and refpedt: he gravely ca-*
relies them", gives them his bleliing, and
fends them back to the Harem, (s) He only
queflions, and they reply witli modefty. He
is the chief, the judge, the pontiff of the fa-
mily, before whom thefe facred rights are all
relpe<^ed.

Breakfafl: ended, he tranfaiSs the buhnefs
of his trade, or his office ; and as to dilputes
they are few, among a people where the
voice of the hydra chicanery is never heard i
where the name of attorney is unknown ;
where the whole code of laws conlilis in a
few clear and precife commands, delivered
in the Koran ; and where each man is his
Own pleader.

When vifitors come, the mailer receives
them without many compliments, but with
an endearing manner; his equals are feated
beiide him, with their legs crolfcd ; which

fsj Harem is an Arabic word, flgnifying forbidden
place. It is the apartment of the women, improperly,
by us, called Seraglio.

pollurc

ON EGYPT.

14X

pofture is not fatiguing to the body, unem-
barrailed by drefs. His inferiors kneel, and
fit upon their heels. People of diftindtion
are placed on a railed fbfa, whence they over-
look the company. Thus Eneas, ftj in the
palace of Dido, had the place of honour,
while, feated on a raifed bed, he related the
burning of Troy to the queen. When every
perfon is placed, the Haves bring pipes and
cofiee, and let the perfume brafier in the
middle of the chamber, the air of which is
impregnated with its odours ; and afterward
prefent fweetmeats, and fherbet.

The tobacco fmoked in Egypt is brought
from Syria, in leaf, and cut by theni into
long filaments, it is not ib acrid as that of
America j and, to render it more agreeable,
thev mix with it the odorous wood of aloes.

at

Their pipes are ufiially of jafmin, the end
garnifhed with amber, and often enriched
with precious Hones : tiiey are very long, and

the

(t) Inde taro pater Mneas fie orfus ah alto* Encid
lib. 11.

The epithet vwhich Virgil heftows on £neas,

proves this great poet intimately acquainted with orient
tal manners, among whom the title of Father is the
moil honourable they can bdlow ; they arc proud of it

.LETTERS

142

the vapour imbibed is, therefore, mild, (u)
The Orientals pretend it agreeably irritates
the palate, while it gratifies the fmell. The
rich fmoke in lofty rooms, wdth a great num-
ber of windows, that give a thorough air.

When the vifit is alinofl; ended, a flave,
bearing a lilver plate, in which precious ef-
fences are burning, goes round to the com-
pany : each in turn perfumes the beard,
and, afterward, fprinkles rofe water on the
head and hands. This is the laft ceremo-
ny, and the guefls are permitted then to re-
tire. Thus, you fee. Sir, the ancient cuf-
tom, of perfuming the head and the beard,
as fung by the royal prophet, f'xj is not loft.
Anacreon, the father of the feftive ode, and
the pofft of the graces, inceftcintly repeats,
“ I delight to Iprinkle my body with pre-
cious perfumes, and crown my head with
rofes.” (y),

ftill, anJ, oh the birth of a fon, quit their own name,
and call thcmfelves the Father cf fuch a d?::.

(uj There are pipes fifteen feet long, tnd they are
commonly five or fix.

(xj Like the precious ointment upon the head, that
ran down upon the beard } even Aaron’s beard. Pf. 133.

(y) Anacreon, Ode XV

About

O N E G Y P T. 143

About noon the table is prepared, and the
viands brought, in a large tray of tinned
copper ; and, though not great variety, there
is great plenty. In the centre is a mountain
of rice cooked with poultry, and highly fea-
foiied with fpicc and faftron. Round this
are haflied meats, pigeons, fluffed cucum-
bers, delicious melons, and fruits. The roafl
meats are cut fmall, laid over with the fat of the
animal, feafoned with fait, fpitted, and done
on the coalsj it is tender and fucculent. The
guefls feat themfelves on a carpet, round the
table ; a flave brings water, in one hand,
and a bafon in the ether, to wafli. This is
an indilpenfable ceremony, where each per-
fen puts his hand in the diih, and where the
life of forks is unknown ; it is repeated
w'hen the meal is ended. The cufloms of
the Ball appear to be very ancient.

Menelaus, and the beauteous Helen, hav-
ing loaded Telemachus and Piiilfratus with
gifts, gave them a hofpitablc banquet.

Ai'id now when through the royal dome they pals’d,

** Higlj on a throne the King each If ranger plac’d.

“ A golden ew’er th’ attendant damfel brings,

** Replete with water from the cryltal fpriogs.

•« With

*44

LETTERS

** With odious flreams the fliining vafe fapplies
** A filyer laver, of capacious fize.

** They wafh. The tables in fmbr order fpread,

•• The glitt’ring canifters are <aown*d with bread :

" «c>Viands of various kinds allure the tafte

** Of choiceft fort and favour, rich repaft 1’* f’xj

The manner in which the ion of Thetis
received the Greek deputies, very much re-
iembled that in which the Egyptians treat
their guefls.

Achilles ftarting, as the chiefs he fpyM,
l^eap’d iiom his feat—

The chiefs beneath his roof he led.

And plac’d in feats with purple carpets fpread.

— — ** Patroclus o’er the blazing fire
** Heaps in a brazen vale three chines entire t
■* The brazen vafe Antomedon fuftains,

** Which flelh of porket, Iheep, and goat contains :

** Achilles at the genial fisall prelides,

** The parts transfixes, and with Ikill divides.

** Mean while Patroclus fweats the fire to raife $

** The tent is brightned with the riling blaze :

** Then, when the languid flames at length fubfide,

** He flrows a bed of glowing embers wide,

** Above the coals the fmoaking fragments turns,

** And^rinkles lacred laic from lifted urns;

With bread the glitt’ring canillers they load,

** Which round the board Menescius* fon bellowed ;

^zj Pope’s Odyllcy, book XV.

The French reads “ beds of repofe” and the au-
thor adds, in a note, ** Thefe were fofas of the Orien-
** taJs, which lerved them by turns as feats and beds.” T.

•• Himfelf

6 N E Q V I* T. *45

•* Himlelf oppos’d t’Ulydes full in fight,

•* Each portion parts, and orders ev’ry rite.

The firlt fat ofPrings, to th* immortals due,

** Amidft the greedy flames Patroclus threw ;

•* Then each, indulging in the Ibcial fisaft,

** His thirfl and hunger foberly repreft.” fcj

A poet of lefs genius than Homer would
have fuppofed his fublime defcriptions dif>
figured by fuch minutiae; but how inefiU
mablc are they to us ! How do they teach us
the fimplicity of ancient manners ! A fimpli-
city lofl to Europe, but fiill exifiing in the
Eafl.

After dinner, the Egyptians retire to the
harem, where they Humber fome hours amidft
their wives and children. A commodious
and agreeable place of repoft is luxury to
them. Thus Mahomet, who neglected no-
thing that might (educe, acquainted with the
wants and inclinations of men, tells them
** the inhabitants of paradife enjoy the fweets
** of repofe, and have a place moft delight-
** ful to deep in at noon.” (ifj,

(h) The French again reads ** laid hands on the vi-
ands ;** and the author fays in his note, ** No doubt they

took it with their fingers, as is piadlircd at .prefent.” T.

( c) Pope’s Iliad, book IX.

(d) Coran, chap, XXV.

VoL. I, L

The

146 tETTERS

The poor, having neither fofa nor harem,
lie down on the mat on which they have
dined. Thus Jefus Chrift, at the laft (up-
per, fuffered his beloved difciple to repofe
his head upon his boibm ^ ej.

It is cuftomary in the evening, to go on
the water, or breathe the frefti air on the
banks of the Nile, beneath the orange and
{ycamore (hades. An hour after fun-fet fup-
per is ferved, confifting of rice, poultry, ve-
getables, and fruits, which are very falutary
during the heats : the ftomach requires the(e,
and would rejeft more folid food. Mode-
ration in eating is the virtue of the cli-
mate.

Such is the ordinary life of the Egyptians.
Our (hews, plays, and pleafures, are to them
unknown ; a monotony which, to a Euro*
pean, would be death, is delight to an
Egyptian. Their days are pad in repeating
the fame thing, in following the fame cuf-
toms, without a wi(h or a thought beyond.
Having neither drong padions, nor ardent
hopes, their minds know not laditude : this
is a torment re(erved for thofe who, unable

to

ffj John XIII. 23.

• N EGYPT.

*47

to moderate the violence of their de/Ires^ or
fatisfy their unbounded wants, are weary
every where, and exift only where they are
not.

I have the honour to be, &c.

LETTERS

S48

LETTER XIIL

l^be paternal authority of the ancient patri-
archs perfe5ily prcfer'-jed in Rgypt : the man-
ner in which the father of a family governs
bis children^ and the reJpeSl paid to age.

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo*

Xj. I S T O R Y places the infancy of human
nature in the Eafl; here paternal authority
began^ and here its rights are Aill preferved.
A father enjoys all the titles nature bellows ;
the head, the judge, the pontiff, he commands
his family, terminates their differences, and
offers up the facrifices of the Courban Bei-
ram, (f) Each family forms a fmall ilate,

of

(f) A. Mahometan feftival, when each father of a
family offers up a facrihee, proportionate to his means.
The rich immolate fiieep and oxen \ the poor obey
the command, by cutting the throat of a pigeon. This
feaft, held folcmn by the Mahometans, happens fix
weeks after the Ramadan, and rec^ls to mind the
Jewilh paflbver.

Mahomet, unable to abolifE facrifices, divinely autho-
rize in the Eaft, recommeiips them in the chapter of

the

ON EGYPT.

149

of which the father is king ; the members
of it, attached to him by the ties of blood,
acknowledge and fubmit to his power. Be-
fore his tribunal their difputes are brought,
and his fentence, terminating them, reftores
peace and order. The eldefl holds the fcep-
tre, experience is bis guide, except in what
regards his houfehold regulation, in which he
follows the law that cuflom preferibes.

The children are educated in the women’s
apartment, and do not conxo into the hall,
efpecially w'hen flrangers are there. Young
people are filent when in this hall ; if men
grown they are allowed to join the converla-
tion: but when the Sheik fgj begins to
ipeak they ceafe, and attentively liften ; if he
enters an alTembly, all rife: they give him
way in public, and every where fhew him
eileem and relpefi;. In the time of Herodotus

the Pilgrimage of Mecca ; but, that he mi^ht fam^ify a
cuftom idolatry had corrupted, he commanded the invo-
cation of God over the flain animal, and added thele
remarkable words, ** God accepts neither the flelh
** nor blood of viflims, but is pleafed with the piety of
** thole who facrifice them/* Ceran,

(gj This title, which fignifies elder, is given to the
moft ancient of the family s ai^, alfo, to tfaofe who apper-
tain to the law*

L3

thele

LETTERS

ISO

the{e manners fubfifted in Egypt, (h) and the
deijx)tifm under which it groans ferves to
preferve them. The neck of its inhabitants
bows beneath a yoke of iron. Publlckly to
difplay wealth would be criminal i whatever
can excite the avarice of its tyrants is cam*
fully concealed, and there is a fear even of
£;eming fortunate. Within the family walls,
only, tranquillity and happinels are to be
found; and, as the union of its branches
gives fafety, the common interef): joins with
brotherly love to maintain harmony. The
facred laws of nature, in their primitive pu-
rity, are here obferved. A numerous poile-
rity often rehdes under the fame roof; the
children and grandchildren come and pay .
their common father a daily tribute of vene-
ration and love : the pleafure of being be-
loved and refpe£ted, in proportion as age in-
crea&s, makes him forget he grows old ; the
content of his heart iparkles in his eyes, and
ferenity fmooths the wrinkles of his forehead ;

(h) Like the Lacedaemonians, who are the only people
among the Greeks that pay proper homage to old age,
the £g}'ptians give way to thofe who are older than them-
felves, and rife from their feats when they enter. Hero-
dotus. Euterpe.

he

ON EGYPT.

* 5 *

he is chearful and jocular; and, while his
youthful defcendants wear the moft modeft
garments, he is decked in the gayefl: colours.
C i) Happy in the boibm of his family, when
on the borders of the grave, he perceives not
the approach of death, and reclines to ever*
laAing reft amidft the embraces of his chil-
dren. Long do they mourn his lofs,
and each week ftrew his tomb with flow-
ers, fk) where they recite their funeral
hymns. The Egyptians have loft the art
of embalming, but not the feelings which
gave it birth.

Among poliftied nation's, where the fa-
mily is more ieparated, age is not ib
much reipe<fted ; nay, it is often difgraceful.
The ftlver hsured Sire is often obliged to
be filent, in prefence of haughty youth;
or aftiime the manners of a boy, to become
fupportable. In proportion as the burthen
of time is felt, and the pleafures of life dimi-
nifh, he beholds himfelf an incumbrance even

(i) The brighteft colours are referved for the aged, in
Egypt, and the youth of corrupted manners, only, are
audacious enough to wear fumptuous habits.

(k) To ftrew odoriferous plants over, and recite pray-
ers at, the tomb of relations is a cuftom in Egypt.

L 4>

to

> 5 *

I, E T T E R S

to tho{e who, but for him, had never been.
They refufe him coniblation when he needs
it moft, and (hut him from their hearts : the
cold hand of age withers his faculties, which
the kindly flame of filial love warms not. In
fuch nations, the grey haired, feeling father,
dies long before he is carried to the grave.

Let us draw a veil over a pi<fture which,
thank heaven, is not univerfal. I was im-
pelled to make the parallel by the affe(5ting
fcenes I here each day witnefs, where the re-
verend patriarch, with his beari*. floating on
his breaft, fmiles in frigid age, on his grand-
children, who approach him w'ith their ca-
relTcs. He beholds four generations eager
to pay him ail filial duty, and his heart ex-
pands ; he delights in life to its lad moment.
Yes, Sir, thefe people have, in ignorance,
prcferved the flmplicity of ancient manners ;
they know not our arts and fciences, but the
fweeteft ienfatlons of nature, which books
teach not, they know, revere, and enjoy.

What I have faid might be fupported by
a thoufand examples. 1 will feledt only one
which is well known. When M. Maille^
was Conful ( 1 ) at Grand Cairo, the Jefuits

0 ) About a hundred years ago.

perfuadcd

ON E G Y y T. ts3

perfuaded the court of France to fend for
Coptic children to Paris, ( m) and there ediu,
cate them in the Catholic faith, that they
might return and convert their heretical na.
tion. Money and promifes obtained the con-
fent of fome fathers, extremely poor ; but,
•\vhen the time of ieparation came, paternal
tendernefs revived in all its force, and they
rather chofe to remain wretched than to
purchafe eafe by a facrifice too painful to the
heart.

-rm.

1 have" the honour to be,

f mj Copts are the ancient inhabitants of Egypt, and
Jacobine Chriftians ; 1 lhall fpeak nK>re fully of thea»
liercafter.

LEX

*54

LETTERS

LETTER XIV.

An ccc9unt of the Almat, or Egyptian Im--
provi/atoret their education^ dancings mujicp
and the pajjionate delight the natives take
in thefe a£lrejfes»

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

Egypt, sir, as wcll as Italy, has her
improvifatore, called Almai, or Learned ;
which title they obtain by being more care-
fully educated than other women. They
form a clafs very famous in the country, to
be admitted into which it is neceflary to
podefs a fine voice, eloquence, the rules of
grammar, ('n ) and be able to compofe and
&ag extempore verfes, adapted to the oc-
cadon. The Almai know all new fongs by
rote, their memoiy is ilored with the

( nj The quantity In Arabic and Latin verfes is the
fame, to which the former adds the various meafure and
rhime of the French. Thefe advantages cannot unite,
except when a language is well fixed.

beft

q N E G Y P T. iss

bcft Moalr (o) and tales, they are prefcnt
at all feftivals, and are the ehief ornament
of banquets. They place them in a raifed
orcheftra, or pulpit, where they fing during
the feaft, after which they defcend, and
form dances, which no way refemble ours.
They are pantomimes, that reprefent the
common incidents of life. Love is their
ufual fubjedt. The fupplenefs of thefe

(e) Elegiac fongs, which bewail the death of a hero,
or the difafters of love. Abulfeda has preferved the
concl'iSoii'^f**’ ,nioal, fung by Ommia, over the ca-
*vity in which his kinfmen had been thrown, after the
defeat of Beder.

Have I yet not wept enough over the noble fpns of
the Princes of Mecca ?

1 beheld their broken bones, and, like the turtle in
the deep recefs of the foreft, filled the air with my lac
mentations.

Proftrate on earth, unfortunate modiers, mingle
your fighs with my tears.

And ye, who follow their obfequies, fing dirges, ye
wives, interrupted by your groans.

What happened to the princes of the people at Beder,
the chiefs of tribes !

The aged aiii the youthful warrior, there, lay naked
and lifcicfs.

How is the vale of Mecca changed ?

Thefe defolate plains, thefe wUJernelles, feem to par-
take my gricf.~

Vie de Mahomet y par Savory y pare 83.

dancers

LETTERS

dancers bodies is inconceivable, and the
dexibility of their features, wrbich take im-
preffions charadteriftic of the parts they
play at will, aftonifhing. The indecency
of their attitudes is often exceilive ; each
look, each gefture, (peaks ; and in a man-
ner ib forcible as not poflibly to be mif^
underftood. They throw afide modefty
with their veils. When they begin to
dance, a long and very light iiik robe
floats on the ground, negligently girded
by a fafli; long black hair, pjprruff55T5i and
in trefles, defcends over their (boulders s
the (hift, traniparent as gauze, fcarcely con-
ceals the (hin : as the action proceeds the
various forms and contours, the body can
aflume ieem progreflive ; the found of the
flute, the caflanets, the tambour de bafquc,
and cymbals, regulate, increa(e, or flacken,
their fleps. Words, adapted to fuch like
fcenes, inflame them more, till they appear
intoxicated, and become frantic bacchantes,
^‘orgetting all tefetve, they ibcn wlioUy
abandon themfelves to the diibrder of their
:^nres, while an indelicate people, who wi(h
nothing (hould be left to the imagination,
redouble dieir applaufe.

Thefe

o N E G V P T.

Theie Almai are admitted into all lia<^
rems ; they teach the women the new
airs, recount amorous tales, and recite po-
ems, in their prefence, which are interell-
ing by being pictures of their own man-
ners. They learn them the myfteries of
their art, and inflruft them in lafcivious
dances. The minds of thefe women are
cultivated, their converfation agreeable, they
fpeak their language with purity, and, ha-
bitually addiiSling themfelves to poetry,
learn ♦’he -si oft winning and ibnorous modes
' of expreffion. Their recital is very grace-
ful; W’hen they fing, nature is their only
guide ; fbme of the airs 1 have heard from
them were gay, and in a light and lively
meafure, like fome of ours ; but their excel-
lence is moft feen in the pathetic. When
they rehearfe a moal, in the manner of
the ancient tragic ballad, by dwelling upon
ailedting and plaintive tones, they infpire
melancholy, which infenftbly augments, till
it melts in tears. The very Turks, ene-
mies as they are to the- arts, the Turks them-
felves, pafs whole nights in liftening to
them. Two people fing together, fbme-
times^ butf like their crcheilra, they are

always

1 st letter*

•1 ways in unifbn : accompaniments^ in mufic^
are only for enlightened nations j who«
wAi/e melody charms the ears wi/b to hare
the mind employed by a juO; and inven-
tive modulation. Nations, on the contrary,
whofe feelings are oftener appealed to than
their underftanding, little capable of catch-
ing the fleeting beauties of harmony, de-
light in thole Ample founds which im-
mediately attack the heart, without call-
ing in the aid of refledion to increafe fenfl-
bility.

The Ifraelites, to whom Egyptian man-
ners, by long dwelling in Egypt, were be-
come natural, alfb had their Almai. At
Jerufalem, as at Cairo, it feems, they
gave the women leflbns. St. Mark re--
lates a fa£fc which proves the power
of the Oriental dance over the heart of
man. (p)

** And when a convenient day was come,
that Herod on his birth-day made a
fupper to his lords, high captains, and
chief eflates of Galilee ;

And when the daughter of the faid

St. Mark, chap. vi. ver. ai-

Herodias

O N E G Y P T. 15^

Herodias came io, and danced, and
V pleafed Herod, and them that fat with
** him, the king fsdd unto the damfel,
^ A/k of me whatfbever thou wilt, and I
** will give it thee.

And he fware unto her, Whatfoever
** thou ihalt afk of me, I will give it
thee, unto the half of my kingdom.

** And (he went forth, and faid unto
her mother. What Hiall I alk, and Ihe
faid. The head of John the Baptift.

And fhe came in Araightway with
- hafte unto the king, and alked, faying,

** 1 will that thou give me by and by in
** a charger the head of John the Bap-
“ tift.

And immediately the king fent an
** executioner, and commanded his head
** to be brought, and he went and be*
headed him in the priibn.**

The Almai are prelent at marriage ce-
remonies, and precede the bride, playing
pn inftruments. They allb accompany fu-
nerals, at which they fing dirges, utter
groans and lamentations, and imitate every.
mark of grief and delpair. Their price is

high.

t E T T E R S

liigh> and they {eldom attend any huf
wealthy people^ and great Iqrds.

1 was lately invited to a iplendid fup-
per, which a rich Venetian merchant gave
the receiver - general of the finances of
Egypt. The Almai fung various airs, du-
ring the banquet, and afterwards the praifes
of the principal guefts. I was moft pleafed
by an ingenious allegory, in which Cupid
was the fuppofcd ' interlocutor. There was
play after fupper, and I perceived handfuls of
fequins were occafionally fenc to ihe fingers.
This feftival brought them fifty guinea^ac
leafi; they are not, however, always fo well
paid.

The common people have their Almai,
allb, who are a fecond order of thefe wo-
men, imitators of the firft ; but have nei-
ther their elegance, grace, nor knowledge^
They are ieen every where j the public
fquares and walks round Grand Cairo abound
with them ; the populace require ideas to
be conveyed with fiill lefs difguiie; de-
cency therefore will not permit me to de-
fcribe the licentioufnefs of their motions
and poilures, of which no idea can be

formed

ON EGYPT.

I6i

£>rmed but by feeing. The bdian Baya»
Seres are exemplarUy modeft* when com*
pared to the dancing girls of the Egyptians.
This» Sir, is the principal diverfion of
thefe people, and in which they greatly •
delight.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

Voi.I.

M

L £

1(2

I, E T T E R S

LETTER XV.

^he private life of the Egyptian womens their
inclinations^ morals, empltyments, pleafures,
the manner in vsbicb they educate their chil-
dren, and their cuftom (f weeping over the
tombs of their kindred, ifier having frewed
them with fowers and odoriferous plants.

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

I HAVE already. Sir, defcribed the mode .
of life of the men, but have faid little con-
cerning that of the women. This Oriental
refcrve will not pleaie a European j (q) 1
will, therefore, endeavour to give you a
general idea of female manners, in this coun-
try.

( 9 ) The Egyptians never mention their wives in con-
verfation i or, if obliged to fpeak of them, they fay the
mother of fuch a perfon, the miftrefs of the houfc, &c.
Good manners will not permit the vifitor to alk. How
does your wife do. Sir? But, in imitation of their
referve, it is necellary to fay. How does the mother of
fuch a perfon do ? And this they think an infult unlefs
alked by a kinfman, or an intimate friend. This 1
relate as perfe&ly charaAeriilic of Eaftern jealouly.

la

ON EGYPT.

163

In Europe, women a£k parts of great
confequence, and often reign fbvereigns on the
world’s vail theatre ; they influence man-
ners and morals, and decide on the mofl:
important events ; the fate of nations is fre-
quently in their hands. How different in
Egypt, where they are bowed down by the
fetters of flavery, condemned to fervitude,
and have no influence in public affairs. Their
empire is confined \vith;n the walls of the
harem. There are their graces and charms
entombed : the circle of their life extends
not beyond their own family and domeflic
duties, (r)

Their firfl care is to educate their children,
and a numerous pofierity is their mod fervent
wifli s public relpe.dt and the love of their
hufband are annexed to fruitfulnefs. This
is even the prayer of the poor, who earns
his bread by the fvveat of his brow j and,
did not adoption alleviate grief, when nature
is unkind, a barren woman would be incon>
fulable. The mother daily fuckles her child,

r (r) 'I'hc compiler Pomponius Mela pretends women
do the out-door bunncf«, in Egypt, and men that of the
houfehold. Every writer who has been in this country
diip roves the opinion.

M 2

whole

x 64 letters

whofe infant fniiles, added to frequent
pregnancy, recompences all the cares and
pains they incurred. Milk difeafes, and
thoie maladies which dry up the juices of
the youthful wife, who lends her off*spring
to be nurtured by a llranger, are here
unknown. That mothers Ihould fuckle their
young is a law as ancient as the world i it is
exprefsly commanded by Mahomet. ** Let
** mothers fuckle . their children full two
** years, if the child does not quit the breaft j
** but Ihe lhall be permitted to wean it with
** the conlent of her hulband.** Ulylles,
in the Elyhan fields, beholds his mother, his
tender mother, there, who had fed him with
her milk and nurtured him in infancy, ftj

When obliged by circumftances to take a,
nurfe, they do not treat her as a ftranger ; ihebe«
comes one of the family, and pafles her days
amidft the children Ihe has fuckled, by whons
ihe ischerifhed andhonoured as a lecond mother.

Racine, who pollefled not only genius but
all the knowledge neceflary to render genius
confpicuous, ftored with the learning of the
fineft works of Greece, and well acquainted
with oriental manners, gives Phcedra her

fs) Conm. (tj Odyfley, book sodii.

nurie

O N E G Y P T. I6i

nurfe as her Ible confidante. The wretched
queen, infedted by a guilty pafiion ihe could
not conquer, while the fatal fecret opprefied
a heart that durft not unload itfelf^ could not
reiblve to fpeak her thoughts to the tender
CEnone, till the latter had faid

Craelle, quand ma fbi vous a-t-elle de 9 tte ?

Songez-vousj qu’en naiflant, mes bras vous ont r^ae I

When, cruel queen, by me were yon decmved 7

Did 1 not firit receive you in tbefe arms ?

The harem is the cradle and (chool of
infiincy. The new-born feeble being is not
there fwaddled and filleted up in a fwathe,
the iburce of a thoufand dileales. Laid naked
on a mat, expoled in a vaft chamber to the
pure air, he breathes freely, and with his
delicate limbs fprawls at pleafure. The new
element in which he is to live is not
entered with pain and tears. Daily bathed,
beneath his mother's eye, he grows apace %
free to adt, he tries his coming powers, rolls,
crawls, riles, and, Ihould he fall, cannot
much hurt himlelf, on the carpet, or mat;,
which covers the floor, (u)

(uj The rooms are paved with large flag flxmes,
wafhed once a week, and covered in fummer with a reed
mat, of artful workmanlhip, and a carpet in winter.

Ms He

166 BETTERS

He is not banifhed his fathers houle when
feven years old, and fcnt to college with the
lofs of health and innocence ; he does not^
tis true, acquire much learning ; he perhaps
can only read and write ; but he is healthy,
robuft, fears God, rclpevts old age, has filial
piety, and delights in hofpitality j vrhich
virtues, continually pradlifed in his family,
remain deeply engraven in his heart.

The daughter’s education is the lame.
Whalebone and bu/ks, which martyr Euro-
pean girls, they know not ; the}^ run naked,
or only covered with a fhift, till fix years
old, and the drefs they afterwards wear con-
fines none of their limbs, but fuifers the
body to take its true form, and nothing is
more uncommon than ricketty children, and'
crocked people. Man rifes in all his majefiy,
and w’oman difplays every charm of perlbn,
in the Eaft. In Georgia and Greece, thofe
fine marking outlines, thole admirable forms,
which the Creator gave the chief of his works
are beft preierved. Apelles would ftill find
models worthy of his pencil there.

The care of their children does not wholly
employ the w’pmen j every other domefiic
concern is theirs : they overlook their houfe-

hold.

ON EGYPT.

167

hold, and do not think themlelves debaled by
preparing, themlelves, their own food, and
that of their hulbands. Former cuftoms, ftill
fubliding, render thele cares duties. Thus
Sarah haflened to bake cakes upon the hearth, '
when angels vifited Abraham^ who performed
the rights of holpitality. Menelaus thus
entreats the departing Telemachus : —

** Yet flay, my friends, and in your chariot take
** The nobleft prefents that our love can make :

Mean-time, commit we to our women’s care
** Some choice domeftic viands to prepare ; {"xj

Subject to the immutable laws by which
cuftom governs the Eafl, the women do not
alTociate with men, not even at table, (y)
where the union of fexes produces mirth,
and wit, and makes food more fweet. When
the great incline to dine with one of their
wives, file is informed, prepares the apart-
ment, perfumes it with precious eilences,
procures the mod: delicate viands, and receives
her lord with the utmoft attention and reipe^t.
Among the common people, the women
ulually (land, or dt in a corner of the room,
while the hulband dines, often hold the bafbn

(x) Pope's Odyiley, book xv.

(y) Sarah, who prepared the dinner for Abraham and
hisguefts, fat not at table, but remained in her tent.

M 4 for

LETTERS

i6a

for him to waih, and ierve him at table, (x)
Cufloms like theie> which the Europeans
rightly call barbarous^ and exclaim againft
with juitice, appear £o natural here, that they
do not fuipeft it can be otherwife ellewhere.
Such is the power of habit over man : what
for ages has been he fuppofes a law of nature.

Though thus employed, the Egyptian
women have much leifure, which they fpend
among their Haves, embroidering falhes,
making veils, tracing deligns to decorate their
Ibfas, and in ipinning. Such Homer painted
the women of his times,

** But not as yet the fatal news had ipread
** To fair Andromache, of HeAor dead ;

** As yet no mei&nger had told his fate,

** Nor e*en his ftay without the Sctean gate.

** Far in the clofe Kceffes of the dome,

** Fenfive Ihe ply’d the melancholy loom ;

A growing work » .i|-:oyed her fecret hours,

** Confns’dly gay with intermingled flow*rs.

Her fair>hair’d handmaids heat the brazen um,

«* Thp liath prepating for her Lord’s retnm (a)

(k) I lately dined widi »n Italian, who had married
9fi Egyptian woman, and aBumed dieir manners, having
lived here long. His wife and fifter>in>law ftood in my
prefenpe, and it was with difficulty I prevauled on them
to fit at table with us, where they were extremely timid
•Ad difeoneerted.

(^) Pole’s. Iliad, hoede xriL

Trieipachus,

ON EGYPT. 169

Telemachus, feeing Penelope (peak to the
fuitors on affairs to which he thought her
incompetent, fays

** O royal mother ! ever-honoured name !

** Permit me (cries Telemachns) to claim

** A fon’s jufl right. No Grecian prince bat I
Has pow’r this bow to grant, or to deny.

** Of all that Ithaca’s rough hills contain.

And all wide Elis* coarfer>breeding plain,

** To me alone my father’s arms defcend ;

** And mine alone they are to give or lend.

** Retire, oh Qpeen ! thy honlhold talk refnme.

Tend, with thy maids, thelabonrs of the loom |

** The bow, the darts, and arms of chivalry,

Thefe cares to man belong, and mod to me.**

Pope^s Od}dIey, bookxxi.

Tht: Queen, far from being ofiended at
this freedom, retired, admiring the manly
‘wifdom of her fon.

Labour has its relaxations ; pleafure is not
bunifbed the harem. The nurle recounts
the hiiloryof pafl times, with a feeling which
her hearers participate ; chearful- and paf*
fionate fongs are accompanied by the flaves,
with the tambour de bafque and caflanets.
Sometimes the Almai come, to enliven the
fcene with their dances, and afi^i^ng recitals,
and by relating, amorous romances i and, at
the clofe of the day, there is a repaft, in which

ex^uifite

LETTERS?

I7d

exquifite fruits and perfumes are ierved with
profudon. Thus do they endeavour to charm
away the dulnefs of captivity.

Not that they are wholly priibners ; once or
twice a week they are permitted to go to the
bad)* and vilit female relations and friends.
To bewail the dead is, likewiie, a duty they
are allowed to perform. 1 have often leen dif*
trailed mothers round Grand Cairo, reciting
funeral hymns over the tombs they had ftrew-
ed with odoriferous plants. Thus Hecuba and
Andromache f b) lamented over the body of

Hedtor i

(h) \ will infert the complaints of Andromache and
Fatima, the daughters of Mahomet, that you. Sir, may
compare them.

ANDROMACHE.

** And, Oh my Heflor ! Oh my Lord ! ihe cries,

** Snatch'd in thy bloom from thele deliring eyes !

** Thou to the difinal realms for ever gone !

** And I abandon'd, defolate, alone !

** An only fbn, once comfort of our pains,

** Sad prodnfl now of haplefs love remains !

** 'Never to manly age that fi>n fliall rife,

** Or with encreafing graces glad my eyes :

** For Oion now, (her great defender flain)

** Shall fink a finoaking rain on the plain.

** Who now prote^ her wives with guardian care t
** Who feves her infants from the rage of war ?

** Now hollile fleets mnft waft thofe infimts o'er,

** Thofe wives mufi waft 'em to aibrrign fhorel

« Thou

OK j: G Y ? T.

Hedlor ; and thus F atima and Sophia wept over
Mahomet. cuflom was not unknown

to

** Thoa too. my fon ! to barb*rous climes lltall go,

** The fad companion of thy modier’s woe ;

** Driv’n hence a flave before the Ti£tor*s Iwordf
** Condemn’d to toil for fbme inhnman lord.

** Or elfe fbme Greek, whole father preft the p lain,

** Or Ion, or brother, by great Hedor flain ;

** In Heflor’s blood his vengeance lhall enjoy,

** And hurl thee headlong fropi the tQ!jv*rs of Trt^.

** For thy flem father never Ipar’d a fbe :

** Thence all thele tears, and all this fcene of woe !

** Thence, many evils his fad parents bore.

His parents many, but his conlbit more.

** Why gav’fl thou not to me thy d}dng hand ?

** And why receiv’d not I-thy laft command ?

** Some word thou would’ft have fpoke, which ladly dear ,
My foul might keep, or utter with a tear ;

** Which never, never could be loft in air,

“ Fix’d in my heart, and oft repeated there !

** Thus to her weeping maids Ihe makes her moan g
** Her weeping handmaids echo groan for groan.”

Pope’s Iliad, book xxir.

FATIMA.

Oh my father ! Minifter of the moft' high ! Pro-
** phet of the moft merciful God ! And art thou gone ?
** With thee divine revelation is gone alfo ! The angel
<* Gabriel has, henceforth, for ever taken his flight into
** the high heavens ! Power fupreme ! hear my laft
** prayer ; haftdn to unite my Ibul to his ; let me behold
** his face ; deprive me not of the fruit of his righteouf*
** nefs, nor of his interceffion at the day of judgement.**

The«

LETTERS

172

to the Romans ; they had their funeral urns
firewed with cyprefs. How charmingly does
the elegant Horace fhed flowers over that of
Quini^ilius ! How aflFe€ling» how paflionate^
is the ode he addrefles to Virgil on the death
of their common friend, (c) Among Euro-
pean

Then taking a little of the dull from the cofEn, and
putting it to her face, Ihe adds,

** Who, having ftnelt die dull of his tomb, can ever
** find odour in the moft exquifite perfumes ! Alas !
agreeable fenfations are all extincl in my heart ! The
clouds of forrow envelop me, and will change the
V brighteft day to difmal night !**

Vie de Mabomety par Savory^ page 235.

(e) ** Wherefore reftrain die tender tear?

** Why bluih to weep for one fo dear ?

** Sweet mule, of melting voice and lyre,

** Do thon the monmfal long inljpire.

** QuinfliUns— funk to endlefs reft,

** With death’s eternal ileep oppreft !

** Oh 1 when Ihall faith, of fool fincere,

<* Of juftioe pure the filter ^r,

** Andmodefty, nn^iotted mud,

** And truth in ardels gnile array’d,

** Among the race of human kind
** An equal to Quinftilias find?

** How did the good, the virtuous mourn,

** And pour thnr lorrows o’er his nrn ?

But, Vir^, thine the londeft firain,

** Yet all thy pioos grief is vain*

« In

ON EGYPT.

*73

pean nations, where ties of kindred are much
relaxed, they rid themlelves all they can of the
religious duties which ancient piety paid the
dead ; but the realbn why we die unregretted
is becaufe we have had the misfortune to live
unbeloved.

The Egyptian women receive each other’s
vifits very afFedtionately : when a lady enters
the harem, the miflrels riles, takes her hand,
predes it to her bofom, kilTes, and makes her
fit down by her fide; a Have hailens to
take her black mantle ; Ihe is entreated to
be at cafe, quits her veil and her outward

** In vain do you the gods implore
Thy lov’d Qpinfiilius to reftore,

** Whom on far other terms they gave,

** By nature fated to the grave.

** What though you can the lyre command
And fweep its tones with Ibfter hand
** Than Orpheus, whole harmonious long
** Once drew the liftening trees along,

** Yet ne'er -returns the vital heat
** The ihadowy form to animate;

** For when the ghoft-compelling god
** Forms his black troops with horrid rod.

He will not, lenient to the breath
** Of prayer, unbar the gates of death.

4t hard, but patience muft endure,

** And Ibothe the woes it cannot cure.*'

FaAMcis’s Hoaacs, ode jodr.

and

LETTERS

*74

ihift, ( d) and difcovers a floating robe, tied round
the waifl: with a fafh, which perfedtly dif-
plays her fhape. She then receives compliments
according to their manner, (ej ** Why my
** mother, or my fifler, have you been fo long

abient ? We fighed to lee you ! Your pre-
** fence is an honour to our houle ; it is the
** happinels of our lives I’* &c.

Slaves prefent coffee, fherbet, and confec-
tionary ; they laugh, talk, and play ; a large
difh is placed on the fofa, on which are oranges,
pomegranates, bananas, and excellent melons.
Water, and rofe-water, mixed, are brought in
a ewer $ and with them a filver bafbn to wafli
the hands, and loud glee and merry converla-
tion leafbn the meal. The chamber is per-
fumed by wood of aloes, in a brazier; and.
the repafl ended, the Haves dance to the found
of cymbals, with whom the miflrelles often
mingle. At parting they feveral times repeat,

fdj A habit of ceremony, which covers the drefs, and
except the collar, greatly refembles a ihift. It is
thrown ofF, on fitting down, to be more at cafe, and
is called, in Arabic, camis»

(e) Such titles as madam, mifs, or miftrefs, are un-
known in Egypt. A woman advanced in years is called
my mother; when young, my filler ; and, if a girl,
daughter of the houfe.

God

ON EGYPT.

^7S

God keep you in health ! Heaven grant you
a numerous offspring ! Heaven preferve your
children $ the delight and glory of your fa-
milyl /yj

While a vihtor is in the harem, the huf-
band mull: not enter; it is the afylum of
hoipitality, and cannot be violated without
fatal confequences ; a cherifhed right, which
the Egyptian women carefully maintain, be-
ing interefted in its prefcrvation. A lover,
diiguiied like a woman, may be introduced
into the forbidden place, and it is necef-
fary he fliould remain undifcovered ; death
would otherwiie be his reward. In this
country, where the paffions are excited by
the climate, and the diihculty of gratifying
.them, love often produces tragical events.

The Turkifh women go, guarded by their
eunuchs, upon the water alfb, and enjoy the
charming profpeds of the banks of the Nils.
Their cabins are pleafant, richly embellifhed,
and the boats well carved and painted. They
are known by the blinds over the windows,

. { f) 1 mention thefc wifhes, very ancient in the Baft,
becaufe they are found often iii the Holy Scriptures.

(g)\ have faid harem iigniiies forbidden place.

and

176 LETTERS

and the muiic by which they are accompa*
nied.

When they cannot go abroad they endea-
vour to be merry in thnr priibn. Toward
fun-ietting they go on the terrace, and take
the freih dr among the flowers which are
there carefully reared. Here they often bathe ;
and thus, at once, enjoy the cool, limpid
water, the perfume of odoriferous plants, the
balmy air, and the ftarry holt which fhine in
the firmament.

Thus Bathfheba bathed, when David be-
held her from the roof of his palace, fhj

The Turks oblige the public criers to fwear
they will fhut their eyes when they call the
people to prayer, that their wives may not be
feen from the high minarets. Another more
certain precaution, which they take, is to
choofe the blind to perform this pious func-
tion.

Such, Sir, is the ufual life of the Egyp-
tian women. Their duties are to educate
their children, take care of their household,
and live retired with their family: their
^eafures to vifit, give feafis^ in which th^

oibn

{bjit Samuel, xi* 2.

O N E G Y P T.

«7P

often yield to excefiive mirth and licentiouf-
nefsx go on the water, take the air in orange
groves, and liilen to the Almai. They deck
themfelves as carefully to receive their ac*
quaintance as French women do to allure the
men. Ufually mild and timid, they become
daring and furious when under the dominion
of violent love : neither locks nor grim
keepers can then prelcribe bounds to their
paiiions; which, though death be fuipended
over their head, they fearch the means to
gratify, and are feldom unfuccersful.

I have the honour to he,

K

Vol.L

LET-

17 *

LETTERS

LETTER XVr.

Narrathe a love adventure^ vtbkb happened

at 'Rsfetta*

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo*

^ 1 "^

X H A T I may finilh the portrait I hare
begun, I will relate a love adventure. Sir,
which lately happened at Roletta $ and this
will give you Ibme idea of the ftrength of the
pafhon in this country* Fads are better than
arguments to fhew the manners of a people.
I Ihall be careful that no Indecency ihall per-
vade tbe pit^ure ; but, if the colours are glow-
ing, the nature of the fubjedl; muA plead my
cxcufe.

Haflan, an old jealous Turk, had married
a Georgian girl of fixteen, and appointed
guards to watch her. But where is there
guard Co vigilant as love ? This wealthy lord
podeded fine lands near Rofetta ; he had a
magnj[ficent garden a quarter of a league from
the town, wliither he permitted the youth-
ful

ON EGYPT.

ful Jemily> his wife» to go, and take the
evening air. Slaves of both lexes always
attended her. The men watched the walls,
and ftood centinel at the gates ; the women
waited on her within, where Ihe languidly
ilrayed among orange bowers. The mur-
muring ilreams, the frefh verdure, the ten-
der plaints of the turtle doves, which people
thelb aiylums, but increafed her melancholy*
She plucked fruit, and eat, without appetite |
ihe gathered flowers, and fmelt, without
pleafure. As fhe was gravely walking one
evening by the river fide, veiled, and fur-
rounded by her flaves, to go to her garden,
fhe perceived a European, who lately had
arrived at Rofetta. His drefs being fo difle-
*rent from the Turkifli, made him remark-
able. (i) The colours of youth were vivid
on his cheeks, which were not yet tanned by
the fun, and drew her attention. She paf-
fed flowly, and let her fan fall, that fhe
might have a pretence to flop a moment, (k)

(i) Europeans drefs as they pleafc in Rofetta j but there
is danger in wandering from the city in the European
habit.

(k) Their fans are of feathers, half circular, in a
wooden handle.

N 2 Her

Ste letters

. Her eyes met his^ and the look went to her
heart; the air, the Hiape, the features of the
ftranger were imprinted in her memory ; and
tiie impofiibility of Ipeaking to, the dread of
feeing him no more, gave her a painful fenie
of flavery. Thus condraint kindled mo-
mentary inclination into impetuous pafilon.
Scarcely had flie arrived, among the arbours
of her garden, before flie efcaped from the
croud ; and, taking one of her women afide,
in whom the had mofl confidence, faid,
“ Didtl thou perceive the young ftranger ?
Didd thou behold his bright eyes, and how
he looked upon me ? O, my friend ! My
dear Zetfa ! Go, find liim ; tell him to walk,
the day after to-morrow, among the orange
groves, ’vithout the garden, befide fie wood
of dates, wlicre the wall is lowed. Say, I
wifli to fee, to ipeak to him : only bid him
fliun the watchful eyes of my pitilefs keepers.’*

The mefllige was punctually delivered, and
the European unguardedly promifed ; which
promife the fight of approaching danger made
him break. The flave, difguifed as a tradef-
woman, w'ent a fecond time, and afked him
why he had not kept his word. His cxcuies

were

ON EGYPT.

tSx

were various, and he fixed a diftant time,
that he might have leifure to refle<9: on con--
fequences. Redc<Stion again vanquifhed paf-’
fion 5 the fight of an impaled wretch cooled-
his fortitude, and he went not to the rendez--
vous.

Zetfa returned once more, bitterly re-
proached him, defcribed how ardently her
miflrefs loved him, and hated the old HafTan,
praifcd her charms, her beauty, and lamented
the misfortunes of a perfbn flolen from her
parents, and fold to a barbarian. The youth,
reduced by her difcourfe, fwore that, on the
morrow, he would be under the arbour an
hour after fun-fet.

The beauteous Jemily, ever believing,
though ever deceived, had been to the bath.
Her black locks, a contrail to the pure white
of her complexion, fprinkled with rofe- water,
hung in tredes that reached to the ground }
her robes were richly perfumed j an embroi-
dered fafh (hewed her (lender waifl, and
bDund thefe her light robes, which, having
none of the fliifnefs of art, took the contour of
her body. Her mantle and her veil were
thrown ahde } an Indian handkerchief, adorn-
ed with pearls, encircled her head. Though

N 3 every

LETTERS

(every grace of youth attended her, (he Rill
feared (he was not beauteous enough. Impa-
tiently {he waited, fbmetimes haftening her
iieps, ibmetimes as fuddenly (topping, and at
others, extending herfelf on the ground, rolled
among, and cruihed, the tender flowers.
The lea(t noife made her (hudder, and glance
toward the appointed arbour. The fun was
|io more (een; the bright (tars appeared,
and night, here (b delightful, (b magnificent,
whole cooling preience reltores power to
the languid body, and all its energy to 'the
(bul, had (pread her veil over nature, and her
dark (hades over the bower where fighed
the amorous Jemily. Each breath, each
ruflllng leaf, brought fear and hope alter-
nately to her heart. Sufpence, that torturer
of impatient love, gave her a thoufand racking
doubts.

The hour of returning came, and a third
time (he faw herfelf deceived. Fury takes
place of afiedlion; (he breathes vengeance,
determines to have the life of the peijurer ;
but, having more love than vanity, hope and
defire (bon extingui(b wrath. — *' Noi he
(hall not die. Go, go, my dear Zetfa,
bear him the words of peace ; diipel his

fears.

ON EGYPT. xfj

fearSy deicribe my love« and bid him come
** and learn its value.’*

Zetfa returned to the European, calmed
his apprehenfions, and paffionately defcribed
the tendemefs of her miflreis, and the happi-
neis that awaited him. Incapable of with-
ftanding piAures fb iedu6i:ive, the imprudent
youth once more promiied ; but, left to him-
felf, the dread of an ignominious death once
more made him violate his word. Patience
itlelf has a period; that of Jemily was long:
nine months Ihe folicited a man whom (he
had feen but a moment; finding in afiec-
tion new excufes ; one means failing, purfu-
ing another; ftill unable to fubmit to the
lois of him ihe had taken ib much pains to
.obtain. One evening, after (bedding tears of
bitternefs, forgetting herielf in the grove, and
thinking only of her lover, whole image in-
cellantly purfued her, Hafian, tired of waiting,
treated her harflily. The charm was broken ;
(he retired, furious, to her apartment : but,
though defpairing Love breathed vengeance,
yet the ientence he pronounced he Ibftened.

Once more, go,” laid Ihe, to her ^ithful
Zetfa ; ** to-morrow at day-break ; find the
** perfidious European, and bear hin^ thefe

N 4 my

l 84 L E T T E R; S

*/ my laft words. — I faw thee^ Aranger^ ■
thought thou hadf); fenfibility, and my
heart panted to be thine. Nine months
** thou haft deceived me j perjury to thee is
iport. But, beware ; thy life is in my hands,
** (m ) and I am determined. HaiTan will de-
•* part for Faoua on Thurfday ; he will return
** late, and 1 ftiall be in the garden. Come
** and receive thy pardon, or a flave lhail
bring me thy head. Jemily fwears by
the Prophet, if longer neglected, to be
•* revenged,”

Zetfa faithfully reported theie words, and
the European hefitated no longer. Death,
with promifed pleafure, he preferred, made
the flave a prefect, conjured her to calm the
anger of Jemily, and faithfully promifed he .
would be at the rendezvous a little after fun-
fet. He was not, however, without his fears ;
perhaps he was to be punifhed for former per-
fidies. Could a Turkifh woman find pleafure
in pardoning ; or does wounded pride for-
give ? The day comes, and his fears encreafe:
a thoufand wandering thoughts, a thoufand
fenfations confound and diftradt his mind.^

(m) A Turkifh woman may eafily have a foreigner
afiaiEnated, or even publicly executed, if ihe pleale.

Depart

o N E G Y P T. ,Ss

t)eptf t he muft, and the idea of a beauteous
woman waiting for him enfiamed the imagi-
nation, and veiled the danger. He armed
himfelf, croiled the rice-fields, ftole along
the wood of dates, and came to the wall
which divided him from the beauteous Geor-
gian. His heart palpitates ^ he looks, leaps
the wall, and enters the garden. Two wo-
men, at feeing him, rife, and appear terrified,
while he itands motionlefs. The one— it
was Jemily herfclf — held out her hand, and
gave him courage. He approaches, bows
profoundly ; is kindly raifed j a fign is given,
and the flave difappears. “ Stranger,'* faid
Jemily, *• wliy haft thou deceived me lb
“ long ? Thou loveft me not.’* “ Pardon,
beauteous Jemily ; my fears have detained
** me; but 1 am come to repair my wrongs at
your feet.’* She feemed as if fhe would
have continued her reproaches; but, taking
the youth's hand, which trembled in her own,
fbe led him to an orange grove. The moon-
beams filvered the foliage. — But here, without
further defeription, let us leave the lovers.

There feems little probability in an event
like this, judging from European manners;
and I might eaiily have frenchifted the ftoiy,

and

LETTERS

and made it credible enough ; but the world
would only have gained one error more9 would
have laid the Egyptians are like Europeans $
without recoUeding the immenle difFerence
of the licentious liberty of the lex in one
place, and llavery, as licentio.us in its efieds,
in the other. lam.morefatisfied with relating
fadt, Ihould it feem to want probability, than
giving fable the appearance of truth.

I have the honour to be, &c.

LEX

O Vf EGYPT.

*«7

LETTER XVir.

^xcurjion from Grand Cairo to Giza, where
the French merchants have a country houfe i
the route from Giza to the Pyramids, and a
table of their heights, extracted from ancient
and modern travellers, proving the great
pyrasnid is frx hundred feet high •, and that
in the time cf Herodotus,- before the /and had
accumulated round the bafe, its perpendicular
height was eight hundred feet.

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

^li^OU are furprifed. Sir, I have not yet
mentioned the pyramids, and expe<fi: a deferip-
tion that (hall clear and determine your
doubts. This is the very reafon of my filencej
my delay arole from the defire I had to obtain
certainty, and fuch information as fhould
iatisfy your curiofity. One vifit. was not
fufiicient, and I am juft returned from paying
them a fecond, in company with the Comte
D’Antragues, a French nobleman, whole
defire of inftruftion brought him to Egypt,
and who, in addition to the qualities we call
fUniable* poftefi^s wit and learning*

We

l88 LETTERS

We left Grand Cairo after dinner, proceed-
ing through that part of it called Hanefi. The
Nile was oh our right, and the canal of the
prince of the faithful on our left. The plain
we crofled reaches to Foftat, and is inter-
fered by lakes, cluilering trees, gardens,
and pleafure koufes, appertaining to -the
grandees. The moft coniiderable is that of
Ibrahim Bey, Sheik El Balad, (o) whither
he often takes his wives, who range in a vafl:
enclofure of orange trees, and pomegranates,
with a terrace, over which is a portico that
looks down upon the river s here a part of
their captivity is pafTed. A little farther a
grand edifice rifes, inhabited by dcr vices ;
and which, Icandal fays, affords fubje<fl of
confblation to the beauteous prilbners.

Pafling this plain, we came to the mouth
of the canal of the prince of the faithful,
and the water- works ; and, traverfing a part
of Old Cairo, embarked near the Mekias, and
landed at Giza, where the French merchants
have hired a handfbnie country houfc. Plere
we pafTed the evening, impatient to continue
our route; but, previous to this, a prefent

(o) The title of the tnoft powerful Bey, ss 1 have
before faid, fignifying governor of the country.

was

o N E G Y P T. 189

wasneceflary, to the K^achef, (p) who pro-
xnifed us two Cbeiks, (q) to protedl us from
the plundering Arabs. This, formerly, was a
voluntary gift, a mere mark of re{pe(5l ; it is
now a tribute, which the governor lays on
European curiofity. It originated with the
Englilh, who, returning from Bengal, never
fail to vifit the pyramids. The folly and
vanity of thefe Nabobs, v/ho deal out their
gold by handfuls, has made travelling more
expenfive, and difllcult, for perfons who
have not governed the rich provinces of
Bengal.

The prefent accepted, and the elcort come,
we left Giza about an hour after midnight,
and Icarcely had proceeded a quarter of a
league before we perceived the tops of the two
grand pyramids. W e were but three leagues
from them, and the inoon fliohe on them
W'ith full iplendour. They appeared like two
pointed rocks, with their fummits in the
clouds, and the afpedt of thele antique monu-
ments, which have furvived nations, empires,
and the ravages of time, inipired veneration.
The calm of nature, and the filence of

(P) Governor.

( f) Men of the law , or of authority among the Arabs.

night.

ISO L E T E & S

nighty added to their majefty $ and the mind^
cafting a retrofpedtive glance over the ages
that have pafied by thele mountains, which
time himfelf cannot (hake, (hudders with
involuntary awe. Peace be to the laft of the
(even wonders of the world ! Honoured be
the people by whom they were raifed ! -

In the rich plains that furround them.
Fable has placed the Elyfian fields; their
interfedting canals are the Styx and the Lethe.
The creations of Mythology here gleam acrofs
the mind ; and the (hades of her learned,
her warlike, her poetical, her virtuous, heroes,
glide and (hoot, appear and difappear, at
fancy's call. How highly is poetry indebted
to thefe places ; and how highly are they
indebted to poetry ; fung as they have been
by Orpheus and Homer !

Wc approach the pyramids, which, with
afpedt varying, according to the windings of
the plain, we traverie, and the (ituation of
the clouds, become more and more diftindt.
At half pad: three in the morning we found
ourfelves at the foot of the greatcft ; we left
our clothes at the door, where it is entered,
and defcended each with a torch. Wc pro-
ceeded till wc came to a place where wc were

obliged

O N E G Y P t. X9t

obliged to crawl, like fnakes, to pafs into
the ^ond entry, which correlponded to the
firft. We then aicended on our knees, fup->
porting ourielves with our hands againft the
Bdes s otherwiie we were in danger of Aiding
precipitately down an inclined plane, the
notches, or fteps, of which did not afford
certain foot-hold. We fired a piffol about
the middle, the fearful noile of which was
long reverberated among the cavities of this
immenfe edifice, and which awakened thou-
iands of bats, much larger than thofe of
Europe, that, darting up and down, beat
againff our hands and face, and extinguifhed
feveral of our lights. Come to the top, we
entered, through a very low door, a great
oblong chamber, entirely of granite. Seven
enormous ilones, eroding from one wall to
the other, formed the ceiling. A farcopha-
gus, cut from a block of marble, is placed at
one end $ it has been violated by man, for it
is empty, and the lid has been torn off. Bits
of earthen vafes are fcattered round. Beneath
this chamber is another, lefs, where is the
entrance of a conduit, full of rubbifli. After
examining thefe caverns, where the light of
day never enters, and the fhades of eternal

night

LETTERS

19a

night grow more thick and dark, we defcend*
ed by the way we came, taking care not to
tumble into a well, (r) which is on the left,
and which reaches to the bottom of the
pyramid. The air within this edifice, being
never changed, is fo hot and mephitic as
almoH; to fufFocate. When we came out, w’e
were bathed in fweat, as pale as death, and
might have been taken for fpeeftres, tiling
from the abyls of darknei's. Having eagerly
breathed the open air, and refrefhed ourfelves,
we haflened to fcale this mountain of man.
It is compofed of more than two hundred
layers of flone that recede in proportion to
their height, which is from four feet to two.
Thefe enormous fleps mufi all be mounted,
to arrive at the fummit 5 and this we under-
took, beginning at the North-Eaft angle,
which is the lead damaged, but did not
accomplifli our talk till after half an hour’s
ievere labour.

Day began to break, and the Ead gradually
adbmed more glowing colours : we fat en-
joying a pure air and a mod delicious cool'
nefs. The fun-beams loon gilded the top

(r) This was known to Pliny—** There is a well
** in the Pyramid S6 cubits deep.” lib. 36.

of

ON E O Y P T.

193

of Mokkatam, fs) and {bon rofe above it,
in the horizon 5 we received his firfl rays,
and beheld, at a dillance, the tops of the
pyramids of Saccara, three leagues from us,
in the plain of Mummies* The rapid light
dilcovered, every moment, new beauties ; the
tops of minarets, of date-tree groves, planted
round the villages, and on the hills, and the
flooding beams alike inundated mountains
and valleys : the herds left the hamlets, the
boats fpread their fails, and our eyes followed
the vaft windings of the Nile. On the North
were flerile hills, and barren fands; on the
South the river, and waving fields, vaft as the
ocean 5 to the Eaft flood the fmall town of
Giza ; and the towers of Foftat, the minarets
of Grand Cairo, and the caftle of Salah Eddin,
terminated the profpedt. Seated cn the high-
eft, the moft ancient, the moft wonderful, of
the works of man, as upon a throne, our eyes,
wandering round the horizon, beheld a dread-
ful deiert, the rich plains in which the Ely-
fian fields had been imagined, villages, towns,
a majeftic river, and edifices which feemed the
work of giants. The univerfe contains not
a landlcape more variegated, more magni-

(s) K mountain which overlooks Grand Cairo.

VoL. I. O ficeat.

LETTERS

194

£cenL more awful ; which more impels con-"
templation, more elevates the ibul !

Having engraved our names on the top of
the pyramid, we cautioufly deicended ; for
the deep abyfs lay before us ; a piece of Hone
breaking under our hands, or beneath our
feet, had call us headlong down.

Once more iafe at the bottom, we made
the tour of the pyramid, contemplating it
with a kind of terror. Looked at near, it
ieems compoied of detached rocks ; but, a
hundred paces diilant, the largenefs of the
clones is lofl: in the immeniity of the ftruiSture,
and they appear very fmall.

To this day, its dimendons are proble-
matical. Since the time of Herodotus many
travellers and men of learning have meafured
it i and the difference of their calculations,
far from removing, have but augmented,
doubi. I will give you a table of their
admeaiurerncnis ; which, at leafl, will ferve
prove hovi? difEcult it is to come at truth.

Height

0 N

£

G Y P T.

*9S

Height of the grand

Width of one fide.

Pyramid.

Ancients.

Feet.

Feet-

Herodotus

800

- . .

800

Strabo

625

- - - -

600

Diodorus • -

600 fotne inches.

-

700

Pliny - - -

-

-

708

Moderns.

Le Bruyn

6 i 5

• • - •

-

704

Prolp. Alpinus

625

- - - -

-

750

Thevenot - -

520

- - - .

-

6S2

Niebuhr • -

440

- - - .

-

710

Greaves - -

444

m » m

-

648

Number of the layers or Heps.
Greaves - - 207

Maillet - - - 208

Albert Lewenftcin 260
Pococke - - 212

Belon - - - 250

Thevenot - - 208

To me it (cems evident that Greaves and

Niebuhr are prodigioufly deceived, in the
perpendicular height of the grand pyramid.
All travellers agree it contains, at leaft, two
hundred and feven layers, which layers are

O 2 from

LETTERS

from four to two feet high. { u) The higheft ‘
are at the bafe, and they decreafe infen dbly
to the top. I meafured feveral which were
more than three feet high, and I found none
that were lefs than two ; therefore, the leaft
mean height that can be allowed them is
two feet and a half, which, according to
the calculation of Greaves himfelf, who
counted two hundred and feven, will give
five hundred and feventeen feet, hx inches,
in perpendicular height.

Obferve that Greaves, Maillet, Theve*^
not, and Pococke, who differ in the num-
ber of fteps only from two hundred and
feven to two }iunc;ed and twelve, all have
afeended the north-cafl: angle, as the one
leaft damaged. I did t.ie fame, and count-
ed two hundred and t sght ; but, if we

( u) The ileps are from two feet and a half to four
feet high, not being fu high towards the top as at the
bottom. Picseke’ s Treveh, vol* I. p. 43.

The height of tlie firft layer is five feet j but this
height infcnflbly decreafes to the top. Pnjpcr Alpinus^
cap. 6.

This pyramid has two hundred and eight Heps of
large ftones, the mean height of which Is two feet and
a half, for fome that I meafured are higher, and were
above three feet. Th:venctj page 242.

remark

ON EGYPT.

197

remark that the pyramid has been opened
on the fide fronting the defert, that the
ftones have been thrown down, and that the
fands which have covered them have form*
ed a confiderable hill, we (hall no longer
wonder that Albert Leweinfiein, Belon, and
Profper Alpinus, who afcended either the
fouth-eafi or fouth^wefi: angle, lels expofed
to the lands of Lybia, found a greater num-
ber of fleps : for which realbn, their cal-
culation, agreeing with that of Diodorus
and Strabo, feems nearefi; the true height of
the pyramid, taken from its original bale ^
and we have cauie to believe it was at lead
fix hundred feet high. What Strabo lays is
almoll proof pofitive. About half way up,
** on one fide, is a Hone, that may be removed,
** which Hops up an oblique entry that
** leads to the coffin, which is depofited
within the pyramid.’* (x) This entry,
which is now open, and which, in the
time of Strabo, fyj w'as about half way
up, is, at prefent, not a hundred feet from
the bale. Thus the rubbilh of the coating

fxj Strabo, lib. 17.

Q) i. e. In the age of Auguilus.

O 3 of

LETTERS

198

of the pyramid, and the ftones dug out
and taken from the inf de, iince covered by
fands, have formed, in this place, a hill
two hundred feet high. Pliny fupports this
opinion, (x) The grand fphinx, in his age,
Rood fixty-two feet above ground i but its
body is now buried under the fand, and the
neck and head only appear, which are twen-
ty-feven feet high. If this Iphinx, which
the p5Tamids (helter from the north winds
that drift up the fands of Lybia, has, nc-
verthclefs, been covered thirty feet, imagine
how great mufl: be the quantity gathered on
the north fide of an edifice which intercepts
thefe fands, by a bafe of more than fevcn
hundred feet in extent. To this we inuft
attribute the prodigious difference between
the accounts of the hifiorians, who mea-
fured the grand pyramid, in diftant times,
and at oppofite angles. Herodotus, who
lived neareft the time of its foundation,
when its real bafe was bare, allows it to have
been eight hundred feet fquare, (a) which I
think very probable. This is aifb the opi-
nion of Pliny, who fays it covered a fpace

f z; Pliny, lib. 36,

(a) Euterpe.

of

ON EGYPT.

X99

of eight acres, (b) Shaw, (c) Thevenot,
(d) and the reft of the travellers, who
have pretended this pyramid was never
finiftied, becaule it is open and is not coated,
are miftaken. That it was coated will be
proved by the remains of mortar, ftill found
in feveral parts of the fteps, mixed with
fragments of white marble : and, if we
read, attentively, the defcription the an-
cients have given of it, every doubt will va-
nifti, and truth be feen in all its luftre. Let
us examine a few of theft paftages.

The grand pyramid was coated by
** poliftied ftones, perfectly joined, the leaft
“ of which was thirty feet long. It was
built in the form of fteps, on each of
** which wooden machines were eredted, to
** raift the ftones to the next. Herodotus
Euterpe.

** The grand pyramid is built of ftones,
** very difficult to work, but, -of eternal
“ duration. They are hitherto preftrved
without damage, (e) and were brought

(b) Pliny, lib. 36.

{c) Shaw’s Travels.

(d) Voyage dc Levant, page 255.

( e) About the middle of the Auguftan age.

O 4 “ from

200

I, E T T E R S

“ from the marble quarries of Arabia,*'
JPiodorus Siculus, lib. i.

The hiftorian thought the whole edifice
had been built of flones fimilar to the
coating, which was of very hard marble.
lEiad this coating been broken, in part, he
would have feen, underneath, a calcareous
ilone, tolerably foft.

The grand pyramid is built of flones,
** brought from the quarries of Arabia, and
** is not far from the village of Bufiris,
** (f) where people live who have the

agility to mount to the top.*’ Pliny,
lib, 36.

We fee that Pliny, deceived by appear-
ances, was under the fame error as Diodo>
rus i but the pafTage clearly fhews the
pyraniid was coated. In fadt, it would
not have been furprizing that the inhabi-
tants of Bufiris could mount a building that
had fleps i . but it was exceedingly fo that
they fliould afeend a mountain, the four
iides of which prefented a vafl furface of
polifhed marble flabs, laid flanting.

1 fhall forbear being more particular, to

(f) This village Hill remains, is called Boulir, and
is only a fhort league from the pyramids.

prove

ON EGYPT.

aoi

prove that the grand pyramid was coated
with marble : the fadt: is inconteftible.
That it was (hut is equally true, as ap-
pears from Strabo ; and that, by railing a
^one, placed about the middle of one of
its (ides, an entry was found, which led
to the tomb of the king. To Maillet,
who vifited this pyramid forty times, with
all imaginable care, I will leave the honour
of informing you what the means employed
to open it were. I have twice examined
it within, have twice afcended to its fum~
mit, and cannot forbear admiring the (a-
gacity with which this author has unveiled
the mechanifm of that adonilhing edifice.
To this letter, therefore, 1 will fubjoin
his enquiries, and his plan, becaufe I can
(peak only as he has (poken, and the merit
of the difcovery is his right. 1 (hall only
add a few notes, which 1 have thought
necedary.

1 have the honour to be, 6cc.

LET-

20Z

LETTERS

LETTER XVIII.

On the interior JiruSiure of the great pyramid*
its pc^ages^ welly and apartments ; with
the means employed^ by ike architeSis, to
clofe and render it inaccejjible j alfo the
violent ones by which it has been opened:
the whole extracted from the learned MaiU
let.

To M. L. M.

Grand Caiio^

* The pyramid has not only been coated «

* and rendered entire without, but clo(ed«

* alfb, and opened with violence : which

* 1 will undertake to prove, beyond all

* doubt.

* This violence is firft perceived at the

* natural entry of the pyramid ; whence

* have been taken, as may be leen with a lit-

* tlea ttention, fome of the flones which once

* fhut it, and which were enormouily large.

* Thele Rones were placed above a palTage

* which, by a rather Reep defcent, led to

* the

O N E G Y P T. 9^3

'* the centre of the pyramid, and to the

* chambers where the bodies of thofe who

* built it mud: have been depofited. This
< palTage is a hundred feet long, and be-

* gins a hundred feet from the bafe of the

* pyramid. It is got at by a kind of

* mountain, of the fame height, formed

* from the ruins of the pyramid itfelf. It

* is three feet three inches Iquare, and was

* wholly filled with ftohes, v/ell fitted, of
‘ the fame marble with itfelf. Above the

* aperture by which it is entered, we find

* an extent of nine or ten feet, in the body

* of the pyramid, whence Hones, of a pro-

* digious fize, have been taken, as is evi-

* dent from the remaining Hones. This,

* alone, would fufHce to prove the pyramid

* has been doled ; fince thefe Hones could

* only have been removed to find the mouth

* of this paHage $ or, more eafily to come

* at the Hones which w'ere within the paf-

* fage, and which were faHened to thole

* they were forced from. See A. Having

* forced thefe prodigious Hones, and thofe

* of the paflage which were below thefe

* firH; it was eafy to extraffc the others,

* by the purchafe they would obtain on the

* part

LETTERS

204^

* part that projedted. It is fuppol^ that,

* to make tliis more didicult, when the

* /tones were inferted in the palTage, they

* were coated with an exceedingly ftrong

* cement, that they might iix themfelves

* more firmly, to the fides of the pallage,

* and become of a piece with the edifice i

* but, -by fuperior force, and hot water,

* poured in the pafiage B, the cement was loft*

* ened, and the /tones detached, which were af-

* terwards got out without much trouble,

* Certain it is, they found a method of ex-

* trailing them, without injuring the very

* /tones which form the pafiage ; they are /till

* as well poli/hed as at fir/t, except at the

* bottom of the palTage, where they have chif*

* /eled, at convenient di/tances, holes two or

* three fingers deep ; which precaution was

* nece/Tary, to facilitate the entrance and
« return from the pyramid. Were it not

* for this afii/tance, it would not be pofiible

* to defcend the pa/Tage, without Hiding ra-

* pidly to the bottom; or to return, with*

* out having ropes faltened on the outfide.

* 1 hinted above, the pafiage was made

* of marble : 1 now add that the ftones,

* which form the four fides,- are of the

* fine/!:.

O N E G Y P T. aos

• * fineft, confequently the hardeft, white,

* marble. I own it is ibnaewhat yellow,

* and has, no doubt, taken this colour,

* on the furface, from length of time, (g)

* One of thefe prodigious Hones, which,

* as I have faid, were forced from the pyra-

* mid, above the entrance of the palTage, is

* Hill found there ; and it is ufual for thofe

* who vilit this illuHrious monument, to get

* on it and eat. It is of the fame marble, be-

* yond all contradidlion ; as well as thofe

* which form the other paiTages. On this prin-

* ciple I have affirmed, the Hones which clo-
' fed the firH paHage, I have juH defcribed,

* and even all the other paiTages of the pyra*

* mid, were of the fame materials ; chofen,

* no doubt, preferably to all others, for its ex-

ig) It Is its natural colour. At the foot of Mount
Colzoum, on the wcftern Ihorc of the Red Sea, is au
immenfe quarry of this yellow marble : the landy plain,
which leads to it is called Elaraba^ the pUin of Carts,
which name it no doubt obtained from the carts, ufed
to carry the marble to the Nile, whence it was tranf*
ported by water, almoft to the foot of the pyr ami ds.
Herodotus and Pliny affirm, the ftones, with which
they were coated were brought from the quarries of
Arabia, becaufe that part of Egypt was then called
Arabia.

* treme

ao6 LETTERS

* treme hardnefs. This may be eaiily proved^

* by raifing the half of the Rone, which

* Rill remains, at C ; where is the junction

* between the outward and inward pailage.

* The inRde of the pyramid is fo dark, and

* blackened, by the imoke of candles, and

* torches, which, for ages, have been burnt

* in going to vifit it, that to judge of the qua-
‘ lily of the Rones of the chambers and other

* places, enclofed in this wonderful pile,

* would be difficult ; we only can fee that

* their poliRi is extremely fine ; that they are

* of the utmoR hardnefs, and fo pcrfedtly

* joined that the point of a knife cannot en-
‘ ter the interRices, between them.

* When they had emptied this firR paflage,

* and ended this painful labour, they came

* to a fccond. Rill more confiderablc. The
‘ talk then was to cxtradt the Rones that

* filled this fecond, which afcended, to*

* wards the top of the pyramid, with the
‘ fame fudden Reepnefs that the other had
‘ defcended : and, alfo, to find the beginning

* of this paflage ; which, I imagine, they did,

* though the Rone that doled ir, fitted it fo

* juRly as to leave no indication of any aper-
‘ tme, whatever. They only might perceive

* that

ON EGYPT.

ao7

* that it did not, like the others, extend

* over the top of the iirft padage ; which

* they would difcover, by founding, with

* the point of a knife, or fome other inftru-

* ment, with which they might penetrate the

* cement, that united the four fides of which

* the fuperticies of that ftone was compofed,

* and which joined it to thofc of the pafTage

* beneath. The entrance to this fecond paf^

* fage was ten feet diftant' from the further
‘ end of the hrfl j fhe better to deceive thofe

* who fhould attempt to difcover it. This

* llone w^as attacked firft, which was no eafy

* work 5 the place was confined, and it was

* neceflary to lay on the back, and w'ork above

* the head, the arms having but little force,

* and the body in continual danger of be-

* ing cruihcd, by a mafiy ftonc, that every

* i:iflant might fall, which may be feen at

* C. The mallet and chiflel having con-
‘ quered the refiftar.ce of this firfl: ftonc, which

* niuft have been keyed, or fbme way faften-

* ed, another I'ucceedcd, which, gliding down,

* covered the month of the pafTage ; and to
' extradt which a different kind of labour

* was necefliiry. This they effedled : but,
' another ftill prefenting itfelf, they thought

‘ this

LETTERS

sot

* this mode too tedious, renounced it, and

* having prevented the delcent of the ftones^

* which followed and ftopped up the mouth

* of the padage, they forced a way, forty feet

* long, and eight or ten in height and width,

* at D, through the Hones that furrounded

* the bottom of the firft paflage. This forced

* paHage /^/jJ is at E. In fome places it is

* low, and confined, in others a man may

* Hand upright ; this was a work of infinite

* labour. Afterward turning to the left, to-

* ward the fecond pafifage, they took three

* or four Hones out of its fide, which made

* an opening from fifteen to twenty feet in cx-

* tent at G. But it is neceffary, before we

* {peak of the continuation of this work, to

* obferve that the Hone which really clofcd

* this pallage, w’here it communicated with

* the fii'H, exactly proportioned to the place,

* and entirely Hopping up the mouth, has

* been removed ; as I have laid : for the

* Hone at the mouth of this palTage at

* preient, does not fit 5 but, on the con-

(l/J It is unequal, crooked, and very uifFerent from
the pafTages of the pyramid j which prove it has been
forcibly efiefled. What mull have been the labour to
j>cnetrate a mafs lb enormous, and in a fituation fo
confined, for more than forty feet !

trary.

ON EGYPT.

209

* frary* leaves a void of five or fix fingers, at

* its top ; which ought to be that much longer

* than its bottom. See letter F.

' Having broken and extracted the three

* ftones at G, by which they came to the

* fecond pafiage, it was necefiary to clear all

* the other fiones away ; not only thoie which

* correlponded to this opening, but thole,

* alfo, which were continued to an unknown

* extent. This was a difficult and tedious
‘ work, fince only one perfon could be em-

* ployed, in a fpace three feet three inches

* Iquare. It might be lufpedled, likewile,

* that, befides the numerous ilones they fiiould

* find in this paffage, they might come to an

* opener place, where there might be a long

* continuation of ftones, again ready to Hide

* down, and ftop up the paiiage to the

* center of the pyramid. To avoid which,

* in part, in Head of breaking the fiones

* one after the other, at G, where the

* paiTage had been attempted, and begun,

* they refolved to fufiain the fiones in the
' paiTage, and, by a prop, or fome other

* means, to fupport the fione above that they

* intended to break. Accordingly they began $

* and, attacking and brewing this fucceffion of

Voi,. I, P < fiones.

210

LETTERS

* Rones* each fuRained by props of proper-

* donate length* they continued the work*

* from Rone to Rone, without widening the

* extent of the paRage* till they came to the

* end of it* and to an upper (pace* of which I

* Riall prefently fpeak. '

* It is proper to obferve that, for the whole

* extent of this paRage, great efforts were

* neceRary, to break the Rones by which it

* was filled ; the Rrokes of the mallets they

* employed* and thofe Rruck on the chiRels*

* ufed to accompliRi the work* have fo much

* injured the fides of the paRage that* fquare

* as it was, they have almoR made it round : a

* certain proof they worked from top to bot-

* tom, and, confequently, propped the Rones

* in their places to break them } for* had this

* work been performed at the opening made

* at G* that part, only* of the paRage would

* have been disfigured* and the remainder*

* eighty feet in length* (fee letter H) from

* which the Rones would have only flipped

* down to the vacant place* would have re-

* mained perfeA ; as in the other places*

* where the fides are entire* quite to the

* chamber.

Having arrived quite at the end of this

• paRage,

4

ON EGYPT.

2X1

* paflage, they found its upper part open^

* and that it had loft a foot in depth } fince it

* was only two feet and a half deep. This

* part however widened, on each fide, a foot

* and a half ; making three feet, and in->

* creafing the width to fix feet and a half g

* thereby forming, on each fide of the pafiage,

* two elevations, or benches, of two feet

* and a half high, and one foot and a half

* wide. The pafiage continued, in the fame

* direiftion, for the fpace of a hundred and

* twenty-five feet, according to the meafure-

* ment I caufed to be made ; others fay a

* hundred and forty. At the end of thefe

* benches, and this pajfiage, was an efplanade,

* or platform, eight or nine feet in depth,

* and fix and a half wide ; like the fpace

* above the benches. This is indicated by

* the letter R, in the figure. No. a, on a

* larger fcale, which is given of this part of

* the pyramid. At intervals of two feet and

* a half, they have cut, perpendicularly, in
' the benches, from bottom to top, next the
■* wall, niches (or mortifes) a foot long, fix

* inches wide, and eight deep. 1 fhall ex*

* plain their ufe hereafter. Thefe benches,
' and niches, which accompany the pafiage P,

Pa are

212

LETTERS

* are (hewn at the letters Q^Qi_ The fides

* of the gallery rile above the benches, twen-

* ty-five feet high : for the height of twelve

* feet, the wall is perfectly equal ; it is then

* narrowed by a ftonc, which projects three

* fingers ; and, three feet above that, by

* another ; at the fame diftance by a third ;

* and three feet higher, again, by a fourth j

* all equally proje<5ling. It is only four feet

* from this to the roof ; which is Hat, and

* nearly the fame width as the palTage at the

* bottom of the gallery ; that is to fay, about

* three feet three inches. This elevation was

* necedary to the architect, to place the flones,
‘ which were to clofe the palTages. What I

* have faid of the narrowing of the gallery,

* at flated diflances, is indicated by the letters

* S S. Leaving the paflage H, at hrft entering

* the gallery, an opening is found, on the

* right, in the wall : it occupies a part of the

* bench, is almoft round, and cut in the form

* of a fmall door, of about three feet high,

* and two and a half wide. From this aper-
‘ ture is a defeent into a well ; of which, and

* its ufe, 1 (hall fpeak prefently. Sec I.

* Having once come to the gallery, it was

* not difncult to break the llones which filled

the

ON EGYPT.

axs

* the paflage P 5 becaufe, they were' not only

* above the benches, but, the greater width of
‘ the gallery left the workmen free to ufe

* beetles, and Itrike, with eafe, on the

* iron wedges, which they employed to

* remove and break thefe ilones. Or they

* might begin with the laft, which was eaiier
‘ to break than the others, becaufe they might
‘ ftand upright in the paflage, and accomplith
‘ their purpofe with greater eafe. Having

* done this, and removed the broken ftones, by

* examining the bottom of the groove, they

* would perceive that the firfl: feones, with

* which this bottom was covered, to the ex-

* tent of fourteen or fifteen feet (fee L) did not

* crofs the benches j and would then ealily

* remove them, one after the other. This place

* cleared, they would find a platform, ten

* feet in length, and equal in height, at the
^ end of which was a continuation of the

* pafiage, which formed a triangle of fourteen

* or fifteen feet extent, at the entrance of

* the gallery. On a level with this platform,

* and to the left of the pafiage which led to

* the gallery, they would fee a continuation

* of the pafifage three feet three inches fquare.

* This new pafiage was covered by the fiones

P 3 ‘ they

LETTERS

ai4

* had juft removed ; and^ th^ v^ould eafily
** divine, it, neceftarily, led to fome lecret

* part of the pyramid, and would relblve to

* iatisfy their doubts. This paftage (fte

* letter N) might eafily be emptied of the

* ftones by which it was ftopped up i they

* having room to work, and to remove them,

* in a ftraight line. They were broken in

* the open (pace, at the entrance of this

* paiTage, which they found was a hundred

* and eighteen feet in length, and at the end

* of which was a vaulted chamber.

* This chamber (fee letter O) is feventeen

* feet and a half long, fifteen feet ten inches

* wide, and has a femi-circular ceiling. On

* the eaftern fide, there is a niche, funk three

* feet in the wall, eight feet high, and three

* wide ; which, no doubt, was for a mum-

* my, placed ftanding, according to the cu(^

* tom of the Egyptians. Probably, it was

* the body of the Queen, whofe hufband

* built the pyramid ; nor have I any doubt

* but that his body was depofited in the

* chamber above, perpendicular to this, but

* about a hundred feet higher, (See letters

* O and D D.) On entering the chamber O,

* the laft ftone, on the right hand, was

« bevelled.

ON EGYPT.

aiS

* bevelled, that is, doping at one end, which

* projected about three fingers ; this had

* been purpoiely done, to prevent the done,

* which was to dole the pailage N, from enter-

* ing this chamber : and, we have reafbn to

* believe, this doling done had a correfpond-
' ing bevel, that it might dt exactly and
*join the wall of the chamber, which an-

* fwered to this entrance. I cannot leave

* this place without remarking a difcovery

* 1 made, in the upper part of the padage. (6 J

* To others, more able, I will leave the

* deciiion of what might have caufed this

* accident. for my own part, I either think it
.* the ededfc of an earthquake or of the finking

* of this enormous body, which may be more

* heavy on one fide than another, or have a

* lefs Iblid foundation. I certainly law no

* fimilar defedt, in any other part of the

* pyramid, though I examined it with the

* mod Icrupulous exa^itude ; particularly

(l) A long and remarkable crack, at leaft fix lines
wide, and ftrikes at firft fight. It is on the fide facing
the Nile ; and, perhaps, the part of the mountain, the
foot of which is watered by the river, which fiitrvs
dirough the fands, hat given way a little, under the
weight of this vaft pyramid.

P4

‘ every

2I6

LETTERS

* every part of the gallery, with a careful

* curiolity ; and, as it was impoflible to intro-
‘ duce a pole, through the winding entrance,

* which it is neceflary to go through, to

* come to the paiTage, I had feveral flicks tied

* together, at the end of which lighted torches

* were fixed ; thefe I railed as near to the

* ceiling as poflible, and to the wall, without

* difcovcring any defed:. I only obferved that

* the iides were injured, in fome places, and

* that, on the right, a part of the wall had

* been carried away, above the narrowing of

* the gallery ; which accident, no doubt, was

* occahoned by the fall of fome ftone, in the

* doling of the pyramidf'tEe manner of which

* 1 lhall hereafter defcribe, that, having

* efcaped from the workmen, fell from the

* top of the fcafiblding, and broke the part

* where it alighted.

* I mull further fay that, it is probable,

* they were perfuaded there was fome hidden

* treafure, under this firll chamber. This will

* be leen by a forced entrance, that has been

* made, through which, croliing feveral un-

* equal llones, there is a way into the body

* of the pyramid, twenty or five and twenty

* paces deep. The flones, broken^ and re-

* moved

ON EGYPT.

ai7

moved from that place, atprefent, almoft

* £11 this chamber. The fame attempts have

* been made in the chamber above ; though,

* probably, in both places, the only recom-
‘ pence, for the infinite pains they had taken,

* in Ipoiling works fo beautiful, was the vex-

* ation of having fpent much time and trou-

* ble to no purpofe.

‘ The fecret of this firfi: chamber difco-

* vered, nothing remained but to penetrate

* to that which enclofed the body of the king.

* They had no doubt but they fhould find it

* on a level with the elplanade, which, as I

* have faid, was at the high end of the gallery $

* and they imagined, with reafon, it ought to

* be fituated exa(5ilv over the firfi. In fafl:-

* at the end of this eiplanade, which, in fig.

* 2, is denoted by the letter R, they found

* a continuation of the three feet three inch

* pafiage, perfectly clofed % fee letter T. This
‘ tliey began to clear i and it is probable the

* clofing fione was lb firmly fixed that the

* labour of removing it was great. This may

* be feen, by a piece of the upper fione
** having been broken, to obtain a purchale,

* no doubt, on the one beneath, that fiopped

! up

3X8 LETTERS

* up the pailage. After many efibrts, they

* removed it ; and» alio, effedled the removal

* of a fecond, and came to a ipace feven feet

* and a half long. They wilhed to proceed

* to the end of this padage ; but, after thefe

* two ftones, they found a third, which could

* not be drawn out, becaufe it was wider, and

* higher, than the aperture. This was the

* laft refuge of the architect, to deceive who-

* ever might penetrate thus far, and prevent

* continuing the fearch for the myfterious

* chamber, in which, twelve paces diilant, the
' body of the king repofed, and his treafures

* with him, provid ed any had Jbeen fo depo*

* fited. This difficulty did not, however,

* miilead the workmen, nor dilcourage thofe

* who had undertaken the learch of the pyra->

* mid. The ftone was attacked with mallet

* and chiilel, and, after much time and labour,

* broken ; for it was fix feet long, four wide,

* and, perhaps, from five to fix high : becaufe

* here we find a ipace of fifteen feet high,

* which, after riiing eight feet, enlarges four,

* or thereabouts, toward the gallery. This

* extenfion is denoted in the plate, fig. 2, bj'

* the &. It correfponded with an aperture

Mn

O N E G Y P T. at9

* in paf&gc. a foot and half wide, which

* was two feet before the great ftone, and the

* purpoie of which I (hall defcribe prefently.

* At the top of this ipace, there was a hol-

* low, a foot deep, and nearly the fame in

* height, in the wall that every way clo(ed the

* paiiage, iee A A j which had been purpofely

* made to fuflain powerful levers, or crofs

* beams, over which ftrong ropes were thrown,

* that held the great flone, by means of iron

* rings, and fuipended it in the (pace Z,

* which it filled, till fuch time as they fufiFered

* it to fall, over the palfiige B B ; that is to

* fay, till the. body of the king had been

* depofited in the chamber. The aperture,

' of a foot and half, made in the pafiage, fee

* V, and which was two feet before the

* fpace the great flone occupied, had been left

* for the workmen to retire, after the defeent

* of this enormous flone. This aperture was

* afterward clofed, by a flone of the exa£t

* fize, and only two feet thick, which was

* brought under that aperture, and to which

* they had fixed two rings, toward its upper

* end, to which two rings two chains were

* faflened, which correfponded, above, with
' another heavier flone, hanging over the aper-

* ture

320

LETTERS

* ture Z, which the great ftone had occupied,

* and which had been left void, when it was

* fuffered to fall, over the palfage. The ropes

* that fuftained this enormous llione, were fup>

* ported by the poft (or pillar) Y. There was

* a counterpoifing weight, however, on the

* lower {lone, till the workmen Ihould retire,

* through the cavity of a foot and he.lf, I

* have mentioned, and Vvhich was betvrecn

* this Hone and the upper aperture. Having

* got out, through this cavity, the counter-

* poife was removed, and the {lone fell into

* its place, in which it was held by another

* {lone, that had been toothed, three fingers

* wide i which toothing was parpofely done,

* and was three fingers thick, and fix or feven

* wide i as may be feen, at prefent, about a

* man’s height, when, entering the pyramid,

* and leaving the three feet three inch paf-

* fage, one riles upright, in the fpace V. The

* toothing (fee letter X) of thefe llones was

* the lafl fecret, employed to preferve the

* chamber from violation, and merits atten-

* tion. Along the fide walls of the fpace where

* the large flone, fix feet long and four wide,

* was enclofed, round flutings may be feen,

* three fingers deep, and deferibed by lliort

‘ parallel

ON EGYPT.

zxx

■« parallel lines in the plate (fig. 2.) which had

* been cut that the ftone might more eafily,

* and more exadlly fall into its proper place.

* They were alfo meant to render it llronger,

* and more folid, in cafe of being attacked.

* Thefc precautions will prove the extreme

* care employed to preferve the corple of the

* King from violation ; fuppofing men ihould

* be found impious and daring enough for

* fach an cnterprize. If, 'after the ftone, a

* foot and a half wide, and three feet fix

* inches long, which was the meafuremeht of

* the aperture V, cut in the pafiage, was put

* in its place, and adjufted, the leaft opening

* remained, this was filled up with cement.

* We may alfb fuppofe the ftone, itfelf, bad a

* coating of cement, before it v/as railed into

* the Ipace it was to fill, which would ren-
‘ der its afcent flower by counter-aftion j the

* handle of the mallet would eafily clear away

* the fuperfluous cement, and let it into its

* place. This ftone no longer fubfifts, noc

* yet the great one, which was obliged to

* be broken, to remove it out of its place.

* No one, however, who with the fmalleft

* attention, examines the manner in which

* the delcribed ipaces are difpoftd, and which

* are

222

LETTERS

* are only feet before the entrance of the'

* chamber, where the corp/e of the King was

* placed, but will reft perfuaded thele things

* have been thus managed j or who will not

* admire the art, and ability, of the architect,

* who had but the fmall fpace of nine feet

* to perform all this in. To make the un-

* derftanding of this eafier, the figures of

* thefe (2 and 3) have been given on a larger

* fcale i the eye, in fuch cafes, being a bet-

* ter interpreter than the pen.

‘ Having cut away, bit by bit, the great

* ftone, from the grooved ipace, where it had

* defended, they came to the laft, which

* ended at the chamber, and filled up the
' fpace B B. This was not difficult to ro-
‘ move } it gave very little trouble. They

* then might freely enter the myfterious

* chamber, fb well defended, D D. The roof

* of this is flat, and compofed of nine ftones :

* the feven middle ones are four feet wide,

* and above flxteen long $ fince they reft, on

* each flde, on the two walls, to the eaft and

* weft, and which are flxteen feet from each

* other. The two remaining ftones feem on-

* ly to be two feet wide, each, for what

* there is more of them is concealed, by the

* two

o N E G Y P T. 223

* two other walls over which they are laid.

* What was found in this chamber I leave to

* the imagination : hiftory only undertakes

* to record actions either laudable or fnch as

* ought to be avoided, and not to perpetuate

* the memory of outrages which attack na-

* ture, becaufe they are, in themfelves, . fufE-

* ciently deteftable. Thus, burying in obli-

* vion the name of the facrile^ous invader

* of this maufoleum, it means to leave us ig-

* norant of the lecrets it enclofed. All we

* know is that this chamber, now, whatever

* it might have done, contains nothing but

* a cafe (or tomb] of granite, ieven or eight

* feet Jong, four wide, and as many high.

^ fcj It was here fixed when the place

* was cloied at the top ; and the reafbn it

* Aill fubfifis, is, it could not be taken away

* without breaking, and when broken would

* have been of no fervice. It had a lid, as
' may be feen by the manner of its rims ;

It feems to me this farcophagus was of yellow
marble, like that of the firft ftone, found at the en* /
trance of the firft pallage. A naturalift who fliould
examine thcfc different marbles, and thofe got from
Mount Colzoum, fbme leagues from where the mo-
naftery of St. Anthony is built, would give to truth dilt
moftpofitive of proofs.

* but

9L24

L E T<T E R S

* but it was broken when taken of!^ and no

* remains of it are to be found. Here^ no

* doubt, the body of the King was depofited,

* enclofed in two or three cafes (or coffins)

* of precious wood, according to the cuflom

* of the great. Moft probably, alfb, this

* chamber contained many other coffins, be-

* fide that of the monarch thofe, efpecial-

* ly, who were here entombed with him, as

* it were, to keep him company. In fadt,

* when the body of the King, by whom

* this pyramid was built, was laid in this

* fuperb maufbleum, living people were here

* introduced, at the fame time, never to come

* out, but to be buried alive with the prince :

* which thing I cannot doubt, after the con-

* vidlion 1 have had of its truth : my opi*

* nion is founded on what fellows. Exadlly

* in the middle of the chamber, which is

* thirty-two feet in length, nineteen high, and

* fixteen wide, are two holes, oppofite each

* other, three feet and a half above the floor.

* The one, turned toward the north, is a foot

* wide, eight inches high, and runs, in a

* right line, to the outfide of the pyramid :

* this hole is now flopped up by flones, five

* or fix feet from its mouth. The other, cut

*towar4

o N E G Y P T» afts

* toward the eaft« the fame diflance from

* the floor, is perfectly round, and wide

* enough to put in the two fifts j it eu-

* larges, at flrfl, to a foot diameter, and

* lofes itfelf, defcending toward the bottom

* of the pyramid. Thefe two holes are at
^ C C ; and 1 think, and hope, that fcnflble

* people will fuppofe with me, thefe holes
‘ were both made for the ufe of the perfbns

* who were here fliut up with the body of the

* king. Through the firfl, they were to re-
‘ ceive air, food, and other neceflaries ; and

* they had, no doubt, provided a long cafe, for

* this purpofe, proportioned to the fize of

* the . hole ; with a cord, by which the

* perfons in the pyramid might draw it to

* them, and another without, by which

* it might be again drawn back. Thefe,

* apparently, were the means which fup-

* plied the neceflities of thofe who were

* within the pyramid, fb long as. any one

* remained living. 1 fuppofe each of thefe
‘ perfons to be provided with a coflin, to

* contain his corpfc, and that they fucceflively

* rendered this laft pious duty to each other,

* till only one remained, who could not have
*■ this afliflance, granted to the refl; of his com-

Voi,,I. * panions.

m6 letters

* panions. The other hole ierted for the

* voidance of excrements^ which fell into

* a deep place, made for that purpole. I

* meant to have fearched the outlide of the

* pyramid, for the place thdt fhould correl^

* pond with the oblong hole, and toward

* which two pun<5tuated lines are drawn, on

* the plate which reprefents the infide of

* the building.* Here it is pofiible 1 might

* have found new proofs of what I have

* advanced : this fearch, however, might

* not only have given umbrage to the pow-

* ers of government, who would not have

* failed to have fuppoled Ibme treafure was

* attempted to be difcovered; but 1 thought
^ the hole might terminate in fome hollow

* of the outiide, and apprehended I might

* find it totally fiopped up, either by the

* body of the pyramid, or by the coating

* fiione. Others, from what I have related,

* may fearch the part to which this aper-

* ture fhould correfpond, and thus gain

* complete proof of its deftined ufe ; though,

* There are no fuch lines on the plate : they have
been omitted, through fome miftake, and we have not
thought ourfelves authorized in fupplytng what can
only be accurately imagined by having been leen* T*

• to

OK EGYPT*

227

< to me, this is not doubtful, nor does it

* &em poi&ble to imagine any other.

* Having explained, as clearly as the fub-
«jedt would permit me, by what means,

* and efforts, the pyramid was forced, and

* opened, 1 have now to remove a doubt,

* which the reading of what 1 have faid may

* have railed. It may be afked. Where

* were all the flones, necelfarily employed

* in doling the padages'I have defcribed,
^ Aored up ? And in what manner were

* thele padages doled, by workmen who
‘ were to get from within ? This expla^

* nation will not be lefs curious, or merit

* lefs. admiration, than the former.

* 1 have already oblerved that, along the

* benches of the palTage P, which was at

* the bottom, of the gallery, niches, or mor-

* tifes, had been perpendicularly cut, a foot
' long, fix inches wide, and eight deep :

* lee Thefe mortifes, perfedly cor-

* relponding with each other, through the

* whole length of the benches, were each

* two feet and a half diftant, and had

* been made, when building the galleiy,

* that each might contain a piece of wood,

* a foot fquare, and three or four feet long,

Qjt • from

228

LETTERS

* from which fix inches had been cut at the >

* bottom^ for the ipace of eight fingers*

< agreeing with the mortifes, into which

* they were to fit. They were to raife a

* fcaffold on, defiined to fufiain the fiones,

* wanted to fill all the pafiages, which

* were to be doled, within the pyramid,

* as well as the pafiage P at the bottom

* of the gallery.* Thefe ports were cut in

* like manner at their upper end, and long
‘ pieces of wood, with mortifes, fimilar to

* thole of the benches, rerted on theie up-
‘ rights, and formed, from one fide of the

* gallery to the other, a fafe ftay, from

* bottom to top, on which to nail hpards,
‘ fix feet and -a half long, fix inches thick,

* The letter of indication, in the French, is F ; but
the lettei F, in the plate, is at the mouth of the
fecond pafiage, very difiant from the gallery : this
muft, therefore, have been a miftake. It may not be
improper to add, here, that the text in this pal-
fage indicates, by fingers M. Maillet meant inches i
and that, with a few exceptions, a more literal, con^
fequently lefs elegant, tranflation of this than of any
other letter in the work was requifite : not even ex-
cepting the meafurements, and technical phrafes, ne-
cefiary in defcribing the antiquities of Alexandria and
Thebes. T.

* and

ON EGYPT.

229

- ^ and well planed> whereon a firft row of

* ftones was laid. The benches^ as 1 have

* raid> rofe two feet and a half above the

* bottom of the gallery. I fuppoie the Icaf-

* fold was placed at the height of three feet

* above the benches, therefore, from the

* bottom of the gallery to the fcaifold was

* an elevation of hve feet and a half, which

* was fufficient for the workmen to Hand

* upright. I likewife obferved that from

* the bottom of the pafTage to the ceiling of

* the gallery was twenty-feven feet and a

* half, and from the bottom of the paflage

* to the fcaffold we may allow fix, the re-

* mainder from the fcaffold will then be

* twenty-one and a half, in which fpace

* four rows of Hones might be laid, of three

* feet and a half high, the fize neceffury to

* fill the palfages, and there would Hill re-

* main a ijpace of feven feet and a half above

* the Hones ; but 1 will fuppofe .that, be*

* tween each row of Hones, boards, three

* inches thick, were placed in order that

* they might be more eafily removed, by

* Hiding them along thefe boards. Three

* rows of Hones were fufficient to fill all
^ the apertures which are, at prefent, emp*

QL3 '

LETTERS

* 3 ®

* tied. It may be that there are other pa(^ '

* fages, not opened, in the body of the

* pyramid, iince the gallery would eafily

* contain four rows of thele ftones, and even

* five, if needful. This may be proved by

* the calculation I have given, and it is not

* probable they would raife the gallery, more

* than was necefiary, to the weakening the

* whole body of the building.

* But let us content ourfelves with the dif-

* covered pallages which have been forced and

* opened. Let us confider the quantity of

* fiones with which they certainly were filled,

* and which have been broken, except three

* feet and a half, or four feet, of thefe fame

* fioneSjwhich remain at F,and which fiillclole

* the entrance of the paiTage H, which commu-

* nicates with the firfi. 1 call this firfi; (fee B)

* the exterior pafiage, becauie it was doled

* from without, while the others were filled

* up within the pyramid itfelf, from the fiones

* placed along the gallery ; and 1 allow three

* tows of ilones for the filling all thefe paf-

* fages> the jufinefs of which may be found

* by calculation.

• Thirteen feet and a half of ftone was

* necefiary to fill the pafiage which led to

* the

Q N. Jt.u Y r IV Air

* the royal chamber, and which was on a

* level with the eiplanade, at the upper extre«

* mity of the gallery. A flone of fix f^t

* was let down from the icafibld at R, and

* puihed up the paflage to the entrance of the
' chamber at B, (hg. 2 / where it was Hopped by

* the flooring of the chamber, which was two

* finger’s higher than that of the paflTage.

* They afterwards let the fione of fix feet fall

* over this paflage, which 1 before ipoke of

* as fufpended in the ipace Z, Then, the

* workmen having retired through the aper-

* ture V, and this aperture clofed, two other

* flones, of leven feet and a hal^ were let

* down from the icaflbld, and perfectly filled

* up the paflTage, which was nineteen feet long.

* We may fuppoie that, to facilitate their

* work, they had fixed to the wall at the end

* of the gallery, next the efplanade, and oppo-

* fite to the flones ranged on the fcaffold, a

* thick iron crook, with a ^rong pulley, by

* which workmen on the platform might

* raiie the Hones one after another Horn the

* IcaflTold, and let them down upon the plat*

* form i that afterwards the workmen made a
' fquare hole on the fide the Hone next

* themfelves, three or four finger’s deep, and

CL4 wider

LETTERS

23a

* wider at bottom than at top, into which

* they infcrted two pieces of iron, thickeft at

* the bottom, with two rings, and wedged

* in with iron. Thcfe precautions would

* give them a certain purchafe to raife the

* ftones over the fcafFold with the rope that

* paiTed through the rings to fufpend theni

* by means of the pulley, and afterwards

* gently let them down on the efplanade or

* platform, whence they might be removed,

* without much trouble, to their place of

* deftination.

* Having filled the firft paflTage, they mufl

* next clofe up that of letter N, the extent

* of which was a hundred and eighteen feet,

* leading, as I have laid, into the chamber O,

* wh- re tiie corpfe of the queen had pro-

• bahly I.een deposited. This \vas not a dif-

* fcult work. They next coliccfled as many

* ftones as were novrelTary to cover the entrance
‘ of this pr.ff '^0 to hll un the ltoovc I., and

* the triangular platform of ten feet LM,

* which was before noticed, at the entrance of

* the gallery. A hundred feet iuore of thtfc
‘ ftones were wanting to fill up the pafiage

* H, through which the pyramid was forced,

* and which, for the fpace of eighty feet in

* length.

ON EGYPT.

233

* length, is totally disfigured. A hundred

* and twenty-four feet of ftone more was
‘ wanting for the paflage P beneath the gal-

* lery, and between the banks and over which
‘ the fcaffolding was raifed. It then was

* perfedtly clofed, except that the lafl ilonc

* found fome impediment from an eleva-

* tion of four or five fingers, which, as I

* have already remarked, is at the end of this

* paflage, and which has not been omitted

* in the plate.

‘ What I have faid, concerning ihefe paf-
‘ fages, their filling up, and the intention of
' the gallery, may appear new and bold

* enough to occalion ibme critic to treat it
'as chimerical, or at leaft conjc/hiral ; nor
' do I require implicit faith; but the honour
' of having imagined a very probable fyftein
' cannot be denied me, capable of explaining,

‘ at a glance, wonders which have hitr.erto
' been unknown. I will go farther, vr.d dare

* aflirm, whoever will pay attention to my
' oblervations, their connecftion and confe-

* quciices, will find it impohibic to deny that
‘ my conjectures, if lb the critic ihaii pleale
' to call them, are lo .ch founded tiiat they
^ mufl be tiiought trutns. f or my own part,

‘ after

234

LETTERS

after all the refcarches, all the reflexions I
‘ have made on the natural flruXure of the

* pyramid, I boldly declare it is impoflible

* thefe things could be othcrwiie than as I

* have defcribed them. I fee immediately that.

* the pyramid finiihcd, that is to fay, the grooves

* made, and t]:ie gallery roofed, no Rone

* could have been brought into this gallery

* large enough to clofc the paRages from

* within to without 5 and that the foie care of

* the architeX was to prevent thofe from bc-

* ing extraXed which he had brought hither

* to (hut it up in, what he fuppofed, an invi-

* fible manner. I perceive his deijgn in

* making the long groove L at the bottom of

* the gallery, and that it could only have been

* cut for bringing the ftones which were

* afterwards to fill up the inner pafikge, and

* by the ftoppage 1 find at the upper end of

* this groove, judge that it muft itfelf have

* been alfo filled up with ftones, after the

* paftage had been abfolutely ftopped. I am
' confirmed in the double ufe of this groove,

* by its exquiiite poliOi ; its length, 1 oblerve,

* is proportionate to that of the inner paftage :

* 1 fee this paftage is ftill in part ftopped,

* that is tc fay, at its entrance F ; 1 alfb fee

‘ thc'^

ON EGYPT.

035

* they have not penetrated into .the pyramid

* through this true paflage» but, on the con«

* trary, have been obliged to make a falle one,

* through which, again coming to the fides of

* the paHage, they have more eahly attacked

* the Hones that filled it : 1 likewiie find it

* injured through its whole extent, which in-

* forms me recourfe was obliged to be had to

* violence to open its and further conclude, it

* is thus injured, as far as where the gallery

* begins, becaufe the Hones it contained were

* broken in this paHage ; and that, for the

* fpace of a hundred and twenty- four feet,

* there were, in the groove, and behind thefe

* Hones, four hundred and Hfteen feet of other

* Hones, ready continually to fucceed thofe

* which Hiould have been removed from the

* paflage, and to fill the void they would have

* left. 1 even fufpedt thofe who forced

* the pyramid were acquainted with this fuc-

* cefiion of Hones, fhut in by die groove ; had
‘ they not, they would have been fatisfied, no

* doubt, with breaking the Hones which

* filled the pafTage in the opening they had

* forced. This would have been the eafieH

* mode, and, if they took another, it was from

* the knowledge they had of the Hones which

f were

LETTERS

*36

* were ready to glide through the groove into

* thepaffage, as faft as it was emptied.

‘ I have already hinted, that there may
‘ be other pafTages, which flill remain clofed,

* in the pyramid, and it is not, perhaps, with-

* out reafon they have been fearched for; but,

* unfortunately, their learch was mifguided,

* when directed to the bottom of the two cham-

* hers. If there fliould be another palTagebcfide
‘ thofe already known, they oufdit, paft contra-

* didfion, to icek it between the two chambers;

* norcan its entrance beany v\liere but toward

* the middle of the groove j I muft alfo
*■ mention that the Ihort projecting lines, at

* letter M, denote certain holes, purpofely

* made at the building cf the pyramid.

* Thele holes were to ferve as fteps to thofe

* who, from the pafiage N, leading to the
' Arii chamber, wi/hed to afoend the groove,

* v.'hich, as I have faid, is interrupted, at

* this part^ or ‘defeend, t)ie fnne way, into

* this paliage. I have faid that a man

* might pafs from the bottom of the groove,

* upright, on the fcaffcld. No doubt, on

* both (ides of the gallery, and, from the

* top to the bottom, under the fcaffoid, there

* were ropes, at different didanccs, fixed to

* beams.

ON EGYPT.

^37

* beams, in order that thofe who wifhed to
' afcend or defcend through the groove might

* without flipping. They firfl: fcrved the work-

* men in conilrudting the gallery, and cloflng
' the paflagcs, and, afterwards, thofe who

* viflted the chambers, thofe who tranfported
‘ the corpfes of the king and queen, and,

‘ Anally, the peribns who afeended the royal
‘ chamber, with the coffin of the king,

* there to remain and die.

‘ Thus, there is no doubt but that, by
‘ means of flones placed on the feaflbld, all
‘ thefe palTages, made within the pyramid,

* were Ailed.

* Having Aniflied their work, nothing
‘ remained but for the men, who were

* within, to get out, unlefs we fuppofe they
^ beean bv breaking the feaflbld, and the
' wood it was made of, and that they ufed
^ the fame means to get thefe materials out
‘ of the pyramid, ts they did to get out
" themfelves. l-lie aperture by which they

* effedlcd this was the w'ell 1 have men-

* tioned, which is on the right hand, at

* entering the gallery, and which occupies

* a part of the bottom of the benching,
riAng two feet in the wall : it is oval,

‘ and

438 3L E T T £ R S

* and its fituation and descent are indicated

* at I.

* This well defcends towards the bottom
' of the pyramid by a line almoft perpendi-

* cular* but a little inclining, Ibmething in

* the form of the Hebrew letter Lamed, as

* may be feen in the plate. About fixty
'* feet from the mouth, is a iquare window,

* through which there is an entrance to a

* fmall grotto, cut in the mountain, which is

* not here of folid (lone, but a kind of gravel,

* the particles of which ftrongly adhere. This

* grotto extends from Bait to Weft, and may

* be above fifteen feet long, after which is

* another groove, dug likewile in the rock,

* very fteep, approaching the perpendicular.

* It is two feet four inches wide, two feet and
‘ a half high, and defcends through a fpaceof

* a hundred and twenty-three feet, after

* which nothing is found but fands and ftones,

* either purpof^y thrown there, or fallen of

* themfelves. 1 am convinced this pafiage

* was only defigned as a retreat for workmen

* who were at the building of the pyramid ;

* its declivity, winding route, fmallnefs, and

* depth, are certain proofs the coming from

* this well, which could not have been efied-

* ed

ON EGYPT.

*39

* ed till after many turnings, perhaps, not till

* after having mounted back towards its
‘ mouth, could only, I have no doubt, have
‘ been through a paffage, over which was a

* row of Hones, which they had found the

* art to Hop, and which fell down into this
‘ paiTage, by the means of fome fpring fet in

* motion by them, when all the workmen had
‘ retired, and thus doled it up for ever. We

* do not find this aperture has ever been at-

* tempted i whether it be that they were igno*

* rant of it, or that its fmallnefs impeded the

* workmen. The pyramid has only been

* attacked by the royal route, through which

* the corpfe of the king muH have been

* taken, and all the people, living or dead,
‘ to be buried with him. By the fame route
‘ the attendant mourners muH have entered

* the pyramid, and have come out, after

* having paid their 1^ jduties to the mo

* narch, and d^ofited his corple in the

* lepulchre hini^f had cholen.

* Nor muif it be fuppofed that all thole

* who worked at this vaft edifice were

* acquainted with its interior Hrufture, nor

* even that fuch knowledge was to be ob-

* tained by entering the pyramid after it was

* finilhed.

240

LETTERS

* finiflied. This was a fecret known only to

* the architeds who had planned this proud

* edifice, or at leaft, to a final] number of

* feledb perfons, who worked under their

* diredlion, to form the pafilages I have juft

* mentioned, in this my defcription of the

* pyramid. It is, moreover, moft probable

* thefe workmen were not venal, or capable,

* from any motive whatever, of betraying
‘ fuch a fecret : they were, no doubt, perfons

* chofon from thofe moft worthy, and moft
‘ attached to the monarch, among the various

* workmen in his forvice, and on whofe

* zeal, probity, gratitude and religion, all

* dependence might be placed. I can readily
believe, to eiifure their faith, the prince

" named them himfelf, before his death, and

* appointed a commodious, peaceable, and

* honourable retreat for them, in the tem-

* i^les, (JJ enriched by the gifts of thefo

* fovereigns, which couid^not fail to accom-
^ pany thefe kind of buildings, and which,

(d) We fee the ruins of ancient buildings, before the
pj'ramids, which probably were temples where offerings
were made for the kings whofe bodies repofed in thefe
fuperb maufoleums.

* as

ON EGYPT.

24X

* as I have before demonflrated, really did

* accompany them.*

Such is the opinion of Maillet concerning
the inlide of the grand pyramid, and, after
twice examining iu with his book in my
hand, I could not but admire the juftnefs of
his remarks. His means of doling the paf-
fages to me appear probable, and they have
certainly been emptied as he has delcribed.

Some Arabian authors pretend, about the
beginning of the eighteenth century, avarice
excited the Caliph Mahmoud to violate this
ancient monument, thinking to find treafures
here, but his hopes were deceived. Some
idols of gold, behde the mummy of the king,
were the foie reward of many years labour,
and exceliive expences. Other oriental wri-
ters attribute this enterprize to the famous
Caliph Aaroun el Ralhid, who lived in the
time of Charlemagne, to whom he lent a
water-clock, the firff feen in France. This
Caliph, who caiyed fcience to dourilb, and
had the bell Gr^ek and Roman works tranf-
lated into Arabic, wilhing to know the
interior of this adoniHiing edifice, had it
opened. Be thefe opinions as they may, we
cannot doubt but the opening of the pyramid

VoL. I. R v.’as

LETTERS

242

was cfFcdted under the government of the
Arabs.

It is alio an inconteftible fa£t that it was
a maufoleum for one of the Egyptian Pharaohs.
The tombs fcattered over the plain, at the
end of which it is built, the farcophagus of
the great chamber, the niche of the chamber
beneath, the teftimony of Herodotus, Strabo,
and the Arabian hiftorians, all prove its truth.
I know that M. Paw (e ), who in his clolet
fees better than travellers, teaches them this
pyramid was the fepulchre of Oliris ; but he
is iingle in an opinion which contradicts faCfcs,
and hiftory. Rendering juftice to the. know-
ledge of this learned gentleman, 1 cannot
avoid, in continuing thefe letters, to remove
ibme errors, eftablifhed by him, relative to
the dietetic fyftem of the Egyptians, and the
Climate.

I have the hoiio Air to be, &c.

(e) Reeh. PkU. fur Its Egypiiens fcf Its Cbinsis, page 50,

LET

ON E G Y P r.

243

LETTER XIX.

^he other pyramids, adjacent places, grotto
of the Santon, the grand Sphinx, its Jigni-^
f cation, and the return to Giza,

To M. L. M.

Giza.

I HAVE collefted the enquiries of the
ancients and moderns concerning the grand
pyramid, have added fuch obfervations as my
own vifits have fiipplied, and hope. Sir, thefe
will, together, give you a fatisfa^Vory idea,
and make the trouble of fearching numerous
volumes, which, to read and refle<ft on,
would but augment your doubts fo long as
you fhall not come and examine them your-
felf with the moft fcrupulous attention,
unneceffary. After , ijieditating over the
defcriptions givfh of thefe ancient monu<*
nients, I own*' I found it impoflible to form
any hxetij^gment, and remained in painful
incertitude. The darkncfs of fo many diffe-
rent opinions concealed the truth, and the
more I read, the lefs I knew ; but, guided by
refletffion, while at the foot of the pyramid,

R 2 and.

244

LETTERS

and, afterwards, in its deep interior gloom,
on its high top, 1 have believed I difcovered
the truth I fought. May it have guided my
pen, and given convi^ion to your mind, for
even in matters of foience, doubt is painful.

Herodotus (f) informs us the expence of
building this pyramid, in vegetables, only,
to feed the workmen, was written in Egyp-
tian charadiers, on its marble. Their re-
moval of the coating has deftroyed thefe
hieroglyphics, but did they remain as they
do in a hundred other parts of Egypt they
would adbrd no pictures of thought. They are
mute and infon/ible as thefloneon which they
are engraved. And muft the language which
would teach us the hi dory of ancient Egypt,
and cad a ray of light over the darknefs that
envelops the drd ages of the earth, be buried
with the prieds by whom it was invented !

(f) £gyp:ian chara^ers are cut on the marble of the
pyramid, dcfcribtng h^>^^'mu^ck•^t coft to feed the work-
men, only in onions and other vegetables. The prieft
who interpreted thefe hieroglyphics \'i me faid it amount-
ed to x6oo talents. Herodotus Euterpe.

The fum will appear chimerical to thole who lhall
calculate in their clofets, but he is not allonlihed at it
who ha^ feen this mountain built of rocks. This paflage
proves, too, that vegetables, in the moft diftant ages,
were, as at prefent, the chief food of the Egyptians.

It

ON EGYPT.

245

It is time we ihould continue our voyage.
Sir.*— Having obferved all that could inte-
reft, we proceeded to the fecond pyramid,
which feems as high as the firft. Strabo affirms
it is fb, Diodorus Siculus the fame; but adds
that the baie of the iecond is lefs fg), and at-
tributes its conftruiStion to Cephren, brother
and fucceftbr to Chemmis, who built the
one 1 have already defcribed. The coating
of this pyramid is deftroyed in many places,
but the fradtures made by force, prove that
men, rather than time, have eftedied this ha-
vock. Sixty feet of the upper part is entire
becauft, no doubt, it was the moft diffi-
cult, to detach. Perhaps thofe who have at-
tempted- to violate this ancient maufoleum,
repelled by the length, difficulty, and expence
of the work, contented themfelves with car-
rying off the outftde marble.

£aft of thele two ovramids, is a third,

•a. ^ ^ ^

which appears ve.y fmall, comparatively,
yet is about three hundred feet fquare (b )»
and was bu'Tt fay Micerinus, who wiftiing
to eqaal'^he fame of his father Chemmis,'

Diodorus Siculus, lib. i. feft. 2,

(hj Strabo, lib. 17.

R 3

W'OUld

246 LETTERS

would coat it with marble from the Thebais
/'ty, which is beautiful, fpotted with black,
of a fine grain, exceedingly hard, and capable
of a pcrfedl poiifh. The prince died when
the work was only half done. The finenels
of the marble has led the Arabs to break it
e£F. Some fiones fiill remain, and fragments
round the bale. The name of Micerinus
was inlcribed on the northern fide (kj, but,
like the hieroglyphics of the grand pyramid,
has been removed with the coating.

Many fables are related by hifiorians of
this pyramid. Some fay it was built by a
famous courtezan, from the gains (he made
by her lovers. Others that an eagle carrying
off the final! flipper of the beauteous Rho-
dope, came to Naucratis, let it fall at Mem-
phis, and that the King, charmed by its
beauteous form, wifiied to know whom it
belonged to, beca|p<Lltfterwards in love with

(i) The quarries of this fine marble are at the upper
end of Egypt, in the mountain at the 'frot of which Sy-
ene was built. There are three forts, the h.'(i a perfeft
black, the fccond only fpotted, and the third mixed
with red. The granite of the two firfi was ufed in the
building of tombs, the other for columns and obeltlks.
(k) Piodorus Siculus, lib. z. fe£t. 2.

Rhodope,

ON EGYPT.

2+7

Rhodope, married her, and that ihe built the
pyramid.

The Arabs, who love the marvellous,
have eagerly credited thefe childilh tales, and
called the pyramid Heramelbent. The an-
cient edifice of the maiden. Round here are
the ruins of three other pyramids (1), built,
lays Diodorus, as maufbleums for the wives
of the Kings who built the great ones.

Oppofite the fecond, eaflward, is the enor-
mous fphinx, the whole body of which, as 1
have faid, is buried in the fand, the top of
the back only to be feen, which is above a
hundred feet long, and is of a tingle tione,
making part of the rock on which the py-
ramids refl. Its head rifes about feven and
twenty feet above the fand. Mahomet has
taught the Arabs to hold all images of men or
animals in detetiation $ and they have disfi-
gured the face with their arrows and lances.
Pliny pretends (m ) the body of Amafis was
depofited within ihis fphinx. Many authors
believe the well of the grand pyramid end-

('/) S^ah Eddin deixiolilbcd them, and built the walls
of Grand Cairo, and the caftle on mount Mokattam,
with the ftones.

Plin. Hift. Nat.

24S letters

ed here, and that the priefts came here, at
certain times, to deliver their oracles ; but
thele are meer conjedtures (n)^

M. Paw ( o) fays, thefe fphinxes, the body
of which is half a virgin, half a lion, are
images of the Deity, whom they reprefent
as a hermaphrodite ; which opinion leems
not to me more happy than that concerning
the fepulchre of Oliris. The Nile increales,
overflows, and inundates Egypt, under the
iigns Leo and Virgo ; and the Iphinx was a
hieroglyphic which told the people when this
moft important event in the whole year (hould
happen, which is the reafon this figure is fo
very often repeated ; it flands before all re-
markable buildings, and meant to fay, “ Inha-
bitants, under fuch a flgn, at fuch a time,
the river fliall overflow your fields, and make
them fertile." While we were admiring the
miracles of ancient Egypt, and M. Adanfon,
firfl royal interpreter at Alexandria, was em-

(n) They bring the cavity on the top of the head of
the fphinx, through which the priefts uwlvvcred their
oracles, as a proof of this opinion ; but this cavity is
only live feet deep, and neither communicates with thg
mouth, nor the body of the (phinx.

( oj Rech. Phil, fur les Egyptiens ^ les Cbimis,

ployed

ON EGYPT.

249

ployed drawings we ikw ten Arabs come
galloping, with their lances, and approaching
within piftol fhot^ either to attack or force
money from us. We had mufkets and pif-
tols, and were very able to repel them } but
on the iirfl fire a whole tribe could have fal-
len upon us. We, therefore bade our cheiks
ipeak to, and tell, them we were their guefis^
and they had taken us under their protedfcion.
This dilarmed them, at once, for they highly
refpeft the rights of hoipitality. Alighting,
they offered to accompany us wherever we
pleafed; but as they do not like to be trou-
bled for nothing, they politely afked fome
gratuity, which we befiowed. This flight
prelent having ratified peace, I heard them
fay, in a half whifper, let us vifit the faint.
Away they went, and I, following, palled the
fiecond pyramid, and flopped with them at
the door of a grotto cut in the rock, into
which, pulling off their fhoes, they went.
I was the only European who imitated
them. The grotto was fpacious, clean, hand,
fbme, apd very cool. At one end was a
niche, fix feet high, before which an old
curtain, with many holes, was drawn. The
Arabs came near, with reverence ; each
. kneeled

2J0 LETTERS

kneeled iii turn, and kiiTed a foot which
was held out under the curtain. My turn
being come, I approached, and faid, O holy
faint, ihew me thy face. My compliment
was taken as an infult, and, judging by my
pronunciation, I was not an Arab, he anfwered,
furlily — anni ia kelb. Leave me dog.
Hearing this, the MulTulmen looked furiouf*
ly at me, and I, haftily, went away ; happy
that my imprudence had no worfe confe-
quences, and promidng never more to hold
Gonverfation with an Egyptian Santon.

Thele men are vagabonds who affedt
total indifference to the riches of this world,
and, living on alms, are guilty of a thoufand
extravagancies which makes them pafs for
infpired. They go intirely naked through
the cities, and, violating decency, blufh not,
publickly, to commit actions which the reft
of mankind conceal in the darknefs of night,
or the veil ofmyftery (p). I cannot defcribe

(PJ A friend from T unis has written to me concerning
a fcene of this nature, which palled i'li'the open city,
between a Santon and a woman. The peop/e refped-
fully furrounded the momentary man and wife, and any
European, who Ihould have ventured to joke ^it the
figbt, would have rifqued being ftoned.

the

o N E G Y P T. 251

the veneration in which the populace hold
thele {hamelefs cynics; women elpecially^who,
naturally timid and modeft, forget, in their
behalf, that referve and pudency ought al-
ways to accompany their fex, and that men,
who with effrontery gratify every appetite,
do not merit fb much refpedt.

Satisfied with feeing and wondering, we
returned to Giza j where we remained fome
days examining the environs. We met, on
our route, fev'eral Chacais, (or Jackalls) which
ran, with great fpeed, towards the mountains.
Thefe fawn coloured animals, the iize of a
dog, have a dragging tail, and a pointed
muzzle. They/ live on hunting, and the
iifh of the lakes. The Arabs call them dib,
and they are the wolves of Africa.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

LET

252

L E T T E R S

LETTER XX.

G/za, sn ancient fuburb of Fojlat ; miftake of
modern trarjellers. *The charming view
cf the Niie. 'The ijlc cf Raotida, Old Cairo,
and the boats which incejfantly pafs up and
down the river 5 with particulars concerning
the manufadiory and making of fal~ ammoniac.

To M. L. M.

Giza.

G I Z A, as you have feen, Sir^ is a fmall
place, governed by a kiache:^ and owes its
origin to the governors of the Caliphs, who
choie Foftat for their place of refidencc The
ancients, who have exa<fi:ly defcribed the envi-
rons of the pyramids, do not mention Giza,
which was founded by the Arabs, as its name
ihews. (q) Shaw was deceived in placing it on

(q) Giza, in Arabic, Hgnifies angle or end ; and this
name was given it becaufe, when Mafr Jfofiat flourifhed,
Giza, one of its fuburbs, was fcparated from it'only by the
Nile. Macrizi, fpeaking of the defcent of Loi'is IX.
and mentioning one end of Damietta, fays, Tbe'^Giza
of Damietta. ^

the

ON EGYPT.

253

the ancient fcite of Memphis ; for, befide that
there are neither ruins nor antiquities here,
the Greeks, Romans, and efpeciaily the
Arabs, have (b pofitively marked the iituation
of the ancient metropolis of Egypt that, read-
ing them attentively, it is impoffibie to be
miilaken, as I think 1 ihall prove in my next
letter.

Giza is furrounded by immenie plains,
profufely covered with vegetables, flax, and
corn. Here they grow the carthamus, im-
properly, by the people of Provence, called
fafranon, the flower of which they buy and
lend to Marfeilies. to ufe in dying the cloths
of Languedoc.y The Egyptians, wanting
wood, make fuel of the ilalk : the pod in-
cludes a grain, from which they extract sseit-
belou, loft oil, of an inflpid tafle, but eaten
by the common people, though feldom ulcd
by the rich, but iu the illuminations £0 fre-
quent in Egypt.

This fmall town has a manufaAory of ial-
ammoniac, into the laboratory of which 1
feveral tynes went, and, notwithflanding the
horrit:^ infectious imoke, obierved the pro*
ceduife. Imagine arches with parallel aper-
tures or flits, through which the necks, two

inches

*54

LETTERS

inches long, and equal in diameter, of round
glafs- bottles, are put, which, before they are
thus ranged, are coated with clay. The
interdices between each bottle are alfo Hop-
ped with clay ; the bottles are contained
within the arch, and the necks are fupported
by walls, the neck only being expofed to the
a&ion of the open air ; thefe bottles are full
of loot, fwept from the chimnies of the com-
mon people, whofe condant fuel is dung of
animals, dried in the fun, and mixed with
chopped draw. A fire is lighted underneath
the mouths of the bottles, of the fame fub-
dances, and is kept burning three days and
nights. The bottles are ilndopped, and the
exhaling vapour of the heated foot, infenfibly
attaches itielf to the necks, where it con-
denfes, ciydallizes, and forms a bright and
folid body, about two inches thick. The
procefs over, the bottle is broken, the adies
cleared, and the cake of fal -ammoniac, fuch
as fent to Europe, obtained, fird taking from
its underfide a black crud, which has not

acquired the degree of perfection iicccilary;
but this crud, being put into other\bottles,
yields, on a lecond procefs, the mod edeemed
,and mod perfe<d: fid-ammoniac. About two

thoufand

ON EGYPT.

ass

dioufaad quintals are annually fabricated ia
the difierent manufadtories of the country ; it
is an article of commerce between the Egyp-
tians and Europeans, being ufed by pewterers,
goldfmiths, founders, and chymifts.

The French merchants of Grand Cairo
have a country- houle at Giza, and a fmall
garden, with orange, lemon, and date-trees,
iituated on the bank of the Nile. The beau-
tiful ifland of Raouda, and its odoriferous
bowers, the mekias, again (I which the waves
beat with violence. Old Cairo, and its fur-
rounding gardens, with a multitude of boats
which incedantly crofs the river, are ieen
from its windows : exteniive and verdant
prolpedts^-ariegated with houies, moiques,
or more diftant minarets, charm the eye,
inducing the ipedtator to fit hours contem-
plating thele fmiling objedts, while the frelh
air, which follows the courfe of the Nile in
currents, comes, reanimates the lenles, and
gives the ibul that energy which is necefiTary
to tafie the beautiful and the fiiblime. To
Giza therefore, fatigued by bufinefs, or fuffo-
cated by the heats of Grand Cairo, reverberated
from the burning fands of Mokattam, the
French come to repofe : at Giza they recover

their

256 LETTERS

their health* and> in pure and cooling airr*
breathe life in the aromatic exhalations of
plants and flowers.

1 have the honour to be, 6cc.

i T~

o EGYPT.

«57

L E T T E R XXL

On the true ^tuation of Memphis^ corfrrned by
Herodotus, Strabo, PUny, and the Arabian
authors i modern travellers r fitted, ‘the. city,
as it was in the time of Herodotus and Dio^
dor us Siculus % its temples, palaces, and lakes
defcribed, . Rotation from Ahulfeda, proving
its totfd defruBion ly Amrou 5 ruins fill feen
near the village Metf, the poor remains tf the
ancient Memphis,

Tp M. L. M.

Grand Cairot

■X*TSfc-4inse; Sir, to /peak of Memphis, and
examine the opinions of writers concerning
this celebrated city, which are very oppoiite %
ibme pretending it flood where Giza now
(lands, and others placing it five leagues far-
ther (buth. Is it not afionifhing that the (cite
of the ancient metropolis of Egypt, a city
near (even leagues in circumference, (r)
containijig magnificent temples and pa-
laces which arc laboured to render eternal,

(r) A hiindx«d and £fty ftadia. Diodorus* Siculus,
iib. t. fedt! 2,

•VoL, I. S

(hould

aijS LETTERS

fhouldat prelent bea fubjeckof diipute among
the learned? Thus^ in their turn, are all
the proud monuments of man buried in the
dud. Hiftof’y, I hope, will teach us to find
the remaining vefliges of Memphis, and dif-
lipate that darknefs in which erudition has
itfelf 'endeavoured to hide them.

“ Queen Semiramis built the caftle of
** Grand Cairo (s)^ into which Ihc put a
** numerous garrifbn of Babylonians to be
a check upon A^mphis, which flood
** facing it, well of the Nile, and prevent
rebellion in the capital” (t)»

Shaw is of the fame opinion, and fays,
the ancient Memphis, the n;mains of which
are now buried and covered over, . flood,, op*^
polite Cairo, on the bank of the Nile next
Lybia, at the village of Giza ( ii),

Pococke, an exadt obferver, comes after-
ward, and, .infpe<^ing the place, and read-
ing the ancients, is of a contrary opinion
(x). War is .declared among the learned

(s) \ think 1 have removed this lirll error in Let-
ter VII. and proved it was built by Salah Eu-^in.
ft) Father Sicard, Lettres Edifiantes, p. 471.'

(«) Show’s Travels, vol. ii. chap. 4. ..

(x) Pococke’s Travels, book i. chap. 5.

• of

d E G Y P I". 25^

England^ and the authors of the Mo-
dern Univerfal Hiftory have pronounced the
following lentcnce.

“ The city of Mefr (the Memphis of the old
geographers) was fituated on the weftern, or
** Lybian, bank of the Nile, and occupied
“ the fpot on which the village of Geeza at
prefent {lands. This we learn from Dr.*
** Shaw, whofe geogrrtphical obfervations re-
lating to Egypt and Arabia Petrasa are more
** curious, and fuperior in point of truth, at
leaft probability, learning, accuracy, and
** judgment, to thofe of any other modern

traveller In fine, his book will iland

** its ground when all the efib/ts of envy and
iTJaiire haVe been {pent ; when fome of thofe
'* others, WTitten in imitation of it, or with a
“ defign to depreciate it, will be buried in
oblivion, or, at Icaft, meet with that con-
** tempt which they fo Juftly deferve,” (yj
Here, . Sir, is a very dogmatic decifion
again ft all travellers who {hall dare to con-
tfaditft Dr. Shaw. If the authors of the .
Univerf^r 'Hiftory thought they had no pe-

(y) Alod. Uniy. Hift. vol* i. ps^e 43S, edit. 1759*

S a cafion

L E T T E*R S

260

cafion to read the ancients, they ought, at
lead, to have looked over the Arabian
geographers j they would not then fo em-
phatically have fupported an evident error.
Permit me to cite my authorities.

** Memphis is fituated in the narroweft
part of Egypt* on the weflern border of
** the Nile, the waters of which form a
lake on the north and weft of the ci-
« ty”

This is a vague defcription i for, to de-
termine the iituation of Memphis, it is ne-
ceftary the lake ftill ftiould fublift, and that
the valley of Egypt lhoul4 he meafured to
find its narroweft part. Strabo (a) has been
more circumftantial. ** From ihe caftlc-of'
** Babylon (b) the pyramids near Memphis
“ are fcen, on the other fide of the Nile.—
** Lakes, in part, furround the city ; tke
buildings which were the palaces of the
kings are in ruins, and extend from the
** mountain to the plain where the city is
built, as far as the borders of the lake,

{%) Herodotus Euterpe.
faj Strabo, lib. 17.

(i) i marked its fcite in Letter VIU.

** leaded

o N E G Y P T. ^6t

(haded by a facred grove. Forty ftadia
from Memphis is a rocky hill, where a
great number of pyramids are built.**
■That Strabo faw the pyramids from the
caflle of Babylon is not wonderful, iince
they are feen from the fortrefs which over-
looks Grand Cairo, and much farther. He
adds, they were near Memphis, on a hill,
diftant only forty ftadia, that is to (ay five
miles ; which will not agree with Giza,
that being three leagues from the neareft
pyramids, and fix from tho(e of Saccara.
But 1 will not dwell on this, becaufe Pliny
removes the difficulty paft doubt

“ The three grand pyramids, feen by the
** watermen from all parts, fiand on a bar-
ten and rocky hill, between Memphis
** and the Delta, one league from the Nile,
** two from Memphis, and near the village
“ of Bufiris.**

This pafiage irrevocably fixes .the con-
tefied (pot, and fully di(plays truth : for
he fays the pyramid ftood between Memphis
and the Delta, and Giza, certainly, (lands be-
tween the pyramids and the Delta 5 it,

ff/ Plin* Hifi. Nat. lib. ^ 6 r cap. 12.

/ S 3 , therefore.

LETTERS

2b*

therefore, is impoilible Memphis could be
iituated at Giza. Or, which is the fame
thing, Memphis, according to Pliny, was
two leagues ibuth of the pyramids, and
Giza is three leagues north ; wherefore, it
cannot have been ■ built where Memphis
ilood i nor can Pliny be faid to be mif-
taken, for his defeription is preciie. Bufiris
flill fubfiits, now Boiifir, not far from the
pyramids, which are a * .league from the
river. The fmall town Mcnf, the ancient
Memphis, is about two leagues fouth of
thefe monuments. The authors of the Uni-
verlal Hiftory would, have ibeen cautious of
implicitly believing, and blindly adopting,
an erroneous opinion had they read this
paflage; efpecially as it had been oppoied
by one of their, own countrymen, who
was judicious, and well informed ; they
would not have fulminated an anathema
againO: all who doubted in Dr. Shaw. I,
like them, render all homage to his me-
rits, his book abounds in valuable know-
ledge.; but, as errors and truths are blended,
i cannot avoid removing the j&rft, w)teneveF
opportunity offers.

(d) Pococke’s Travels.

A kih^

ON EGYPT.

263

A king of Egypt, having turned the courfe
of the Nile, f e) which diffufed itfelf over the
fands of Lybia, and the Delta being formed
from the mud (f) of its waters, canals, were
cut to drain Lower Egypt. The monarchs
who, till then, had rehded at Thebes, re-
moved nearer the mouth of the river, to enjoy
an air more temperate, and be more ready to
defend the entrance of their empire. They
founded the city of Memphis, and endea-
v^oured to render it equal to the ancient capi-
tal, decorating it with many temples, (g)
among which that of Vulcan drew the atten-
tion of travellers : its grandeur, fumptuouf-
nefs, and rich ornaments, each excited admi-
ration. Another temple, belide the barren

(e) See Letter I.

(f) Thougii h iftory, which proves the Delta formed
from the fu.uis auJ mire of the Nile, no longer
fublilled, and tiiough we fiiould reject the opinions of
Herodotus, Strabo, Diodorus, Pliny, &c. y^ho affirm the
fact, wc could not but admit it ; having conlidered this
iine part of Egypt. Throughout the Delta, no other .
Hones arc found than thofe brought for the building of
temple*-/ and grand edifices ; nor is any thing to be
obtained but ti:c black mud of the Nile, mixed with
fand, by digging in any part w’batevcr twenty feet deep.

^g) Strabo, lib. 17.

' • S 4 • plainj

264

LETTERS

plain, was dedicated to Serapis, the principal
entrance to which was a vaft Sphynx avenue.
Egypt has always been oppre£ed with fands,
which, accumulating here, had half buried
Ibme of the fphynx, and others up to the neck,
in the ' time of Strabo ; at preient th^ have
difappeared. To prevent this difafter, they
built along mound, (b) on the South fide,
which allb ferved as a barrier againfi: the in-
undations of the river, and the attacks of
enemies. The palace of the kings, and a for-
trefs built on the mountain, defended it on
the Weft, the Nile on the Eafi^ and to the
North were lakes, beyond ' which was the
plain of mummies, and the caufeway which
led from Bufiris to the great pyramids. Thus
lituated, Memphis commanded the vallgy of
Egypt, and communicated by canals with the
lakes Mceris, and Mareotis. Its citizens might
traverfe the kingdom in boats, and it, . there-
fore, became the centre of wealth, commerce,
and arts, where aftronomy and geometry,
invented by the Egyptians, flouriihed. (t)
Hither the Greeks came to obtain know-
ledge, which, carrying into their own coun^

(h) Diodorus Siculus, lib. r.

(i) Strabo, lib. 17.

try.

ON EGYPT.

265

try, they brought to perfedlion. Thebes and
her hundred gates lay forgotten, and on j^e
hill near Memphis role thole proud monu-
ments, thole fuperb maulbleums, which, alone,
of the wonders of the world, have braved
dellruflive time, and men Hill more dellruc-
tive. The glory of Memphis endured for
ages, till Cambyles came, at the head of a
formidable army, and laid Egypt defolate ; by
this ferocious conqueror were her temples
and famous edifices dellroyed. This was his
endeavour, as it was to extinguilh the Iciences,
which a people, furrounded by waters and
deferts, had, in their fertile valley, hrll invent-
ed. With their privileges the priells loll
a part of the knowledge that was attached to
them. Memphis, however, disfigured as it
was, preferved fuch remains of magnificence,
that it Hill was the firll city of the world,
and llruggled, for more than two centuries,
to lhake off the odious yoke of the Perlians.
Alexander, to whom Ihe yielded, revenged
her wrongs, and, abandoning himfelf to guilty
phrenay, renewed the horrors Cambyles had
committed, at Thebes and Memphis, on
Perfepolis . Is there not juftice for empires

Qj^intus Curtitts.

as

466 LETTERS

as for individuals ? Charmed with the beau^
ties of Egypt, tlie antiquities of which he
vifited, he founded a city there in his own
name, feveral ages before the Chriftian sera,
which the Ptolemies, hiS fucceflbrs, em-
belliilied, endeavouring to join.the majeftic
architedture of Egypt to the elegance of
Greece. The Pharos rofe the admiration of
the world i Alexandria became another Rome,
and arts and fciences, beneath the eye of the
fovereign, Ipread their brilliancy afar. Com-
merce attracted wealth and abundance hither,
and to the new capital Pvlcmphis doily faw its
inhabitants remove. fIJ Under Auguftus the
latter was ftill a great city, populous, and full
of foreigners, yet was but then the fecond in
Egypt. Six hundred years after it was con-
quered by the Arabs, after a long and bloody
fiege, who took it by aiTault, and, according
to Abulfeda, effedled its deftrudlion. . I will
cite the paiiage from this learned hiilorian,
becauie it proves the feite Pliny gave Mem-
phis, and deilroys the error of various
writers, (mj who pretend that the governors,
under the emperors of Condantinoplc, rehded

( l ) Strabo, lib. 17.

(m) Maillet-— l'i:thcr Sicard.

at

ON EGYPT.

267

at Grand Cairo, when Amrou conquered
Ugypt. In my eighth letter I thought I
had demonftrated this city did not then exid : ;
what follows is an additional proof : Menf
“ C^J> (that is to fay Memphis) is the ancient
“ Mafr ^oj of Egypt, (landing on the wef*
“ tern (hore of the Nile. Amreu, (bn of
“ El Aas, took it by afTault, totally deftroyed
“ it, and, by order of Omar, fon of Kettab,
** built the city of Foftat, on the oppolite
“ (bore. There are remarkable ruins at
“ Menf — the remains of its ancient Iplendor,

(m J “ Menf hia mafr elcadima ouahia an garbi el Nil.

Oua lemma fatahha Amrou ebn el Aas kharabha oua
** bena el Foitat men elbar clakhar cl Hiarki be amr
** Omar ebn el Khattab. Oua be nicnf star cadimo
** azima maufkio men e’fakhour oua el menhouta el ma-

foura. Oua alaiha dahan akhdar, oua khairo bak£

** ila zamanna, hada lam ictkhaier men cl ihams oua
“ khairha ala toul hada cldemma. Oua menf men malr
“ ala marhcla cariba.*’

Jthulfeda^ Defcripti'tK cfEfytt.

(0) I obferved, in -my letter on old Cairo, that the
Arabs always bellow the name of Mafr on the capital of
Egypt. Memphis bore it till ruined by Amrou ; Foftat
next, and preferved it, till Schaouar fet fire to the city
to prevent its being taken by the French ; ilnce when
Grand Cairo is called Mafr, and Foftat Mafir datic, the
aijfbicnt Mafr, or the ancient capital,

I

** which

a68 LETTERS

** which are fuffered to decay ; Aones the
** fculpture and painting of which excite won-
der, and whofe colours neither fun nor air
** have yet effaced. Menf is a (mail day’s
** journey from Grand Cairo.”

This agrees with Pliny’s defcription, and
with what yet remains. The village of Menf,
a feeble refidue of an immenfe citv, is fix
leagues from Grand Cairo, on the. weflern
fide of the Nile, precifcly where the learned
naturalift marks its fcite ; it being four leagues
from Grand Cairo to the pyramids, and two
from thence to Menf. The ruins round it
confirm the teflimony of Abulfeda, and the
lakes (p J mentioned by Herodotus and Strabo
have not entirely difappeared, one being near
Saccara, with a grove of Acacia on the weft
of Menf, the other prccifely North, which,
during the inundation, extends to the caufe-
way thrown up in the marfh which feparates
the Nile from the grand pyranuds, and was
made to facilitate the conveyance of the mar-
ble for. the paftages and coating of theft

(p) Thefe lakes, which all antiquity defcribes near
Memphis, are proof demonftrative it was fituated at
Menf, and not at Giza, for there is no trace of any lake
within three leagues of the latter.

edifices.

O N E G Y P T. 269

edifices (q)» The mound fubfifis with bridges
built to leave the free circulation to the wa-
tcrs, and, during the time of inundation, thole
who come to lee the pyramids coall; it in
boats.

Thefe, Sir, were the lakes which the Mem«
phians were obliged to crols when they con-
veyed their dead to the plains where the
kings had railed their maulbleums. As there
were temples here ( r ) where expiatory facri-
fices were otfered for the decealed, as thefe
lilent abodes were inviolable, and the impious
man who Ihould have dared profane and trou-
ble their profound peace would have been
punilhed with death, all the Egyptians, wilhed
here to be entombed. Each family lunk, in
the rock covered with fands, a gloomy habi-
tation, where, in their turn, father and fon
were depolited with religious piety, little fup-
pofing that a time Oiould come when the en-
lightened people of Europe would have them
torn from their fepulchres; or that their bodies,
buried and prelerved with lb much care,

(q) Herodotus, Euterpe.

(rj Each great pytamid had its temple, and priefls,
whofe office was to immolate expiatory \i6tims, and pray
i(>x the dead.

would

470

LETTERS

would, become an object of vile traiEc. Tlse
Greeks, who have been prcfcnt (s) at the
judgments the Egyptians, alone, of all the
earth’s inhabitants, pronounced upon the
dead, and who have leen the places where
their bodies were brought in boats, on
paying a fmall fee, have invented the fa-
ble of Charon and Hell. The beauty
of the plains beyond that vaft folitude, the
fands, the canals, by w’hich they were watered,
prelCTving their eternally verdant banks, gave
them the idea of the Styx, the Lethe, and the
Elyfian fields. Which their fruitful and fine
imaginations embellifiied with all the beauties
of poetry. The fable gained credit among
the populace, and became an article of pagan
religion.

Such, Sir, are the refle<ftions which atten-
tively reading the ancient?, and feeing the
environs of the pyramids, have produced:
may they be thought worthy your attention,
and pofiefs the merit of truth.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

fsj Of(pia yssp Cfctyr.’flriw 7rflEfa?a>.ovTa ftsTAJ'JgoflcP

rjj; lu rat otovvcnxxafi

Diod. Sic. p, t^.Kd. Hen. Steph. 155?* \

L E T-

LETTER XXIL

From Boulac to Damictta : that branch of
the Ntle^ its canals, ths ‘villages, towns,
and antiquities, on the banks, defcribed,
OJj^he fair of T'anta ; the manners f the
inhabitants of that part of Egypt ; the
zro~ses near Semejinoud ; the. cLlcksn ovens
fit prlanfoiira, ‘ivhere the French army was

def

rated \

and

the

7!av‘'!:.'7t/on r,i t-.c

To M.

It ii fiTacen months hace you received my
laft lettijv ; during this long interval anxious
fricndn:iip has often painted the misfortunica:i
to which a traveller is expoied, in a barba-
rous country, and has more than once made
you fear for my life. Honoured be the feel-
ings which to me are fo precious, and which
my fyn^pathetic heart repays. But calm
your apprehenlions i travellers have a deity
W'ho cxa<5ls prudence and fortitude, and,

when

ITS BETTERS

wheh religioufly obeyed, (belters them from
danger. Ceafe then your alarms, and attribute
my iilence to my continual journeys and
labours. Yet, Sir, forget not to write to
me. The worth of a letter is here fully
known; it is opened with tran(jx)rt, read
with avidity, and the day of its reception is
a day of feftivity. Beneath this burnir(j|^fun,
amid thefe deferts, the want of a friend is
powerfully felt-j and whatever brings him
to memory is mod precious. Seldom does
a Frenchman find, among Turks and Arabs,
a heart that vibrates with his own, and
crouding fenfations are born and die unpar-
ticipated. Pity me, therefore, and (end me
what confolation abience can receive; that,
while 1 read characters your hand has traced,
1 may fee, may hear, you ; while fancy,
fweet enchantrefs, but illufive, gives me
momentary happinefs, and (trews the thorny
road of life with flowers. — Let us continue
our corr^ondence.

During the long filence of which you com-
|>lain, my time has been employed. Sir, in
making two journeys into Lower Egypt,
vifiting the towns and canals of the ea(tern
branch of the Nile, and living a year \at

Damietta^

ON EGYPT.

273

Damietta« to acquire more perfectly the Arabic
dialed lix>ken in Syria. A thoufand times
have I wandered over the delicious environs
of this city, not yet fatished with contem<»
plating the beauties of nature, with behold-
ing the happy pidure of plenty. I have
traced the army of Louis IX. from its land-
ing t® Manibura. Honefl: Joinvills has writ-,
ten the hiftory.of that expedition, the begin-
ning of which was lb profperous, and the
end fo unhappy ; but his narration is obfcure,
and leaves much to wifli. The curious
accounts of the Arabic authors, and an
infpedion of the places, have given me the
means of elucidating and lupplying . infor*
mation which he could not acquire. When
1 have deicribed my journey, I will endeavour
to retrace this ihort, but interefling, part of
our hiftory.

The fifteenth of February I Went .for Da*
mietta, in a canjai, that is to lay,, a lefs boat
than a mach, and built for pleafure. It con-
tained a fmall, and a larger cabin, vvhich we
. carpetted ; a mat in the form of a canopy,
railed on the deck, llieltcrcd us from the fun,
while we beheld the country we palled. A

VoL. I. T faithful

*74 LETTERS

faithful JanifTary, who had been in*the army
of the famous All Bey, and an Arabian fer-
vant, accompanied me, all well armed, a
ve^ neceflary precaution on the branch of
Damietta, where attacks are continual. The
FeUabt (r) who inhabit the (bores, come,
under favour of darknefs, aiTail the boats,
and, if not reiifted, murder the paBengers,
and feize their effedls. A foreigner ought to
be well adured of hi$ (ervants, and the fidelity
of the patron or captain, who, often in collu-
fion with the thieves, (hare the fpoil. Taught
by experience, I give this advice to future
travellers, having nearly loft my life for not
'having followed it at firft.

The moft eftential ftores are rice and coffee,
which we took care to provide. The villages
will iupply milk, eggs, and poultry j we added
Ibme bottles of old wine of Cyprus, which
Mahamet AiTalama, fjJ though a good muf-
fulman, was very happy to partake of occa*

{’rj Egyptian hulbandmen.

ff J Mahamet Aflalama, the JanifFary, who accompa-
nied me, was honeft, brave, and faithful. I had great
obligations to him during my travels, and at my depar-
ture he entered into the (esvict of the French conful at
Alexandria.

fionally.

ON EGYPT.

*75

(lonally, though always in a corner, and taking
care not to be feen even by the boatmen.

We left Boulac about one o’clock^ with a
ferene Iky, and a heat as temperate as one of
our fineft days of fpring. The. inundation had
been over about fix weeks, and the waters of
the Nile ihlenfibly decreafed. The current
being rather flow, and the north wind blow-
ing, the. men were obliged to take to. their
oars. Wheat and barley began to ripen. The
carthamus and dourra, or Indian millet, were
a foot high ; and the third crop of lucern was
fpringing ; cucumbers and^ water - melons
fpread their flexible branches over the river
banks, and beans were almofl ripe. The
foliage of the trees was verdant, but diffe-
rently tincStured, and the orange and citron
were in flower. Such was the aipedt of the
country on the fifteenth of February.

Continuing to row, an hour’s pafTage
brought us to the mouth of the canal of
Adrian, which ran to that of the Red 3ca,
traverfing the village Kelioub, and pafling
north of Heliopolis. Two leagues lower is the
village Charakhania, below which the Nile
ieparates on each fide the Delta. Here Hero-

X a dotus

ipS ' LETTERS

dotus and Pomponius Mela placed the ancient
City bf Cercafofum. ('/J D'AnvUle, following
Strabo, delcribes it on the wedern diorc of the
Nile, at the village El Arkfas,

We are compenlated for die llownefs with
which, we advance by the amuling fight of
boats continually paffing and repafiing, and
a rich country, various in its produ(Stions,
and abounding in cattle. Arrived at Batn el
Bakara, where the Nile divides, we left the
branch of Roletta, and proceeded along that
of Damictta. The firft elbows eaftward, the
fecond flows north, in a right line, therefore
has the greateft quantity of water, for which
reafon the mofl confiderable canals are cut
from it, as I (bail fiiew.

. The fun lets, and our mariners dread
pafllng the night oppofite Dagoua, a fmall
town where thieves harbour. . In the time of
Father Sicard» a certain Habib, had eftab-
blifiied his tyranny there, and, making pre-
Tents to the men in power at Cairo, levied
contributions on all paflengers. The place
is flill infefled with pirates, and, lad year,

(O Herodotus, lib. a. and Mela fay, that the .city
of Cercaforutn flood near the diviilon of the Nile, on
the eaflern (hore, where Charakhania Aow flands.

a large

ON EGYPT.

277

a large boat, in which were more than thirty
Turks, and myfelf^ was attacked ; our arms
and behaviour repelled the. enemy, who
wanted to plunder, not hght; we therefore
determined to call anchor oppohte the fmalf
village Zoufeti ; and, while the fervant pre-'
pared fupper, I walked with my JaniiTary into a
neighbouring wood; each with a pair of piftols
at the girdle, a large fabre by the fide, and a
doubled barrelled mufket on the fhoulder.

Several rows of trees, planted round a
vaft field, formed a iemicircular enclofure;
the fides of which reached to the river.
About the middle were banks, under fycamore
trees, and on the right and left were pomegra-
nate, palm, tamarind, and orange trees, pro*
mifcuoufly planted, which formed various
fmall groves. Among them grew tufts of
Hennai, a plealing fhrub, with leaves that dye
yellow ; the cool grafs, variety of trees, in-
termingling bufhes, orange, and. citron flow-
ers, flocks of doves, which fought an afylum
under the thick foliage^ .and abundance of cat^
tie, brought from grazing, altogether formed

a mofl: chearful and animated icene, which

*

Infpired thofe fweet fenfations of happinefs

T 3 that

LETTERS

27S

that proipcifls of bounteous and beautiful na-
ture never fail to produce,

. We went up to the hulbandmen’s huts,
and the women, who were round, immedi-
ately retired. The men remained> and, from
our drefs, fuppofing we were the officers of
Ibme Bey, who came to exadt cpntributions,
had their fears, which we difpelled by telling
them we only afked milk, and new laid eggs.
They hallened to fupply our wants, and re-
condudied us to the boat, where, notwith-
ftanding, their friendffiip, we kept fentinel all
night, each mounting guard in his turn ; no-
thing happened however to trouble our re-
pofe.

.February x6tfa.

After fleeping fome hours, wrapped in my
cloak, after the Arajsian manner, the noile
of the departing watermen awakenedj me.
The fun role, and, the dew having fallen
plentifully, there was a pure and clear iky.
Looking toward the wood, where we had
walked over night, I faw flocks of birds,
white as fnow, perched on the tops of the
^ees, which the Arabs name oxkeeper, be-
cauie they always accompany thde animals.

They

ON EGYPT.

279

They are the fiz& of a pheaiant, with red
feet, and black beaks ; their iilver plumage
formed an agreeable contrail with the dark
green of the date tree. Thoufands of doves
dew from one duller of trees to another, and,
by their cooing, celebrated the birth of day j
while docks of pigeons left their houies On
the river banks ; theie tame birds, never
hunted, never terrified by noiiy guB>pow«
der, are without fear, and do not avoid man.

Our anchor weighed, we coailed the left
fide of the river, aided by the current, and the
oar i for the wind continued contrary, and
paded near C^r f'uj Faraounia, fituated at
the beginning of a large canal, which,
obliquely traverfing the .Delta, falls into the
Rofetta branch. On the right of the Nile
we perceived various hamlets^ lod: in the
didant horizon, often paded numerous idands^
of which the river is full, and fbon fnw the
fmall fort, of Tant, furrounded by a fmall
canal.

' An hour after quitting it we came before
the village . Dagoua, the retreat of robbers,
where the elbowing Nile feems willing to

(u) Cr^lignifics village.

T4

detaia

zSo LETTERS

detam travellers. From this winding there
is a canal cut, as large as the Saone, which
runs into the canal of Faraounia before it
pailes Menouf, the capital of the iirft' pro*
vince of the Delta. It is navigable from
Augufl: to December, for large boats, and I.
have rowed entirely up it from Nadir, on the
Rofetta branch:; to that of Damietta. It runs
from northeaft to ibuthweft, nor can any thing
be morechearful or rich than its banks, which
feeih a terreilrial paradife. This large canal
fupplies others, which 1 lhall defcribe on the
map. One of them running to the lake of
Boiirlos, pades the. town of Tanta, where
there is a confiderable annual fair, to which
the inhabitants of the Upper and Lower
Egypt come, in crouds, to exchange their
native products for India ftuffs, Moka cof-
fee, and French cloths. It continues a week.
Deiire of gain brings fome of the Egyptians,
and love of pleafure many more. Ten thou-
land boats are upon the canal at this ieaibn,
all carrying abundance of provifions, where
are good cheer, muGc, and rejoicing. There
are nearly as many tents, pitched on fhore, to
which the mod famous courtezans of Egypt
fail not tp come. They likewile go on board

the

ON EGYPT. a8i

the boats> where they difplay their talents
for dancing, iinging, and gallantly. Many
glafs lamps are nightly lighted, the repeti-
tion of which refle<Sts innumerable flats in the
waters. The tents have the fame, ^xj and
this wonderful illumination, for the extent
of a league, .produces, on the grafs and the
cryflal flream,' charming efie£ls. Thefe fairs,
much frequented, are not uncommon. They
are the remains of the ancient pilgrimages
of the Egyptians to Canopus, Sais, and Bu*
baflus.

Joyfully quitting Dagoua, we pafied va-
rious ’hamlets, and difcovered, on the right,
the village of Atrib, where there is
nothing remarkable but the ’name, its huts
being built over the ruins of the ancient
Atribis. Ammianus Marcellinus affirms
this was one of the mofl confiderable cities
in Egypt; if fo, it is aflonifhing that hot
one of its monuments remain. ■ A large
canal runs a little below Atrib, toward the

eaflern part of lake Menzala ; another, be-

*

(xj Herodotus tells us that at th-: fcafts of Ills, in the
city of Bufirts, of Diana at Bubafius, and in other cities
pf Egypt, there were like illuminations. Euterpe, lib. 2. .

(y) P’Anvillc places this tpvru and aanal too low.

ginning

LETTERS

282

ginning near the angle of the Delta fzj,
fell into it there, and they, together,
formed the Pelufiac branch. Following its
courfe, we come to Phacuij, where the
canal began,- which communicated with the
Red Sea, and pa*fled the great city of Bubaf-
tU5, where Diana was worfliiped, and in
wbofe honour a magnificent temple w’as
there creaed. . This worlhip is deferibed
by Herodotus in a pidturefque manner. I
will cite the* pall'age, as it will ferve to
prove how little the manners of the Egyp-
tians have changed, fince that excellent hifto-
rian.

“ The people come in crouds from all
parts of Egypt to the feaft of Diana, at
«« Bubaftus ; multitudes of boats row to-
« wards the city, in each of which female
lingers are accompanied by cymbals, and
«* the tambour de bafquc : men play on the
*« flute, others fing, and beat time with .
« their hands. They flop oppofite all the

fzj Herodotiis, and Pomponius Mela, pofitively fay
the Nile was triple below the town of Cercaforum, the
feite of which I have indicated, becaufe it divided into
three branches. The moft caftern, that of Bubaftus,
or Pelufiuni, is not navigable s the two others ftill are.

“ towns

** towns they paft, and the muiic {Irikes up.
** Women abandoning themfblves to

** exceffive mirth, intice, by the moft un-
«* guarded expreilions, all they meet j fing
** licentious airs, and perform laicivioua
dances. Being come to Bubaftus, the
** people offer up innumerable facrlfices, du-
ring the feffival, and drink more wine
** in one day than in all the year behde.
** Above feven hundred thoufand people
“ ademble here.**

The Egyptians, £nce Herodotus, have
been governed by various nations, and, at
length, are funk deep in ignorance and fla-
very, but their true character has undergone
no change. The frantic ceremonies the Pa-
gan religion authorized are now renewed
around the fepulchres of Santons before
the churches of the Copts and in the
fairs 1 mentioned. Their love of pilgrimages

Thefe, no doubt, are the Almal, which were not
then more decent than now.

) On certain days the Mahometans vifit the fepul-
chres of perfons they hold to be faints, and keep their
feftivals with mirth, banquetting, and licentiouf—
nefs.

(c) Much the fame do the Copts celebrate the
feftival of Saint Gemiana, in the Lower Egypt.

ftill

LETTERS

284

iliH fubfiils ■; thdir mufic and dances are the
fame; and, though (hackled by mahometa-
nifin, their native humours preponderate,
and the prediledlions of their forefathers re-
tain their afcendencv: ib true is it that old
habits, ipringing from the climate, predomi-
nate over laws ; like a torrent down a decH-
vity, the courie of which a legiilature can-
not flop, but may turn fo as not only to pre-
vent its ravages, but, to render it ufeful. Let
us continue our voyage.

Below Atrib the villages are fo near each
other that the banks of the Nile ieem a con-
tinued town, interrupted only by gardens,
and aromatic groves. Contemplating the lu-
cid iky, the variegated trees, the numerous
herds, and the ever ipringing wealth of an
inexhauftible foil, we fay, let us not wonder
the Egyptians have produced the mod mar-
vellous works in the world; they poflefled
knowledge, the fined of climates, and a coun-
try which aiks nothing from man but to
foatter feed over its furface. Tyranny and
barbarifin have ipread defolation here; yet,
•what niight not a people, friends of the arts
and fciences, dill undertake ; what treafures
might they not gain from t:ommerce and agri-
culture;

ON EGYPT. 4«S

culture, or what advantages not render
ence and hiftory, by the interpretation of the
Egyptian hieroglyphics ! Excufe thefe refiec*^
tions, thele hopes of a traveller, who beholds
the mifery and the wealth of a country fp beau-
teous. Afterfour hours pailing iflands and ham-
lets, I landed at Mit rhamr, and walked over
this populous trading town, where there is
nothing remarkable, nothing that befpeaks an-
tiquity. The Bazari^rare narrow and %>b-
Icure, the ftreets crooked and dirty. There
is a mofque, with a fquare tower^ which I
fuppole to have been a church before- the
conqued of the Arabs, for there is not fuch a
minaret in all Egypt; they being round,
fmall and high.

Oppoiite Mit rhamr is Zephta; which, croi?-
fing the river, we vidted, and which, like
the firft, was not worth our trouble. The
walls of the houfes are fome mud, others
brick ; many of them are ruinous with no-
body to repair them. The inhabitants ap-
pear mherable, and it is viiible that not for
them is the fatnefs of the furrounding lands.

The fun role, and we, continuing our route,
law villages in the fame abundance; much more
fo on this branch than on that of Roietta ; which

we

286

LETTERS

attribute to the deftrudlion of {everal
cities, formerly, in the eaftern part of the
Delta. As they became deiblate, the repairing
of the canals was neglected, the lands uncul-
tivated, and the people coming nearer the
river, have there fixed their habitations. How
many barren fields would a good government
give back to agriculture! The wind contra-
ry, the rowers fatigued, and night approach-
ingi we cafl anchor between an iiland and
^lit Demlis, a place not too fafe, but we
determined to keep good watcli.

Feb. 17th.

While we quietly flept, two fwimmers,
under favour of darknefs, approached the boat,
toward midnight. Our fentinel, the janiflary,
perceiving them, by ftar light, gave the alarm,
- and fired his mufket. They difappeared, and,
the noife waking us, we ran to arms ; but he
calmed our fears by informing us of the truth.
So adroit are thefe thieves that, finding the
paflengers afleep, they fwim away with a part
of their efiedrs, and even with large packets :
if furprifed, they dive, and elude purfuit.
This alarm kept us awake all night, and to
charm away drowfinefs, Mahomet Affalama

recounted

O N E G Y P T. 287

recounted the battles of Ali Bey, which were
enlivened by large cups of Moca coffee^ occa-
fionally emptied by us, and drank here at all
hours. The Turks think it braces, and hold
it neceffary in a country where, relaxed by
heat, the ftomach fcarcely can perform its
funiflions j for this rea/bn they call it Ca^
bouai (d)i llgnifying ftrength. Be this as it
may, the Egyptians commonly drink three
cups a day, and often much more, without
any of the terrible effedts European phyfi-
cians have attributed to coifee.

Slow coming day at length appeared, and
the rifing fun was more pale than ufual, which
betokened a fouth wind, and which iboa
riling, we let fail. As we pafled, we per-
ceived a canal, beginning below Mit DemHs,
and taking its courle towards the lake Men-
zala. The wind frelhening, our bark, fvvift-
ly, cut the waves, and we prefently came to
the village of Boulir (cj, on the weftern bank.

of

{d) The Arabs call it Bonn, when In grain, and Cabou-
ei when ground. From. Cahouai the Furopeans have
formed the word coffee.

(e} Abulfeda enumerates four cities fo named in
Upper, and one in Lower Egypt, which is that I fpealc-
•f, called, to diftinguilk it, Boujir B<Bna»

Herodotus.

288 LETTERS

of the Nile, two leagues from Semennoud, per-^
fedtly according in iituation with that which
Herodotus and Strabo give to the ancient city
of Buiiris the capital of a Nomos ; prodigious
multitudes of ^ople were drawn hither by
the ftately temple, coniecrated to. Ids, the
Grecian Ceres, this being one of the mod: fre->
quented pilgrimages of Egypt. Not a vedige
of ancient iplendour can be feen at Boudr }
danding bedde the river, no doubt, the pre<^
.cious marbles of the temple have been carried
off s And it may be, alfo, that fome remains
might be found under the huts that have lince
been built there.

A league below Boudr, we faw the mouth
of a canal, which, joining an arm of that "of
Menouf, paiTed near Mehallai, and flowed
toward lake Bourlos A little farther I

perceived

Herodotus, lib. a. and Strabo, lib. 17. place Bufiris
above Sebennytus, now Semennoud, proceeding up the
river, which is the prefent polition of Boullr.

Strabo, fpeaking of this place, affirms the fables told
of the cruel Bufiris have no foundation whatever, that
Egypt never had a king fo called, and that malice had
invented them in return for the inhofpitality of the
Egyptians, who did not love flrangers. Lib. 17.

fyj So called by mariners, as is the cape which makes
its headland.

O N E G Y P T. 289

perceived a rmall wood, where, in a former
voyage, I had landed; and, as the iituation
was charming, 1 was determined to diqe
there ; accordingly we went on ihore. A
long row of willows of Babylon, ftrong and
tall, extends along the river bank ; the flexible
branches dip in the waters. Behind thefe are
pomegranates, which, planted in quincunx,
and forming a pleafant grove, is furrounded by .
a canal. From the Niie, at the far end, is a
field, various in its produd:ions, and termi-
nated by huts, among which was the orange
tree, in bloom. Seated beneath the willows
upon the river bank, before us was an ifland
dividing its ftream, the verdant grafs of which
attracted the eye : on the oppofite fliore,
were the villages Salania, Mit Abulhari, and
Gerah, feparated only by cluflers of date and
orange trees, and fome fields of pulle and
grain. On the right, Boufir might juft be
perceived ; and, on the left, the town of
Semennoud, with its lofty minarets. I never
beheld a more agreeable Iituation. The
verdure, flowers, foliage, villages, towns,
waters, earth, and heavens, all gave pleafure
to the fight. We dined in this delightful
Ipot, where I twice have ftopped, and twice
VoL. I. U have

LETTERS

igo

having felt that involuntary chartxi» that pure
and tranquil content, that expanfion of the
foul, which the beauties of nature fo power-
fully excite, by the grateful fuperabundance
(he (beds: happy he, who at fuch a moment
finds a fympathizing heart, to which he can
communicate, and by the communication
infpire, fimilar fenfations. Weft of this wood,
a league and a half, is Mehalla el Kebira,
capital of Garbia, the fecond province of the
Delta, and the refidence of a Bey. This
town is called Kebira the Great, becaule the
Delta contains any more confiderable.
It has a manufaiftory of cloth, and fal-ammo-*
niac, and a great trade ; the furrounding
rivers ferving to tranfport its merchandize
over all Egypt. The country round contains
numerous villages, herds, and the productions
of land ever fertile. Mehalla has replaced
the cities of Sebennytus and Bufiris, but not
their magnificence : it contains no remark-
able edifice.

While we tranquilly vrere feated on the
river bank, a violent Ibuth-eaftwindrofe, blew
a fiorm, and railed clouds of fine and fcorch-
ing dull:, which obicured the heavens, and
(pread a gloomy palenefs over the face of

naturf*.

ON £ G y P T.

29t

nature. This veil of darkne(s« through which
the fun appeared like blood, continued about
two hours. ■ When fuch like whirlwinds fur-
prize the traveller in the defert, he foon is
buried, if not (lieltered by a tent, and, if the
tempefl: continues long, even this aiylum
becomes his grave ; the tent and himfelf both
being entombed under a hill of find. The
wind fell, the fky cleared, and, gaining our
boat, we proceeded to Semen noud.

This was the ancient Sebennytus, the capital
of a Nomos^ it is a middle (ized, populous^
trading place, where hazards, well fupplied,
afford various commodities, tolerably cheap.
Except mofques, all the buildings are of
brick s nor could I difeover any antiquities.
Half a league north of Semennoud is the
canal of Thebania, carried to the lake
Bourlos, near the ruins of Butis the Great ;

which city had two temples, dedicated to
Apollo and Diana, and was famous alfb for the
oracle of Latona, which all Egypt came to
confult. The temple of this goddefs was vafl
and magnificent, and furrounded by a portico

fifty feet high, relting On marble columns^

>

HeroJotus Euterpe.

U 2

a rock

29 * LETTERS

a rock of granite, (b) its outward furface
fixty feet (quare, formed a iandluary, hollowed
in it by the mallet and chiHel j and a flone of
equal furface, and fix feet thick, covered it en-
tirely. No modern travellers have viiited Butis,
becaule it would be exceedingly dangerous ^
wherefore we cannot afhrm the defcription of
Herodotus to be exadl; : however, having feen
the column of Alexandria, and other monu-
ments, not lefs furprizing, we are led to believe
this hiAorian, who had been on the ipot, has
net impoied upon poAerity.

A league and k half from Semennoud, near
the canal of Thebania, is a large mount,
covered with ruins, called byPococke, and
father Sicard, Bba Beit, houle of beauty j the
Turks in my company named it Hajar Beit,
houie of Aone ; be this as it may, thefe are
the ruins of a grand temple, wholly of
marble j the walls, ten feet thick at the bot-
tom, were of red Ipotted granite, found in

This enormous rock, two hundred and forty
feet in circumference, was brought from a quarry in the
ifle of Phiise, near the cataradls, on rafrs, for the fpace
of two hundred leagues, to its defined place, and, with-
out contradi£lion, was the heavieft weight ever moved by
human power.

the

ON E G Y F T.

*93

the quarries of Syene, and which bears a
perfeA poliih. The columns, four feet in
diameter, had the head of Ifis for their capi*
tals. Among thefe remains are fragments of
the fine marble ftatues which embellifhed thia
flately edifice. The fiones are full of hiero*
glyphics, among which are men with pointed
bonnets, youthful women, birds, and various
animals, all admirably Icplptured, excellent
in their attitudes, and more pure in their taffe,
and perfe(51:, than any other of the Egyptian
iculpture. Thefe fine mins are abandoned
to the Turks, who daily come and carry off
blocks of marble, or faw columns in pieces to
make mill-Aones.

Pococke and father Sicard agree in faying
this temple was built by Buhris, in honour of
Ifis ; but its Icite does not correfpond with
that attributed by Herodotus and Strabo to
this city, which, as I have faid, flood two
leagues above Semennoud, where the village
of Bouiir now Hands. I rather think, with
D’Anville, the edifice in queflion was in the
city of Zfis itfelf, which Pliny and Stephen of
Byfantium placed towards the bottom of the
Delta. Were Egypt not fubje£fc to barba-
rians, might it be fearched, many doubts

U 3 would

LETTERS

*94

would be removed, which obfcure the ancient
hiRoiy of the country. After every podible
adiftance, there are points on which we only
can approach, but never dare flatter ourfelves
with having attained, the truth.

Returning from our walks toward evening,
Mahamet AiTalamai, to whom fitting and
fmoaking was a pleafure a thoufand times
fuperior to all the mofi wondrous ruins of
the world, invited me into a coffee-houfe
where he heard mufic i and I went the more
willingly becaufe, fpeaking Arabic, I might
pafs for a Turk. Being armed, well dreflTed,
and in military habits, we were taken for
officers of the Janiflaries, and the tradefpeople
of Semennoud rifing, ceded the place of
honour. They fquaited on matted leats, we
lat on a raifed fofa, where the mailer of the
hou& prefented us himlelf with moka, and
lighted our pipes. A dancing girl, who
amufed the company, immediately came to
us, and, according to cullom, aiTumed tlv^
moll voluptuous gellures and lalcivious atti-
tudes, keeping time to cymbals, and a tam-
bour de bafque, and receiving applaule in
proportion as her pollures were fignificant
and indecent i and (he was careful to oblige

her

ON EGYPT.

295

Iser company. The dance ended, fcating
herielfby us, fhe fang moals in praife of the
muiiulmen, and afterwards chearful airs.
This courtezan called herfelf Bedaoui; was
fourteen, and of an exquifite form, which was
not concealed by her light filk drels, negli-
gently tied with a long falh. Her perfumed
ebony locks delcended in treiles to her heels ;
a veil, gracefully railed, covered her fboul-
ders ; her eyes were black and fine ; her ikin
lefs brown than common ; her mouth and
fmile charming ; but, in my opinion, Ihe was
disfigured by two blue fpots Ihe had made in
her cheeks with gunpowder, and a ring hang-
ing from one of her noArils. She had come
from Cairo to feek her fortune, and, finding
us generous, offered to accompany us during
our voyage, which we civilly declined, and
returned to fleep in our boat.

February xS.

Taking good care to lay in provifions at Se-
mfennoud, whereareexcellentpigeons, poultry,
and hne flavoured frefh butter, we departed at
day>break, and hoilled fail. The wind almofi
eafl, we hoifled fail, and in two hours faw the

U 4 minarets

296 LETTERS

minarets of Manfoura, whither we (bon came,
and, being curious to examine a city fo
famous for the misfortunes of Louis IX. and
his fortitude, 1 landed. It is tolerably large,
but unfortified s the fireets narrow, and the
houfes of brick, as is ufiial in the Delta. One
part is half in ruins ; and here, no doubt, it
was that the brave Joinville, who had pene-
trated thus far, fo long defended himielf
agsunil: the Egyptians, and elcaped, covered
with wounds. Here the Duke of Britanny
loft an eye : but 1 lhall referve thele anec-
dotes for the fhort narrative I have promiled.

Manibura is a modern town, the origin of
which Abulfeda thus gives : (i) “ King
** Kamel, (k) fonofEl Adel, founded Man-
foura, where the Nile divides j one branch
** running to Damietta, the other to Ach-

{i ) Oua el Manfoura benaha c! tnelcc, el kamel cbn
** el adel, and mafterek el Nil ila doumiat, oua achmoun
benaha fi ouegg el adou lamma hafcrou doumiat.**

The above pafTage proves the learned Pococke was mif-
taken in fuppofing this city the Tanis, or Zoan, of
Scripture.

( k) The feventh of the Ayoubite kingsj he died at Da-
tnafcus, in the year 635 of the Hegyra.

«c

moun>

ON EGYPT.

®97

moun, (1) as a bulwark againfl the enemy*

who then befieged Damietta.” (m)

The Chriftians of Syria, fettled at Man-
Ibura, (n) are the chief traders, and the prin-
cipal articles are the fine rice growing round
the lake, and fal« ammoniac. Here are vaft
chicken-ovens ; and, as Egypt is the only
country where this mode of hatching is prao
tifed, 1 will delcribe it.

Imagine a building of two fiorles, one
under ground, and the other but little above,
equally divided, length-ways, by a narrow
gallery ; on the right and left are fmall cells,
where the eggs are put; the upper-ftory is
vaulted with an ox-eye aperture at the top,
and a fmaller one on the floor, by which heat
is communicated below ; both have a fmall
window carefully doled, and only one low
door for the whole building. The eggs are

(l) Achmoun was built by the Arabs, near the lake
?vlenzala, and fometimes called by them Achmoun Tani%
it having replaced the ancient city ofTanIs, the ruins of
which arc fecn in an ifle of the lake. Achmoun was
founded in the reign of Elmetouakkcl. Elmacin.

( m) ‘King Kamel built Manfeura, while the crufaders
laid ficge to Damietta, thirty-one years prior to the
expedition of Louis IX. Alacrizi.

(n) Manfoura, in Arabic, iignifiesthe victorious.

arranged

letters

29S

arranged in heaps in the lower ftory, and a
fire of fun-dried cow-dung kindled in the
upper, morning and night, gn hour each.
This is repeated for eight days, and the build-
ing, being fufficiently heated, the fire is
put out, every aperture clofed, and a part of
the eggs heaped up below are carried above.
The fuperintendant occafionally examines if
it be necefiary to increaie or diminifh the
heat. On the nineteenth day the chickens
begin to move in their ihells, nibble with
their beaks on the twentieth, endeavouring
to break their prifon, and are ufually com-
pletely hatched on the twenty-firft : then do
thefe heaps of eggs, apparently lifelefs, begin
to move, and roll about the floor, and thou-
fands of little various coloured chickens to
run and hop round the apartment. This
fight is truly diverting. They are carried in
panniers, and cried about the (Ireets on the
morrow, each houfe flocking itfelf at a
half-penny apiece. Various authors have
laid thefe fowls are not fb good as thofe
hatched by the hen, but they are miflaken.
A French cook 1 faw at Grand Cairo bought
them every year, and when well fed they
became excellent poultry. People here fay

the

ON EGYPT.

2gg

the villagers of Bermai only know the fe-
cret of this mode of incubation, but this I
cannot certify.

Having examined Manfoura, we went to
fee the canal, which, north of the town,
is wide, deep, and runs to the lake Men-
zala, below Achmoun ; the palling of it
was fatal to the French army, and its
blood- (lained waters walhed away the dead.
Our curiofity fatisfied, we fet fail towards
evening. The Nile near Manibura takes
another, and a north-ead, diredion. The
country on each (ide is equally fertile, but
the villages lefs frequent. We pafled Dial!:,
about dufk, which place is nearly a day's
journey from Saint Gemiana, where the Copts
go on pilgrimage, and at which time the
neighbouring plain is covered with tents.
Chrifliaris and Mahometans promifcuoully
feail fur a week, have horfe races, wine and
good cheer ; and, dancing girls coming in
crouds, Bacchus and Venus are not banilhed
the feftival.

Night came on ; but darknefs, neither thick
nor impenetrable, here, is rather a tranipa*
rent veil, half concealing objects, through

which

LETTERS

300

which the azure ferene iky is feen, and all
the Alining hoft of heaven. The ftars feem
brighter, and larger, than in cooler climates,
and night, in Egypt, has a thoufand charms
which are rarely felt in Europe. Never is
her mild face obfeured by utter darknels,
never her tranquillity didurbed by tempedu-
ous winds, nor do delcending torrents ever
produce a temporary chaos. When the fun
fets, the wind ufually falls ; nature be-
comes perfe(ftly calm, and contemplative
man may then, untroubled, undifturbed,
ftudy himfclf and his faculties. Aftronomy,
whofe refidence is in the heavens, viewing
the fplendid firmament, may follow the
courie of the flars through the immenfity
of fuace,

A

While failing wdth the dream, wander-
ing lights informed us of the approach of
boats, going upwards. There was one,
that, pading, ran foul of us, by which
we were near being dink. We immediately
made for fhore to examine if there was no
leak, where we refolved to pafs the night.
This accident happened near the fmall vil-
lage of Saoualim, and this was the fecond

time

ON EGYPT.

30X

time that place had almoft proved fatal to
me, as I will (hew, for the inftrudtion of
thofe whom curiofity may bring to Egypt.

The year before, I failed from Cairo, with
a French officer, who was going to embark,
at Damietta, for India, by the way of Baf-
ibra : we had only one fervant, and three
mariners ; and this officer, during the voy-
age, opened and counted a box of iequins.
This, as I told him, was putting our lives
in danger, but he difregarded me. The failors,
feeing the gold, confpired to have us mur-
dered, which they could not execute the two
firfl nights, we being on our guard. A
contrary wind forcing us to lie-to, on the
third, one of them went to a neighbouring
hamlet, and, an hour after, returning, laid
down to reft with the others. The fatigue of
heat, and long watching, overcame us, and
I had flept fcundly about an hour when I
felt as if fuddeiily ftiakcd, and was perfe(ftly
awake, without knowing how. The moon
flione bright, and the firft object I beheld
was a man, with one foot in the boat, and
an uplifted poniard. 1 ran to my double
barrelled mufket, and, clapping it to his
breaft, cried, in Arabic, he was dead if he

did

LETTERS

30i

did not retire. The fellow flood moticRi«
lefs, with furprize; and I, inftantly, per-
ceived, a few paces further, three others,
armed with fabres, and piflols ; 1 watched
their motions, and determined to fire on the
firfl who offered the lead threat; but durfl
not turn my head to wake my companion,
left they fhould attack me. Him whom 1
held in play having drawn back, 1 awakened
the officer, who armed himfelf, and while
the thieves held council, two paces from
us, I let flip the boat, and we pafted to
the other fide of the river. During this
whole fcene, the boatmen and fervant feign-
ed to be in a dead fleep, nor could my
calling awaken them ; blows were neceffary
for that. When I came to Damietta, 1 per-
ceived the rafcals had ftolen feveral of my
effects, but the fear of the baftinado com-
pelled reftoration. Eicaped this danger, I
returned thanks to Providence, who per-
mitted me to awake fo fcafbnably ; two
minutes more would have been too late.

jgth.

The remembrance of the paft made us
watch all night; but the precaution was
needlefs : we remained undifturbed. Our

boat.

ON EGYPT.

3*^3

boat, having been only lllghtly damaged,
above vtrater, we departed, betimes, pafTed
Farefcour, and, two hours after, difcovered
the charming town of Damietta, forming a
vaft crefcent on the eaftern ihore of the Nile.
Numerous boats and fmall vefTels were at
anchor there, and we proceeded to cuf-
tom-houfe.

J have the honour to be, See.

LET

3°4

LETTERS

LETTER XXIir.

WJlory of Damie^ta, ancient and modern 5
^^sken founded: their fcite : travellers re^
fated *Lcho have all confounded or mifplaced
them in their maps and narratives^ Mo-
dern Damictta-y its extent ^ trade, baths,
inhabitants, and charming environs, hoveers,
and orange groves 5 voith a?t account of the
lotus, papyrus, and the fne rice, fent from
Damietta to Syria, the Archipelago, and
.Marf'Il/cs,

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo*

Most writers have confounded the an-
cient with the modern Damietta j ib obicure,
Hir, is its hillory ; and the repetition of
iheir errors has thrown great darknefs and
uncertainty over this important point of
rgyptian geography, to difpel which it is
iieceiTary to begin with the famous Damietta,
20 often attacked by European princes. A
knowicdge of places, dates, and fadts, pre«
fented under their true light» will give you

clear

ON EGYPT.

305

clear and di(lin(ft ideas. Damietta,” fays
Abulfeda, f oj “ was a walled town, at the
“ eafteni mouth of the Nile.” (p ) This
perfectly accords with hiftory : let us there-
fore fearch for the origin of the place. Ste-
phen of Byfxntium informs us it wai, called
Thamiatis, under the government of the
Lower Empire, but was, then, inconii-
derable. It daily increafed in proportion as
Pelufium, frequently lacked, declined ; and
the entire ruin of that ancient city removed
commerce to the eaft of the Delta. The Em-
perors of Conilantiuople, a fecond time, feized
on Damietta, then unfortified, about the year
238 of the Hegyra. But the importance of a
maritime town, fo favourably fituated, was
at length feen j and fix years after, the Caliph
Flrnetoufikkel (q) Usfrvunded it with flrong

walls ;

(i) Oaa dou';iJat caJet mcJiiia niciaoun ala el bahr
and ihefnab tl Nil el fljarki. Delcription of Egypt.

(p) Called the eaftern nic’.ith, by the Arabian geogra-
pher, becaufc, Pclutiini having 'eean often facked, and
at laft deilroyeJ, bv the Criir-tders, the canals that ran to
it bccatr.e nnfr'nu.nJ-.-di and the branch of Damietta
the metf taftern.

(q) CJrtMt vrnrks
his reign, fuch as
Vox.. I.

were p'. rihr£n:;i.i In Egypt during
thuihing the walls of Aic::r.r.diia,
X Dainietta,

3o6 letters

walls ; which, however, did not impede the
valiant Roger, king of Sicily, from taking
it, in the year 550 of the Hegyra. Salah
Eddin, who began to reign over Egypt about
this time, did not let him long enjoy his
conquefl, but drove the Europeans from
Damietta, who, fifteen years after, returned
again to befiege it. Their efforts were inef-
fedtual, for, though their land army was
fuflained by a fleet of twelve hundred vcf-
fels the Sultan forced them to retire

with fhame.

This place was fated to be continually
befieged. Again the crufaders attacked it,
with pow'crful forces, under the reign of El
Addel, in the year 6 1 5 of the Hegyra. They
landed on the weflcrn fhore of the Nile, and
iecured their camp by a fcfle, and a pallifade.
The mouth of the river was defended by two

Damietta, founding Achmoun, Rofetta, Catayah, &c.
all executed by order of £bn Toulon, one of the molt
famous governors of this country, and who, ambitious'
and4birfting to become independent, wiihed to poilcfs
fortified places, in which he might brave the power of
the Caliphs. Thefe having obtained, he reared the
ftandard of rebellion, declared himfdf king of Egypt,
and defended it againft the whole force of Afia.

(rj Macrizi Hiftory of the Dynafties of Egypt.

tow'crs.

ON EGYPT.

307

towers, well garrifoned ; and a chain of iron^
llretched acrofs, prevented the entrance of
veilels. The crufaders took the tower, next
their camp, broke the chain, and gave a paHage
to their fleet. Nejern Eddin the fbn of
the Sultan, encamped near Damietta, covered
it with an army, and, to flop the enemy’s
veflTels, threw a bridge over the Nile, which
they deftroyed ; he, then, funk feveral large
barks, and rendered the paflage almoft im-
pradticable. After many turns of fortune,
bloody battles, and a flege of feventeen
months, the chriflian princes took Damietta,
by aflTault, but did not long enjoy the fruit of
all the blood they had ipilt, and an armament
which had cod fams fb immenie. Surrounded,
near the canal (t ) of Achmoun, by the waters
of the Nile, and the Egyptian army, they
bought their lives and liberty by refloring
their conqueft.

Thirty -one years after their defeat, Louis

(s) This vaiiant prince, then very young, made his
fir A' campaigns againft the Europeans, gained feverai
victorie-i, afterward, over the rebels Syria, and died,,
at Manfoura, fome time after Louis IX. took Damietta.

(t) A quarter of a league north of Manfoura, where
■jnded the exploits of Louis IX.

X z

IX. toqk

LETTERS

308

IX. took Damietta, without ftriking a blow.
The daring valour of a king who threw him-
fclf armed into the w’ater to march againft an

O

enemy entrenched on ihore, and the impetuo-
fity with which he attacked them, fpread terror
through their army, which, flying, cowardly
abandoned a fortrels amply florcd and capable
of long refirtance. The Arabs, foon after, re-
covered it, as I (hallfhow in the hirtory of the
defeent of Louis IX. but, weary of defending
a place, which brought upon them the moft
warlike nations of Europe, they wholly erafed
and rc-built it, higher up the country, :is
Abulfeda and all the oriental writers attef-
I will cite their mod: important palfagts.

“ Damietta being deftroyed, they built a
“ town at fbsne diftance, and called it Men-
** fli'a, which is become a confiderable place,
** where now, (a hundred years after it was
** founded) are fquares, hazards, and public
“ baths. The ancient city was deftroyed

in the year 648 of the Hcgyra ; the

** woes it had brought on Muftulnien, and
** the wars it had excited, reduced them to
** this neceftlty ; this fortrefs, feeming to in-
** vite the arms of the Franks who came to

f'f/J Other Arabian writer? nhiix it four year,-, bark.

ON EGYPT.

30?

beliege it in turns. lilmetouakkel, an Abaf^
fide Caliph, had walled it round.”

Macrizi, confirming the opinion of Abul-
feda, removes all doubt. I will tranlcribe the
pali'age, as tranflated by the learned Car-
donne, for a fadl disfigured by the errors of
lb many travellers requires full demon ftration.

“ Two years after the departure of Louis
** IX. under the reign of Moaz Eddin Aybeh,
** the Turcoman, firft Sultan of the dynafty of
** the Baharite Mamluks, a report being
“ Ipread that the French threatened Egypt,
“ a fecond time, it was refolved to deftroy
Damietta, and the place was razed, fo that
not a vchige remained, except the grand
“ mofquc. (X J Nor was this thought fufii-

** cient j

A £»Taiul niofquc is ftill feen at the village of
I’.fba, eaft or' the Nile, a Ihort league from the fca, whi-
ther 1 have been ten times, carefully examined the envi-
rons, and fuw the foundations of the walls of ancient
Damietta. 'I'herc was alfo an arch of brick, of old con-
itr-jdtion, which might be one end of a brivlge, ananti<\ue
tower, half demuliihed, where were two cannons with-
out cuiriages, and ruhis, which make its fltuation in-
duhitabie. 'I'he uillance of Efl»a from the fea is what the
Delta has lengthened in the fpace of 6co years : this has
obliged the Alainluks to ruiic two fmall forts beyond the
village, to defend the paflage of the river. Tliat on the
left-fhorc is already half a league inland ; the other, more
modenj, will loon, be the fame ; for the Ihorc on which

y o

L E T TER

350

cient ; for, eleven years after, under the
reign of Bibar £)bondouk Dari, they fo
" /lopped up the mouth of the Nile (yj that
** the enemy's fleets could not enter ; iince
' ‘ when the pa/lage is fo ob/lructed that /hips
** are obliged to anchor in the road. The
pre/ent Damietta was built after the for-
“ mer was deftroyed, and /lands on the fame

fide, higher up the river.” It is in reality

a league and a half above the village of Efna,
where traces of the firft Damietta are feen.
The modern, Abulfsda tells us, was called
Men/hia, and it /till contains a /quare, fo
named, in memory of its origin. Moft writers
have confounded the two cities, attributing
to the one w'hat appertained to the other.
The note f zj will /hew what great authorities
have obfeured this part of hlAory and geo-
graphy.

it is built runs three leagues into the fea, and, being
now almoft as high as the water, in Icfs than a century
will form a cape

Cy) ^7 thefe means a fearful bar has rifen, named
Bogaz, not lefs dangerous than that of Rofetta, and im>
pafiable by boats during feveral months of the year.
Shipwrecks are frequent here ; I have four times pafibd
it, but not without peril.

(z) Father Sicard fays, The lake Menzala began
s* half a league from Damietta, formerly Thamiatis.**
Let, Ed, p, -The Damietta be means is not the

sneient Tbamiatis

ON EGYPT.

3 “

graphy.

modern

I paiTed fourteen months at the
Damietta, which I will delcribe.

Larger and not lefs agreeable than Rofetta,

Pococke, having fpoken of modern Damietta, adds,
“ At the north end of Damietta, there is a v( «-y fine large
round tower, built of hewnftone, which inighcbethc
** work of the IMamluks, after they recovered Damietta
** from the Chriftians.” — The learned Englifliman con-
founds the city the Egyptians deftroyed with the prefent,
Profper Alpinus falls into a much greater error in
Aippofing Damietta the ancient Pelulium. Damietta
is two and twenty leagues from the ruins of Pelufium.
Maillct has committed the fame fault. “ The city of
Damietta correfponds to the ancient Pelufium, which
“ projecled into the feahalf a league.”

D(/. d'E^yptiy p. 127.
Dcclor Shaw copying Maillct has adopted his error.
Niebuhr, who has given an excellent plan of Dami-
etta, alfo, confounds it with the ancient, as the following
paflagc fhew's. I find not the leafl trace of the walls
of Damietta, but the place v/here it is pretended the
“ Nile was barred, by a chain, feems vifible. For, on
the northern part, within tho city, is an old high
‘‘ tower; the river, there, is little more than a han-
** dred feet wide [he is greatly d;.ceived] and, on the
** oppofite iliorc, is a like tower, the upper part of
“ which is now dcmolifhtd.** Travels in Arabia^ Vel.E
Thefc towers, which made him take the modern for
the ancient Damietta, were built by the Mam uks, to
defend the new city. Finding them ufclcfs, they have
demoliihed one, and employed the materials in conftru^-
ing a fmall fort, at the mouth of the river.

X4.

it

LETTERS

3«

it forms a femicircle, on the eaftern ilioie
of the Nile, two leagues and a half from
Us mouth. Standing at one end of this
crefcent, the eye furveys it in its whole
extent. It contains about eighty thoufand
inhabitants, has fcveral fquares, one of which
is called Menfliia : Bazards, filled with mer-
chandize, okals, or khans, as fpacious as
thofe of Boulac, under the porticos of which
are Indian fluffs, fiiks from Mount Lebanon,
fal ammoniac, and quantities of rice, befpeak
it a commercial place. The houfes, efpecially
near the river, are very high ; mofl of them
have pleafant falcons, built on the terrace?,
in which charming places, open to every
wind, the T urk, indolently feated on his fofa,
pafles his life, in fmoaking, viewing the fea,
bounded by the horizon, the grand lake lying
on the other fide, and the Nile, which, run-
ning between the two, traverfes a rich coun-
try. Various grand mofques, with high
minarets, ornament the city. The public baths
faced with marble, are fimilar to thofe of
Grand Cairo ; the linen is clean, and the
water very pure. The heat, and procefs, far
from injuring, conduces to, and even re-
^flablifhes, health, when ufedwitli moderation;

this

this opinion, founded on experience, is general
in Egyp^ j 2 n:i the obiervations of feveral
years, and t!ie altoniihing efFetts produced by
the pra<5tice, have obliged me to think them
very falutary.

Multitudes of boats and fmall veflTels incef-
iantly fill the port of Damietta. Some, named
Iherm, ferve to load and unload the (hips,
that anchor in the road ; others are coafiing
pilot boats. There is a great trade between
this city and Syria, Cyprus, and Marfeilles.
The rice mexdaoui, the finefi of Egypt, is
cultivated in the neighbouring plains, and
its annual exportation amounts to between
two and three hundred thoufand pounds.
There are likewife cloths, fai ammoniac,
wheat, 6cc. I,a\vs, ruinous to the country,
prohibit the exportation of the latter; but
they are evaded, and it is paflTed as rice. The
chriftians of Aleppo and Damafeus, for many
ages efiabliined here, carry on the principal
trade ; they are fuflered to grow rich by
Turkifb indolence, winch contents itfelf with
occafional extortions. Exportation of rice is
forbidden; but, by arrangements advantageous
to the receiver of the cuiloms, the people of
Provenpe annually load feveral (hips. The

314 LETTERS

hogaz prevents them from entering the Nile,
and their cargoes are brought by boats, which
practice is productive of innumerable vexations
and abufes. The rice of the bell quality, which
departs in the evening for the fliip, feldom
arrives there, but an inferior Ibrt is fub/lituted
during the night. The captains of Mar-
feilles, aware of theie tricks, but unable to
prevent them, endeavour to repel fraud by
fraud, and traffic becomes a kind of mutual
robbery. The thing mod: diiadvantageous to
the trade of Damietta is its defective har-
bour 5 the road where veffels lie being totally
expofed, every gale that rifes the captains are
obliged to flip their cables, and take refuge
at Cyprus, or keep the open fea. By cutting
a canal of hdf a league only it would be eafy
to give fliips free entrance into the Nile, which
is deep ; and this fmall expence would render
Damietta a fine harbour : but defpotifm,
infenfible to the good of nations, always
marches towards deilrudion, and has neither
will nor power to create. How ftrange the
fatality, by which the fineft country on earth
is become the deflined prey of a few robbers,
who {port with public utility and the lives of
men !

The

ON EGYPT.

3*5

The flip of land where Damietta is built,
ihut in on one hde by the river, and on the
other by the lake Menzala, is only from two
to fix miles wide eaft and wefi. Rivulets
interfeQ: it in every diredtion, and render it the
mofi: fruitful part of Egypt. The lice in
common yields eighty bufhels for one, and-
other products arc In the fame proportion.
Here nature, eminently and profuiely dif-
playing her riches and her pomp, prefents
the year round flowers, fruits, and harvefls !
She withers not in winter j fhe fades not in
fummer ! She is neither fcorched nor frozen !
The thermometer only varies from the ninth
degree above freezing to the twenty-fourth ;
(aj which happy temperature Damietta owes
to the vaft quantities of water by which it is
furrounded. The thermometer riles twelve
degrees higher at Grand Cairo, Verdure is
no where fo frelh as here • trees no where
lb loaded with fruit. The bafiks among
the rice fields beat feveral fpecies of reeds,
fome of which grow very high among them

'aJ According to an tncire year’s obfervatiens, but
only continued during rhe day, the cold is not much
greater at night ; for froft and fnow are here unknown.
•—■Ute author alwayi meeus Reaumur*s thermomettr, 7*.

is

3i6 L E T T E R S

is the calamus in abundance, with which the
orientals write. Its fmall ftalk bears long
narrow leaves, gracefully pendent, and pliant
branches, bedecked with white flowers. There
have I feen the n;inynis in quantities, the
^aper of the ancient Fgj'-ptians. This trian-
gular rulh, eight or nine feet high, and an
inch thick, bears a lanigerous tuft. Strabo
calls it biblus, and deferibes it lb us not
to be miflaken. The lotus ahb, wliich the
Arabs call by the primitive name of nuphar,
here railes its proud llalk above the waters,
expands its large calix of light azure, or the
pareft white, and appears the king of aquatic
plants. The inland pends and canals abound

Xhepap;. rus grows naturally in Lower Egypt;
1 hav<. feen it un the banks of iakc Marcotis ; it is a
rufli, with a naked fta’.k ten feet higi', bearing a \voo!ly
tuff. The publicans (receivers of the culfoms) who
farm this branch of trade, only luffer it to grow in few
places, that they may raii'e the price, aiid thus injure the
public good. Strabo, !ib. 17.

The prefent fcarcity of the papyrus in Egypt is owing
to this avidity of the publicans, and the care with which
they deftroyed it. I have only feen it round Damictta
and the lake Mcnzala ; and moft travellers, who have
not been there, have not mentioned it ; foine, lefs cir-
cumfped, have denied its cxillcnce, and propagated fables
on the ful^c^t.

with

ON EGYPT.

3«7

with this ftately flower, which yields a mofl:
agreeable odour.

There are many villages round Damietta ;
moil of them have man u factories, where the
fineft Egyptian cloth is made, particularly
napkins, much in requeft, at the ends of which
are filk-fringe : they are brought to tabic,
clpecially on vilits of ceretnony ; the flave
prefents one to wipe the mouth after drink-
ing iherbet, (c) or eating confcdticnary, I'erved
on a fllver plate. Round tbefe villages ufu-
ally are fmail woods, where the trccii, planted
promifcuouily, have an uncommon and pic-
turefquc efleCt. Beflde the lycamore and
gloomy tamarind the eleg-in: caiiia grows,
with cluReriiig yellow ilo-.vers, rLiembling
theie of the cytiius ; the top of date,
loaded witii elufters, lord?; ;i above the bower
and near its lhade the citron and orange rile.

Sherbet corf;:.; ficrritae Arr.bic v/ord which

Agnihes bcvcrai’C, it i' campofed cf I.:mon-juice, fugar,
and water, in \v-h.«::i perfumed prific ;s diflolvcd, made
from the excellent fruits of Damafeus ; they ufually min*
gle a little roie*wat('r. It is a moft agreeable beverage,
the neitar of the orientai?, and drank only by the great,
or people inofEcc. I was fevcral times prefented with :t
on my viflts to the governor of Dacclctta, and drank ;t
with plcafure.

LETTERS

318

or over the peaiant*s cottage extend their gol-
den fruit. The long leaved banana^ the fcarlet
flowered pomegranate, and the fweet fruited
flg, fcatter charming variety 5 “often ftraying
among their meandering paths, (haded on one
flde by trees, and on the other by cluflering
reeds, impervious to fight, I have unexpectedly
found myfelf on the banks of the great lake
Menzala. Here a diflerent profpe<3: rofe:
thoufands of boats were employed in fllhing,
or ipreading nets, for the innumerable birds
which hither come in fearch of abundant food,
and a temperate climate.— I wifh. Sir, to paint
nature fuch as 1 have a thoufand times feen
her round Damietta •, but I feel myfelf
unequal to the talk. Imagine all the delights
that runninii brooks and frefli verdure, all the
odour that orange flowers, all that a mild
liiavity, a balfamic air, and a moft enchant-
ing horizon can. impart, and you will then
have but a feeble idea of the fmall flip of
earth, included between this expanfive lake
and the ever flowing Nile.

A mile (buth-wefl; of the town is an orange
grove, to which the inhabitants refort, where
the walks are made ilraight; and this is the
only place where art has any way aided

nature ;

ON EGYPT.

nature ; no where elie are the trees planted in
rows : here I almoH; daily went, efpecially
during February, March, and April, when
the orange is in flower. No words can
exprefs the pleafure of breathing the cool and
perfumed air of thefe delightful (hades. The
unmutilated trees are above thirty feet high,
and their intermingled branches, and thick
foliage, all in bloom from top to bottom,
wholly exclude the fun's rays. Each orange
tree is a vaft nofcgay, the flowers of which
almoft conceal the leaves, forming together
the mofl: beauteous canopy ever beheld I
There is a fmall rivulet befidc each row, and
twice a day a relcrvoir is opened, by which
the trees are watered. It is intoxication of
pleafure to walk here at noon } and never did
1 fo forcibly feel all the delicious enjoyments
that odours and aromatics can infpire. Here,
in thefe hot climates, was 1. convinced that
fuchfweets, far from injuring, are even necef-
fury to health.

At one end of this walk is a canal, full of
the papyrus. Entering, on the left (lands the
gardener’s hut, and a grove of citron and palm-
trees, planted fo near each other as fcarccly

320 LETTERS

to grant admiflion. This place, encloicd by
ditches and palliiades, is the alylutn of myC^
tery, where the handfomeft of the Turkiih
women occafionally come to breathe, fay
they, balfamic fvveetnefs beneath thefe fhades.

I (hall conclude this letter. Sir, by a fliort
tale, which will prove that incidents fimilar
to thofc erf the times of Jacob are ftill renewed
in Egypt. The plains of Syria iaft year were
ravaged by clouds of locuils, which devoured
the corn to the very root. A famine followed,
and a farmer near Damafeus felt the effeflis
of the general diflrefs. To fupply the wants
of a numerous family, he fold his cattle ^
which refburce being foon cxhaulled, the
unhappy father, wretched at prefent, but fore-
feeing greater wretchednefs to come, prefled
by hunger, fold his inftruments of hulban-
dry at Damalcus. Led by the inviflble hand
of Providence, as formerly Tobias was by the
angel, while- 'he bargained for corn, lately
arrived from Damietta, he heard fpeak of the
fuccefs of Mourad Bey, ( d) who had entered

Grand

(d) Mourad Bey and Ibrahim Bey have, for (even
years, been the moft powerul iangiaks of Bgypt ; both
being ambitious, they quarrelled, made war, and were

reconciled.

Or N E Y P T*

321

GraD4 Cairo viftorious, and. in tnumph.
The fhape, chara£ter« and origin, of the war««
rior were defcribed, and bow he had riieii
from flavery to power fupreme. The afto*
niihed farmer found the delcription accorded
with a fbn, who had been Aolen from him
at twelve years old : hope palpitated ii|
his heart ; he haftened home with his, pro-
viiions, told his family what he had heard,
and determined, immediately, to depart
for Egypt. His weeping wife and Tons
odfered up prayers for his . fafe return.
Going to the port of Alexandretta, he em-
barked there, and came to Damietta. 'One
continued fear tormented him ; his fon,
forfaking the religion of his fathers, had
embraced Mahometanifm ; and now, fur-
rounded as he was by iplendor, would he
acknowledge his parents ? The thought
lay heavy on his heart; yet, the wiih to
fnatch his family from all tno^^rors of
famine, the hope of finding a long lamented

reconciled, becaufe they found thetnfelves equally ftrong.
Mourad Bey at length prevailed ; and, forcing his col-
league to &y into Upper Egypt, now reigns in Cairo. In
the courfe of thefc letters 1 ihall trace their chara^ers and
principal aAions, which I myfelf .have fecn.

Voj.. I. y ifon.

LETTERS

^22

fan, gave him fortitude.. He continued his
gurney, came to the capitsd* repaired to, the
palace of Mourad, applied to the officers of
the prince, and, mpft ardently, folicited ad*
miffion. His drels and appearance belpoke
poverty and misfortune, and were poor re-
commendations ; but his great age, ib re*
fpedtable in the eafl:, pleaded in his behalf.
One of the attendants went to the Bey, and
told him an aged man, apparently miferable,
requefted an audience. Let hini enter, re-
plied Mourad ; and the farmer proceeded,
with trembling fteps, over the rich carpet
which beipread the hall of the Divan, and
approached the Bey, who reclined on a
iofa, embroidered with ffik and gold. Croud-
ing ienfations deprived him of the ufe of
. Ipeech : at lail, after attentively looking, the
vbice of nature vanquishing fear, he fell, and
embracing his Jcnees, exclaimed, Tou are my
Jon ! 'fhe •Bey railed him, endeavoured to re-
coiled:, and, after explanation, finding him
to be his- father, made him ht down by bis
fide, and carefled him moft affiedionately.
■The firft gufti of nature over, the Sire de-
icribed in what deplorable flate he had left
his mother, and brethren, and the prince

propofcd

ON EGYPT.

323

propofed to fend for, and*with them di-
vide his riches and power, if they would
embrace Iflamiim. . This the generous chrif-
tian had forefeen, and, fearing youth might
be dazzled, took not one of his (bns w:ith
him. He, therefore, firmly rejedled Mou-
rad*s ofifer, and even remonfiratcd with him
on his own change of religion. The Bey.,
finding his father determined, and that his
family’s difirefs demanded immediate fuc-
cour, fent him back to Syria, with a large
fum of money, and a veilel loaded with
corn. The happy hufbandman immedi-
ately returned to the plains of Damafcus,
where his arrival banilhed mifery, and tears,
from his homely roof, and brought joy,
cafe, and felicity*.

This, you perceive. Sir, greatly refem-
bles the hifiory of Joieph ; and would more,
perhaps, did we know all the incidents.

I have the honour to be^ &c.

Y 2

LET^

3*4

letters

LETTER XXIV.

0 /z ancient Pelufium, unknown to modern
travellers ; its Jituatton, and decline j with
remarks on Farama^ not far from it^ where
the Arabs place a tomb, which, probably,
is that of Pompey the Great. The lake Tanis,
now Menxata, its ijks and ancient towns,
with obfervations on its fijhery, outlets into
the Mediterranean, and innumerable birds.

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

Pelusiua^ as I have faid, flood at the
^aftern extremity of the lake Menzala ; its
name* fignifying mud (e), defcribes its
marfhy htuation, which, according to Stra-
bo, (J) ,was but two miles from the fea. Its
origin, like that of mod anpient cities of
Egypt, is toorremote to be known ; it Hou-
riihcd long before Herodotus, and, being a
barrier city towards Aha, the Pharoabs made
it a conhderable fortrefs : one of them raifed
a rampart, extending thirty leagues, from its

(e) n«Xv«tMr, mc^nsmud: the i^rabs , have continued the
same, and called it Thimbu mud.

(f) Strabo, lib. 17.

walls

O . isr EGYPT. sis

walls to Heliopolis. Hiftory thews us that
the long wall of China« thofe which the Greek
emperors built round Conftantinople^ and
many others, were moft expen£ive» but impo-
tent obftrudtions to a warlike people ; and
that, to fecure a tlate, warriors are better
than walls : men are only to be repelled by
men. The bulwark of Peludum flopped not
Cambytes, who attacked it with a formidable
army ; and the feeble ion of Amahs, not fore-
teeing the detertion of two hundred thoufand
Egyptians, who went and founded a colony be-
yond the cataracts, had no force fufficient toop-
pofe the torrent which ravaged his kingdom.
Cambyfes, after a bloody battle, in which h^
enemies were llaughtefed, entered Peluiium
triumphant ; and, from this memorable day,
which faw the deter tion of one part of the mili-
tary of Egypt, and the ruin of the other, we may
date the tervitude of that rich land, which
has fince palled under the yokp of the
Perfians, Macedonians, Romans, Greeks,
Arabs, and Tufks. A Rate of tlavery of
more than two thoutand years teems to have
made her chains eternal.

Herodotus, who was at Peluiium tome years
sdter its cpnquetl by Cambytes, has a pa^ge

Y 3 which

226 LETTERS

which I mudnot omit. “I examined the plain*
where the two armies had fpught, and faw
** it covered with heaps of human bones : on
** the one fide were thofe of the Perfians* on
“ the other thoie of the Egyptians, the natives
*< having carefully feparated them, after the
battle. Were it not for the explanation I
received, there was one faft which would
have appeared very ailonhhing. The thin
** and fragile ikulls of the Perfians broke,
** when gently ftruck with a ilone j while
** thofe of the Egyptians, thick and compact,
** refilled the Arokes of the flint. This dif-
“ fcrence of folidity they attributed to the
0 cuflom the Perflans have, from their
V infancy of wearing tiaras (caps) and the
“ contrary one, of* the Egyptians, of fhaving
their children’s heads, and leaving them
** bare, expoled to the heal of the fun ; which
** explanation*appeared fatisfadlory (g)**

The fame cuflom flill fubfifls ; I have
every where feen the children of the com-
mon people, whether running in the fields,
alfembled round the villages, or fwimming
in the waters, with their heads fliayed, and
bare. Let us but imagine the hardnefs a

(g) Herodotus, Thalia.

ikull

ON EGYPT.

3*7

Ikull muft acquire, thus expoied to the
icorching iun, and we fhail not be aftonifhed
at the remark of Herodotus. Peluiium pa£ed
from the Periian dominion to that of Alex-
^der i and the brave Antony, general of Ac
horie under Gabinius, took it from his fuc-
ceflbrs. Rome reflored it to Ptolemy
Auletes. Pompey the great, whole power
bad re-eftabli(hed this young prince on the
throne of Egypt, fought refuge, after the
fatal battle of Pharfalia, in Pelufium. He
landed at the entrance of the harbour, and,*
quitting Cornelia, his wife, and fbns, re-
cited, from Sophocles, this palTage — ** The
** free man, who leeks an alylum in the cqprt
of a king, there, meets llavery, and chains.**
He there met death ! Scarcely had he ftepped
on Ibore before the rhetorician Theodbrus,
a native of Chlo, the courtier Septimius, and
the eunuch Achillas, who commanded the
troops, deiirou s of a vidim for the conqueror,
pierced him with their Iwords. Seeing the
aflaffins come, Pompey hid his -face in bis
mantle, and died like a Roman. His head
was embalmed, as an oaring for C&far, and
his body call; naked on the Ihore ! Thus
was this great man, whofe warlike talents

y4 had

528 I JS T T E R S

bad made the Romans free of the (eas, and
added kingdoms to her empire, baieiy ilain,
landing on the territories of a king who
owed to him his crown ! His freedman,
Philip, favoured by darknefs, collected the
wreck of a boat, and, taking off his mantle to
in«>wrap the melancholy remains of his mailer, *
burnt the body, as was the cuilom. An old
Ibldier, who had ferved under Pompey,
mingling his tears with tho(e of Philip,
aiiifled him in paying thefe lafl duties to the
manes of his general.

Pelufium had often been taken and pil-
laged in the wars of the Romans, Greeks,
and Arabs ; yet ilill preierved its commerce
and wealth till the time of the Crufades.
After taking it by aiiault, the chriftian princes
lacked it, and no more rifing from its ruins,
its inhabitants, as I have laid, removed to
Damietta.

'Farama,' founded by the * Arabs, Ibme-
what eaft of Pelufium, fucceeded it, but did
not long fiibfill, for it was ruinous in the
thirteenth century. Abulfeda, citing

£bn Haukal, fays here was the tomb of

(b)' Deferiptien of Egypt*

Galen.

OK E t5 -Y P T.

Galen. He is miftaken: this celebrated
phyfician was buried at Pergamus^ his native
place (i). The maulbleum Abulfeda men-
tions muft be that of Pompey, which Pliny
places iome diftance from Mount^Cafius (k)^
Abulfeda adds> citing £bn Said, chat the
ifthmus of Suez is only twenty-three leagues
wide, in this part* and that Amrou intended
to have cut a canal that £hould have com-
municated with the two feas, but was pre-
vented by Omar> who, wanting a marine,
feared to give the Greek (hips a paflage into
his ilates. This enterprize, though great,
would probably have been executed by the
man who conquered Egypt, and dug'a na-
vigable canal from the Nile to the Red Sea.

) Galen, after ftudying phyflc at Alexandria, qime, at
the age of thirty 'four, to Rome, where his learning and
talents foon made him known. Marcus Aurelius, a judge
of merit, appointed him his phylician, which he after-
ward was to two of his fucceilbrs. Weary of the court,

. Galen retired to Pergamus, his. native place ; where.,'
paffing the remainder of his life in calm philofophy,
he died, aged lixty-three.

Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. v. cap. 12. The ruins of
Farama are near Mount Cafius, and the tomb men-
tioned by Ebn Haukal feems to be that of Pompey.

Leaving

^3® LET T E R ?

LeiEiving the Pelufiac branchy and proceed-
ing wedward along the lea diore* we come
to the Tanitic mouth* ib named from.Tanis*
a confiderable city built on an iiland of the
lake, and the capital of a Nomos. It flou-
riflied under Auguftus* fl) but Abulfeda
informs us it was dedroyed, in his time* and
liad become uncultivated and forlaken.

Several hihermen have aifured me* during
sny ftay at Damietta* th^ had (een marble
columns and ruins of grand edifices in an
ifland of the lake. 1 intended to have vi-
fited them, but on account of the great
•expence of fuch a voyage* in purchafing
perniifGon of the governor* and obtaining
one of his offices and fbme Janiflaries to ac-
■ company me* I was obliged to renounce this
projed. May fbme one richer than myfeli;
or aided by government* fearch this grand
lake* obferve the depth of its mouths* de-
icribe the < antiquities it contains* and per-
form what no modern travellers have under-
taken.

After the Tanitic comes the Mendefiaa

Strabo* lib. jy*

mouth*

OK EGYPT.

31 *

inoutby Co named from the ancient city of
Mendes famous for its teniple, and

the indecent ceremonies of the goat, the
origin of which was this, according to He-
rodotus foj, ** Hercules ardently intreated
** Jupiter would fhew himielf to him ; which,
deaf to his prayer, the God refufed. At
** length, overcome by his intercefhons, he
** conlented, on condition it Ihould be. in
** the form of a goat ; and, ' covering him-
** ielf with the fkin Of that animal, he ap-
** peared to the hero. The Egyptians to
prefcrve the memory of this events repre-
fent Jupiter with the head of a goat. . .* . • •
** When the facred animal dibs, the Men-
** defian province obferves a general mourn-
** ing.*’ Decency forbids me to cite the' re-
mainder of this paf&ge i thoie who' ddSfe to
know how far the phrenzy of bigpfiy may
carry an ignorant and fuperftitious populace
may confult the original.

The traveller who would find~fhe tuiils of
IVfendes mud:, according to Herodotus and
Strabo, Ccek them not far from the canal of

/mj An Egyptian word, figniii^ng goat. Herodetos.
("qJ Lib. ii.

Achmpun,

LETTERS

332

Achmoun^ on the banks of the lake Men«
zala. '

Before we come to the Phatmetic branchy I
have deicribed a new one on the map, not no-
ticed by any geographer, which I obferved in
a voyage I made thither when the Nile was
high. It is about a hundred and fifty feet wide,
the current tolerably ilrong, but I know not if
it be deep, or be not dry a part of the year.
It is a natural channel which the waters of
the lake have opened into the fea, into
which a part of the river might eafily be
turned to give palTage to veflels. A league
farther is the Phatmetic branch, now that
of Damietta : here the Delta begins, and
cape Bourlos, near the Sebennytic mouth,
forms the headland. It is terminated by
the Roietta, formerly the Bolbitine branch ;

. and, anciently, extended to the Canopic
branch, which falls into the fea, near Abou-
kir. Thefe are the feven mouths of the Nile,
fung by the Poets fp J, which once were all
navigable, and which only thofe of Roietta
and Damietta now are ; Ibme of them might

(p) Et feptein gemini turbant trepidaoftia Nilt. Firg.

Ferque papyriferi feptemflua flumina Nili* Ovid,

again

O K ^ E G Y P T.

3.S3

again be opened, but, in the preient feeble'
condition of Egypt, they ieem more dilpofed
to fliut than to open their ports to Grangers.

It remains for me to fay Ibmething con-
cerning the great lake, whole banks we have
been coalling. Strabo and the Arabian
writers call it Tanis, after the city of that
name. It is now named Menzala : its waters
are foft, in the time of inundation, and be-
come brackilh as the river retreats within its
channel. It was the fame under the reign
of the Caliphs. “ The Nile overflowing at
“ the fummer folflice, the cansds which
difcharge themlelvcs into the lake Taiiis
make the waters foft ; and the reflux of
the fea, during winter, renders them fait.
There are illands in the lake, built over
“ like towns, as Nabli, Touna, Samnaa,
** and Halian-Elma, which c’an only be
approached by boats.** {rj A vifit to

i

(q) Strabo, lib. 17.

(rJ Oua bchira Tents aza anted el Nil fi el feif azab
maouha. ' Oua aza gezar n elcheta ila aouan, el bahr
rhaleb, fe maleh maouha. Oua iiha meden metl elgc-
zair tatheif elbehira, oua hie Nabli, oua Touna, oua
Samnaa, oua Hajpm el ma ; oua tarik. ila ouahada menha
clla belfafen. Gtograpb, Nuhienf. feSl. 3.

thele

LETTERS

33 +

thefe ides* which no modern traveller has
examined, and where manufcripts and an-
tiquities might be found, ieems an objeiA of
importance.

About twelve hundred boats, each annu- *
ally paying fix-and-thirty {hillings to the
receiver of the Pacha, continually fi(h on the
lake. Among the various fpecics of filh it
fupplies, tome are excellent, fuch as the
queyagti the gemalt the fotird, the ible, and
the gilt-head. The quality of the waters
gives their flefti whitenefs, and delicacy of
flavour : they are fold in Damietta, and the
neighbouring towns •, and in fuch abundance
that a large foie, or gilt.head, coils but two-
pence.

The Bourri, or mallet. Is die mod benefi-
cial of all to the iilhermen, who open the
females, and take out the roe, of which they
make boutargue, fs) by faking, and vend
it through all Egypt. The various outlets of
the lake to 'the Nile and Mediterranean being
full of illands, rulhes, infe(5ls, and herbs, the
river and lea-filh fwarm and multiply here
infinitely 5 fupplying two thoufand fiflier-
men, and clouds of birds, without apparent

(s) They fait the roe, and dry it in the fun ; it is
a food well krown to the failors of Provence.

dimi-

O N E G Y P T. 335

diminution. Nature has done fb much for
Egypt that the fecundity of its earth and
waters is inconceivable ; wherefore has it ever
been a nurfing-mother to neighbouring
nations. The waters of the lake are covered
with wild-geefe, ducks, teal, divers, and the
ibis. I have killed feveral of the latter in.
the marfhes near Rofetta; their clavrs and
neck are long, and bodies fmall ; alternately
black and white, and they feed on iiih, frogs,
and reptiles. Here alfo are many cormo-
rants, the grey and the white heron, fnipes,
rice-hens, cranes, red-£hanks, &c. The birds
which moft attraA notice are the filver-fwan,
proudly fwimming in . the waters i the
flamingo, with red and black wings, and
the (lately pelican ; the latter furpofTes the
others in its majeftic port, height, and (hape j
and, by its white plumage, rivals the fwan in
beauty. It is (een among the birds that
croud the lake, riling above them all. With
its tufted head, like their monarch. Nature
has provided it with an exceedingly Arong
beak to overpower large filh. The Arabs
have found means to tame and teach it to
give them the prey. The only pelican of
this fjpecies I faw in France was in the Royal

Menagery,

336 LETTERS

Menagery ; and, though long captivity, and a
ihiaU extent of water, where the bird could
not difplay itfelf, deprived it of much of its
beauty, yet, its proud form and white plu-
mage {hewed it ilill to be a moil noble bird.

1 have mentioned ibme of the principal
{pecies of birds that frequent the lake, but the
variety of their colours, the diverfity of their
cries, and their prodigious multitudes, I can
give you no idea of! Far as the eye can reach
they cover its furface. Every minute innu-
merable* Eights defcribe vail circuits in the
air, and gently defcend on its bofom 5 others
flying the approach of the flfhermen, rile . in
clouds to fcek the iblitude they love ; here a
vafl family, aflembled in a flock, fwim,
and there others, iifing on *the wing, bear
their prey in their beak. The continual mo-
tion, the vafl: of waters, gently ruffled by the
v.dnd^ diflant iflands, brightened by the fun-
beams, boats, cutting the fllver waves, banks,
fliaded by groves, variegated by villages, and
decked in eternal verdure, all prefent an ever
changeable, but ever charming profpedt, which
I have a hundred times enjoyed with unceaflng
pleafure.

1 have the honour to be, &c*

LET-

ON EGYPT.

ssr

LETTER XXV.

E^xpedition of Louis IX. to Egypt, from yohi-
vide, and Arabian authors, his defeent near
the Giza of Damietta : viStcry : ickiKg.of
I^amietta: march ef the armv up tee I\iVe
to the canal of Man four a: atte-mpts to cro/s
it : danger of the paffage : and the vlclcrv
and defeat ‘which fcliowed. Death f the
Comte dh Artois. ^Taking of Louis IX a fid
his 'ivhole army. Mafacre of Tcuran Shah.
"The ranfom of the French king : his defar-^
ture Jor Saint John d' Acre, ‘with a por-
trait <f that moftarcb.

To M. L. M.

Dam:ct££.

I II ERE fend you. Sir, the expedition of
Saint Louis into Egypt, extracted from Join-
ville and Arabian authors, and vcri;icd on the
fpot.

Louis wintered in the iflc of Cyprus with
mofl cf his troops, the remainder was to join
him at the general rendezvous before Dami-
etta. He failed on Whitfun- Monday from
-Limazo, accompanied by eighteen hundred
VoL. 1. 'li veilels.

LETTERS

333

vefTels, great and final], the moft formida-
ble fquadron the Mediterranean had beheld
(ince the Perfians. The lea leemed covered
with ihips to a vaA extent ; and, during the
pafl'age, the prince of the Morea and the duke
of Burgundy joined the royal fleet, which
in four days anchored in the road of Dami-
etta. Nejem Eddin, of the race of the Ayou-
bites, then governed Egypt and Syria.
Learned in the trade of arms, by the wars
he had fuAained againA the Crufaders,
Charefmians, and inhabitants of Damalcus,
and the victories he had gained over thefe
ancniies, which had confirmed his power,
and eAabliAied his authority among the fol«
diers ; equally politic and br^ve, as capable of
wielding the feeptrt as the fword; hiinfeli
di<Aating orders to his miniAcrs for the inte-
rior government of hi? kingdom, and anfwer-
ing the petitions his fubjedts prefented, while
he formed the plan of a campaign ; fuch,
according to Abulfeda, was the king Louis
had to combat. When the French monarch
arrived at the ifle of Cyprus he had quitted
Syria; and, forefecing the Aorm, which me-
naced the Mahometans, would burA over
Damietta, had added new fortifications to that

important

ON EGYPT.

339

important place. Having fupplied it with
a numerous garrifon, proviiions, and imple-
ments of war, proper to fudain a long (iege,
he removed to Achmoun Tanis, to obierve
the enemy's motions. Though dungeroufly
ill, he negledted nothing which might frus-
trate their deligns. Fact Eddin was fent with
a conliderable body of cavalry, to oppofe the
landing of the French ; and, porting himfclf
near the Giza f t) of Damietta, and the wef-
tern fliore of the ‘Nile, and the fea, he there
might ealily impede their debarkation.

The Egyptian army, properly drawn up,
vvas leen by the fleet two hundred paces from
the fliore, W’ith the mingled founds of drums
and trumpets, galours fiylng, burnirtied arms,
reflecting the fun-beams, and a face of
war, which awed the bold, and terrified the
timid. The king called his barons to con-
fuk on what was mort expedient, who advifed
him to v/ait the coming up of the reft of his

{t) Giza, as I have faid, fignific? angle, or end. This
Was the mofl diilanc fuburb of jDamietta, built on the
other fide the Nile. A mount of ftoncs and rubbifh ftill
marks its feite, facing the ftnaM village of Elba. The
bridge to Damirtta began here : 1 have carefully ob-
leri'ed thefe places on my various journeys hither, and
marked them cn the map.

Z z army

SAG LETTERS

army before he ventured a defcent in prefence
of an enemy fo well intrenched. Louis
rejeded the pufillanimous advice, and obferved
that the road of Damietta was ib expofed
that, fliould a Aorm rife, the fleet would
either be difperfed or driven on fhore : he
therefore gave orders to land on the morrow
morning, and commanded an attack on the
Egyptians, fhould they not refufe to give battle.
>. On Friday, the 4th of June, 1249, the
boats, with the French army, rowed towards
the {horej as they landed the enemy’s cavalry
fell upon them, but the foldiers, fixing their
bucklers in the fand, and prefenting their
lances, formed a pointed wall. Their refo-
lute countenance cooled the Mahometan
impetuofity, and they only galloped aboiu,
and threw their javelins. When the king
^w the royal Aandard erected on fhore, he
jumped from his boat into the fca, and, wad-
ing up to the arm-pits, marched fword in
hand to the enemy. The French, encouraged
by his prefence, ran to the attack, and gained

The Eg}'ptians had fo flopped up the Nile that
the French fleet could not enter ; and, the road of Dami-
etta being very dangerous, the determination of Louis
was.cqually prudent and brave.

a bloody

ON EGYPT.

34 *

bloody victory. Two Emirs were flain j
which lofs, and a deicent ib bold, fb terrified
Facr Eddin that he pafled the night on the
bridge of Damietta, and haftily fled. A panic
fear at fight of this feized the garrifbn, who
cowardly abandoned the bulwark of Egypt,
and the inhabitants efcaped in the dark«
Sh e French entered on the morrow without
oppoiitioji. Thus a city, which, thirty years
before, fuflained a iiege of fixteen months,
was taken in one day. The French flag was
difplayed from the towers of Damietta on the
Sunday, where abundant florcs, and vad quan-
tities of arms, were found. The vidiors, after
giving heaven thanks for this fortunate con-
qued, deliberated whether they diould net di-
rectly march for Grand Cairo: this w’ould have
been their wifed courfb, the Nile being low^
they would have found fewer impediments;
but Louis refufed to depart before the arri^j^
of the Comte de Poitiers, his brother, who
brought the arriere-ban of France.

The taking this important fortrefs fpread
condernation through Grand Cairo, whole
inhabitants imagined the enemy at their
gates. The Sultan's illnefs increafed their
terrors ; and fo great was the alarm . that
the timid ded toward Upper Bgypt, while a

Z 3 * few

342

LETTERS

few brave men, animated by the love of their
country, joined the army of Nejem Eddin,
who, accuftomed to the fortune of war, was
not difcou raged by this unforefeen accident }
^•though he caufed fifty of the principal officers,
who had ib dilhonourably quitted their pods,
to be beheaded. Facr Eddin he durd not pu*
nifh thus, fearing to excite a rebellion in the
army, where this general was beloved ; but
be flernly reprimanded him, and, removing
to Manfoura, he was active in putting it into
a date of defence, at which the whole army
laboured. Fixing his camp between the canal
of Achmoun and this town, he refblved to
wait for the enemy in a pod fb advantageous,
and prevent their paffing the rivers mean-
time he fent fome iquadrons of light horfe
to harafs the French in their camp.

The critical moment was lod in waiting
*itir the Comte de Foitiers, by which the
Egyptians profited, fortifying themfelves, and
adembling their forces. Their panic over*
they fkirmifbed round the French camp,
which the Arabs entered in the dark, making
fome prifbners, and ilaughtering thole they
could . not carry off. The lord de Cour-
tenay was thus beheaded, after they had kil-
'r led

ON EGYPT.

343

led the centinel before his teat. The kin^
then encompailed the camp by a deep foir<^
and made the archers mount guard at night.
The favourable fealbn for marching up the
country was wafted* and the fwelling of the
Nile daily filled the canals which interfedied
the plain, and rendered the march of an army
^fticult, in face of an enemy who might
impede them at every ftep. The Legate,
according to the cuftom of the age, ordered
proceftions to haften the arrival of the Comte
de Poitiers, three fucceftive Saturdays, from
Damietta to the fea. They were very pom-
pous, the king and the lords walking
in them. The prince at length arrived, at
which the camp rejoiced. As fbon as he had
landed, Louis aftembled his barons, to advife
on their future proceedings ; opinions were
divided ; the Comte Peter of Britanny, and
moft of the lords, held it beft to go, immedi
ately, and befiege Alexandria, one of the keys
of Egypt. They obferved this city had an
excellent harbour, where the fleet might
winter in fecurity, and the army, while con-
quering the country, might, by this means,
receive the proviflons and fuccour it fhould
need i adding that, the (hips neither being

Z 4 able

2 ^ LETTERS

able to enter the Nile nor remain in the
road, the French would be in danger of
periihing by famine, ihould any misfortune
befall them. Theie were weighty reaibnsj
but the Comte d*Artois thought differently*
and faid, he who would kill the ferpent
fliould crufh his head ; and therefore it was
bed to march immediately for the capittf/.
Louis, reje(^ing the advice of his barons,
followed that of his brother, forgetting the
obflacles he had to encounter, and departure
was refolved on.

Nejem Eddin died the 22d of November,
of an abfcefs in the lungs, in the fower of
his age. The Sultana Chegeret Eddour,
whofe genius was fuperior to her fex, in-
dead of linking under the misfortune, em-
ployed herfclf in faving the date. Sending
for Facr Eddin, general of the army, and
Jhc eunuch, Dgemal Eddin, who podeded
great authority, die intreated them to aid
her in . the government, and keep the Sultanas
death l^ret till the arrival of her fon Touran
Shah, who was in Diar Bekir, and to whom
couriers were dilpatched. Budnefs was tranf*
a^ed, and orders were fent through Egypt,
in the Saltan’s name, as if he had dill been

living!

ON EGYPT.

345

living; 'which policy kept the troops from
defpondeney, and, by concealing the lofs of
Nejem Eddin from the enemy, prevented
them from profiting by fo favourable a cir«
cumftance. At the beginning of advent, the
French army fx) left the plains of Damietta,
i^d on the yth of December encamped at
Fnefcour, where it remained to dam up a
canal which ran from the river to the lake
Menzala. This they eafily accomplilhed,
becaule they railed their mound at its mouth.
Facr Eddin* fent five hundred horle, well
mounted, to dilpute the pafiage of the river,
who polled themfelves on the oppolite Ihore.
Spite of their bold countenance, the Teniplars
crolled firll ; and^ the king having forbid them
to attack the enemy, formed their ranks.
This caution emboldened the Arabs, who
conllrued it into fear, and attacking the Temr«

(x) Macrizi, w)io generally agrees with Jotnville, fixes,
like him, the departure of the French in the month ot
December, but attributes it to the news of the Sultan’s
death ; whereas, it is certain, from Joinville, the French
did not hear of it till they encamped near Manfoura, and
that the arrival of the Comte de Poitiers was the realbn
of this daring and dangerous march during the inunda*
tion. Thus hiltorians, reciting fa£b, su« often miflaken
in theif caufes.

plars

LETTERS

pkrs furloufly, Rew one of thoie brave war-
riors, beiide Renaut de Bichiers, their mar-
flial. Indignant at the Hght, and incapable of
reftraining his ardour, he exclaimed, “ Upon
“ them, in the name of God j I can bear no
“ more.” The whole corps immediately was
in motion, and fell on the Egyptians, who/??
ranks, unable to fu/lain the /hock, >^re
broken ; part of them were /lain, and the
re/l driven into the river, where they perilhed*
This fuccefs unfortunately encouraged dif-
obedience, which occaiioned all the con/c-
quent di/grace of the French.

The army encamped, the fame day at
Sherim/ah, a village not far diflant, without
mole/lation from the enemy; its march was
flow, becau/e arms of the river, or large
rivulets, were continually to be dammed up.
Tt next encamped at Baramoun, and did not
appear at Manfoura till the 19th of Decem-
ber. Between the town and the French was
the canal of Achmoun, which mu/l be
paiied to attack the enemy, entrenched on
the oppofite fide; (y) and in order to gain
pofieffion of this important place. ^

(y) In the map accompanying the fine edition of
Joinville, printed at the Louvre, by order of the king,

the

ON EGYPT.

347

A fleet of large boats accompanied the
army» which it plentifully fupplied. They
/ought by land and water. The canal of
Achmoun is as wide as the Saone» and much
deeper: its banks in general are ileep^ and
it was iitipoflible to pafs it by fwimming in
of the whole force of Egypt. They,
th^efore^ determined to throw up a mound;
and baliftae, and other machines* proper to
throw ilones* were ereifted, as were two
wooden towers, with covered galleries* to
protect the workmen ; but* inflead of begin-
ning at the mouth of the canal* as at Fareicour*
they went half a league below, which ren-
dered their enterprize impoflible $ for* as they
advanced* the Egyptians made deep cuts*
which, fuddenly bearing the waters again!):
the mound* deflroyed, in a moment, the work
of feveral weeks. Ill fuccefs did not deter^
the engineers* who obflinately continued the
plan they began with. While the work was
purflUed with zeal* Facr Eddin* fecretly* laod^
cd troops at SherimiUi* who unexpededly

the canal of Achmoun is placed beyond Manlbura, con-
trary to truth, and hiftory. The French muft have
come from Upper Egypt to befiege this town* if fo ; or
they wouldnot have-met widi this canal on their pail^;

attacked

LETTERS

34 *

attacked the camp, and occafioned fbme
diforder. Joinville, who, with the Templars,
guarded the Damietta fide, hafiily armed, and
repelled the enemy. This induced Louis to
cut a fofle from the canal of Achmoun to
the Nile, which gave fecurity to the camp.

. The fruitlefs labours of the mound
continued. The enemy, grown bold, a (econd
time attacked the camp, and, after an obfti-
nate fight, were repelled, with loft, by the
Comte d’Anjou. They then fell on the part
defended by the Comte de Poitiers, but a
vigorous rcfiftance again obliged them to
retire. Notwithftanding theie repulfes the
Arab horfe continually ficirted the army, and
feized on all ftragglers. The impra<5ticable
mound was not completed ; the Egyptians
ftiowered fiones on the workmen, and gave
ftill greater annoyance by the greek-fire,
which they leveral times cafi, and burnt the
towers and galleries, in defiance of the efforts
of the French. Joinville, who was on guard
one night at the mound, gives a terrifying
defeription of the greek-fire. ** The fire they
** caft was as large as a tun, with a long burn-
** ing tail i its noife in the air was like
** thunder, and it ieemed a dying dragon.

“ The

** The light it gave was fo great that T could
** lee throughout the camp as clearly as in
open day.’* .This artificial fire confumcd
the body on which it fell, without a poffi-
bility of its being extinguifbed ; yet the
burning the towers and galleries made them
'Hot abandon an ill-conceived project. Wood
was^ coIie(5led, from the boats, to build new
works, which underwent the like fate, . in
Ipite of the valour of the French. This laft
misfortune Ipread defolation through the
camp, and all hope of padlng the canal was
given up. While they deliberated on return-
ing to Damietta, the conflable, Hymbert de
Beaujeu, came to tell the king a Bedaouin-
had promiled to difeover a ford, if they would
give him five hundred befans of gold. Louis
confented; the ford w'as found; and the
Duke of Burgundy was left to guard the camp,
while the king and his three brothers wenf
to combat the Egyptians. On the 8 th of
February, 1250, the French cavalry, guided
by the Bedaouin, aflembled, by day-break,
before the ford, two leagues diftant from the
Nile, and, entering the waters, which were

fzj Bedaouin comes from Bedaoui, inhabitant of the
Defer t ; the wandering Arabs, are fo called.

deep.

LETTERS

3S*

deep, the f aj horfes rvram as far as the middle
of the canal ; but^ finding footing, they foon
reached the oppofite bank ; though ieveral
were drowned in this dangerous pafiage*
among whom was John of Orleans. Some
three hundred Arabs, who defended the pa/s,
were loon put to flight. The king co^
snanded the Templars to lead the van, "and
the Comte d* Artois, with his corps to fuftain
them. But this prince, feeing the enemy fly,
could not moderate his ardour, and purfued.
The grand mafler of the Templars fent to
beg that he would wait, for that it was his
right to march firfl, conjuring the prince not
to di/honour him by taking a poll confided to
his valour. Without daring to reply, the
Comte liflened to the remonflrances 5 but,
unfortunately, Fourcaut du Merne, his brave
fquire, who held the bridle of his hor/e, was
deaf, and, not hearing what was faid to the
prince, continued advancing, and calling aloud
** Upon them !** Perceiving this, and thinking
their honour at flake, if they did not hold

( o) Jolnville and Macrizi both (ay the Nile was then
at its higheft, which is extraordinary, for that was the
feafon when the waters Ihould have been low. Arabian
biftory, indeed, contains lunilar examples, and the inun-
dation has been known a month or two later than ufua!.

their

ON EGYPT,

3S«

their rank, the Templars Ipurred their horles,
' and gallopped toward the enemy. Terrified
at this unforefeen attack, the Egyptians fied
on all fides, abandoning their camp ; while
thele brave, but imprudent, cavaliers, van-
quifhing all who refilled, came to Manlbura,
i^ced one of the gates, and entered the city.
Facr Eddin, who was then at the bath, Icarce
had time to drefs himfelf and mount a
horfe, w'ithout laddie or bridle. Collecting
Ibme of his flaves to oppofe the torrent, he
and they were fiain. So fudden was the
attack, and the rout lb rapid, that the
Comte d’Artcis and the Templars were in
Manlbura before a part of the army had
palled the ford,^ Had the troops been all
united, and the viflors fuftained, the defeat
would have been general, and Manfoura, and,
perhaps, all Egypt, conquered. But there
was a Ipace of two leagues between the van
and the rear of the French army. Bibars
Elbondoux Dari, chief of the Baharites, (b)

faw

(h) Nejem EJetin had befieged Napoli, a town in
where, his troops flying, the Baharite Haves faf-
tained the Ihock of the enemy, and gave the prince time
to cfcape. This fcrvice gained his confidence, and, fuc'

ceedine

35* LETTERS

iaw the error, and profited by it like ah able
general, rallying the fugitives, afiembling the
Bower of the Egyptian cavalry, and throwing
himfelf between the city and the main body
of the French to prevent all communication.
While he fought divided troops, and flopped
the pafiage of Louis the Comte de Poitie^ps
and the Comte d’Anjou, the Egyptians, ahi<>-
mated by his example, took courage, and
attacked the too hafly cavaliers, who were
combating in the narrow flreets of Manfoura,
They were excellently feconded by the inha-

ceeding to the throne of Egypt, foon after, inileacl of hi»
brother. Melee Eladal Seif Eddin, he beftowed many
favours on them, and raifed them to the iirit employments.
Quitting the caille of Salah Eddin,. the former rcfidcnce
of the Sultans, to inhabit that he had built in the ifle of
Raouda, oppollte Old Cairo, he appointed his favourite
ilaves to guard it } and, as the Arabs call great rivers
JBahar, or fea, they took the name of Baharites, or mari-
time. Having alTaffinated Touran Shah, the laft of the
family of the Ayoubites, they reigned over Egypt and
Syria a hundred and thirty-Ax years, and had twenty-
feven kings. They were Turks, originally, bought of
Syrian merchants, by Nejem Eddin, and were dethroned,
in their turn, by the Mamluks, or CircaAian ilaves, in
the year 784 of the Hegyra, who formed a new dynafty,
which continued till the conqueft of Egypt by Selim, in
the year 923 of the Hegyra.

bitants.

ON EGYPT.

353

bhants who {howered flones on them from
the tops of their houfes. The French funk
under the general ailault ; two thirds of the
Templars^ and near three hundred knigkts,
perilhed ; the Comte d’Artois, after perform-
ing wonders, fell, covered with wounds,
^midll a heap of dead, an unhappy vii^im to his
own dilbbedience of orders: with him fellmoft
of his officers. Joinville, and feveral brave
knights, took refuge in an old houfe, valor-
oufly defending themfelves againfl hofts of
enemies, but with little hope of efcaping
death, mol); of them being dangeroully wound-
ed. In this extreme peril, Erart de Severey,
who had been cut in the face with a fabre,
and bled exceffively, faid, “ Knights, if you
“ will ihield the memory of me and my
** delcendants from all blame, 1 will go and
demand aid from the Comte d’Anjou, whom
** I perceive yonder in the plain.** All ap-
plauding his resolution, he mounted his horic,
galloped through Squadrons of the enemy,
and came to the prince ; who, hearing the
news he brought, went to the relief of Join-
ville and the reft. Thus were they indebted
for life to this gentleman ; who, almoft dying,
dreaded a dishonourable grave for having
VoL. I. A a abandoned

354

LETTERS

abandoned his companions, though it was
only to bring them iuccour.

The corps which the king commanded
advanced cn the plain, and iiiftained every
attack of the Turkiili and Arab cavalry.
Mounted on a noble horle he appeared a
Hero amidil his iqiiadrons ; his helmet was

gilt with gold, his iV/ord was German, and
his arms highly biirnifhcd ; his fortitude, for
the carnage was great, infpired valcur. The
armies were fo clofely engaged they could
only ufe the mace, the battle-ax, and f:brc.
While he found employment for the bei't of
the enemy’s horle, John de Valeri advHtd
him to turn to the right, toward the river,
that he might be iaftained by the Duke Oi

a

Burgundy, and not iurrounded, wliich coun-
fei his generals approved. The oflicer wiio
bore the ileval Standard received orders ac-

Icordingly ; this . movement expofed ilic ad-
vanced troops, and fcarccly had they retreated
a ftep before the Comte de Poitiers, and the
Duke of Flanders, font to tell the king they
were loft, if he did not face about and give
them time to jciri him. He hahed, and, juft
then, Hymbert de Beaujeu came to inform
him the Comte d’Artois, encon)pafled by

enemies.

ON EGYPT.

355

enemies, Aill defended himfelf in a houfe of
Manfoura, but that his death was certain, if
not diredtly relieved. Tell him, faid the mo-
narch, I follow you, and, inftantly, the con-
flable, Joinville, and fome cavaliers^ left the
main body, and haftened toward the city.
Scarcely had they proceeded a quarter of a
league before a large corps of the enemy,
coming between them and the king, prevent-
ed him from advancing, and Joinville, feeing
it impoflible to join the main body, or gain
Manlbura, where the Turks were viclorious,
propofed to the con liable to poft thenifelves
on a bridge over a large rivulet, and prevent
the enemy from attacking the French in the
rear. The otfer was accented, and fi?: cava-
liers undertook to keep the pafs. Mean time,
the different corps cf the chriifian arm}^
divided and fiirrounded by the mahometans,
were vigoroully driven back, toward the
canal ; a great number of cavaliers, thinking
all was loft, haftily threw themfelves in, but
their fatigued hories could not gain the oppo-
fite Ihore, and, in a moment, the waters, were
covered with arms and drowning men.
The king faw his life in danger ; abandoned
by his troops, fix Turks, feizing his horfe’s

A a 2 bridle.

356 LETTERS

bridle, were leading him prilbner ; bur, with
unihaken fortitude, collefting all his flrength^
and ufing his excellent arms with agility
and addrcfs, he, alone, vanquKhed his iix
enemies. This heroic adtion flopped the
fugitives ; afhamed to forfake a king who
fo bravely defended himfelf, his knights
crowded round him, and, as if the prodigy
they had beheld had given them new povvers^
furioufly renewed the combat, and repelled
the vidlors.

Joinville and Hymbert, who ftill kept their
poll, faw the Comte Peter of Britanny
coming from Manfbura, his face covered
with blood, heading a fquadron in which both
officers and foldiers were mo|l df them dan-
geroiifly wounded, and purfued full fpeed by
the Turks. The conftable and his fmall
troop Hew to their fupport, and robbed the
enemy of their prize.. JoinvDlc invited the
Comte de Soiilbns, his kinfman, to flay and
guard the bridge with him, and prevent the
mahometans from taking the French in
the rear. This brave knight accepted the
offer, and Hymbert, feeing them deter-
mined to guard this important pofl, went
for a reinforcement. Peter de Neville, fur-

named

ON EGYPT.

357

named Cayet, joined them ; and thefc three
knights, their lances in the red, and co-
vering tbemfelves with their fhields, defend-
ed the pafs agaioft every attack. Two of
the valiant guards of the king, named Wil-
liam de Boon and John de Gomaches, kept
before them, nor could the Turks make
them retreat a flep. The arms of theie
generous warriors were /luck with darts.
Peter de Neville received a blow on the
head from a mace ; Joinville was wounded
by five javelins, and his horfe by fifteen.
While thus expoied to a thoufand perils,
the Comte de Soifibns, incapable of fear,
pleaiantly laid to Joinville, The hallooing
“ of this mob, Senefchal, is fine fport ;
** by god*s .quoif (it was his ufual oath)
** well talk of this day in our ladles cham-
bers." Gallantry we find always accom-
panied French valor.

The conftable kept his word with the
heroes of the bridge; brought them fuccour
toward the evening, and drove off the ene-
my. They then joined the king, who, as
well as his Ibldiers, had fought all day, with-
out eating. Night coming on, both armies
retired. The Sieur de Chatillon commanded

A a 3 the *

LETTERS

358

the rear guard, and part of the French ar-
my, mailers of the Egyptian camp and their
war machines, there padded the night. The
other part, under the Duke of Burgun-
dy, was encamped north of the canal. The
Comte d’ Artois and many a lord loR their
lives on this day, which had feen the taking
of Manfoura, and the total defeat of the
Egyptians, had the attack by the French been
general, as the Arab writers themfclves con-
fefs fcj. But, unfortunately, the King’s
orders having been difrelpedled, the French
were divided, and the addrefs of Bibars pre-
vented them from re-uniting. While guard-
ing the bridge, Joinviile fays ^he faw many
a pretty gentleman flying, full fpeed, whom
no calling could flop : but that Guion de
Malvoilin, with a company of knights, his
kinfmen, and the Comte Peter of Eritaiiny,
returned glorioufly, and honourably, from
Manfoura, .where they had flgualized their
courage.

^c^Macrizi, who has well deferibed the expedition
of Louis, owns Manfoura were loll, and the Alahome-
t'ans totally defeated, had the French attacked in a
body, and not by diviiions.

On

ON EGYPT.

359

. On the morning of that memorable day,
they had down a pigeon, from Man-

foura, to carry the ncvv’S, to Grand Cairo,
of the death of Facr Eddin, and the flight
of the Egyptians. The letter Ij^read con-
ilernation, which the fugitives augment-
ed : the gates of the city were open all
night Ter their reception ; but, on the mor-
row, another pigeon informed them of the
fuccei's of Bibars, and the Baharites. Glad-
r.efs fuccceded forrow, the citizens congratu-
lated each other in the flreets, and public
rtj -.'icings were made.

The enemy were armed by fun riling, and
made an irruption into the camp to regain their
maciiines from the French. The attack waS
on the iide guarded by Joinvill.*, who, hear-

ing thcc;; , to arm?, rc--c ; but he and his
feidiers were fo ilitf with their wounds they
couid neither \ve*r liclmct nor cuirafs. Xhey

This V'l:iv.h h'lOg fahllilcd in the eaft,

is i’ijw ioft ; thoi:j;!j, i-ol ionj llnce, the merchants of
Svria u;v.\l tiius oj i-.-.f-rm their correfpondents of the
ariival of fhips it the port of Alexandria, whence,
lettin" .t pljj-'cn fly, the news rcjitheJ Aleppo in five
or fix hours. The Cailpiis had cfiahlilhcd tl]^ rapid
mode of intelligence from Cairo to Bagdad.

A a 4 marched*

LETTERS

360

marched, however, to the enemy, who, ha»
▼ing forced the van guard, were near ieizing
their baliflas. The king fent a reinforce-
ment, under de Chatillon, and the Egyp-
tians were driven beyond the pallifades.
Eight Turks, at fbme diftance, well armed,
intrenched behind a mount of Hones, and
fuHained by a body of cavalry, (hot their ran-
dom arrows into the camp, and wounded many
of the foldiers. Joinville was refolved to
attack them, during the night, and deilroy
their intrenchment ; but John de Vafley,
one of his pricHs, had Icfs patience } he put
on an iron helmet, and a cuirafs, and, taking
a large feymitar under his arm, walked to-
ward them. They paid little attention at
the light of a fingle nian, and he infenlibly
approached j when near enough, he drew
his feymitar, ran upon them, and, with his
two* handed llrokcs, put all the eight to
flight, which valorcus action rendered him
famous throughout the army,

Touran Shah arrived, and the Sultana,
wbofe fruitful genius had found relburces,
and the reins of government in times fb
difficult, remitted them to the new Sultan,
who came to Manfoura, appeared at the

bead

o N E G Y P T. 361

head of his troops, and fhewed them the
coat of mail of the Comte d’Artois, affirm-
ing it was that of the King. ** Brave
** muffiilmen, added he, the enemy have
•* loft their chief } redouble your efforts,
** they cannot withftand your valour : let
“ us make a general affiiult ta-morrow, force
** their camp, and exterminate thefe French
from the earth.” The fbldiers loudly
applauded, and prepared to do their duty.
Louis, informed by his fpies of the medi-
tated attack, commanded each chief, at
day-break, to difpofe his battalions, in
good order, behind the pallifade of ftakes
they had fixed to prevent the encmy-s ca-
valry from penetrating the camp; vi'hich
orders were obeyed. At fun-rifing, the
Sultan was feen, on a ftately fteed, ranging
his troops from the canal of Achmoun to
the river, the cavalry in the van, the in-
fantry in the rear, and ftrengthening his
lines, in proportion to the enemies he had
to face. His troops thus prepared, he difi.
played his colours, about noon, and founded
the charge (a fearful and confufed noife . of
drums and trumpets) and the Egyptian army
alTailed the French on all ftdes. The Comte

d’Anjou,

LETTERS

362

d’ Anjou, at the front of the camp, next
Manlbuia, was tlie firll: attacked. The foot
advanced, and, having thrown their greek-
fire, the horle luccccdcd, and, forcing a way
with their fabres, entered the intrenchments.
Moft of the French cavalry were difmounted
at the battle .of Manfoura, and the prince
fought on foot with his foldicrs. The num-
ber cf the enemy, their fuperiority as ca-
valry, and the dreadful artificial £re they
employed, threw his battalion into diibrder,
and, fpite of his valour, he was in danger of
being taken or killed. This news being
brought the King, he new to refeue liis
brother with what cavaliers he had, and
penetrated fo far into the croud that his
hoile’s brir.Ie vvas covered 'with the "reek-

fire, and hinueif in danger of Ll:;:" bunit.
The jLgypiians, hosvever, could not (land
the fliock of tlie King and his generous
knights, but retrcited in dilorder.

Next the Comte d’ Anjou were the cru-
faders, comnianded by Guy d’lbelin, and
Baldwin his brother, near whom was Walter
de ChatiJlon, at the head cf his fquadccn.
Thcfe two corps, full of brave kr.ights, and

e;;cellent

O N E G Y P T. 363

excellent cavalry, repelled every, affault, and
remained firm, not receding a ftep.

William de Sonnac, grand matter of the
Templars, having before lott mott of his
knights, fortified that part of the camp he
guarded with a double pallifade, to which
the Egyptians fet fire, and, rulliing through
the flames, aflTailed him with fury. The
valorous Templars, though covered with
darts and arrows, formed an impenetrable
rampart, and their grand matter, who had
loft an eye, at Manfoura, received a wound
in the other of which he died. Joinville
aflerts that behind the ground they occupied
was u large fjaace fo covered v/ith javelins
as to hide the lurface.

Guion de Malvoifin, who commanded a bat-
talion near the Templars, defended himttlf
fo well that the enemv could irain no advan-
tage 5 but the brave chief’ v/as near being
conlumed by the greek-fire.

Comte William of Flanders and his forces
extended along the river : he boldly received
the Egyptians, repelled them furioufly, put
all to flight who oppofed him, and killed a
great number. Walter de la Horgne here

iignalized

LETTERS

3 ^ 4 -

iignalized his courage by high deeda of arms.
The Comte de Poitiers ivas next in order ;
but, having only infantry, his troops were
broken, the camp penetrated, and the prince
ieized. The women and butchers, feeing
him led priibner, began tofhout, armed them-
felves with hatchets, fdd upon the vidiors,
drove them from the entrenchments, and
recover^ the king’s brother.

Jocerant de Brancion, one of the moH:
valiant knights in the French army, defended
that part of the camp next the canal : his
foldiers were all on foot, he alone on hor&-
back. The Arabs, feveral times, broke his
ranks, but the brave Brancion, with fabre in
hand, continually rallied his men and repulfed
them. He and his foldiers, however, mull
have fallen, had not Henry de Brienne, from
the Duke of Burgundy’s camp, annoyed the
enemy with his crofs-bow men, over the
canal, every time they renewed the attack.
De Brancion had been in fix-and-diirty com-
bats and battles, where he had always home
away the prize, and on this day, not the
mod: inglorious of his life, received a great
number of wounds of which he died.

Night

ON EGYPT. 2(55

Night icparated the combatants, and, on
the morrow, the King afiembled his Barons to
conible them for their lodes, and excite con-
ilancy. “ Gentlemen,” faid he, let us return
** Heaven thanks, and take courage : we have
paded the canal, driven the enemy from.
** their camp, and, without cavalry, oppofed
" the whole power of the Sultan.” Dif-
couraged by reddance fo obftinate, Touran
Shah, in fadfc, defpaired of forcing the
P'rench camp, and determined to darve
them. Their army was abundantly fup-
plied by the providons colledted at Dami«
etta, which were brought to them by the
fmall deet they had on the river, and the
Sultan properly judged that, could he cut
off the communication between the camp
and Damietta, he might conquer thofe by
famine which he could not by force. Every
means accordingly were employed j a great
number of boats was adembled, unrigged,
tranfported on the backs of camels near the
canal of Mehalla^^y/, and concealed in a proper

place

(e) We learn from Abulfcda there were feveral
towns and villages in Egypt called Mehalla ; the place,
diere meant is three leagues below Manfoura, where

there

366

LETTERS

place for an ambuicade. The French fleet
unfufpedtingly was> as ufual, bringing pro-
viflons, when, approaching the ifle where
the Sultan’s gallies were hidden, the Egyp-
tians fuddenly appeared, furprized their ene-
mies, attacked them furioufly, furrounded
them, killed about a thoufand foldiers, and
took fifty large loaded boats. The Egyptians
thus become maflers of the river, there was
no longer anv communication between the
camp and Damietta ; and Icarcity loon fiic-
ceeded, with difeafe, its dreadful attendant.
The wounded, wanting nutriment, peri/licd,
and the dead bodies, floating on the river
and the canal, corrupted the air ; a de-
flrudlive epidemic malady ravaged tiie army,
and few of thofe who were attacked cicaped
death. Their flefli dried on iheir bones,

their hvid ikin was fpotted black, and their

#

th;re is a fikiall canal, the mouth oi' wl-ich hidden
by an ific, ‘-which fet-ms a proper pl;ace for an ambuf-
cacie. in' the edition of Joinvillc printed at the Louvre,
a note is cited, in which Macrizi mcniions Alchalla,
and they have erruneoufly fuppofed he meant Mehalla
Kcbira, capital of one of the provinces of the Delta,
and fix ]ea:rues above Manfoura. The French muft
have had their provilions from Upper Egypt, could a
fleet at this place have intercepted their con; ijy.

gums

ON EGYPT.

367

gums were £0 prodigioufly fwelled they could
take no food till the excrefcent flefti was cut
away. All who underwent this operationfhriek*
cd mofl lamentably. Such was the condition
of an army- lately fo flourilTiing. The Arabian
authors agree w'ith Joinviiie in giving a
terrifying defcription of the deplorable ftate
of the French, encompalTed by enemies, and
preyed on by all the horrors of famine and
diieafe.

The remaining vcilcls from Damietta, on
the yth of March 1250, made a new attempt
to bring fupplies to the army, but were all
taken, except one, belonging to the Comte
of Flanders, which fo valiantly defended
iti'cjf that it forced its way to the camp,
wii'.re it brought the news of the defeat of
the two fleets, and the impoffibility of re-
ceiving fuccour from Damietta while the
gallies of the enemy 1 warmed on the river.
This added to theconilernation and afHidlions
of the French ; and I-ouis, after advifing
with his Barons, rcfolved to retreat over a
wooden bridge they had thrown acrofs the
canal, and join the Duke of Burgundy.
That the enemy might not profit by this

motion.

L E T T E R S

368

motion, a wall was thrown up, Toms dIRance
from the bridge, behind which the troops
filed off. The baggage went firft, then the
King and his corps ; De Chatillon com-
manded the rear guard, and the whole
Egyptian army fell upon him ; but their
impetuofity was repelled by the firmnefs
with which they were received : enemy
however fucceeded enemy, and a part of
the army, prefled between the wall and the
canal, and alTaulted with the greck-fire
and javelins, was in the utmoH: peril. The
valour of the Comte d’Anjou faved them,
and rcpulfed the Egyptians. Geoffrey de
Muflenbourg, who fought by his fide, dif-
tinguifhed himfelf by heroic deeds, and me-
rited the palm of that day.

The French, encamped behind the canal
of Achmoun, were in fafety from the fword,
but not from contagion and famine, to which
Louis, as wc:ll his foldiers, was fubje^ted.
The camp daily became a vafl: cemetery,
where death feledked his vJdlims. A truce
now only could fave the remains of the army,
and this was propofed to the Sultan : miniA
ters were mutually appointed, and the French

king

O N E G Y P Ti 36^

king o^red to reftore Damietta, (f) oii con*
dition that the knights of Jeru&lem Should be
reinftated in the places they had lofhin Syria,
The parties not agreeing, the conferences
were broken off, and the French had but oner
reibuFce, which was to gain Damietta. It
was determined to fly, on Tuefday night, the

The Crufaders attacked Damietta in the year
1218, and took it, after a liege of lixteen months.
Sultan Melek Elmakel retreated, two days march from
the city, and encamped at the angle formed by the
canal of Achmoun and the Nile, where Manfoura was
built. The Crufaders followed, and encamped on
the oppolite bank, facing the Egyptians, who in-
tercepted the communication between the European
army and Damietta, and the latter oflered to refiore the.
city, on condition Jerufalem, Afcalon, and Tiberius^
were ceded to them, which propofal was rejected. The
Sultan made a cut from the Nile, then at its greateffc
height, and inundated the enemies camp, lb that they
were up to the middle in water, and, had it not been
for a caufeway, mull have been all drowned. MelSk
then threw bridges over the canal of Achmoun, and
fent troops, who feized the mound, and the Crufaders,
burning their tents, and war machines, would have
returned to Damietta, but found it impolHble. They
then offered to reftore the city, and peace was con-
cluded, on that condition, in Z22X.— 'Thus far Ma-
crizi in hiS hillory of the Arab dynafties. Louis, en-
camped in the fame place, offered the fame conditions,
but was not ecpially fortunate.

VoL. I. B 1? 5 ih

LETTERS

S7«

5th of April; and the king eofximandcsd'his
brothers and the engineers to cut the cables
which held the -bridge over the canal of Ach-
moun. When it was dark, the troops began
to file off toward Damietta, and thoie whom
difeale prevented from walking or riding
defcended the river in boats, among whom
was Joinville. Louis, though weakened by
a dyfenteiy, would neither forfake his troops
nor be the firfi in flight ; on tlie contrary, he
kept with the rear-guard, commanded by de
Chatillon; Geofiry de Sergines, of all his
officers, was the only one who refufed to
abandon him in this dangerous poll. At
day^break, the Egyptians perceiving the army
bad decamped, hotly purfued. Notwithfiand-*
ing the pofitive orders of the king, the bridge
had not been deflroyed, but they pafled it ;
and the cavalry, full gallop, came up with
fhe French at. Farefcour. The rear-guard
was firft attacked, where Geoffry de Sergines.
mpfi intrepidly defended his king, admirably
wielding his mace and fword, and repelling
-affiulants. He led him into a houie in the
‘village, were fatigue and difeale made him
faint in the arms of a tradefwoman of Paris ;
rccoverkig, he had the cpnfolation to learn

that

ON EGYPT.

37 *

that (bme five knights afiembled round his
peiibn, defended him valiantly againft the
Sultan’s forces^ fighting dei^rately at the
entrance of the village, where the French^
infpired by the hope of faving a king they
adored, did wonders, and difputed for vic-
tory. fgj Amidfi; the conflict, a trsutor,
named Marcel, called, with a loud voice,
" Knights, the king commands you to yield ;
•• let him not perifii by your obitinacy.”
Hearing this, they laid down their arms, and
the king, his brothers, and the whole army,
were taken priibners. Walter de Chatillon
had alone defended a fireet againfi: a hod of
foes; completely armed, and well mounted,
with a moft treq^iendous fword, as the Egyp-
tians appeared, he flew to the rencounter,
crying, Chatillon I Knight ! Where are my
brave men ? and vanquiihing thoie that faced
him, turned about to attack the aflailants in
the rear. After killing a great number of

(g) The Arab authors agree with Joinvilie, flic King,
by flying firft, might have efcaped to Damietta, hut,
though this would have been moll prudent, the gene*
rous prince refufed to leave fo many brave men expoled
to the enemy, and his courage made choice of the moft
dangerous poll.

enemies.

Bbs

LETTERS

37 *

enemies, planted with arrows, exhaufted by
fatigue, he fell, and they cut off his h^ad.
The king and the prifoners were condufled to
Manfoura, nor had thofe in the boats a better
fate ; they fell into the enemy’s hands, who
forced Tome of them into the river. Joinville
eicaped death by a kind of miracle, being fo
feeble he could fcarcely iland upright. They
were goin^ to behead him, had not a generous
Arab, pitying his fate, taken him in his arms,
and exclaimed, with all his force. He is the
king’s coufin. This faved his life, and he,
with many more lords, were taken to Man-
foura. Ralph de Wanon, who was in the
fame boat, had been hamftrung in a former
battle, and could not (land : an old Arab had

t

companion on, him, and iffiffcd him in all the
wants of nature.

Touran Shah lent fifty robes to the king and
Ills lords, who put them on, except Louis,
who refufed, haughtily, faying he was fove-
reign of a kingdom as great as Egypt, and it
was derogatory for him to appear cloathed in
the robes of another monarch. The Sultan
invited him to a banquet he had prepared,
but, equally indexible, he let them underdand
he perceived the Sultan’s aim in this polite-

nefs.

ON EGYPT.

373

nefs, and the deiire he had to exhibit him
to his army.

Ten thoufand French were in chains.
Their number embarrafled Touraa Shah«
and the barbarian, nightly, had four
or five hundred taken from prifbn, all of
whom were beheaded, who refufed to em-
brace Mahometan! fm, by Seif Eddin, the
cruel minifler of his vengeance. Peter of
Britanny was appointed to treat of the releafe
of Louis and the prifoners. The Egyptians
required them to reftore Damietta, and the
places they held in Syria; the latter article
was reje<Sled. The Mahometans broke off
the treaty, and, endeavouring to effeA their
purpofe by fear,, fent armed men where the
king and his brothers were* guarded, who,
flourifhing their fabres, threatened to flrike off
their heads. Findins; thefe menaces inefiec-

O

tual, and that nothing could induce a king
whole foul was fuperior to adverfity to com-
mit an adt of injuflice, the negociation was
renewed. The Egyptians demanded 100,000
befans (about 20,000 1.) and to have Damietta
reftored for the deliverance of the king and
. prifoners ; to which Louis confented, provided
his queen fbould approve the treaty. The

B b 3 Mahometans

LETTERS

374

Mahometans appearing furprized at this chafe,
he added, die queen is my miflrefs, without
whole confent I will do nothing. Touran
Shah» aRonilhed the king fo readily lliould
grant a liiqi lb coqliderable, wilhing to Teem
generous, declared he would remit a fifth part
of the ranlbm, and the parties agreed, and their
oaths unutually exchanged, the Sultan com-
manded them to put the king and prifoners
on board four great yeffels, and take them to
Pamietta,

While the articles were preparing, Joinville
and ieveral Lords, imprifoned in a diftant tent«
law a company of youth, armed with feyme-
tars, headed by an old man, enter ; whom,
knowing the nightly executions, they fup-
pofed the minillers of death. The old man
sdked them, in a grave voice, whether they
beheyed God had died and rilen again for
theht. They anfwered in ‘ the affirmative.
Then be npt difeouraged, replied this grave
per^nage, remember your fufferings for him
equal not what he fuffiered for you, and if he
Jiad the power to rife from the dead he will
• fieUyer you when he lhall think fit. So fay-
jing he retired, impreffing their minds with
^ftoniffiment, and reviving hope in their

hearts.

ON EGYPT.

m

hearts. Soon after they learnt the treaty wa«
eoncluded which reH^ored them to freedom,
Touran Shah had brought with him, from
Diar Bekir, fome half a hundred courtiers,
who had gained his confidence ; and the be->
ginning of his reign was iignalized by tho
degradation of his father's fer^pants, and the
rife of his favourites. The former had fuc-'
cefiively arrived at their offices and dignities*
by real fervices, and were fuddenly ftripped,
that thefe new intruders might occupy the
moft important pofts. The grandees and
officers of the army were difgufled at this
injuftice 5 but the bad policy of the Sultan
did not flop here ; he was indebted for the
▼idlory at Manfpura, and the defeat of the
French, to the valour of the JBaharites. Far
from rewarding, and thus gaining the affec-
tion of a corps Nejam Eddin had formed,
formidable for its valour and power, he took
their employments from them,, and gave
them to underfland they fhould be difbanded.
Such imprudence did but excite their indig***
nation : hate brooded in the heart, and venge*
ance only waited for a pretext, which the
Sultan foon gave them. During the'negoci-
ations, he had retired to Farefcour, the

B b 4 theatre

LETTERS

376

theatre of his vidtory, where a wooden tower
was ere(^ed on the bank of the river, together
with magnificent tents ; and here he en-
camped, waiting the refioration of Damietta.
Intoxicated by fuccefs and flattery, he in-
dulged in debauchery, and every kind of
voluptuoufiiefs. Gold glides like water from
the hands of fuch a king : his expences be-
came exceffive, and to fupply his pleafiires,
he demanded refiitution of his father’s trea-
fures of the Sultana Chegeret Eddour, with
threats, if not immediately fatisfied. This
ambitious woman faw the fall ofherfelf or
the tyrant inevitable, went to the chief of
tdie Bahari^s, enumerated the fervices ihe
had render^ the fiate in its day of difirefs,
the efieem in which fhe held that corps, and
the ingratitude of Touran Shah, ending by
imploring their protedlion again fi a king who
had vowed implacable hatred to the friends
of Nejam Eddin. This was fufficient to
rouze the vengeance of the Baharites, to
which they were but too much inclined.
She was promifed redreis, and the death of
the Sultan fworn. The very fame day. Bi-
bars, having (educed his attendants, entered
his tent, while he was at teble, made a

ilroke

ON EGYPT.

377

Aroke at him with a fabre, which would
have cloven his fkull had he not parried
it with his hand s his fingers were cut
and he hafiily fled, purfued by the aflafiins>
into the tower on the bank of the Nile,
and (hut the door. The French, then,
proceeding to Damietta, having flopped at
this place, were witnefies of a mofi: fhocking
fcene. The murderers, finding they could
not gain admiilion, fet fire to the tower. In
vain did Touran Shah cry he would abdicate
the throne, and only require to return to
DIar Bekir: they were deaf to his inter-
ceffions and groans ; furrounded by the flafnes,
he leaped from the top of the tower, but, a
nail catching his mantle, he remained fuf-
pended ; the barbarians fell upon him, hacked
him with their fabres, and cad him into
the river, near the boat in which Joinville
was. This horrid tranfa^on pafled in fi^t
of the Egyptian army, who made not a
fingle effort to fave their king, fb highly
were they irritated by his imprudence. Thus
miferably perifhed the lad Sultan of the fa-
mily of the Ayoubites, edablifhed in Egypt
by Salah Eddin.

^ter the ms^acre the Sultana was de-
clared

378 LETTERS

dared Queen j the firft flave who reigned over
£g3rpt during the reign of the Arabs. Some
fay the was a Turk, others an Armenian $ the
had been bought by Nejem Eddin whom
the fo captivated, that he never futFered her
to be from him, but took her to his wars.
Money was coined in her name, and Emir
Azed Eddin Aibah, the Turcoman, was
named Generalitlimo

(*) The Sultana efpoufed him after the had reigned
thrw months, and divefted hcrfelf of fovereign power
in his favour. He was the SrH: Sultan of the dynafly
of Baharites. After reigning feven years, the, per-
ceiving he was, tired of enjoying the title of King,
only, while the had the authority, and that he was
inclined to other amours, had him afTaHinated, though,
to pleafe her, he had divorced a wife whom he loved.
Nour Eddin, the fon of this unhappy wife, conceived
a violent hatred againd; the Sultana, bribed her women
to murder her, and her corpfe, throw'ii naked into a
ditch, remained three days unburied, but at laft was
entombed in the fepulchre the had prepared. Nour
Eddin, the fecond Baharice Saltan, was alTaflinatcd in
two years time,' and fucceeded by Bibars, who reigned,
glbrioufly, feventcen years. The laft of the Baharites
who reigned in Egypt, llhref Hadge, voluntarily ab-
dicated royalty. Barkouk, fucceeding him, began the
dy.'.afty of the Mamluks, or Circaffian flaves, who,
under twp>and-twenty kings, governed Egypt Z2i
years. Thoman Bey was the laft, whom Selim caufed
to be hung under one of the gates of Cairo.

The

ON EGYPT.

379

The afTafiins entered the ihips that con-
tained the ’French prifoners, and^ he who
had ended Touran Shah, with his hand ilill
reeking with blood, {aid to Louis, What'
wilt thou give me for having rid thee of
thy enemy ? The king made no reply. Sc-^
veral of thefe wretches leapt fabre in hand
on board the galley where Joinville was and
many Lords, and, fiouriihing their weapons*
threatened to ftrike off their heads. The
tragedy they had beheld had terrified thefe
brave knights, and, not lefs pious than va-
liant," thinking all was over, fell on their
knees bef9re a Trinitarian friar, and, all to-
gether, began to confefs their fins. The croud
being great, and. the priefi unable to hear
theni ail at once, Guy d’Ybelin, confiable
of Cyprus, confeffed to Joinville, who re-
plied with admirable naivete. According to
the power God has given me I give thee
abfblution. Bayard, thus, the knight, with-
out fear or reproach, mortally wounded, con-
feiled himlelf under an oak to his fquire.
Thefe Lords, however, were only thrown
pell-mell into the hold, where, difeafed as
^ey were, they pafied a miferable night, ii^
expedlatlon of an end more miferable ; for
fhcy firmly believed they were only to be

380 LETTERS

releafed from their dungeon to be put to
death. Abou Ali being named to treat
with the King of France, after many debates
they renewed their former agreement, and it
was ftipulated^ that, before leaving the Nile,
Louis fhould pay eight hundred pounds to-
wards the ranfom, evacuate Damietta, and
difcharge the remaining fum in the city of
St. John d’Acre. Oaths were mutually ex-
changed, and the French Lords taken from
their captivity, and, once more, allowed to
hope their misfortunes would have an end.

The difgrace of the King and army reached
the Queen, and overwhelmed her with af-
diction. • She was pregnant, and the news
was brought three days before delivery. Her
terrified fancy piQured the enemy at the
gates of Damietta, where fhe had been left.
She law them enter the city w'iih fire and
fword, and her -agitations became fb violent
that it was thought fhe would have expired.
A knight, eighty years of age, w^Q devoted
himfelf to her lervice, left her neither day
nor night. The wretched Queen fiarted in
her lleep, imagining the barbarians were
forcing her apartment, and the old knight,
who held her hand while fhe flept, clafping
it, then faid. Fear nothing. Madam, you

are

ON EGYPT,

3S1

are fafe. She had not ilept a moment, again,
before ihe awoke, fhrieking, and he again
endeavoured to appeafe h^r fears. That ihe
might rid herfelf of theie dreadful ideas,
the queen commanded all to leave her cham>
her, except her guardian ; then, falling on
her knees to him, fhe faid, Promife me,
“ knight, to grant the favour I /hall re-
** queil,” he promi/ed, and /he continued.
** I conjure you, by the faith you have
“ fworn, fhould the Saracens take the city,
you will cut off my head before I fall
into their hands.*’ ** Madam,” replied
the knight, ** this, be certain, I /hall wil-
“ lingly perform j I had indeed thought on
f* the fubjedt, and was re/blved rather to
take your life than fuffer. them to feize
“ your per/bn.” This promUe gave tran-
quillity to the Queen, and the day after
this a/Fedting /cene /he was delivered of a
fon, named John Triftan, (the. forrowful)
alluding to the unhappy times in which he
was born. The fame day they informed
her the Genoe/e, the Pifans, who were in
the pay of France, and the townfmen, in-
tended to fly from Damietta. She /ent for
the principal of them to her bedllde, and,

weeping.

^$2 ^ ^ ^ E R S

weeping, faid, For the love of God^ gen^
•* tlemen, do not abandon the city } it will
«* be the deftrudtion of the King and the
whole army ; have pi^ on the infant you
“ fee lying befide me.** They replied, they
mud die of hunger; and (he, immediately,
ordered all the proviiions in the city to be
purchafed and (ent them, faying they (hould
be maintained at the King’s expence. Thus
(he faved Damietta, the lad refource of the
French.

The (hips in which Louis and the other
prifoners were, being come near the bridge
of Damietta, the King (ent for the Queen
and Princedes on board. On the appointed
day, all the French quitted the city, and em-
barked in various (hips, and the Egyptians
with them, who, being drunk, inhumanly
killed the (ick whom their treaty obliged
them to take care of till they came to St.
John d’Acre. This by no means befpoke up-
right intentions, on their part, and, in fadf,
a violent diipute had ariien among them-
felves; the one part indding on murdering
the King, and all the prilbners, and the
other in keeping their dipulations ; ad-
that (hould the Egyptians thus vio-
late

O N E G Y P T. ^3

late their oaths they would be held the moft
infamous people on. earth. The conteH: in-
creafed, and they were a. whole day in doubt.
Mean time the vedels in which the unhappy
captives were had been lent a league above
Damietta, nor were they left ignorant that
they were intended to be' maflacred. At laft,
Aibah, the Turcoman, hoping to divide the
remainder of the ranlbm which was to be
paid at St. John d'Acre with the Baharites,
drew his fabre, and fwore he never would
fufier the faith of treaties thus to be violated.
This terminated the difference, and they
agreed to reffore the French to freedom.
While the Egyptians meditated this abomi-
nable a<f!t, the King was in high wrath againff:
a Lord, who told him, that, in paying the
promifed fum, they had been wronged of four
hundred pounds, which the king ordered to
be reftored them, although they had already
failed in a part of their engagements. At

(k) According to the Arab hiitorlans, the fear, only,
of lofing the ranfom preferred the King and all the
prifoners : the barbarians, who fo lately had drenched
their hands in the blood of their Sultan, would- not
have fpared one of their enemies, had not their intereft
•ppofed their cruelty.

length.

L fe T T E R S

384

lengthy every thing being iettledy the Kingy
his brothers, and Queen, embarked for St.
John d*Acre, in 1250, eleven months and
ibme days after the taking of that city.

Gemel Eddin, an Arab hidorian, gives the
following portrait of Louis. The King
•* pofTeded a fine perfon, underftanding, for-
** titude, and religion. His good qualities
attracted the veneration of the Chrifiians,
** who had great confidence in him : he might
** have efcaped from the Egyptians by flight,
** either on horfeback or in a boat, but the
** generous king never would abandon his
*• army.”

I have the honour to be, &c.

This work was publiihed at two different times, and
in three volumes, the firff of which ended here, except
a ihort letter, expreifive of the author’s hopes and fear^-
concerning the fuccefs of his work. This is omitted, as
likewife is the beginning of the next letter, being only
a ihort complimentary introdu«Etion to the iecond vc>
lume, neither neceffary nor interefiing, which might
confufe, but could not inform the reader. An interval
of ibme months elapfed between writing of this and the
following letter, during which the author returned to
Grand Cairo. T.

let

ON EGYPT.

38s

LETTER XXVI.

From Old Cairo to T^amieb: Leave Fqfiat
in the month of November , the Mofque
Atar Ennabi deferibed^ and reflexions
on the pilgrimages made thither, State
of the plain of E^pt at this feafon of the
year: comparifons between the pyramids ^
the tomb of Maujoleus, and the Morai of
Otaheite, Details on the plain of Mummies^
the flints of Egypt and the Dachbour or
Acanthos, Arrival at L’amieb in the pro-*
vince of Fayoum,

To M. L. M. •

Grand Cairo.

TT is now November, and the favourable
fealbn to vifit the Said (a) i the heat is
temperate, and the flooded canals permit us
to vifit the inland country by water. Em*
hark we, therefore, on this river, which, with
its multiplied branches, for the fpace of two

a) All Upper Egypt from Old Cairo to Afibuan, or
Syene, is called Said by the Arabs.

VoL. I. C c

hundred

LETTERS

386

hundred leagues, fertilizes that valley virhere
the wife and the great have, for three thou-
fand years, gone to admire the ruins of a peo-
ple who exerted every faculty to make their
works immortal.

We leave Old Cairo, the north wind drives
us rapidly againft the current, the waters have
receded from the hills, but the low parts are
ilill inundated, though the majeil:ic Nile,
lilently, and gently, keeps retiring ; \ erdurc
and harved follow his footfteps, and in-
ceflantly Ipring where he fo lately trod.
Here cucumbers and water melons are plant-
ed, and there the plough lightly furrows the
furface, eafily drawn by oxen, under the care
of a iingle man. Dourra and corn already
cover the high lands.

Vv’e are now palling Jeziret Dahab, the
golden iile, a meadow abounding in cattle,
on * which is a linall village. On our left
we leave the grand mofque Atar Ennabi, built
on the bank of the river, much frequented
by the inhabitants of Cairo, and the objedt
of a famous pilgrimage. It contains a ftooq
on which the hrlulTulmen believe the marks
of the feet of rvlahomet are imprcfled j for
this reafon they call it Atar Ennabi, the

vellige

O N E G Y P T. 38;

veftige of the prophet. The otHciating Sheik
takes care to encourage this pious faith, and
to publish the miracles performed ; for, as his
wealth wholly centers in this relic, he pre>
fcrves it as a thing moft precious, and covers
it with a fumptuous veil, which he lifts up
for devotees, from whom he experts a fmall
prefen t. The following account I had from
a Lady of Cairo, the wife of a French mer-
chant (b)t who has lived forty years in
Egypt.

“ I had often heard of Atar Ennabi, and
** its miracles 5 and w’as defirous to lee this
•* famous ftone. My drefs, exadlly refem-
** bling that of the Turkilh womenj^ made
me fuppofed one of them 5 and I went to
“ the mofque at an hour when there were
not many people. I requeued the Sheik to
** (hew me the relic, and two Turkilh wo-
** men, of conlequcnce, entering at ihe fame
“ time, teflihed the like deiire. He uncovered
“ it, and, after burning fome rich perfumes,
“ and reciting palTiges from the Coran,
** faid. Behold that facred mark 1 Wonder

{h) M. ivlaynard, whofe probity and knowledge have
gained him the cftcein of the french, Copts, Turks,
and Arabs.

C c a

** at

388 L E T T E & S

«* at the footftep of the greateft of prophets,
** of Mahomet 1 The Turkifh women re-
peated, with enthuhafm, yes, it is indeed
** the footftep of Mahomet, the greatcft of
*• prophets ! For my own part, I alTure yon,
“ notwithftanding the mod Icrupulous at-
** tention, I faw nothing but a fmooth ftone,
“ well perfumed, on which I could difcover
neither traces of a foot nor any thing fimi-
“ lar.” How flrange is the credulity of
man, which enilaves his reaibn, and makes
him fee, feel, and hear what never exiiT:-
cd ! Thus, M. Tournefort, being prefen t
when a tomb was opened in one of the
Archipelago ifles, in which the people were
convinced they iliould find a Vampyre, faw
only a livid conpfe, half worm-eaten ; while
the Greeks perceived an entire body of pure
flefh and blood, which, according to them,
ha(f not the leafl: ofFenfive fmell.

Norden, .in his delightful views of F.gypt,
has well depi<^ed the mofque of Atar £n-
nabi and its environs, but was deceived in
placing Memphis at Giza, though he ought
not to be therefore reproached, for he him-
felf confeiTes he doubts this was not the real
feite of that ancient city, which 1 imagine I

have

ON EGYPT.

389

have perfeftly determined, in thepreceding let-
ters ; nor ihould I again have mentioned that
error, into which feveral travellers have fallen,
did I not fear others might like wife be de-
ceived. Thus milled, the learned Jablonfki,
('cj vainly, has employed all his fagacity to
difcover what he fuppoled to be truth.

At fbme diflance from Atar Ennabi, a fmall
village is feen, through the tufted date trees,
where the T urks have a mofque, and the Copts
a convent, named Der Ettin, the monaftery of
the fgs ; no doubt, becaufe this fruit is there
abundant. There are two fpecies j the firft
grows on the very branches of thelycamore, but
is dry, and little edeemed ; the latter, the fame
that is cultivated in France, is juicy, fweet,
and of an exquifite flavour. ' On the caftern
bank are villages, built on the top of artifi-
cial mounts, to which the men and cattle
retire during the inundation.' Lucerne, fbwa
as the Nile withdraws its waters, already
forms a verdant zone around thefe fmall ifles.
Wandering Arab tribes have pitched their
tents on the fide of Tandy hills, to profit

(c) This falfc pofttion of Memphis induced him, alfo,
to affirm the temple of Serapis was created in the ifle
of Raouda, which is another error.

C c 3

by

LETTERS

390

by the river, and purchafed, during fbme
months, the right to fend their cattle to
graze in meadows which they forfake, when
the pailurage fails. Martyrs to that liberty
they padiunately love, thefe unconquerable
people prefer the horrors of the defert to
all the advantages of fociety, fly the very
Shadow of ilavery, and, ever on their guard
againlt tyranny, on the leafl dilIati&fa<5tion,
ftrike their tents, pack them upon their ca-
mels, ravage the open country, and, laden
with booty, hide themfelves among burning
fands, whither they cannot be purfued, and
which they only dare inhabit. The fcourge
of Egypt, which they regard as their patri-
mony, they are the irreconcilable enemies of
the 'i urks, wha fear and abhor them f cj.

Pafiing the village of Ecuhr, we are oppo-
pohce the grand pyramids, which rife fi:;
hundred perpendicular feet high, and, as
pur boat follows the windings of the river,
their fummits deferibe fegments of circles in
the horizon. With what majefty do thefe
mountains of man rile to the regions of air !

(e) Th is hatred gave birth to the French expreillon,
^reiter quelqu*un de T’urt d Mere : that is to fay, with
^e rigpur pf a T ufk towards an Arab.

Awful

ON EGYPT.

39 *

Awful in their age, how often has the riling
fun enlightened them, fcorched their burning
fides at noon, and gilded them as he let.
During how’ many ages have they, keeping
pace with the inconceivably fwift motion of
the earth, annually encircled this grand lu-
minary ! Man then has conftrudfced durable
edifices, and thefe edifices are tombs ! Some
authors, imagining the damage occalioned by
violently opening the grand pyramid was the
efFe<5fc of time, have calculated how many
ages they may flill endure ; but, the princi-
ple being falle, they are infinitely fhort of
the truth. To me it feems impoflible to fay
when they fliall ceafe to be. Thoufands of
ages hence, if undifturbed by any grand re-
volution in the earth, travellers, from en-
lightened nations, fhall go to admire thefe
vail monuments, and fay Europe fcarcely
had a few favages fcattcre'd over her forefls
when a learned nation eredled thefe fuperb
maufbleums, toward the four cardinal points
of heaven, as monuments of its piety, and
aflronomical knowledge !

Melons, peculiar to Egypt, named Abd
Hellaoui, the flave of mildnefs, are cultivated
in the neighbouring villages : firm and brit-

C c 4 lie.

39a L E T T E R &

tie, like the apple, though lefs Tweet than
other melons, they are preferred, becaule,
during the heats, they are very agreeable,
nutritive, and healthy. Here, alfo, is a Ipe-
cies of lettuce, with large, fmooth, and high
leaves, much elleemed : whole fields are co*
vered with them, being eaten in prodigious
quantities, and their iced ufed to make oil.
Hamlets are Teen on the right and left, as
we advance, whofe inhabitants are tilling
the land, which, in four months, will yield
them abundant returns. The village of Ha-
louan appears on the eaflern bank, furround-
cd by date- trees, where the Mekias was
when the Arabs conquered Egypt. Mem-
phis fiood on the oppofite fiiqre, where, pre-
ferving its name, the village of Menph now
(lands. Strabo, Pliny, and Abulfeda have
deferibed its ruins, and put this beyond doubt.
Here, fiill, are heaps of rubbifli ; but the co-
lumns and remarkable fiones the Arabs have
traii/jported to Cairo, and placed them, with-
out tafle or order, in their buildings and
inofques. This city extended almofl: to Sac-
cara, and was nearly furrounded by lakes,
which fiill in part Tubfift ; thele were crof-
ied to bear the dead to the fcpulchres of their

fathers.

ON EGYPT.

393

fathers. Their totnbs> dug in the rock, and
clofed by a ilone of proportionate iize, were
covered with fand ; and theie bodies, embalm*
ed with fuch care, preferved with Co much
reipedt, the inhabitants of Saccara drag fron^
their reding place, and, (hamelels, fell them
to foreigners. This is the plain of mummies;
and here is the well of birds, which is de-
feended by the aid of a rope: it leads into
fubterranean galleries, filled with earthern
velTels, which contain thefacred birds. They
are ieldom found whole, becaufe the Arabs
break them to fearch for idols of gold. They
never take travellers to the places where they
have found the mod precious things,, but
carefully clofe them, and have fccret paflages,
by which they delcend. The duke de Chaul*
nes, when travelling in Egypt, penetrated far
into thefe labyrinths ; fometimes on his
knees, and, at others, crawling. Preinftru6te*d,
by the Honorable W ortley Montague, he care*
fully vilited Egypt, and came to one of thdC?
paflages, which was doled, at the entrance,
by branches of the date-tree, interwoven, and
cpvcrcd with fand, where he obferved hiero-
glyphics, in relief, executed with the utmofl
perfedion : but his offers could not prevail

on

LETTERS

394

on them either to let him take cads or
drawings, of the figures (f). The Duke
thinks theie hieroglyphics, lb highly finilhed
as to give a perfect image of the objects they
reprefeiit, might become a key to thofe the
iimple outlines of which are only traced,
and form a kind of alphabet, to that unin-
telligible tongue. Be this as it may, I lhall
propoie means, in a letter on that fubje<^, to
attempt the explanation of thelc myfterious
characters, and read, on Egyptian monu-
ments, the mod ancient hidory of the world.

Along the mountains which bound Sac-
cara, on the wed, are feveral pyramids, the
larged of which leem as high as thole of
Giza. Indulge me in Ibmc r/sflciftions, which
obtrude themfslves upon my mind, at the
fight of edifices that attra<ft and fix my at-
tention. Did thele mauibleums originate in
the pride of the Pharaohs ; and mud wc at-
tribute their condrudtion to vanity ? So
various writers have thought. But leave vve
an opinion, which has no origin in the hu-
man heart. Kings build not palaces to in-
habit when dead. A more imperious fen-

(f) Memoire fur les hicrogiyphvs du puiii dc Saccara,
par M. Is Due de Chaulnes.

faticn.

ON EGYPT.

395

fation, a fear of the future, a perfuafion of
what muft happen after life, induced them
to raile'thefe magnificent tombs ('gj. Reli-
gion taught them that, fb long as their bodies
were prefer ved from corruption, their fouls
would not forfake them ; and that, in three
thoufand years, they fhould be reftored to
life. This belief occafioned them to raiie
buildings which the genius of the greatefl
architects endeavoured to render inacceflible ;
the pyramidal form was given them, as the
moil durable ; which form, alfb, referred
to their worfhip, by rendering homage to
the fun, whofe rays it imitated (/jJ, If fo,
here is a manifelt proof this ancient people
believed the immortality of the ipul. Kings,
now, as heretofore, are well 'fatisfied with

(^) Herodotus, Euterpe.

(h) Pliny, lib. 36, fays the obcliHcs were cohfecrated
to the fun, v.'hofi: rays they reprelentcd, as their Egyp-
tian name indicated ; for they, as well as the pyramids^
were, in Egyptian, named Pyramua, Sun*s rays. Vide
Jablonlki, tom. III. The Greeks iirft gave them the
name of obclilks ; leaving to the pyramids that of Pyra»
misy from lU'i, fire ; in which they have preferved the
ancient etymology. Obclilks w'ere firfi; confecrated tq
the fun, bccaufe, by their fhadows, they knew the hour
of the day.

this

396 LETTERS

this world : for them dowers and harvefls
fpring ; all Nature fmiles upon them ; and,
had they the faith of the Egyptian mo-
narchs, we ihould behold them produce mi-
racles, by which they would endeavour to
afcertain their return to earth. The religion
of Rgypt pafied into Greece, and Artemilia
built a maufoleum for her hufband, in the
pyramidal form, which rofc one of the fcven
wonders of the world. This fuppofition of
an immortal foul, found among idanders, fe-
parated from every enlightened nation by
immenfe feas, has produced a monument
which may well furprize us. The people
of Otaheite, unaflided by metal tools, have
cut flones, exceedingly hard, and formed a
pyramid, where the body of Oberea, their
queen, repofes. Round this morrai, her
relations and friends, with religious retro-
ipedb, (hed pious tears, and the fpirit of
Oberea hods confolation, at beholding their
gHef and affection (i).

Let us leave the gloomy deferts of Saccara,
where we walk upon graves, thole high py-
ramids, which inlpire melancholy contem-

(i) Hawkefworth*s Voyages, Vol. II. page |66.

plation.

O N £ G V P T. 397

plation, and the lake, over which they bore
the dead, that brings the fable of Charon to
recolleftion. We are once more in our
boat ! With what pleafure does the light,
fatigued by the glittering fcorched fand, dwell
on verdant profpe<fts, the pure iky, the ma«
jellic river, and fields w^hich every inftant
prefent new fburces of plenty. Having en->
dured the fearful pidture of llerility, what
an inexpreflible charm is it to view the fe-
cundity of Nature, who waits the man, ex-
piring in the defert he traverfes, to impart
fudden delight, and a new fource of life.

We are feven leagues above Old Cairo j
and here the Nile, impeded bjr rocks to the
eafl, ran wedward, and watered the fands of

I

Libya. According to Herodiptus, one
of the Pharaohs raifed a mound, and turned
its courfe between the mountains, forcing it
to empty itfelf into the bay- that then over-
flowed all the Delta, and thus gave birth
to that celebrated iflind, which llowly en=s*
croaches upon the Mediterranean. The an-
cient bed, which the Arabs call Ba6r bela
ma, a fea without water, may flill be traced ;

(k) See Letter I.

letters

39 «

it is every where ftrewed with the remains of
boats, by which it was formerly navigated,
now petrified, very large parts of which 1
have feen brought to Grand Cairo. A long
bank is ftill found, between Saccara and
Dachhour, thrown up to defend Memphis
from the inundation, if it (hould break the
mound ; and alfo from the torrents of fands
which the winds drove from the Libyan
hills.

The ifle of Tcrfaye is at fome diftance from'
this elbow } here they are beginning to plant
water melons and cucumbers. The Egyp-
tians cultivate a fpecies of the latter very fmall,
called Coufa, of which they are exceedingly
fond : it is mild, tender, and very delicate ;
they eat it in their fallads, but the rnofl ufual
mode is to pick out the feed, and fill it up
with hafhed meat, rice, and fpices ; cooked
thbs, in its own juice, it is excellent. Be-
yond this idand Dachhour is feen, up the
vountiy, to which th<;re is a canal, with a
done bridge of feveral arches. Strabo
and Ptolemy place Acanthos dx leagues

(i) Lib. 17.

("mj Lib. 4«

from

ON EGYPT.

399

from Memphis* on the fame fide of* and at
a difiance from* the river ; which fcitc pw-
feebly correfponds to Dachbour. Here was a
temple of Ofiris, now totally defiroyed ; but
wefi of the village, on the fide of the moun-
tain, is a grand pyramid, a continuation of
thofe of Saccara and Giza.

The Tandy plains* which extend along the
hills* are fcattered with fiones* vulgarly
called Egyptian flints. Round, like pebbles,
their rough fur face docs not invite any one to
pick them up ; but the grain, when broken*
is found extremely fine, capable of being
highly polifhed* and mofi of them contain-
ing the figures of herbs, plants, and (hrubs*
fb as often to form charming landfcapes.
Thefe dark lines,’ mofi elegantly traced, are
delightfully fpread over a light ground* pre-
ienting a vafi variety of defigns, and diffe-
rent (hades. There is great choice, for fhc
fands are covered with them. I (aw only one
Jew* at Cairo* who had the art to woriC
them into boxes, and knife handles* for
which reafon he took care to be well paid.
The fmall Hills beyond thefe plains abound
with oyfter, and other petrified, (hells. Pro^-
ceeding (butb, from Acanthos* we traverfe ^

vafi

4t» LETTERS

vaft country, the low fields of which are
watered and fertilized, at this fealbn of the
year, by rivulets. Thefe valHes are now
covered with corn, dourra, and verdure :
fame months hence, fiie Nile having quit-
ted them, they will become a defert. At
the far end of this plain is the village of
Tamieh, to which a canal is cut.

We now. Sir, enter the fertile province of
Arfinoe, at prelent Fayoum j the country of
wonders, where are the labyrinth, and its
twelve palaces ; the lake Moeris, and its py-
ramids. After tranferibing the ancients, 1
will add an exa<5t delcription of the prelcnt
ftate of thefe places, the monuments and
ruins that flill remain, and leave you. Sir,
to conjecture what they once were.

I have the honour to be, &c.

L E T-

ON EGYPT.

4di

LETTER XXVII.

^Be fopograpfy of the province of Fayou^ t cn»
quiries concerning its momtments, the pojition
if which is a/certained by the ancients^ and
the remaining ruins : fcite rf the labyrinth^
confirmed by Herodotus, Pliny, Diodorus,
Ptolemy, and the remains of Balad Caroun,
and Ccfr Caroun .* defcription f this won^
derful place, with rfieSlions on the JubjeB :
details on the lake Mceris : its extent, hi -
therto uncertain, determined by quotations
beforetime ufed for a purpofe the very re-
verfe : its conjiruhlion, canals, and Jluices
fully df played', with its prefent circunfe-
rence*

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

Egypt contains no monuments which
more have excited enquiries and dilputes,
among the learned, than the lake Moeris,
and the labyrinth ; which, as I have laid,
this province contains. The extent of the
one and the fcite of the other have, by turns,
VojL. I. D d been

402

LETTERS

been contefted. Geographers, to conciliate
all parties, have created two labyrinths (n).
Some writers have allowed the Id^e Mceris
an immenie circumference (o) : Others,
placing it in fairy landf^^, have employ-
ed the charms of wit to ridicule the cre-
dulity of hiilorians, Theie contradi^ftions
have darkened the clouds of incertainty, and
concealed truth. Let us endeavour to find
her, by citing the ancients, who fometimes
have been falfcly interpreted, by carefully
following Strabo, who has exactly defcribed
what he, like an enlightened traveller, vi-
iited ; and, particularly, by a faithful ac-
count of thofe remaining monuments he
mentions. “ Quitting Acanthos (q) 'wq leave
*' toward Arabia, Aphroditopolis, frj where
the facred white ox is kept.” (The village
Atfih, according to the mod learned geo-
graphers, fsj is the place where the city of

if nj D’Ariville, Memoires fur I’Egypte.

( oj Rollin Hift. ancienne. Bofl'uet, dif. fur THiil.
Univ.

(P) Voltaire.

(q) Strabo, lib. 17.
fr) The city of Venus.

( s) Ptolemy, lib. 4. D’Anville, Mem. fur TEgypte.
Pococke.

Venus

ON EGYPT.

403

Venus flood.) ** Beyond the Nile is the
Heracleotic prefedlure^ fituate in a large
** iiland.” The two canals, cut from the
river to the lake, the one from the village of
Bouch, and the other p^ng near Tamieh,
form this iiland. The remarkable ruins
found near Bayamout ieem to indicate the
fcite of Heraclea (t)^ the capital of that
province. Here are two ruinous pyramids
which contain only a few layers of ilones.
Strabo continues, Near Heraclea a canal
** runs, which, dividing into two branches,
** includes a fmall idand, and traverfes the
“ prefedlure of Arfinoc, the fined and richeil
“ in Egypt.** If we follow this ancient geo-
grapher on the map, we (hall find theie
places have fufiered little change, and lhall
be conducted diredily to Fayoum, the capi-
tal of all this country ; a modern town,
though a league north-eail ‘of its walls are
hills of ruins, in which we diicover veftiges
of Arfinoe (u). The Arabs colledl the fands

(t) Named the great, to dlftinguifh it from another
city of Hercules, in Lower Egypt, near Canopus.

(u) The ancient Crocodilopolis, wher^ the facred
crocodiles were kept. The Greeks, having conquered
Egypt, called it Arfinoe.

D d2

from

404 LETTERS

from thefe ruins* and . fift them* to find
ieals and medals. At fbme dldance an obe-
lifk refts on its pedeflal* the foie monument
which has braved the injuries of time, and
the ravages of barbarians* twenty-two feet in
circumference, at the bafe, and about fifty
high. Its fides abound in hieroglyphics, di-
vided into columns, and frequently defaced ;
its corners are broken, and the fine block of
granite of which it is formed is damaged to
about one half of its height. Strabo forfakes
us here, to deferibe the lake Moeris, not far
from Arfinoe* and the labyrinth on its bor-
ders ; he does not precifely mark the feite,
but Herodotus and Ptolemy do* and fix it on
the Libyan fide, near the, banks of the lake
(x). Let us. continue our route.

Quitting Fayoum, and proceeding weft-

ward, w’e crofs the grand canal Bahr You-

ieph, the river of Jofeph. In the village of

Nclle* lying to the left, are no traces of an-

Tiquity. After a journey of two hours, north-

weft* a fandy and fterile plain is found ; and,

prefen tly, mountains of ruins are difeovered,

nearly a league in extent. The firft heap
*

^Herodotus, lib. 2. Ptolemy* lib. 4.

the

ON EGYPT.

405

the Arabs call Balad Carcun, the village or
town of Caroun ; the fecond Cafr Caroun,
the palace of Caroun fyj. In the fpace be-
tween, enormous (lones are every where (bat-
tered ; but the nioft remarkable remains are
at the extremities. Amidft the ruins of Cafr
Carcun is a large building, (everal apartments
of w'hich frill are franding, and full of the
(hafts of columns ; round it is a portico, half
demoli(hed $ and frairs are found, by (bme
of which they afeended to the upper fto-
ries, and by others delcended to tho(e under
ground. The attention is particularly fixed
by feveral narrow, low, and very long cells,
which (eein to have had no other ufe than

(y) The Arab hifforians deferibe Caroun as a very
powerful man, and fay he could load feveral camels
with the keys of the apartments that contained his trea-
uires, from which unanimous aflertion we may colleA
a truth. In Egypt, perhaps, the ■'word Caroun figni-'
fied an employment with which the boatman was ho-
noured who ferried the bodies of the Kings ovet4b‘*.
lake Afoeris, to dcpolit them in the labyrinth of which
he was guardian, and, doubtlefs, the fame title apper-
tained to him who performed the fame ofEce for the inha-
bitants of ATemphis over that Ji;ke. Suppofing this
conjecture true, we (hall here nnd the origin of the
Grecian Charon, and the reafon of the Arabs calling
thefe ruins the palace of Caroun.

Pd3

that

4c6

LETTERS

that of containing the bodies of the facred
crocodiles, brought hither from Crocodilo-
poiis, where the prielcs kept, and the people
adored, them. Thefe remains, lying towards
Libya, a league from Birquet Caroun, for-
merly the lake Mceris, can only correfpond
W'ith the labyrinth, to which the ancients
aferibe this feite, and do not notice any city
fo fituated. Let us read the deicription of
this famous place, now, in part, covered by
fands, in Herodotus, that we may form a juR
idea of it.

** The twelve kings, faj elected by the

** Egyptians, built the labyrinth, on the

** bank of the lake Mceris, on the fame

** lide with the city of the procodiles, which

** appears to me to furpafs all that fame has

** faid. If we examine the conflrudlion of

** the walls, and the nature of the labour,

«

we ihall find it impofiible to efirimate the
** immenfe coR of this building. The tern-
^‘*ple of Ephefus is one of the wonders of

f%) Strabo, lib. 17. Herodotus, lib. 2. Ptolemy,
lib. 4. All agree in placing the labyrinth beyond the
city of Arflnoe, toward Libya, and on the bank of the
lake Moeris , which is the precife fituation of thefe ruins.
(a) Herodotus, lib. 2*

‘‘ the

ON EGYPT.

407

the world, as is that in the ifle of Samos.
Each pyramid, fingly, equals, in grandeur,
the numerous and great works of Greece;
“ yet tbefe, however magnificent, may not be
“ compared to the labyrinth (b), A roof of
«« vaft extent covers the twelve palaces ; en-
“ trance is found through twelve doors, fix
** facing the north and fix the fouth. They
are enclofed by a thick and extenfive wall :
“ the whole edifice confifis of two ftories,
“ the one above the other under ground,
** and each contains fifteen hundred apart-
** ments. I vifited the firfi, and relate what
** I have feen ; as to the fecond, the keepers
“ would not fuffer me to defcend, faying,
** the bodies of the kings, who built them,
“ and thofe of the facred • crocodiles were

I

“ there prefer ved ; of thefe, therefore, I
“ can only relate what I have been told.
** Human indufiry has difplayed all its pow-
** ers in the difiribution of the upper fiio-
“ ry. The porticos, the paflages, Trom

(h) RecolIciSt, Sir, a Greek is fpeaking who read his
hiilory at the Olympic games, where he was crowned
by the moll enlightened judges of his age.

Dd 4

•* halls

408 LETTERS

** halls to chambers, from chambers to ca-
** binets, from cabinets to terraces, and from
** terraces into other apartments, form wind*
** ings Co numerous, and fb different, I was
** never weary of admiring the art with
** which they had been conflrudled. Walls,
** roofs, all are of Rone; various figures,
artfully fculptured, are feen, here and there.
** Round the halls arc Rately columns,
** moflly of white marble. A pyramid, each
** of its fides two hundred and fifty feet in
width, and through which is the defcent
** to the fubterranean chambers, terminates
** the labyrinth.**

Such is the defcription of Herodotus, and
though that of Strabo (cj, who vifited the
fame place, many ages after him, does not
exadily accord, it ftiil confirms this account
in general } defcribes winding and various
pafiilges, and fo . artfully contrived it was
impofiible to enter any one of the palaces,
or kave it having entered, without a guide.
Strabo fays, magnificent columns furround*

ed the principal apartments j the walla

*

fej Lib. 17,

were

ON EGYPT.

409

were built with vaft ftones, and> on the top
pf the roof, an immenfe platform wa^ feen,
which ieemed a plain of rock, at beholding
which the mind was aftoniihed. It is true
he pretends the labyrinth contained twenty-
feven palaces, where the States of Egypt
aifembled, at certain periods, for the dif-
cuilion of affairs, mofl: important to govern-
ment, and religion ; but it is probable the
twelve, mentioned by Herodotus, were af-
terward divided into twenty-feven parts, or
that, in the interval of ages between thefe
two hiflorians, the edifice had been enlarged,
Diodorus Siculus, Pliny, and Pomponius
Mela deferibed, without having feen,, the
labyrinth, copying and embellifliing the two
hrfl authors, but gave no new information.
The founder of the labyrinth is unknown ;
each writer (d) names one or feveral, and

moftly

(d) Herodotus fays the labyrinth was'buiJt b^the^
twelve kings who governed Egypt, when Pfammetichus^
one of the twelve, poirelfed himfelf of fovereign power.
Strabo attributes its conftrudion to Ifmandes, whole
body, he fays, repofes in the pyramid, Handing at one
of its extremities. Pliny, that it was built by Petefucus
#r Tithoe, but, as hp pites contradidory authorities, he

but

410

LETTERS

moftly difTerenty which variety of opinions
indicates it was not the work of one but of
ieveral kings.

This monument, regarded by Pliny as the
moft aftoniihing effort of human genius, no
more is to be found, except amid the ruins
of Balad Caroun and Cafr Caroun. Here-
after, when Europe fhall have reflored to
Egypt the fciences it received thence, per-
haps, the fands and rubhifh which hide the
fubterranean part of the labyrinth will be
removed, and precious antiquities obtained.
Who can fav but the difeoveries of the learn-
ed were preferved in this afylum, equally
impenetrable to the natives and foreign-
ers ? If the dull of Herculaneum, an in-
confiderable city, has preferved fo many
rarities, and inflrudive remains of art and
hiilory, what may not be expeded from the
fifteen hundred ' apartments in which the
archives of Egypt were depofited, flnce the
governors afiembled here to treat on the mofl
important afiairs of religion and flate ? But

but augments incertitude. Diodorus fuppofes the iaby-
rinth is the work and the tomb of Mendes, Pomponius
Mela attributes it to Pfkmmetichus.

I mufl

ON EGYPT.

411

I mud not thus indulge in conje^ure : it is
time to fpeak of the lake Mmris, remains
of which may be here difcovered fuffici-
ently grand to hx the attention. Herodo-
tus fe) and Strabo (f) mark its fcite by de-
claring the labyrinth was on its banks, and
naming the cities that furrounded it. i^can-
thos, to the fouth, Aphroditopolis to the
caft, and Arfinoe on the north. Diodorus (g)
and Pliny (h) confirm thele authorities, by
placing it twenty-four leagues from Mem-
phis, between the province lb called, and
that of Arfinoe, which unanimity gives every
defirable certitude to truth. Had this lake,
however, totally difappeared, like the lake
Mareotis, doubts might be entertained, but,
in the very place theie hiftorians defcribe,
a lake is Ail! feen, called Birquet Caroun,
more than fifty leagues in circumference:
wherefore, unlefs we refiA convi(Aion, we
muA here acknowledge the remains of Mce-
ris. By referring to the ancients, andTcru-

(e) Lib. 2.

(f) Lib. 17.

{g) Lib. I.

(h) Lib. 5.

puloufly

412

LETTERS

pviloufly examining their teRimony» we may,
perhaps, obtain light on a topographical
queftion which has been greatly obfcured.

“ The labyrinth I have defcribed is ftill
“ lefs furprizing, fays Herodotus, than the
“ lake Mccris, which is 3600 lladia, or 60
“ fchoeni, in circumference, and equal to
“ the bale of Egypt, next the lea {'/J, ex-

tending

(i) Herodotus determines the fchoenos, in Lower
Egypt, at four milas, or a league and quarter } thus the
60 fchoeni make 75 leagues. Strabo and Diodorus ufe
other admeafurements in their eftimation, yet agree with
Herodotus, The bafe of Egypt, then, is determined at
75 leagues, and, being equal in circumference to the
lake Mceris, this circumference muft al fo be 75 leagues.
I am obliged to be thus circumftantial becaufe this paf«
fage has been productive of many error?', moft writers,
attending only to the Hrfl part of the period, in which
Herodotus makes the lake 3600 Aadia, and giving to
each fiadiiim its ufual value of about 100 fathoms, have
made the lake Mceris 150, and 180 leagues in circumfe-
rence j but whoever will examine the pafTage will find
flic 3600 fladia arc determined^ to be 60 fchceni, or 75
leagues, and, confcquently, the author eft i mates by
ftadia of 50 fathoms. 1 know not if this has been be-
fore obferved, but I know this paftage, ill interpreted,
has given birth to all the modern debates. Voltaire,
with the arm of ridicule, has combated the exiftence of a

lake

ON EGYPT.

4*3

** tending from the north to the fouth (ii)^
** and its greateft depth is three hundred
** feet. Two pyramids, built on an iiland,
near the middle, delcehd three hundred
** feet beneath the waters, and rife as much
“ above, which prove the lake to have been
** dug by man. Each of them has a co-
“ lo/Tal ftatue, at the top, feated on a throne :
** their total height is a iladium of fix hun>
“ dred feet (1). The lake occupies land
extremely iandy, and deprived of Iprings,
•• its waters being fupplied by the Nile,

lake of 180 leagues ; larger, fays he, than Egypt. Rol*
]in and BoiTuet, efpecially, have maintained its exiti*
cnce with heat. Several have diminilbed its extent,
making it fome ap leagues ; and d’Anville, deHrous of
conciliating all parties, has, in h'^ map of Egypt, cre-
ated a grand canal, and called it the lake Mceris. He
has been no more fortunate than the others. The form
and fituation of this pretended Moeris dire£lly coytradict
the moft rcfpcdlable authorities of hiftory.

(k) Its prefent greateO: extent is from caft to weft,
but, formerly, it might reach from Arfinoe to the csuiiff
by which it difeharged itfclf.

f/) Herodotus employs the ftadium in both thefe
pafTages, but having reduced it to 50 fathom, in the
firft, and reftored it to 100, in the fecond, it is neceftary
to remark the ftadium, here, is 600 feet.

<<

which

414

LETTERS

** which flows into it fix months in the
year ; thefe waters are returned to the river
** during the other fix months. In the firft
period, the iifhery daily produces a talent
“ of filvcr for the royal treafury, and twenty
** minae only in the fecond. The natives
** fay a canal is dug through tlie mountain
('mj which extends to, and commands,
** Memphis. This is a difcharge by which
•* thefuper-abundant waters are carried weft-
** ward, among the Libyan fands. 1 afked
** what had become of the earth dug from
** the lake; and was affured it had been
•* carried to the river, and wafhed by the
current into the fea.”

The relations of Strabo and Herodotus

mutually explain each other. “ The pro-

vince of Arfinoe f'nj contains the marvel-

** lous lake Moeris, which, for its extent,
«

** colour, and (bores, refembles a (ea. Deep
** as it is vaft, it receives, at the beginning
“ of*the inundation, the waters, left they
** (hould cover the fields and habitations of

1 have noted the fituation of this canal in the

map.

(n) Strabo, lib. 17.

men.

ON EGYPT.

4t5

** men, through a large canal. When the

Nile decreafes, thele waters are returned,

** by two other canals (thofe of Tamieh and
** Bouch) which, like the fir ft, water the
** lands : Iluices are formed, at the head of
** the canals, which are opened, at pleafure,

“ to admit or return the watert^.**
Though this paftage does not determine the
extent of the lake, it proves it to have been
very great. Diodorus Siculus follows Hero-
dotus, who allows it to have been 3600
ftadia, or feventy-five leagues, in circum-
ference. Pliny eftimates it at two hun-
dred and fifty thoufand paces, near eighty
leagues : thus the ancients agree on a point
ib much dilputed by the moderns, none of
whom give fufticient proofs ^of their opinion

(e) Diodorus Siculus pretends it coft 50 talents, or
£ 6250, to open thefe fluices : it is difficult to di/cover
what could occafion him to adopt this fable. Herodo-
tus and Strabo, who vilited and carefully-examine^thefe ,
places,' mention no fuch thing ; nor do Pliny and Pom-
ponius Mela, who, citing all the ancients had written
relative to the lakeMoeris, would not have omitted a fad
lb extraordinary. Its great improbability added to the
jfilence of hiftorians demonftrate the falii^ of this afier-
tion.

to

LETTERS

4*6

to make it univerfal. The lake, at prelent,
is only about fifty leagues in circumference ;
but this diminution does not prove Herodotus
and Pliny were deceived. After fo many
revolutions in Egypt, within thele two thou-
land years, it may have undergone greater
changes.

Examine the map. Sir, and you will per-
ceive the chain of mountains, on the left of the
Nile, continued almofi from the cataradis to
Fayoum, fuddenly departs toward Libya, and,
returning eafiward, forms an immenfe ba-
fon, though lower than the bed of the river.
This land was formerly covered by barren
fands, becaule the fiream, impeded by downs,
and rocks, could not water them. A king,
named Mceris, perfedly acquainted with the
difpofition of the lands, conceived one of the
nobleft projects that ever entered the mind
of man, which he had the glory to execute.
He relblved to change this defert into a ule-
Tul lake, and, when fwarms of men afiem-
bled had dug and cleared the foil/ in various
places, he cut a canal, forty leagues in length,
and three hundred feet wide, to introduce the
waters of the Nile. This grand canal, which

ON EGYPT.

417

is ftill entire* is ^nown by the name of Bahr
Youfeph* the river of Jofeph, it begins near
Xarout Eccherif* and ends at Birquet Ca*
roun, and mud: have cod immenfe fiims* be«
ing, in many parts, cut through the rock.
To relieve Egypt from the fuperiluous wa-
ters which, in thefe didant ages, remained too
long on the lands, then much lower than at
preient, and occafioned derility, was not fuf-
iicient. This great prince rendered them
ufeful to agriculture by cutting two other
canals, from the lake to the river, and dig.
ging near their mouths fluices which were
/hut during the increale of the Nile, when
the waters, entering through the canal of
Jofeph, colledited in the vad circumference
of the lake Mceris, 'where thpy were bound-
ed by mounds and mountains. When the
Nile decreaied thele fluices were opened, and
a body of water near eighty leagues in cir-
cumference, and thirty feet higher than the
ufual level of the river, (p) formed a feeond

inundation,

(P) The fource of the canal of Jofeph, being in the
Thebais, carried the waters of the Nile, when they be-
gan to increafe, to the lake Mceris, where being retain-

VoL. I. E e

LETTERS

418

inundation, directed at will: One part wa^
returned to the Nile, for the purpofe of na-
vigation, another, branched into innumerable
rivulets, watered the fields, and gave ferti-
lity even to fandy hills. This work, the
mofi: yaft and ufeful the earth ever contained,
united every advantage, and fupplied the de-
ficiencies of a low inundation, by retaining
water which would have ufelefsly been ex-
pended in the fca. It was ftill more highly
beneficial, when the increafe was too great, by
receiving that injurious fuperfluity which
would have prevented iced-time. Fearful
this artificial fea might break its bounds, and
occafion dreadful ravages, a canal was cut,
through the mountain, by which the fuper-
abundant waters were difcharged among the
Lyblan lands. Hiftory knows not a work fo
glorious, nor is it wonderful antiquity eileems
it ’above the pyramids and labyrinth; for
with the grandeur pf the enterprize it includ-

ed on one fide by mountains, and on the other by mounds
and Iluices, dug on the canals of Bouch and Tamieh,
they equalled the height of the inundation, that is to
fay, were nearly thirty feet higher than the ufual level
the river.

cd

ON EGYPT.

4*9

cd the happincfs of the people. Thus the
Egyptians, who detefted the kings by whom
they were forced to remove mountains that
pyramids might be raifed ; bleded the me-
mory of Mceris, and his name is everlafting.

This lake has nearly loft all its advantages j
the barbarians, in whofe hands Egypt has
remained for twelve centuries, havedeftroyed
or fuifered moft of its monuments to periih.
The lake Mareotis is dry, the canal of Alex-
andria no longer navigable, and Mceris is on-
ly" fifty leagues in circumference. Were the
canal of Jofeph cleanled, in which the mud
is very deep, the ancient mounds repaired,
and the fluices reftored ; this lake might
again ferve the fame purpofes, might prevent
the evils of a I’oo great, and fupply the de-
fedis of a too feeble, inundation ; might ex-
tend, as formerly, from Nefle and Arfinoe
to the Lybian mountains, and fhew the afto-
niftied traveller a fea which man had made.

I

Its depth, of three hundred feet, according
to the ancients, may be exaggerated, but
much lefs than it is fuppoied. Its bottom
is a bafon, formed by mountains, and is ve-
ry low } fince the Nile runs into it, through

E e 2 the

LETTERS

42®

the canal of Tamleh (q) i and though mud
has, for ages, colledled, it is ftill very deep.
Should thefe reafons prove infujfHcient to
make us adopt the opinion of the ancients,
they, at lend:, (hould induce us to fufpend
our judgment, and examine times and places,
before we call their writings fabulous.'

The pyramids Herodotus deferibes no
longer fubfift, and, apparently, did not in
the Auguftan age, lince Strabo does not men-
tion them. On the north of Birquet Carpua
we perceive a headland, which, doubtlefs,
was, formerly, an ifland that ends in a rock,
covered with ruins. This, perhaps, was the
bafe of thefe fepulchres, which having
two cololial ftatues, feated on thrones,
on their lummits, and riling out of a fea,
the waters mud have formed a light fuch as
the whole world could nowhere elfe afford.

4

1 do not give thefe conjeiftures as realities,
but, you will own. Sir, it was not more

(q) The reverfe happened, formerly; the fuperabun-
jdant waters were carried to ihe lake Moeris, by the ca-
nal of Jofeph, which w'as deeper, and which preferved
them by means of fiuices. They were afterwards re-
turned to the Nile, when low, through the canals of
Tan ieh and Bouch.

difhcult

ON EGYPT.

421

difficult to build pyramids in an ifland of the
lake Mceris, than thole which Hand near
Giza. But I forbear : I fear having been too
^ircumftantia] already, though I have thought
it abfolutely necelTary, while, among lb ma-
ny contradictions, I have endeavoured to diH
cover that truth, which you. Sir, and fuch
as you, paffionately love.

I have the honour to be, &c.

412

LETTERS

LETTER XXVIII.

On the produSiions of the province of Fayoum :
Its mantfaSiureSi arts, and inhabitants j its
fields i Jhaded by orange-groves ^ and cliifiering
rtfe trees; the fionvers of vobich^ difiilled,
yield excellent rofe-vcater. l"he abundant
fijhery of the lake and canals ^ and the nume-
rous ivatcr fciL'ls, ‘The capital city and its
government.

To M. L. M.

Grand Cairo.

H E preceding letter. Sir, affords dif-
cui3ion> only, to the mind, and ruins
to the eye. He who would tear away the
veil with which a fpace of three thoufand
years has covered thefe monuments mufl cx-
pe6t no better ; but 1 will now endeavour to
relieve you by an account of the prefent ftate
of Fayoum, hoping the fubje<^ will furnifh
pictures lefs barren. The mofl pleafant iea-
ion, here, is the approach of winter. The
mild and grateful winds, like thoieof France^
in the fineil days of ipring, are ilill more

pleahng.

ON EGYPT.

423

pleafing, fweet, and odoriferous. The ca«
nals are full to the brim, and the fields co-
vered with grafs, vegetables, and corn. The
beauties of nature every where abound, for
this province is one of the wealthiefl and mofl:
fruitful of Egypt. Strabo (r)^ eighteen cen-
turies ago, thus defcribed it. The pro-
** vince of Arhnoe furpaffes all others in beau-
** ty, riches, and the variety of its productions.

It, alone, produces the moft perfeQ: olives,
** and from which the Egyptians might make
“ excellent oil, were they lefs negligent, for
•* the olive is no where elfe found in Egypt,
** if we except thofe reared in the gardens of
“ Alexandria, the fruit of which is not pro-
** per to make, oil (s). It abounds in wines,
“ corn, vegetables, and feads of all kinds.*^
Could this hiftorian return to Fayoum he
would find it prodigiou^ changed ; the la-
byrinth deftroycd, marflles, where palaces

(r) Lib. 17.

(s) Since the canal of Alexandria has become dry, nine
months in the year, thefe gardens, with their olive and ail
their other trees, have difappearcd. I faw fome in the
orchards near Rofetta ; they were very large, and the
olives they yielded bigger than thoie of the ifle of Crete,
or Provence, from which, I am perfuaded, excellent oil
might be made.

E e 4

were 3

424 LETTERS

were ; mud-wall villages, where cities flou-
rished; canals almofl dry, and Mceris reduced
to two-thirds of .its former extent: but he
would recolledt the fame produdtions and the
fame abundance, wherever the waters can
penetrate. The Copts ftill cultivate the olive
and the vine their forefathers planted, flill
gather excellent grapes, of which they make
a moft agreeable white wine (t ), The whole
country is now covered with wheat, barley,
and dourra, which rife, in fucccfHon, uninter-
ruptedly, for Seven or eight months. The
tall dax, the fugar-cane, and vegetables of all
kinds, fproiit up, almofl; without culture ; cu-
cumbers, and near twenty Species of melons,
melting, fwcet, and moSl healthy, adorn the
banks of the rivulets ; cluSlering fruit trees,
among which are the date, the fig, the bana-
na, the cafija, an? the thorny nabc, which
produces a finall tartiSh pear, are Scattered

(t) 'Cnder the Ptolemies, and the Romans, the envi-
rons of Alexandria and the Scbennitic province pro-
duced very famous wines, but the Mahometans have
deilroyed the vine plants. They have left none, ex-
cept in the province of Fayoum. The grapes, in ge-
neral, which grow in the fandy grounds of Egypt are
®f a;! exquisite flavour.

over

ON EGYPT.

i»S

over the plain. Amid this diverfity of trees
and plants, foreAs of the role buAi grow near
villages. In other provinces this Ane Airub
only ornaments gardens, here it is cultivated,
and the role water, diAilled from its odori-
ferous Aower, forms an extenAve branch of
commerce. Fayoum fupplies all Egypt, and
the confumption is very great. It is abun-
dantly fprinkled on the face and hands of
perfons who viAt (uj. The women waAi
their bodies with it at the bath, and never
drefs themfelves without rofe water. Thefe
cIuAers of rofe buAies, fometimes furround-
cd by the orange tree in Aower, produce a
charming eAedt on the Aght, and a Aill more
charming one by, their fmell. The whole
atmolphere is impregnated, and the pleafure
of breathing the perfumes of the rofe, min-
gled with the fweet emanations of orange
Aowers, is here exquifite.

To this wealth of fertility Fayoum adds
that of the AAiery. The canals and lake
fwarm with AAi, which are caught in prodi-
gious quantities, and eat in the province, or

fuj The rofe-water cf Fayoum has a delicious odour,
which it long preferves : the heft is fold at three fhil-
lings and four pence a bottle.

carried

LETTERS

426

carried to the neighbouring cities, and are as
cheap as at Damietta. A medin C^) will
purchaie enough to fuffice a man for a
day. W^hen the froft and fnow of winter
is felt in the northern countries, innumerable
flocks of birds relbrt to the lake Mceris, and
the canals of Fayoum. The people catch
abundance of geefe with golden plumage and
a mofl agreeable flavour, fat and delicate ;
ducks, teal, fwans, the fkins of which are
u£ed like furs, and pelicans, remarkable for
their large beaks, in the form of a Ipatula.
Thefe latter, the kings of aquatic birds, fail
on the furface of the lake, in numerous fa-
milies, while the whitcnels of their plumage
forms a charming contrail, with the deep
azure of the waters. Modern Egyptians pre-
ferve fome remains of that ancient venera-
tion in which the ibis, crane, and ftork, were
held ; forbear to net for them, and thefe
birds, confiding in the clemency of man, are
almofl tame.

What pleafure Ihould I feel could I deferibe
a happy people, amid all this abundance !
but, alas ! a monllrous government and anar-

(acj K copper coin, plaud, worth five farthings.

ON EGYPT.

427

chy, the enemy of order^ and of laws, ex-
tinguishes genius, and, like a peftilential wind,
depopulates cities, and devours the country
and its inhabitants. Men, who, in a climate
fo pure, and on a Soil So fruitful, would poS^
feSs mild and gentle manners, and enjoy the
treafures of prodigal nature, and thoSe bene»
fits the arts produce, become barbarous, fu-
perSlitious, and miserable, under the yoke of
thofe infatiable tyrants who fatten on their
fubSlance. Agriculture languishes, and the
fands of Lybia yearly encroach upon its do-
mains } the fine provinces of Heracleotis and
ArSinoe arc reduced to a third of their former
extent, if we only include the prodiidtive
lands. Were the canals and mounds repair-
ed, they would recover their' ancient limits,
and fiouriSh as formerly. The climate, the
earth, the waters, are the Same ; men -and
laws only arc changed.

The cities of the crocodiles, of Herc^ules,
and Ptolemais, are replaced by that of Fay-
oum, which retained a certain degree of
grandeur, in the time of Abulfeda. Fay-
** oum, capital of the province So called, con-
tains public baths, markets, and colleges,
** which are under the direction of the Sha-

“ feites.

428 LETTERS

** feites, and Mclchites (y). It is divided by
** the canal of Jolcph, and fiirrounded by
gardens.” fz) Fayoum, at prefent, is on-
ly iMilf a league in circumference, and ftands
on the eaflern fhore of the canal. The
remainder is dellroyed, and the colleges are
no more. Houles, built of fun-dried bricks,
prefent a gloomy ailemblage of huts ; their
inhabitants are poor, and deprived of energy,
their arts are reduced to fome manufadbories
of mats, coarfe carpets, and the diibillation
of rofe water. The town is governed by a
cachef, under one of the Beys of Grand Cai-
ro. Several Arab Sheiks, who have lands in
the neighbourhood, compofe the council, and
go to the divan, twice orthr.ee times a week,
as fummoncd by the governor ; their chief is
held in great relpedl, but the members of
adminillration cannot long enjoy concord ;
the continual wars, at Grand Cairo, diilurb
the tranquillity of the provinces, and the pof-
fedbfs of lands and governments are expel-
led by the vidborious fadbion. The plunder-
ed Arabs unite themlelves to the Bedouins,

^yj Two Mahometan (eels.

(zj Abulfeda, Defeription of Egypt.

who.

ON EGYPT.

429

who, always, are ready to favour malecon-
tcnts, in hopes of pillage, and who dsfcend,
like torrents, from the mountains, and defo-
late the plains ; nor do the undiiciplined
troops fent again!): them occalion lefs dif-
order, and the hufbandman is equally rob-
bed by his enemies and defenders. When
the Arabs are repulfed, they bury themfelves
in the delerts, loaded with Ipoil, where their
hatred againft the Turks ferments with the
fun’s heat, and, when they feel themfelves
fufficiently ftrong, they return to commit new
ravages. Such is the fate of Egypt, fuch
the evils of defpotifm.

Permit me. Sir, to finiHi this letter by an ex-
tract from Strabo, w’hich proves to what degree
the care taken of the mcit craiel animals may
triumph over • their feroci ty. ** The people

" who inhabit the prefecline of Arfinoe revere
“ and regard the crocodile" as facred. The
“ priefts pi cferve one in a lake, for that pur-
pofc, and name it Souchos f feeding

(e?) This word comes from the Greek. The Egyptian
name of tlie crocodile appears to have been Cliamfah,
which -Herodotus calls it, or pcriiars Thamfah as called
i>v the Arabs.

it

430

LETTERS

“ it with bread, meat, and wine, in prefencc
•* of grangers, whom a fight like this fails

not to attract. Our hofi, one of the re-
“ Ipedlable perfons who fliewed us the la-

cred things, condu6ted us, after dinner, to
“ the lake, taking with him fq^all cakes,
“ roafi: meat, and a vefiel filled with wine.
“ The crocodile repofed on the bank. The
“ priefts approached : one of them opened
“ his jaws, another put in the ciikcs, meat,
“ and wine ; after which repafi: the monfter
** defccnded, peaceably, into the water, and
** fwam towards the other fide.”

The Egyptians honoured the crocodile, be-
caufe it was coniecrated to Typhon, the evil
genius, whofe fury they dreaded j and ima-
gined they mi^ht calm his wrath, and avoid
the calanaities he inflidled on them, by rever-
ing an animal that was the iymbol of himfelf.
The eagernefs with which the inhabitants of
Celebes, at prefent, feek this monficr, the
name of Sudara or brother, they give

(b) Mr. (now Sir Jofeph) Banks relates fome cu-
rious fai£ts concerning the veneration the people of Cele-
bes have for the crocodile. Hawkefworth’s Voyages,
vol. iii. page 756.

ON EGYPT.

431

him, and the food they carry him, fhould
alfo have fbme foundation in the ancient re-
ligion of their country.

1 have the honour to be, &c.

LET

43 *

LETTERS

LETTER XXIX.

’Journey in the defert, to'uiard the Red Sen*
*Tbe country* mountains* and funds* necejfary
to crofs* to arrive at the mona/iery tf St.
jintkony. Obfervations on the plants* ani-^
mals* quarries of various marble and jiints*
found in the defert. Manner in which the
monks (f St, jinihony and St. Paul live,
fhe profpeSis from the fummit of mount
Colzoum: refictiions on the great occur-
rences that have paffed there.

To M. L. M.

CJrand Cairo.

I-rfET »s c6ntin’je oar roate. Sir. Return-
ing to the Nile, by the canal of Bouch, wc
leave Maydoum behind us, where is the mofl
fouthern pyramid of Egypt, fcvcral hills,
with* hamlets, and the ruins of Aphrodito-
polis, which Acod on the eaAern (hore,
where Atfih nov/ ftands. . The canal we have
left emptied itfelf into the river, formerly,
during fix months in the year. At prefc-nt
it runs, continually, to the lake Ma;ris,

which

ON EGYPT.

433

which no longer receives fufficient waters,
through the canal of Jofeph, lialf choaked
up, •to return them to the Nile,

There is nothing remarkable in Bouch ^
the houfes arc of brick, and the roofs ia
the form of a dovc-houie, where the pi-
geons refidc, while the Egyptians live be-
low. This cuftom is obferved throughout
the Thebais : the houfes look tolerably, at
a diftance, but the abodes of mifery in tlie
midH: of abundance arc every where found
on entering.

The chain of mountains, eaft of the river,
approach very near, for feveral leagues, and
leave only a fmall extent of country, fit for
tillage. This long flip of land, at the foot
of Aerilc rocks, is diverfified Jby villages, fur-
rounded by groves, corn, vegetables, and
fruit trees. Nature is decked in all her fplen-
dor, at the very gates of the deiert. Jour-
neying upward, wefl of the Nile, we per-
ceive Benilbuef, a town half a league in cir-
cumference, and whofe inofqucs and high
minarets, feen tlirough the foliage of trees*
prelcnt an agreeable profpe«^l:. Its other edifices
gae-lnerc mud-wall huts, or of brick, built
without elegance, or tafte. The induflry of
VoL. I, F f its

LETTERS

43 +

its inhabitants is wholly confined to the
manufafturing of coarfe carpets, and their
commerce to the productions of their «foi].
Beniibuef is the refidcnce of a Bey, who, like
the other governors of Egypt, collects arbi-
trary taxes, fword in hand, encamping with
his foldicrs near the villages under his govern-
ment, fevcral months of the year. Having
robbed the labourer of his hire, and torn the
fruits of his indiiflry from him, by fear or
violence, he proceeds to another part, to raife
like contributions. 1 cannot make you con-
ceive all the opprefllons of thefe tyrants ;
the troops they command arc only compofed
of outlaws, baniflied their country, by their
crimes, in whole hearts every feeling of na-
ture and piiy is c.vtinCt. ^Of tliis a lingic
trait, which the Comte d’Antragues, who

has lately quitted this country, was a witnefs
«

of, may m*v.c vou fome idea. One of the
collectors entered the hut of a poor woman,
whoiiad feveral children, anil demanded the
tax impofed by the Bey. She pleaded her
poverty, aiid told him Ihe poflefled only a
mat, and fome earthen pots. He learched
every where, and, finding a fack of rice,
prepared to carry it off. She conjured him *

to

ON EGYPT.

43S

to leave it, protefting it was her whole fub-
liftence, afking if he would have her, the
child ^e fuckled, and all her family, perilh
with hunger. The barbarian, unmoved by
words or tears, took the fack of rice, and the
wretched mother, driven to defpair, fnatched
the child from her bofom, and dalhcd it with
force againfl the ground, exclaiming, Tliou,
monfter, fhalt be anfwerable for his blood !
After this horrid action, her tears fuddenly
flopped, and fhe flood motlonlefs^ like a fla-
tue, w'hile the hardened wretch of a fbldier
without feeming to be afFedled, went off with
his prey. Such is the fate of the people
of Egypt.

Oppofitc Benifouef is the village of Bayad,
partly inhabited by Copts, through which is
the road to the monafleries of St. Anthony and
St. Paul, fituated on mount Coizoum. J will
give you a (ketch of thefe wild places, which
deferve the attention of natural ills, and like-
wife of the defcTts which lie between the
Nile and the Red Sea.

Two leagues north of Bayad is a narrow
vallev^ formed by Gibel Gcbey, the mount of
cihern, and Hajar Moudbun, the marked
done, which leads to a (andy plain, called

F f 2 Elbakara,

436 LETTERS

Elbakara, the cow. On its caftcrn extre-
mity is the mount Kaleil, or the well be-
loved s its extent, which is all barren fand,
is leven or eight leagues in width, and much
more from north to fouth. In the hollows
of the rocks, and behde where the winter
torrents pafs, is a little verdure, produced by
the Acacia, whence gum arabic is obtained,
the fena, the fcorpion wood, the twiAed root
of which is famous for curing the bite of
this infedt, and fome other plants. The of-
trich, the chamois, the gazella, and the tiger,
which makes continual war on the other;.,
dwell among ihcfc caverns, and bound acrofs
the fands, where they fcarccly can find a
blade of grafs. Here arc flints of various
colours, red, grey, black, blue, and all ex-
tremely fine in the grain. Their upper fur-
facc is indented and rough; that next the
fand,* fmooth and bright. The naturalifl
would, no doubt, find, among the clifl's, and
the beds of torrents, precious floncs, parti-
cularly emeralds, formerly common in Egypt.
At the foot of mount Kalcil we find fprings
of brack! Ih water, furrounded by fome few
date-trees, which thirfl: renders drinkable,^
neither wild bcaft nor man being able to obtain

other.

ON EGYPT.

437

Other. Above are the grots of the hermits,
whom the zeal of the firft ages of chridianity
had brought to this fearful wildernefs. After
climbing Kaleil, \vc defeend into the plain
of Elaraba, or carts, as barren and burning as
the firft. Its furface is parched find, and
fcorching rocks furround it. It is crofted by
fome winter torrents, and, though the fun
devours vegetable fubftanccs, and robs plants
and trees of life, it ripens ftones, the moft
rare, on the fides of the mountains. North
of tills plain arc three marble quarries, red,
white, and black : blocks, half cut in the
rock, and otlicrs, difperfed about, befpeak
the labour of men. The Pharoahs hence
obtained thole .hard polifhed ftones with
which tliey coated their canals, and magni-
ficent fcpulchres, carting tliem to the Nile,
and bringing tliem, afterward, on rafts, to the
foot of the pyramids fcj. South of thefe is

j Hcrodotii!:, Diodorus, n«'J Pliny fay, the inarbks,
witli which th- pyramids wc:c coated and the canals
made, '.'umc from the mountains of Arabia ; but, as the
• ai'icrn part oS Kgypt, between the Nile and the Red Sea,
was cullyd Arabia, there is rcafon to believe the quarries
hc^.-.nentioned fupplied thefe line llones. The plain
was named iilarabu, bccaufe of the numerous cans cm-
plo) cd to traufport; thefe enormous mafies.

Ff '5

another

43^ LETTERS

another quarry, of fine granite, which has
been exceedingly hewn ; a refervoir of wa-
ter, dug at a fmali diflance, fupplied the
workmen. Hermit’s grots lie beyond, nor
could the whole world have fupplied a place
more wild, or firthcr from all human inter-
courfe. Having afeended part of mount Col-
zoum, we arrive at the monaftery of St.
Anthony, which has no door : the monks
draw travellers up through the window, by a
pulley. This is a neceflary precaution againfl:
the Arabs. It is furrounded by a high thick
wall, a quarter of a league in circumference,
encloling a large garden, where various fruit
trees are cultivated, the cells of the monks,
end a fmaJl church where divine iervice is

t

performed. A, canal receives the flrcams of
the mountains, and conducts them into the
monallcry ; thefe, though fbmewhat briny,
fupply the neceOities of life, and water the
vegetables and fruits. The rules of thefe
religious Copts are very auilere, and their
abilincnce rigid, for they drink wine only on
the four grand annual feflivals. Their food
is pafle, mixed with the oil of fefama, fait
fiih, honey, and the produdlions of their gw-
dcn. Their dodlrine has been corrupted by

fchilm.

ON EGYPT. 43^

ichirm> and their obdinacy in the errors of
Monothelifm is extreme ; yet they believe
they podefs abfolute power over daemons*
ferpents* and wild beads. When Father
Sicard vifited them, their fuperior was in
fcarch of the philod>pher*s done. While
living in condant I'clf-denial of every focial
pleafure he was in fearch of gold. Thefe
monks highly venerate the grotto of St. An«
thony* an obfeure retreat* dug in the moun-'
tain, where this father of monadic inditu-
tlons lived, as in a tomb, furrounded by dark-
nefs and defer ts. A high craggy rock, a
league in diameter, feperates this convent
from that of St. Paul, the impodibility of
climbing which obliges them to go round
the mountain, which is twp days journey.
This latter monadcry, built on the ead lide
of mount Colzoum, is like wile inhabited by
Copts, as poor, pious, and ignorant, as the
former.

Seated on mount Colzoum, the Red Sea
lies beneath our feet, near the end of which,
far otf, may be difeovered that part where the
leader^of the Idaelites, probably, paded with
hi-G- whole people through the fuijpcnded
wares. To the fbuth-ead are the famous

Ff 4

mounts

LETTERS

4iO

mounts Horeb and Sinai, where he received tlie
tables of the ten commandments. The very
alpcd; of thefe places incites (erious contempla-
tion ; we behold around us the country in
which the mod predominant of all religions
firll took birth. The Egyptian is pad, but
not the Jewiih, notwithdanding the oppro-
brium cad upon this reproved nation. The
Chridian and Mahometan extend over the
earth. How fruitful in wonders have been
the furrounding country, the mountains, and
the fea ! Hidory is full of them, and the
barbarians of thefe nations dill preferve their
memory.

Let us defeend Colzoum, and approach
the Red Sea. Its (horcs are covered
with innumerable liiclls, the form, co-
lours, and beauty of which fuccefiively fix
the attention, and choice is embarrafled by
variety. The. rock-s arc variegated bv marine
plants, the waters abound in corals, fomc
white, "Others red as Icarlet. To thefe cu-
rious objedts add the marbles of the moun-
tains, the precious mines they contain, the
plants which fpring bclide the torrentsj^ the
rare tlints of the fands, and you will allo^,
bir, thefe arc things that well dclcrvc the

atlcntioH

ON EGYPT.

attention of the naturalift. True it is, know-
ledge muft be purchafcd by Co many fatigues
and perils, it is neceflary to be lb long ex-
pofcd to the plundering Arabs, and the
fcorching heats of the fun, that it is not
furprizing no learned man has hitherto dared
to learch theie deferts. Let us leave them.
Sir, and return to the Nile, whole banks are
tnoll delicious after fuch a journey.

I have the honour to be,

let-

44a

letters

LETTER XXX.

*Xbe route from Bayad to Acbmounain, Towns
and tillages on each fde the river de^
feribedf with their various afpeSls and go-
vernment ; the two branches of tie grand
canal, Bahr Youfeph: facrijice to the fun
fculptured cn a rock, near Babain : reflexions
cn the ftthjcX : remarks on the principality of
Mahiotii, deperidcTit on Mecca, and the Jiately
portico of Acbmounainrn The adventure (f
Father Sicard,

To M. L. M.

I

Grand C..irf>.

TP PIR northern brcc2:c invites us to conti-
nue our journey. Oi\c of the advantages of
the fituutioii of Egypt is that of enjoying this
falutary wind, more than nine months or
the year j belide tempering the excellive
heats, diilipaling deftrudtive vapours, and
bearing the clouds into Abydinia, w|iicb,
falling in rain, annually produce the inun-
dation, it like wife impels boats again A; the

rapid

ON EGYPT.

443

rapid current. Profit we by its favourable
breath, and proceed towards the Upper The-
bais. Seated on the deck, and borne on
waters, whofc furface is as high as the banks,
we overlook the lurrounding lands, and every
moment have new prolpedts. The lijinarets
of Benifouef are loft in the horizon : other
villages feem to approach. Here Bcrangiali
half conceals itfclf under the datc-trcc (hades j
yonder Abou Ennour rifes, at the foot of
the mountain ; farther Hill is Baibai, where
the Copts prefer ve the relicts of St. George,
embcllidied by the rich harvefis around it ;
for of itfclf it prefents nothing but huts, and
a fmall mofqut . The beginning of Gibe!
Etteir, the mount of birds f J), is leen to
the eaft ; it takes its name from the multi-
tude of kites, hawks, eagles, pharoah fowl,
and cormorants, which here colle<^, and
hence dart upon their prey. Doves, and fmall
birds, people the woods, which* are at the
foot of the rocks ; flocks of the ibis, crane,
fwan, and ftork, refort to the banks of the

(dy Birds of prey are very numerous and various in
Egypt, becaufc they are not deitroyed and find tood in
abundance. Small birds are more uncommon.

Nile,’

LETTERS

44 +

Nile, which they cover, during winter :
flights of pigeons obfeure the air, more nu-
xncrmis in Egypt than in any other country
of the globe, where hamlets and towns are
vaft pigeon houfes, and where their dung is
collcdled, with extreme care, to manure the
beds of melons.

Weft of the river is Fcchnai, named Fen-
chi in the times of Greece : a large ifland op-
pofttc raifes its verdant head above the wa-
ters, in part covered by various vegetables,
cucumbers, and excellent melons. Not far
diftant is Abou Girga, where the Copts have
a convent. Sherouna extends along the
foot of the mount of birds. That coaft is
inhabited by independent Ar;ib?, who pil-
lage the boats they- can lurprizc ; and, when
troops ar ; lent againit them, conceal them-
Iclvts in the deferts, tiie well fprings of
whicii they know, and wliere the Turks dare
not follow them. The ftorm over, they re-
turn, armed, and feize their poilcilions. Tra-
vellers ftiould always be on their guard, keep
centincl, and, during night, occafionally fire
their guns, nor fuFfer any boat to come 'iiear
theirs, othcrvvil'c they rilk being robbed and
jmaiTacred.

The

ON EGYPT.

445 '

The eye naturally turns from the ftcrilc
rocks, on the caft, to views of fruitful fields,
on the weft, wliere the land is cultivated to
the very brink of the river. In the ifle of
Sohra, is a hamlet, the feite of which is
eharming, encircled by trees, corn heJds,
verdure, and water. What delightful abodes
might a poliihed nation form in the ifles of
the Nile ! The exotics of all hot countries
might here be airemblcd j orange groves,
myrtles, pomegranates, and role-trccs plant-
ed ; the Arabian jafmin, odoriferous fhrubs,
and American magnolia would thrive here,
wondfcifulh*; the banana, the orange, the
del icious pine-apple, and every fruit moft
excellent, would reward their labours. Sur-
rounded by the prodigal wealth o; Nature,
cmbclliilicd by art, their days would glide
happily away, beneath theil* enchanted fliades
and bowers. Tlieie, Sir, are but vague
wifhes, waited in the wide and Icnlelefs air,
yet indulge me in the fweet conlolation of
imagining they tliall foniclimc be realized.

\Vc approach the port of Miniah, a tole-
rable novvn, pleafant, populous, and com-
mercial, where a Cachet relides, a tudoni-
houfe is cftablillied, and at which the boats

coming

LETTERS

44S

comliig from the Said are obliged to flop,
and pay duties, according to the merchan-
dize they contain. Here are broken co-
lumns, and remains of ancient edifices, which
we have reafon to fuppofb were thofe of Cy-
nopolis (the city of dogs) placed by Strabo
and Ptolemy above Fenchi. Its inhabitants
held dogs in great veneration, and the priefls
fed them with facred viands, in honour of
Annubis, the companion and guardian of
Ofiris. Strabo (f) marks the feite of Oxy-
rinchus, inland, at fbme diflance from Cy-
xiopolis : fcattered marbles and heaps of rub-
bifh, round Behncfa, on the canal of Jofeph,
determine the pofition of that ancient city
(g}f where the filli the Greeks called Oxy-
rinebus was held facred. The long plain
which extends from the Nile to Bahr You-
feph js very beautiful j wheat, barley, flax,
and beans grow, abundantly, in fields watered
by rivulets : the dourra and fugar-cane here
rife to* a great height j the plants are all vi-

if) 17.

(g) Pococtee places Oxyrinchus •where Girja now
ilantls, which feems to me inaccurate i for Strabo poft-
tivcly fays Oxyrinchus was not on the banks of the
Nile, but inland.

goro us.

ON EGYPT.

W

gorouSf and full of fap ; the trees all loaded
with fruit, the picture of abundance incef-
fantly delights the eye : but, alas ! it is in-
jured, disfigured by the afpeft of the huf-
bandman in rags, and the mud huts in which
he mournfully refts, after watering the rich
fields with the fweat of his brow, whole
produce he mull: not enjoy : fo true it is
that wife laws make nations more happy than
all the treafures of nature.

Oppofite Miniah is the village of Gerabia,
and, farther up, that of Saouadi. Here the
grottos of the Thebais begin, famous for the
auftcrity of* the anchorets who retired hither
during the primitive ages of chriilJanity.
They extend for twenty leagues, as far as
facing Manfclout, and vverp quairicu dug by
the Egyptians. The hieroglyphics found in
them atted: their antiquity.

»

Above Saouadi begins a forell of dates,
which reaches as far as tlie river. Near this
is the ille of Sohra, and villages ccnitiiiue,
at fmall intervals, which ^ by their number,
variety of alpe(!t, and numerous inhabitants,
diverdfy and enliven the views. Near Rodda
is the mouth of one of tlic branches of Cahr
Youfeph, the other is higher, at the village

of

Tj E T T E R S

44 ®

of Tarout Ecchcrif. Norden notices only the
firfl:, and Father Sicard the fecond* but they
both remain. Dcfcending the canal of
Rodda, the banks of which are charming,
we enter the grand bed of Bahr Youfeph, on
the banks of which is the village Aboulir.
A league to the fouth arc the ruins of an an-
cient city, which enrich Jie imall town of
Babain. Some di fiance beyond is a curious
monument 5 a rock finoothed by the chiffck
in the body of which a grotto has been cut,
fifty feet in diameter, and lix deep. The bot*
tom repre rents a facrificc to the fun, which
is fculptured in demi-relicf. Oh the right,
two priefts, with pointed caps, raile their
arms toward him, and toi|ch the end of
his rays with their fingers; behind them
two chil iren, w'ith like caps, hold cups for
the libation. Three wood>piles, fuflained by
(even vafes, with handles, and placed under
the fun, bear flain lambs. On the left are
two young maidens, who are only attached
to the (lone by the feet and back. The
Arabs have broken off the heads, and dif-
figured them with their lances. 'Wrious
hieroglyphics give, no doubt, the biftory of
this facrifice, which 1 believe is meant to

Jupiter

ON EGYPT.

449

Jupiter Ammon, a Tymbolica] deity, by
which the ancient Egyptians denoted the
Sun's entrance into the figri of the ram.
This animal was confecratcd to him, and
they then celebrated the commencement of
the ailronomiciil year, and renewal of
light. The monument I hav - deferibed,
c: tin hard Hione, cannot but eiuinre to the
por-.t-rity.

v B ihain is Tounr fhj betwecii which
vilj . and that of Aboullr the continuance
of the remains of an ancient brick aq«;cducK
by which the w were convrved to the
foot of the mountains, may he truced. Coaft-
ing Eahr Youfeph, we coins rr; Tarout
Eccherif, yhcre is the principal mouth of
this grand canal. Melaoui ^is thre^. leagues
farther to the north, a picafant tov,'n, fttuated
in a fertile plain, where there is a confiderable
market. Providons of all kinds are here
found in abundance, and exceedingly cheap.
The furrounding villages compofc a*fmaU
principality, which was formerly bedowed
on Mecca. The Emir Hadge, or prince of

(h) Called, by Strabo, the Upper Tunis j near which
he marks the courfe of the great canal. It contains the
ruins of a temple of the Sun.

VoL. I. ^ ©

the

450 LETTERS

the Caravan, has a right to fend a Sardar ^i)
here, as governor ; and he returns, to Grand
Cairo, large tributes in grain, which he collects
from the inhabitants, and which the Emir
Hadge carries to the Scherif of Mecca. Four
miles north of Melaoui is Achmounain, re-
markable for its magnificent ruins. Among
the hills of rubbifh that furround it is a {lately
portico, little injured by time, a hundred
feet long, twenty-five wide, and fupported
by twelve columns, the capital of which is
only a finall cord. Each is compofed of
three blocks of granite, forming together
fixty feet in height, and twenty four in cir-
cumference. The block next the bale is
merely rounded, and loaded with hierogly-
phics, the line of which begins by a'pyramid ;
the two others are fluted. The columns are
ten feet diflant, except the two in the center,
which, forming the entrance, have an interval
of fifteen feet. Ten enormous (lones cover
the portico, in its whole extent, and thefe
are furmounted by a double row ; the two
in the centre, which rife with a triangular

(i) Sardar figniflcs governor, and general, uniting
civil arid military power.

front.

ON EGYPT.

4SX

front* furpals the others in grandeur and
thicknefs. The fpedlator is aftoniihed at
beholding ilones* or rather rocks* fo pon-
derous* railed iixty feet high by the art of
man. The furrounding frieze abounds with
hieroglyphics* well Iculptured* containing
figures of birds* infedts* various animals*
and men feated* to whom others feem to
prefent offerings. This* probably* is the
hiflory of the time* place* and god in whole
honour this monument was ere6tcd. The
portico was painted red and blue* which
colours are effaced in many places* but the
bottom of the architrave, round the colon-
nade* has preferved a gold colour furprizingly
bright. The ceiling* alfb* contains flars of
gold fparkling in an a2ure fky, with a
dazzling brilliancy. This monument, railed
before the Perfian conquefl* has neither the
elegance nor purity of Grecian’ architedture ;
but its indeflrudtible foHdity* venerable fim-
plicity* and majelly, extort admiration. What
mull the temple* or the palace* have been
to which this was the entrance ! 1 confefs*
Sir* lurprize is wonderfully excited at be-
holding* amid the Turkifh and Arab huts*
edifices which feem the works of Genii.

G g 2 Their

45* letters

Their age increaies their value. Efcaped
the ravages of deftrudive conquerors^ and
bearing the inapreiiion o€ ages and ages» they
io/pire the contemplating traveller with
awe. Modem Egyptians view thefe fub-
lime remains of antiquity with indiiierence«
and fudfer them to fubfift bmufe to de-
tlroy them would be too much trouble.
Superftition and ignorance believe th^ en-
cloie treafures ; wherefore* ilrangers are not
permitted to take a faithful drawing : this
would expole them to the lofs of life* as
what happened to Father Sicard proves.
-While he Rood admiring the beauty of this
portico* ** Do not kindle thy cenler* faid the
** Arab* his guide* gravely, to him* left
** we Ihould be tkken in the fad* and ft>me
misfortune ihould follow. — What doft
** thou mean ? I have neither cenler* nor
** fire* nor inceiife. — That is a joke : a
** ftranger* like thee* doth not come hither
purely out of curiofity.— Why not ?—
** I know thy foience informs thee in what
place the great coffor is concealed* full of
** the gold our forefathers have left us* and
** Ihould thy cenler be i<%n* they would
** preiently think thou cameft hither to open

** our

ON EGYPT.

•453

«« our coffer, by virtue of thy magic words,
«* and carry off our treafure.”

Such, Sir, is the general opinion of mo-
dern Egyptians concerning Europeans, whom
they think magicians, and imagine that,
when taking the dimenfions only of their
antiquities, they will be enabled to carry off
their treafures $ nor will they fuffer them to
write, or draw, peaceably, but impede them
all they can.

I have the honour to be, &c.

454

LETTERS

LETTER XXXI.

7he country from Acbmounain to Acbmhn,
Enfinat formerly Antinoe ; its extent , re^
mains of columns^ and gates, of beautiful
arcbite^ure ; not comparable to tbe portico
of Acbmounam, ^be principal towns on
tbe banks of tbe Nile, with their ancient and
modern pqfition. Achmim, formerfy Cbem^
mis, or PanopoRs, Remains of an antique
temple which fulfyied in tbe age of Abulfedom
On tbe Serpent Haridi, with which tbe
Mahometan priejis delu^ tbe pebple.

To M. L. M.

t

Grand Cairo.

Let US quit the portico of Achmou*
nain» And crofs the Nile, to vifit the re-
mains of Antinoe, thus deferibed by Abul-
feda, ** Enfina (the Arabic name) Handing
** toward the middle of the Said, EaH of the
** Nile, and oppofite to Achmounain, con-
** tains remarkable ruins of ancient i^onu-
** ments.’* — *• This ancient city (adds the
“ geographer of Nubia) furrounded by well

culti-

ON EGYPT.

ASS

“ cultIvaM fields, abundant in fruits and
** grain, is vulgarly called the city of the
** magi f/y, becaufe Pharoah fent hither for
** them, to come to his court.** 1 will add
Ibme remarks on the prefent fiate of theie
places. Adrian, whofe fiiameful vices tar-
iiifiied the fplendor of his greatefi qualities,
having lofi Antinous, his favourite, during
his journey in Egypt, was defirous to raife a
lading monument to his memory, and found-
ed a city in his name, tracing the plan on
level ground, and building it with royal
magnificence. The city was half a league
in circumforence, and contained two principal
flreets, forty feet wide, and interfedting. each
other, in the centre, at right angles. The
lateral fireets were narrower, but equally
draight. The two principal dreets ended

with four gates, fome of which dill remain.

•

(/) Antinoc was built near' the j-uins of Abydus,
where the Egyptians revere the oracle of the God Befa,
one of the moft ancient in Egypt, and famous^fo late as
the Emperor Conftantius. Ammianus Marccllinus (lib.
19.) fays the neighbouring people all confulted it, and
alTeniblcd, at certain periods, to keep feftivals in its
honour, wherefore the Arabs called Antinoe, fituated
near Abydus, the city of the magi.

G 4

There.

4S« LETTERS

There are three arched entrances 9b the mod
beautiful ; that in the centre is forty feet
high* twenty-two wide* and twenty thick;
the two others are lefi. The fronts of this
gate are each ornamented by four pilafters*
in baflb relievo* the capitals of which* of
the acanthus leaf* proje<^ confiderably.
Eight Corinthian columns furrounded this
fine gate* and equalled it in height* one of
which only has efcaped the ravages of time
and man ; the reft are broken or deftroyed*
but their pedeftals remain entire. Befides this
edifice there are heaps of rubbifti feen, in
various parts of the city, remains* of cornices
and entablatures which denote temples or
palaces deftroyed. If we may judge from
the pedeftals* found* at intervals* along the
ftreets* they were lined by a colonnade* that
formed a portico on each fide* where the in-
habitants might walk in the ihade* which
muft have produced a charming efiPedt. Ex-
clufive'of thefe embelliihments* one of the
fquares was ornamented by four grand columns
of the Corinthian order. Three are deftroyed*
except the bafes ; the fourth is perfedl* and
about fifty feet hijgh : the ftiaft is compofed
. of feveral ftones ; on the firft of which is an

ornament

ON EGYPT.

♦57

ornament of oak foliage. On the pedeftal is
a Greek infcription, h^Xi effzctd fmj, which
fhews it was dedicated to Alexander Severus.
The Senate of Alexandria* on which he
bellowed many benefits* after eredling the
famous column 1 fb highly praifcd in a for-
mer letter* railed thele other four* in honour
of him* after his vidlories over the Perfians ;
for the oak foliage* on the pedellal of that
which remains* was a token of vidlory
among the Romans. Thelc* Sir* are the mo-
numents bell preferved among the ruins of
Antinoe* the founder of which did not in-
Icriptions ^nd hlllorians declare, the arches
of the gates, fnj capitals of the columns*
and want of hieroglyphics would Ihew they
were not Egyptian works. They arc ex-
amples of the good talle and elegance the

{nt) It begins thus. To the profperity of Cafut Marcus
Aurelius Severus Alexander^ pietis^ happy — Aurelius being
prefeS of the new Greets of Antinoe^ lA c. This is legible
on two of the pedcfials, but almoft cfFaccd o« the two
others. See Father Sicard, Lettres EdifianteSf who 'gives
the intcription in Greek.

(ff ) ^Neither arch nor column of any of the Grecian
orders can be found among the remains of ancient
Egypt, but Hones, aftoniihingly huge, abounding in
hicroglyphicks.

Romans’

458 LETTERS

Romans learnt from the Greeks, but not of
that majeRy, folidity, and amazing grandeur,
which the people of Rgypt imparted to all
their works, and which no other nation ever
attained. The remains of Antinoe, though
magnificent, are infignificant compared to
the portico of Achmounain, although the
latter is the moll ancfent by fifteen hundred
years.

Near this city are the remains of the an-
cient Abydus, where was the oracle of the god
Befa, in which place a dervife convent,
named Sheik Abada, now flands. Antinoe
was peopled by chriflians, {oward the
clofe of the fourth century. Palladius fays
there were twelve convents of nuns, and as
many of monks ; and, perhaps, the ruin of
this finall city may be attributed to the
prodigious number of people who, living in
its neighbourhood, vowed celibacy. There
are flill many Coptic monafleries, in the en-
virons,, the inhabitants of which are funk
in poverty and ignorance. The fruitful
plains which, according to the geographer of
Nubia, were round Enfina, have dilappeared
with the people, and barren fands have
ufurped their place.

Once

ON EGYPT.

4Sf

Olice more let us embark. Sir, and pro-
ceed up the river. Yonder we behold a con-
tinuation of grottos, in the mountain in the
eaft, formerly inhabited by Anchorets, whole
abftincnce is famous in church hiilory.
Their food was bread and water; though
this audcre and contemplative life is le(s
adonidiing than it might be thought, in a hot
climate where temperance is a law of ne-
cciTity, and meditation an enjoyment. The
Nile, its groves, harvefts, and multitu-
dinous boats, pafiing day and night; may be
feen from thefe cells, and the thing moil
(urprizing :fi they had the reibiution to re-
main continually idle, amidil that perpetual
motion which they inceflantly beheld. Thefe
grottos extend as far as Manfeloiit, which
fmall town, on the weft, ftanding in a fer-
tile oountry, is governed by a Cachef. The
Turks have here feveral mpfqucs, and*a cop-

m

tic convent (lands facing it, which is afeend-
cd by means of a pulley ; the monk£ being
obliged to take this precaution againft the
avarice of the Arabs.

The high fquare dove-cotes of the village
Salem are ieen at a diftance, and, coafting
belide a long ifle the elbowing Nile brings

us

46 » LETTERS

US to Siout ( oj, a large/ populous, well built
town, where there is a lake dug which ferves
to water the grounds. Its gardens abound
in vegetables and fruit trees ; and its iitua-
tion, on an artificial mount, denotes it oc-
cupies the (cite of an ancient city: accordingly,
veftiges of Nicopolis are found, where the
wolf was held to be a facred animal.

Half a league from the river, on the fame
fide, (lands Aboutig, a very pleafant little
place, formerly Aboutis, mentioned by Ste-
phen of Byzantium. The Turks here (lill
cultivate, as in the time of Abulfeda, the
poppy, of which they make opkim, eagerly
fwallowed by the rich to inipire agreeable
reveries ; the common people content them-
felves with taking fmall pills of cut hemp-
leaves, fading, which produce fimilar eifedls.
Aboutig is governed by an Emir. The yoke of
thc(e Arab princes is lefs galling than that of
the Beys i the people enjoy more tranquillity

(o) Pococke wrongly fuppoles Siout and Anteopolis
the fame. Ptolemy places Anteopolis higher, and on
the other fide of the river.— >Strabo j(Hb. zy.) fays Ly-
copolis ftood above the canal which runs into the lake
Tanis. This is an error in copying, it ibould. be read
lake Moeris.

under

O N E G Y P T. 461

undfer them* and are not fb much expoftd
to the ravages of the undifciplined troops of
Cairo. The(e elders often diicover that im-
partial juftice, humanity and affeding bene-
volence* with which the patriarchs governed
their families.

The village Settefa, above Aboutig* has
fucceeded to the fmall town of Apollo ; is at
fome diftance from the river* and partly inha-
bited by Copts. A very hngular accuikdon
was here prefen ted againft Father Sicard.
Two native chrijflians went to the governor*
and told him the foreigner intended to nail
up the banks of the Nile* with magical
nails* and prevent the inundation by his
enchantments. This declaration ftrangely
cmbarrafled the Arab prii^, who would have
arrefted the learned millionary, had not a
janiifary* who travelled with him* bipcome
refponfible for his peribn; and affirmed the
Copts were ilanderers. This incident* Sir*
will give you an idea of the ignorance and
fuperflition of modern Egyptians.

Among the numerous villages* on the
banks of the Nile* is Thema* governed by a
Cacbef; and* oppofite* is a charming and large
iile. Silin* anciently Selinon* Hands, half

concealed*

LETTERS

462

concealed, on the other fide, under th*
mountains. Kau Blkebira is a miierable
place, built on the ruins of Anteopolis, which
city pollefied a magnificent temple, eredted by
the Egyptians, according to Diodorus, in
honour of Antaeus, who was vanquifiied by
Hercules. The portico, only, remains, fup-
ported by huge columns, and covered by
vaft fiones, one of which is thirty feet long,
and five wide. The golden and azure ceiling
has prelerved the brilliancy of its colours, but
this magnificent portico is full of dung ;
for the Turks afiemble their herds there, and
make a liable of it ; lb highly do they value
the grcatell works of antiquity. The vil-
lages Coum Elarab, Mcrhta, and Shah
Toura, extend along the eaftern bank, facing
Zein Eddin. Tatha is governed by a Cachef,
and in part furrounded by an arm of the
Nile. Nothing can be more agreeable than
the neighbouring plains, more verdant, or
wealthy in produdls, for which they are
indebted to the river waters. The city of
Venus, on the ruins of which Tatha is
railed, could not have found a better Icite.
After coailing up the river, befide the ille
of Shandouil, the high minarets of Ach-

mim

O N E G Y P T. 46 j

f

inim are ieen afar off. Achminia fays Abul.
*• feda, is a large city of Upper Egyptf on
** the eaftern bank of the Nile, where is a
temple equal to the moil celebrated of an-
** cient monuments, and built with flones
** amazing for their fize, on which innu*
** merable figures are fculptured. Doulnoun
** (s) was a native of Achmim/' Though
this city has not retained its ancient fplendor
it is flill one of the fined in Upper Egypt,
and governed by an Arab prince. The police
is well regulated: the dreets are wide and
clean ; its qommerce and agriculture Hourifh-
ing. Here are manufactories of cotton
cloths and pottery, which are difperfed
throughout Egypt. This is the fame city as
the Chemmis of Heroddtus (tj, and the
Panopolis fu) of Strabo. It has lod its an-
cient edifices, and much of its extent; fince
the ruins of the templ?IdJ»«rifeda deferibes

now dand north of the city, the Qply re-

\

(s) Doulnoun wrote a treatife called Elmejarebat,
Experiments, a copy of which Ihould be among the ma-
nurcript« in the king’s library at Paris.

ft) Herodotus fays Perfeus was a native of this city,
and that his dcfccndcnts ordained fcftivals to him, here,
(u ) The city of Pan. This deity was adored here.

mains

464 LETTERS

mains of which are Ibme ftones, (b l^ge
the Turks could not move them, which
contain mahy hieroglyphics, an4 one of them
IS iculptured after an extraordinary manner.
Four concentric circles are drawn within a
fquare, and the fun is in the centre one.
The two following, divided into twelve part^
include, one of them, twelve birds, and,
the other, twelve animals, nearly effaced,
which feem to have been the figns of the
zodiac. The fourth has no divihons, but
contains twelve human figures The

four ieafons are at the angles o( the fquare^
befide which is a winged globe. This (lone,
probably, belonged to a temple dedicated to
the Sun, and the hieroglyphics indicated
his paffage through, the figns of the zodiac,
and his annual revolution ; a teflimony
the Egyptians enjoyed agronomical know-
ledge from thi: mofe^Temote antiquity. The
columns of .this temple have been in part
defiroyed, to procure lime and millftones.

(x) Reprefenting, as 1 fuppofe, the twelve gods,
twelve months, and twelve figns of the awdiac. Hero-
dotus, (lib. 2.) fays the Egyptians firft divided the year
into twelve months, and named the twelve gods.

I muff

ON E G Y P 465

I muH: not quit Achmim, Sir, without
mentioning its miraculous ierpent. Above
a century iince, a Turkish pried, named
Seheilk Haridi, who paiTed for a faint, died
here, and had a tomb built over him, with
a cupola, at the foot of the mountain, to
which people came from all parts to pray.
Another pried, profiting by their credulity,
perfuaded them God had commanded the
ipirit of Seheilk Haridi into the body of a
ierpent, many of which, that arc harmlcis,
are found in the Thebais. One of thclc he
had taught •to obey him, and, appearing
with his ierpent, dazzled the vulgar, by
furprizing tricks, and pretended it had power
over all difeaies. , Some happy cures, which
nature or imagination wr^;jght, gave it great
celebrity 5 and the ierpent Haridi would no
longer leave his tomb, except for ppinces
and wealthy peribns. TT^Tfucgeirors of this
pried, following his principles,, had little
trouble to increafe the credit of this advan-
tageous error, and they affirmed, exclufive
of its fil'd virtue, it was immortal. Of this
they pretended to make a public trial ; the
ferpent was cut to pieces, in the Emir’s
prefence, and depofited, two hours, un-
VoL. I. H h dcr

LETTERS

466

der a va(e, where, as they raifed it, the priefts,
no doubt, had the addrefs to fubditute an-
other. This mir.icle was proclainaed, and
the immortal Haridi acquired new renown.
They profit greatly by their deceit; people
come from all parts to pray at the tomb ;
and, if the ferpent appears from under the
flone, and approaches tlie intercedbr, it is a
lign the iick perfon fhall be cured. You may
well fuppofe. Sir, he appears not till an offer-
ing is made worthy of the wealth and quality
of the perfon. In extraordinary cafes, when
the fick cannot be cured unlefs the ferpent be
prefect, a pure virgin mufl go\nd folicit;
and, that they may be certain, a very young
girl is chofen, who is decorated in a tine habit,
and with a garland of flowers. After fhc has
prayed, the ferpent, according to the prieft’s
intenyon, makes circles round the young
fuppliant, and coaics and repofes upon her.
The virgin, accompanied by multitudes of
people, and vafl: acclamations, then carries it
off in triumph, ’Tis not in the power of
reafon to perfuade thefe credulous ignorant
Egyptians they are the dupes of knaves ;
they believe as fincerely in the ferpent Haridi
as in their prophet : the very chriflians no

more

O N E G Y P T. 467

more doubt its virtue than the Turks, but
affirm this ferpent is the demon Afmodeus,
who killed the (even hufbands of the wife of
Tobi&s, and that the angel Raphael, after
having metamorphofed him, brought him
hither, that God might thus deceive infi*
•dels. The lerpent has adted a miraculous
part in the hiftory of man $ he feduced Eve,
and, at the command of Moles devoured
thofe of the Egyptians, made Alexander of
Aboniteichos pafs for a god, and now cures
the fick people of Achmim. This ierpent is
of the fame fpecies with thofe Herodotus de-
feribes, which were lacred among the an-
cient Egyptians, who called them Agatho
Daimoncs, (A^iiGoJ'aJ/uores) Good Genii ; and
they were the types of jpneph, a iymbclicar
deity, fignifying divine goodnefs.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.